Osa Trip report - Feb, 2010
Feb 26th, 2010, 07:28 PM
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Osa Trip report - Feb, 2010
We (2 parents, 2 girls 13 & 10) are back from a wonderful, near-perfect t 10 day trip on the Osa Peninsula. A few years ago we travelled to Arenal, Manuel Antonio and Osa; since we had found Osa to be by far the most beautiful, undeveloped and magical area, we decided to focus our trip there, at Bosque Del Cabo and in Drake Bay.
One thing I didn't really have a sense of beforehand was travel time and costs, so I will include those here. We stayed one night near the San Jose airport at Hotel Orquideas. This is a lovely, relaxing spot, nicely landscaped, with a great breakfast. Luis, the regular driver, is a gem. ($12 to or from the airport, about 15-20 minutes).
We flew to Puerto Jiminez ($100+ per person) and then took a cab ($40, 45 minutes) to BdC. On the way the cab driver took us to the supermarket where we loaded up for the week.
BdC could not have been more wonderful. Despite myself I find that I must join the chorus of groupies on this forum who sing the praises of this lovely, low-key resort and its amazing, lush setting full of more wildlife than we've seen everywhere else in CR put together. Gerly, who is the primary concierge, is truly delightful and made us feel like she cared about nothing in the world so much as addressing whatever concern we had at the moment.
We stayed for 6 nights in the garden in Casa Teca which turned out to be PERFECT for our little family of 4. We loved the 10 minute walk through the jungle and over the hanging bridge, and each trip to and from the cabin brought a wonderful experience of firelies or poison dart frogs or agoutis or a troop of capuchins jumping onto the bridge right in front of us. I'm sure the cabinas overlooking the oceans are lovely, but because we knew we would be oceanfront during the second half of our trip we were happy to be in the garden. For us, it worked really well to have our own kitchen. It was much more economical than having the full meal plan. Also, the 7:00 dinner proved to be too late for my kids who were wiped out by then, and also heavier and more european (i.e. not as much local food) than we would have liked. We had the option to eat in the restaurant any time. We often had lunch there which was always delicious.
Mornings, we hiked the BdC trails, played in a waterfall, rode horses on the beach, swam in tidepools, climbed up and rappelled down a giant strangler fig etceterra. Afternoons we camped out by the small pool and drank smoothies and watched the incredible array of birds and 3 species of monkeys that cavorted by. The whole place is beautiful; the staff extremely kind and helpful; the trails could keep a hiker happy for days; and the wildlife is amazing.
We then got a driver to take us to Drake Bay ($180, 2 1/2 + hours). We were planning to stay at Cabinas Las Caletas, which for us proved to be a disappoinment. Granted, BdC is a tough act to follow, and perhaps anywhere else would have been a letdown. But none of us felt very comfortable there. Despite a terrific location above the beach, the duplex we stayed in felt somehow cramped and stuffy, with no area to "hang out" in (i.e. play a game of cards together etc), little biting ants, uncomfortable bedding, no fans, a paper-thin wall between us and the next unit. People love this place, it has gotten some great reviews, and it is especially popular with German-speaking tourists because one of the owners and also their resident guide are German speaking. But we felt that it was really not worth the money. The owner was, however, kind enough to let us out of our 4 day reservation, so after 2 days we moved 10 minutes up the coast to the Drake Bay Wilderness Resort.
DBWR is lovely. It occupies an amazing piece of real estate, jutting out into the Bay with a 180 degree ocean view. The grounds are nicely landscaped, a bit manicured for my taste, with a nice bar area and and a salt-water pool. Meals were delicious and convivial. The rooms were basic but comfortable, with comfy beds and ceiling fans and a little sitting area outside of each one, many with ocean views. The guides were wonderful. We especially adored Tico, a kind and knowledgeable man who took us on a wonderful snorkelling adventure to Cano Island one day, and on a tour through the mangroves the next (this last was way too many hours in a boat for my taste, however.) Another day we did the ziplines at Corcovado Canopy Tours. The ride, and the guides, were terrific.
Both to save some money and to see the country, we decided to drive back to San Jose ($225). First we took a fun boatride to Sierpe (45 minutes, $15 per person) where we were picked up by a driver. The new highway has reduced this drive; it was about 5 hours with a brief lunch stop.
