nypuck

What makes a good swimming beach is different for each person. I wonder if visitors to this Costa Rica forum might do a great favor for all and add their opinions about the Pacific Coast playas as they relate to swimming. If you have had first hand experience (no hearsay or conjecture, please) at any of the Pacific playas mentioned in Fodor's could you please name them and characterize them as one of the following: 1) calm, 2) good wave action but still safe, 3) strong waves and swimmer beware, 4) dangerous, 5) walking only. Additional info as it relates to swimming and sunning should help, too. It might be great input in helping people decide which beach is for them. Looking forward to the results....

SiteC_er

The private beach at Buena Vista Villas / Tulemar is very safe and has excellent waves (at least for the week we were there in early June). Since CR is only 9 degrees north of the equator, you need to be careful of the sun anywhere in Costa Rica.

lisa_ea

We were there the last week of May, I completelly agree. (Buena Vista Villas & Casas at Tulemar).

qwovadis

manuealantoniopark.com

Beach #3 best for me swim/snorkel

Also lazing with sloths...

qwovadis

manuelantoniopark.com

sorry for typo

beach #3 at MA would be rated

1-2 usually

except in bad weather.

sumi

We were in Santa Teresa (Mal Pais) in late February and I'd rate it 2+. My 9 year-old spent an entire day boogie-boarding and he did seem awfully small compared to the waves but even though he only weighs 65lb, he didn't have any problems and there wasn't much of an undertow. The beach itself was beautiful and uncrowded.

shillmac

Playa Hermosa (there are 2, I'm speaking of the northernmost one), inside a horseshoe bay, is calm, good for swimming, but not much wave action, of course.

Playa Panama, near Hermosa, the same, and is popular with Tico families. It isn't in a bay, but is calm, good for swimming, light wave action.

Playa Flamingo, excellent wave action, good for swimming, boogie boarding. I know of one rock, underwater, to the right of center (center being entrance down 3 steps from the road), that has caused a fatality, head injury. I would consider that a bit of a freak accident.

Playa Grande, signs posted--dangerous current. This is a surfing beach, we like to wade and gather shells. Giant leatherback turtle nesting grounds from Dec.-Mar.

Playa Ventana, south of Dominical, is a fun swimming beach with moderate wave action. Named Ventana (window in espanol) because of a rock formation that you can walk through.

Someone should comment on Playas Samara and Carillo as they are nice beaches, but I can't remember specifically how big the waves were.

There are several unsafe (for swimming) beaches around Jaco, north of Manuel Antonio. And south of there, toward Manuel Antonio, as well. ALWAYS CHECK WITH THE LOCALS!

bellaboo

Playa Biesanz in MA is very calm & safe for swimming, basically 0 wave action.

Public Beach in MA(Beach # 1)does have wave action & can have dangerous rips, be very careful.

Beach #2(first beach once entering park)is calmer...but does have some wave action, good body surfing, but if waves are larger caution is needed.

Beach #3(Playa Manuel Antonio)is a great swimming beach, we've spent literally hours swimming there on our 4 trips. I've yet to see wave action...

nypuck

So far fantastic info. Yes, I do hope some people weigh in on Samara and Carillo and Nosara, too, as well as Dominical. (But don't stop there if you want to contribute.) I was recently in Manuel Antonio and loved the waves on Playa Espadilla along the main drag before the Park entrance. Noting the forceful tidal action close that Park entrance, I knew enough to stay away from there. When the tide went out it was more than a rip current, it was a river. But further away, mid-beach, it seemed quite safe. The reason why I posted The Survey was because I'd like a return visit to CR's beaches and don't want to just repeat myself. Thanks to everyone who has posted so far.

Suzie2

Playa Platanares near Puerto Jimenez would be a 2-3 depending. I had to be pulled out by someone one time when there was an unusually strong tide and the waves got really strong and high. Mostly it is during the tidal changes that it can be strong. Otherwise a lot of fun and safe.

Carate, can have strong rips. 3 would be my rating there. Always has waves, caution is recommended but can still be fun for body surfing and boogie boarding if good judgment is used on current conditions.

During low tide the beach in Uvita was very calm. 1 Fun to walk on the whale tail. Haven't seen it during the higher tides.

Flamingo is definitely a 2.

nypuck

If anyone has been to Playas Nosara or Tamarindo and has knowledge of the beaches there, I'd love to hear.

Also, Playa Esterillos, south of Jacó, is rarely mentioned.
Anybody been there?

snorkelluvn

Third beach at Manuel Antonio has a lovely cove with a blow-hole on land, and great monkey action in the trees.

Montezuma is gorgeous but some dangerous waves. However, just past the Ylang Ylang resort is a spot where a gently tumbling river comes down and empties into a lovely pool that is wonderful for relaxing in, and the swirling waters along the river are like a natural whirlpool tub, plus exploring the rocks with monkeys above is a unique and fun Costa Rica experience. A walk further down that beach would bring you to a rare waterfall that drops directly into the ocean.

