tangwah

Hi. Enjoying great weather in OC this week. But I am leaving this Sunday, a week earlier than planned after spending 4 days here. 6 days is enough for me. Food has been great, no tummy problems despite eating at roadside stalls and foodstalls in the market. The negro mole at El Naranjo is to die for.
Casa Arnel is a nice place, but if you are a light sleeper, you will be sleep deprived cos it it is noisy day and night.
The villages have been a disappointment for me, but Monte Alban was much more than expected. Mitla was disappointing though. Ocotlan which was described as a wonderful town in my fodors was a waste of time IMO.

marktynernyc

Tangwah -
Hello from NYC where it's 19F. El Naranjo is fantastic - Illiana is a wonderful chef. Two more weeks and I'll be in Huatulco with a side trip to Morelia. Great to hear about eating at food stalls - I'm going to be a bit more adventerous this trip.

SusanInToronto

I'm sorry to hear that the villages were disappointing. I spent a day taking taxis and buses to 2 or 3 villages and we totally enjoyed it. It's been several years since I was in Oaxaca and I'd love to go back.

tangwah

Iliana at El Naranjo recognised me when i return the second time and the third as well. but it's back to the foodstalls today. bought some moles and chocolate that were nicely packed at the abastos market this morning.
The other guests at CasA Arnel enjoyed Ocotlan, it what one expects I guess. I have been to villages in Ecuador and Peru 5 years ago and ünfairly was expecting similar charming rusticity of the villages around Oaxaca.

Dude

Ocotlan would not be my number one choice except for the Rudulfo Morales murals in City hall and a visit to his home. If you end up staying longer- if you head up past Teotitlan de Valle to Benito Juarez or up to Ixtlan or Guelatao, or to the villages out past Hierve del Agua above Mitla it might be more what you had in mind. As far as a market day visit I think Tlacolula on Sunday is the best. Also market day in Oaxaca City, Saturday, at the Abastos market by the 2nd class bus terminal is worth the trip. Sorry you did not have the experience as anticipated. The Oaxaca Valley is certainly a lot different than it was 10 years ago.

tangwah

thanks dude for your suggestions for future reference. I enjoyed my 5 days in Oaxaca nonetheless, food is really great and the local markets are lots of fun to visit. I enjoyed the abastos market today, Saturday. i can imagine how much oaxaca has changed. i was in otavalo ecuador 6 years ago, returned 2 years ago and it wasn't as attractive, more built up with ugly flat roofed concrete buildings bearing advertisements etc. The weekly Otavalo market as well was vastly different. i was in Argentina 2 years ago too and enjoyed the villages between Salta and Jujuy, more adobe buildings wrought iron lampposts, local Indians wearing traditional costumes (not for tourists) etc, it reminded me of the village in the movie The Mexican. I must find more places that haven't been industrialised/modernised.

Dude

Just for your info. the village in the Mexican is Real de Catorce. It is a couple hours north of Zacatecas. To get there you have to go to Mathehuala. Then bus for two hours to over 10,000 feet. You acesss Real through a tunnel as in the movie. It is a ghost town that was abandoned when the silver mines played out. When I went there in Nov. of 2003 I was the only tourist in town. Apparently it is only crowded on religious holidays as miracles are ascribed to the local church. There are not a lot of indigenous- a few huicholes coming through, but it is an interesting place.

quimbymoy

hi, i have read with interest everyone's comments, since i am hoping to travel to oaxaca soon. is it easy to get around to the markets and sites by bus or taxi or should i renta a car?
thanks in advance!

Dude

If you speak Spanish I think the buses and colectivo taxis are a great way to get around. For destinations south walk to the periferico and flag down a bus to your destination, i.e. Teotilan de Valle or to Mitla which will drop you off at any town on route. For Ocotlan and Zachilla walk down CM Bustamante from the Zocalo to the bus stations that serve those destinations. One is on Bustamente the other on the other side of the wall on the adjacent street. This can all be done at the second class bus station too, but is more time consuming. Collectivo taxis carry as many people as can fit to whatever destnation is written on the door, i.e. Arrazola. They have two stands, which depends on your destination. One is in the Abastos market. The other on the east side of the 2nd class bus terminal. You can also rent a taxi on a hourly basis if you want to do that. Personally I would rather take the buses than rent a car as you don't have to deal with security issues leaving the car in various places and with the occasional military checkpoint. Further, I find taking the buses interesting anyway. It did take a few trips to really get the bus sytem figured out, likewise, speaking Spanish is invauable. I continue to be amazed that the local transporation system will get you to anywhere in the Oaxaca valley from anywhere if you can figure out where to meet the various buses, colectivos, pickups that transport people, whatever.

tangwah

I agree with dude, the public transportation is cheap and convenient. Traffice is horrendous in Oaxaca City. I barely know any spanish but got around on public buses within the city(3.50 pesos)and colectivos and public buses to the outlaying towns. The oaxacans are very helpful. They actually squeeze 2 adults in the front passenger seat in a colectivo (Nissan Tsuru), believe it or not. I paid double to have the seat to myself to Mitla which was still affordable at 30 pesos one way. The direct bus to Monte Alban from Hotel Angel Riviera (I think) cost 24 or 28 pesos return, 8 pesos more if you return via a later bus (they allow 2 hours in MOnte Alban).

quimbymoy

thanks due & tangwah for your advice. would 2 hours be enough time to see mitla and monte alban (2 hours each place)?
thanks again.

Dude

Monte Alban- In my mind two hours is a little short if you really want to look at the area. I went with some people going for the first time last summer and they wanted a little more time. If you are really interested there is a lot more to Monte Alban than you realize or tours offer. For instance when you walk up the trail to the Monte Alban complex the majority of it is on your left. If you climb up the hill on your right there are some trails and, if it is open, a tomb with a mural inside along with partially excavated ruins. My point is you can take a lot of time if you are interested in archaeology. For Mitla itself, two hours in plenty. If you want to walk through the town and look at some smaller ruins in town and the town itself add some time. Also I would suggest going to Yagul on the way back from Mitla. It is interesting and has a fabulous view of the Oaxaca valley. Finaly, just for info. I like to go to Mitla on Sundays. If you are ambitious you can bus to Tlatcolula for market day, then bus on to Mitla to check it out, then decide if you want to go to Yagul or Teotilan de Valle. This will take you maybe 8 hours, but you can really experience a lot.

quimbymoy

dude, is there stuff going on in mitla on sundays or is it just quieter? and if we decided to taxi out to mitla or monte alban and wanted the flexibility to stay as long as we wanted, are taxis readily available to catch back to oaxaca? thanks again.

Dude

Mitla- Its not a market day, but the stores are open and there is also a market of sorts for various local handicrafts on the right side of church as you approach the ruins. Usually there are taxis or colectivos parked by the ruins. If not, its about a mile walk back through town to the bus stop. You can also get a taxi there. Also if you end up walking and see a taxi you can flag it down. Same at Monte Alban, there are usually taxis waiting around. If not you can find a bus. For Monte Alban, however I would suggest taking the bus from Hotel Meson Riviera that Tangwah suggests. You can just pay extra to take one of their later buses.

quimbymoy

thanks again for the advice and i'm sure i will come up with more questions soon!