With the exception of the first 2 nights in Drake Bay, we all were delighted with every aspect of this fantasy-come-true vacation. Thanks to all of you Fodorites who helped point the way!
Annie
One thing I didn't really have a sense of beforehand was travel time and costs, so I will include those here. We stayed one night near the San Jose airport at Hotel Orquideas. This is a lovely, relaxing spot, nicely landscaped, with a great breakfast. Luis, the regular driver, is a gem. ($12 to or from the airport, about 15-20 minutes).
We flew to Puerto Jiminez ($100+ per person) and then took a cab ($40, 45 minutes) to BdC. On the way the cab driver took us to the supermarket where we loaded up for the week.
BdC could not have been more wonderful. Despite myself I find that I must join the chorus of groupies on this forum who sing the praises of this lovely, low-key resort and its amazing, lush setting full of more wildlife than we've seen everywhere else in CR put together. Gerly, who is the primary concierge, is truly delightful and made us feel like she cared about nothing in the world so much as addressing whatever concern we had at the moment.
We stayed for 6 nights in the garden in Casa Teca which turned out to be PERFECT for our little family of 4. We loved the 10 minute walk through the jungle and over the hanging bridge, and each trip to and from the cabin brought a wonderful experience of firelies or poison dart frogs or agoutis or a troop of capuchins jumping onto the bridge right in front of us. I'm sure the cabinas overlooking the oceans are lovely, but because we knew we would be oceanfront during the second half of our trip we were happy to be in the garden. For us, it worked really well to have our own kitchen. It was much more economical than having the full meal plan. Also, the 7:00 dinner proved to be too late for my kids who were wiped out by then, and also heavier and more european (i.e. not as much local food) than we would have liked. We had the option to eat in the restaurant any time. We often had lunch there which was always delicious.
Mornings, we hiked the BdC trails, played in a waterfall, rode horses on the beach, swam in tidepools, climbed up and rappelled down a giant strangler fig etceterra. Afternoons we camped out by the small pool and drank smoothies and watched the incredible array of birds and 3 species of monkeys that cavorted by. The whole place is beautiful; the staff extremely kind and helpful; the trails could keep a hiker happy for days; and the wildlife is amazing.
We then got a driver to take us to Drake Bay ($180, 2 1/2 + hours). We were planning to stay at Cabinas Las Caletas, which for us proved to be a disappoinment. Granted, BdC is a tough act to follow, and perhaps anywhere else would have been a letdown. But none of us felt very comfortable there. Despite a terrific location above the beach, the duplex we stayed in felt somehow cramped and stuffy, with no area to "hang out" in (i.e. play a game of cards together etc), little biting ants, uncomfortable bedding, no fans, a paper-thin wall between us and the next unit. People love this place, it has gotten some great reviews, and it is especially popular with German-speaking tourists because one of the owners and also their resident guide are German speaking. But we felt that it was really not worth the money. The owner was, however, kind enough to let us out of our 4 day reservation, so after 2 days we moved 10 minutes up the coast to the Drake Bay Wilderness Resort.
DBWR is lovely. It occupies an amazing piece of real estate, jutting out into the Bay with a 180 degree ocean view. The grounds are nicely landscaped, a bit manicured for my taste, with a nice bar area and and a salt-water pool. Meals were delicious and convivial. The rooms were basic but comfortable, with comfy beds and ceiling fans and a little sitting area outside of each one, many with ocean views. The guides were wonderful. We especially adored Tico, a kind and knowledgeable man who took us on a wonderful snorkelling adventure to Cano Island one day, and on a tour through the mangroves the next (this last was way too many hours in a boat for my taste, however.) Another day we did the ziplines at Corcovado Canopy Tours. The ride, and the guides, were terrific.
Both to save some money and to see the country, we decided to drive back to San Jose ($225). First we took a fun boatride to Sierpe (45 minutes, $15 per person) where we were picked up by a driver. The new highway has reduced this drive; it was about 5 hours with a brief lunch stop.
With the exception of the first 2 nights in Drake Bay, we all were delighted with every aspect of this fantasy-come-true vacation. Thanks to all of you Fodorites who helped point the way!