Also, the trip to Tortuga Island (we booked it in Montezuma, quite reasonable and included a BBQ beach lunch) takes you to a fabulous, fabulous beach with stunning offshore island scenery and even some snorkeling. Seeing the pristine CR shoreline from the water shouldn't be missed!

nypuck

In regard to my earlier question about Playa Esterillos Este south of Jacó, a hotel manager on that beach got back to me directly: "Our beach is not a “swimming beach”. We have very strong rip currents and medium to heavy surf on our beach, which are prevalent along all of the Central Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. Our beach is a 'play in the waves close to shore beach' and definitely a surfing beach... It is a great beach for surfing."

So I thought I would pass it along.

shillmac

I started to mention it earlier, but was afraid I was mistaken. And I may still be--but I THINK that was the beach where, 2-3 years ago, several members of a high school Spanish class (and their sponsor) from Kansas drowned when several of them got in trouble with the current and others tried to save them. It was horrible, and this is not an uncommon story in CR--many, many beaches have strong currents. It always pays check into that very carefully.

jwell

Hello all - I recently returned from CR and while I'm still compiling my trip report, I felt it was necessary to post about my swimming experience ASAP. I consider myself to be an average to strong swimmer. I am used to swimming in the ocean off the beaches on the East coast of North America.
Thanks to many CR regulars who frequent this site and spend time posting advice to others, I was well aware of the dangerous currents and conditions at some beaches in CR. We stayed at the Tulemar grounds from 6/18 through 6/24, splitting our time between the bungalows and Buena Vista villas, which all share the same private beach. On our first day, late in the afternoon, I swam out from the Tulemar beach with a boogie board. I'll admit, I was pretty far out beyond the breakers -probably about 20-30 feet past the typical depth New Jersey lifeguards allow swimmers to go. The ocean was beautiful, calm and I was floating on the board, riding mild swells. My husband walked up the beach to get a board to join me and my children (ages 17 and 11) left the water and were laying out on the on the beach. I later found out that they felt the breakers were getting very strong and decided to get out. Suddenly, as I was floating and facing the beach, a wave broke over top of me from behind and pulled me down deeper than I have ever been. It was terrifying, as I could not see light when I opened my eyes. I tried to stay calm and still, hoping that my body would begin to float back to the top, which it did. As I broke the surface, I took a huge breath of air, just as another large wave broke over top of me. This happened a total of three times and I knew I was in serious trouble. I could not catch my breath and I had swallowed a large amount of water. When I surfaced, I realized I was farther out than before. I was able to scream for help and two men started out from the beach but my husband was able to get to me first. When he pulled me into knee-deep water, the breakers were so strong that they knocked me repeatedly off my feet.
After this incident, I spoke to many locals about the beaches and safety. Approximately 200 people drown each year in CR. The general information I gathered is that the currents and change of tide in CR are much different and stronger than what I have experienced on the East coast. The tide was going out when I ventured out on the boogie board. I can't say I was caught in a riptide, because I made sure to watch for them and I know what they look like. I think it may have been an undertow but I am not sure. All I know is that I have never, ever been pulled that far under and after being pummled three times in a row, I can honestly say that I would have drowned had I gone under again. No matter how much you prepare, when you are in that situation, you begin to panic and after taking in water and being out of breath, I had no strength left in me.
My reason for posting this is not to scare anyone away from CR or Tulemar's private beach. The beach is beautiful and we enjoyed our time there - can't wait to go back. I do know that there are some "off-limit" beaches in CR but generally speaking, you need to be aware that swimming off ANY beach in CR will most likely be a completely different experience than you are used to. Even on the "safe" beaches, you must always respect the power of the water and beware of the change of tide and the fact that many beaches do not have lifeguards. Again, I must emphasize that we did go to the Tulemar private beach days after my incident and we had no problems. This is not a Tulemar beach problem or complaint - this is advice from someone who wants to prevent an accident from happening.
We also went to the public beach in Manuel Antonio and my family remarked that the water was stronger than they were used to. There were many people in the water at the public beach and although I did see some men walking the beach with floatation devices and whistles, they were not constantly watching the water. I did not see any lifeguards stationed on stands (even though I did see several vacant stands along the beach).
I can offer you this advice regarding beaches in Costa Rica (or anywhere, for that matter):
1) Do not swim alone - EVER. I think it is best to be with a group, always letting more than one person know that you'll be in the water. For families with kids (even teenagers), I think it's a good idea for parents to take turns being in the water with the kids, while one stays on the beach and watches. Do not ever go into the water if you are hiking and come across an isolated beach (the locals tell me many honeymooners do this - happy for privacy but not realizing that the beach may be vacant because swimming is extremely dangerous there). Ask around before you plan an excursion to a beach.
2) If you are on a "private" beach at a hotel, be aware of your surroundings and if there are floatation devices available. Try to swim in a spot with other people. Make sure you know how to call for help if you need to (many hotels with private beaches have house phones or there may be a phone at a beach bar, etc.) Tulemar has signs posted that swimming is at your own risk. There is a great guy (David) who works at the beach and supplies kayaks, boogie boards, etc. however, he is not a designated lifeguard. It seemed that David and the bartender were done their shift in the afternoon, so several times, my family was all alone on the beach (which was very relaxing) but obviously could be dangerous at any beach.
3) Do not rely solely on reports from others or travel books, websites, that report "safe" and "unsafe" beaches for swimming. No matter where you go, exercise caution. Tulemar is considered to be safe for swimming and many people have posted wonderful reviews about the private beach and swimming. My incident was a result of a changing tide, possibly combined with an undertow or maybe even a riptide. Several days after my incident, there was a "red tide"...maybe strong currents come along with that - I don't know. These are natural forces and can occur anywhere - on any beach.
I hope I do not deter anyone from enjoy the beaches of CR or visiting Tulemar, as we had a lovely time there. I simply offer my opinion and experience so you may weigh in on it - I know the opinion posted here helped me plan many aspects of my trip and it was one of the best vacations I have ever taken. Have fun and be safe! Jenn