Annie
Feb 26th, 2010, 08:33 PM
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Great report annie, it sound like you had a great time and improvised to get yourself into accommodations that you found comfortable. Thanks for the details, this was very helpful.
I thought BDC had to pick people up ($30 pp?) and a land rover was required to get to their property -- this would cost us $120. What kind of cab did you take? We have a driver (at this point) to take us to Puerto Jimenez but I didn't think his van would get us there and presumed we'd pay BDC to pick us up.
I thought BDC had to pick people up ($30 pp?) and a land rover was required to get to their property -- this would cost us $120. What kind of cab did you take? We have a driver (at this point) to take us to Puerto Jimenez but I didn't think his van would get us there and presumed we'd pay BDC to pick us up.
Feb 27th, 2010, 05:55 AM
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<<I find that I must join the chorus of groupies on this forum who sing the praises of this lovely, low-key resort >>
Welcome to the group(ies)!
Glad you had a great time at Bosque, it really is a wonderful place. Sounds you had a quite full time there and that the food situation worked out well, and you know I'm no kid but I've had 1 or 2 times where I barely made it awake thru dinner as well.
Sorry about Las Caletas, that's a bummer. I too wonder sometimes if my disappointments with a place is just that I'm comparing it to Bosque or not. But it's great that you took the situation into your own hands and switched to a place that you were happier at. It's a pretty drive from there up to SJ isn't it?
fishee I'll butt in about the pick-up/drop-off to Bosque. Yes, I do believe the price is per person, round trip. I've seen anything from Land Rovers to little tiny low cars on the Carate road, so no, a Land Rover is not required. I drove to Bosque in little tiny Jimny and made it. I also took, last Nov., a regular taxi to El Remanso which is next door to Bosque, the price was $35. So a taxi may work a little better for you, it may be a little more due to the # of persons, not sure, but if it's less than $60 (one way) you can save a little.
Welcome to the group(ies)!
Glad you had a great time at Bosque, it really is a wonderful place. Sounds you had a quite full time there and that the food situation worked out well, and you know I'm no kid but I've had 1 or 2 times where I barely made it awake thru dinner as well. Sorry about Las Caletas, that's a bummer. I too wonder sometimes if my disappointments with a place is just that I'm comparing it to Bosque or not. But it's great that you took the situation into your own hands and switched to a place that you were happier at. It's a pretty drive from there up to SJ isn't it?
fishee I'll butt in about the pick-up/drop-off to Bosque. Yes, I do believe the price is per person, round trip. I've seen anything from Land Rovers to little tiny low cars on the Carate road, so no, a Land Rover is not required. I drove to Bosque in little tiny Jimny and made it. I also took, last Nov., a regular taxi to El Remanso which is next door to Bosque, the price was $35. So a taxi may work a little better for you, it may be a little more due to the # of persons, not sure, but if it's less than $60 (one way) you can save a little.
Feb 27th, 2010, 05:58 AM
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I just sent our deposit to BdC so I am so excited to see a trip report. Your cost for your flight to the Osa is much better than what we are paying. We are paying over $200pp. Thank goodness we are travelling on FF to get to Costa Rica.
Thanks for writing a report. I wish everyone would come back to the boards and write reports. I love reading them.
Thanks for writing a report. I wish everyone would come back to the boards and write reports. I love reading them.
Feb 27th, 2010, 08:26 AM
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It would be great if Wilson could drive us straight to BDC -- I'll ask Elsy although I'm sure of she's sick of my questions.
Annie, in addition to your restuarants, what were the la carte prices of the few meals you had at BDC?
Annie, in addition to your restuarants, what were the la carte prices of the few meals you had at BDC?
Feb 27th, 2010, 07:16 PM
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Hi!
Yes- you can take a cab as long as it has 4 wheel drive and the price was $40 total as opposed to $15 for each of us (one way).
The a la carte meals for adults were 15 for breakfast and lunch, 30 for dinner - a few bucks less for the kids. For us, worth it for lunch, not for dinner. There is nowhere else to eat (no other restaurants) but we made do with our little kitchen plus BdC's nightly appetizers and smoothies
Casa Teca was around somewhere in the mid-200s per night - pretty good for 4 of us! It is airy and nice. Not too hot for sleeping but pretty hot midday (so we lived at the pool). You have to be cool with bugs!
I am jealous of all of you who are on your way!
Yes- you can take a cab as long as it has 4 wheel drive and the price was $40 total as opposed to $15 for each of us (one way).
The a la carte meals for adults were 15 for breakfast and lunch, 30 for dinner - a few bucks less for the kids. For us, worth it for lunch, not for dinner. There is nowhere else to eat (no other restaurants) but we made do with our little kitchen plus BdC's nightly appetizers and smoothies
Casa Teca was around somewhere in the mid-200s per night - pretty good for 4 of us! It is airy and nice. Not too hot for sleeping but pretty hot midday (so we lived at the pool). You have to be cool with bugs!I am jealous of all of you who are on your way!
Feb 28th, 2010, 09:15 AM
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Thx annie -- considering Casa Blanca. We had hoped that snacks would take care of kids mid-afternoon but now I'm wondering if they'll even be awake (and not cranky) at 7 pm for dinner.
How well-stocked was PJ grocery store? Esp with fresh fruit?
How well-stocked was PJ grocery store? Esp with fresh fruit?
Feb 28th, 2010, 10:33 AM
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The grocery stores have everything you will need. We favored the BK grocery. They had lots of fresh fruit and veggies; the most delicious fruits are the ones grown locally like pineapple, papaya, bananas and mango. There are mango trees on the property at Bosque ( you will see the monkeys dining there) and you will be able to gather some nice ripe ones as they just fall to the ground. BCD would be a good spot to bring out a can of cashews or other snacks that you have tucked in your luggage as these items are not as available in PJ.
An excellent place for lunch is Cafe de la Onda. Air conditoned and cheerful, it is on the street that runs parallel inland from the main street in PJ. They have delicious bagels, sandwiches, cookies and desserts,as well as real lattes. My daughter was hooked on the mixed papaya fruit juice soda. If you think the kids might not make it till dinner, perhaps you could get Wilson to drive you to the cafe and get a take-away lunch for the kids to eat in the evening, in case they don't want go to the dining room that night. When you have the services of Wilson, you should get a little tour of the town. PJ is more spread out than I envisioned and it's difficult to walk around in that heat - or for me it was.
There are a couple of streams to cross on the road to BDC; - we used a taxi from PJ to take us to Bosque to allow for more flexibility in the day we arrived as we had spent a few days in PJ before going to Bosque. Didn't want a set pick up time. If Wilson has a four WD, you would be fine taking his vehicle ...keep your eyes peeled. We saw an anteater on the road!
An excellent place for lunch is Cafe de la Onda. Air conditoned and cheerful, it is on the street that runs parallel inland from the main street in PJ. They have delicious bagels, sandwiches, cookies and desserts,as well as real lattes. My daughter was hooked on the mixed papaya fruit juice soda. If you think the kids might not make it till dinner, perhaps you could get Wilson to drive you to the cafe and get a take-away lunch for the kids to eat in the evening, in case they don't want go to the dining room that night. When you have the services of Wilson, you should get a little tour of the town. PJ is more spread out than I envisioned and it's difficult to walk around in that heat - or for me it was.
There are a couple of streams to cross on the road to BDC; - we used a taxi from PJ to take us to Bosque to allow for more flexibility in the day we arrived as we had spent a few days in PJ before going to Bosque. Didn't want a set pick up time. If Wilson has a four WD, you would be fine taking his vehicle ...keep your eyes peeled. We saw an anteater on the road!
Mar 6th, 2010, 04:08 PM
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Welcome home, annie! It was fun to meet you and your adorable girls! I feel bad that Las Caletas didn't work out for your family, but I can see why. A few years ago my husband and I stayed in "the honeymoon cabin" on the hill, which was very private, if rustic. We had a big fan in the bedroom area, and a large porch. We weren't altogether crazy about our hosts, but the other guests were great fun, and we did tours, chatted and ate our meals together. I'm not sure how I would have felt bringing children and staying in a duplex. I too have experienced bad matches in accommodations; always a disappointment. Welcome to the Bosque fan club, lol!
Mar 8th, 2010, 05:10 PM
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Another tidbit re: groceries. The amazingly lovely concierge at BdC also told me that if we ran out of something they could have someone get it in town for us. And the smoothies were cheap so we definitely got our daily fresh fruit
Annie
Annie
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