cmerrell

Thanks for your cautionary tale, jwell. People do need to be mindful of potential danger in the water, and not get lulled into a false sense of security. I'm sure you very panicked for a few minutes! I'm glad you had help nearby and that it didn't sour your trip in any way.

raquel_z

Shillmac,

The beach you are thinking of with the student/teacher tragedy was Playa Palo Seco near Parrita Its a bit further south than Esterillos

Pura Vida,
raquel

Tingo

You may want to check the information on the Blue Flag (Bandera Azul)program. Beaches that meet certain cleanliness standards set by the Costa Rican Tourism Institute (government agency) are awarded the Blue Flag. In 2007 59 beaches kept the Blue Flag and 3 lost it - Tamarindo, Ocotal and Manzanillo. More information is in the Wikipedia entry for Costa Rica.

littlehouse

bookmarking

Continental_Drifter

We returned from our two week trip in CR in May. We spent the last ten days of our trip staying in Samara and traveled to a new beach each day from there south, all the way down to Playa Caletas.

Suffice it to say that, depending on the day, the surf changed on nearly every beach.

Carrillo is beautiful and looks like a postcard with it's palms and white sand beach. It's a horseshoe shaped beach with a great break on the south end of the beach and wading pools and water clear enough to snorkel on the north end of the beach. It's well protected on each side by mountainous cliffs, but it still gets a fair bit of constant breeze. Great shells, but watch for glass (not sea glass!) on the beach. We wound up spending the entire day there, when we only meant to go for a few hours. Keep in mind that on weekends, it is completely inundated with locals and they even have vendors with very high-end food carts parked just off the beach. If you must go on the weekend, get there early. We were there on a weekday and had the beach nearly to ourselves.

Samara is pretty also, if you don't mind sharing the beach with other people. In Samara, the surf was consistent with a decent break in several spots and we did not encounter the rip tides. I grew up on the Outer Banks and had done my homework before going to CR. I expected to find rips out there, but luckily, we didn't encounter any.

My 14 year old son took a 2 hour lesson at Jesse's surf shop in Samara for $40, which included 8 more hours of surf time over the week on the board of his choice. He's surfed many times before, but Jesse, his wife and staff were fantastic! They were just great and welcomed us daily.

The area around Jesse's seemed a bit dodgy, but we found it to be safe and had no problem leaving our car parked near his shop over several different days.

Samara is rustic, but does have a several good restaurants and beach bars. We loved it!

For variety, we did like Playa Coyote, but be aware that it is a very long bumpy ride to get there.

Just past Playa Coyote is Playa Caletas, which is a black sand beach. This is remote, so do not expect to see a soda on the corner and there are not any nearby facilities unless you go back to Coyote, where there are a few restauraunts.

Caletas was the only place we ever had an attempt at breaking into our car. Two guys on ATVs in PLAIN SIGHT road up onto the dune near our car. One got out, walked over to the SUV and tried the back door handle. It was locked, and even if it had not been, there was NOTHING in the car. They turned around, looked straight at me, got on their ATVs and headed on down the beach.

Nonetheless, Caletas was our favorite beach for the sea life we found in the rock pools. Of all beaches, anywhere, we have never seen such beautiful multicolored stones in rock pools like this and found as much sea life in abundance. Both olive ridley and eastern pacific leatherback turtles are known to nest here. Other than the opportunists, it's a peaceful place.

iPura Vida!