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We're alive! Costa RicaTrip Report: June 2005: Monkeys, insects, and rain...(Manuel Antonio, Arenal, Monteverde, San Pablo ) Ask me anything!

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We're alive! Costa RicaTrip Report: June 2005: Monkeys, insects, and rain...(Manuel Antonio, Arenal, Monteverde, San Pablo ) Ask me anything!

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Old Jul 1st, 2005, 10:46 PM
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Melissa,

We have luxury suites at the LI. But, they told us that they could not promise it would be the room with the lava shower. Did you by any chance see the other room type? How did you contact Elaine directly? What were some of your favorite eating spots in MA/Arenal?



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Old Jul 1st, 2005, 10:54 PM
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HOTEL VILLA BONITA, Alajuela:

We spent 1 night at Hotel Villa Bonita, Alajuela. This is a real money-saver and only 5 minutes from the airport. Yet our room was quiet at night for sleeping. www.hotelvillabonita.com

Double rooms are $47 and single rooms are $37, and that includes taxes and breakfast, green season prices.

Humberto and Carmen were great about answering all my e-mails, and that made me feel very comfortable about our first night's lodging in Costa Rica!

Our rooms were clean and basic, with hot water in the private bathrooms. A good deal for the money. Ceiling fans in the rooms. No TV in the rooms but there is one in the public room.

The Hotel Villa Bonita is a house that has been remodelled to include 5 rooms with private bathrooms. The house has a lovely small outdoor garden area, and a small indoor garden area. There are nice touches, such as a little bench and candles on the indoor patio; a rocking chair on the back porch by the outdoor garden.

Breakfast was a nice home-cooked Costa Rican breakfast. Eggs cooked to order for us, toast, fresh fruit, plus Gallo Pinto, a typical beans-and-rice Costa Rican dish. But this was more flavorful than the Gallo Pinto we had at other places throughout the trip.

Breakfast was served indoors overlooking the small indoor garden area, very pleasant. Nice fresh Costa Rican coffee, and tea is also offered.

Humberto and Carmen are a gracious and welcoming young Costa Rican couple.

Tricolor car rental agency is a short drive away, as well as other car rental agencies. So it was very convenient to get our rental car.

I recommend Hotel Villa Bonita if you want an inexpensive place to stay near the airport that is clean and safe. It is a nice introduction to Costa Rica. For the price you pay, you get a little extra "pura vida" along with your basic clean room!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 05:44 AM
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Melissa, just curious what is the drive time between LI and Ecotermales? Do they arrange transportation or do you have to take a taxi (if you don't have a car?) Also, I have read that there are trails at LI. Did you take any of them? I really like to hike around and wondering if there are enough trails to keep me busy for at least several hours. Thanks and welcome back
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 08:56 AM
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Tully, you can walk from the Lost Iguana to the Hanging Bridges in 10 minutes. Then, take your time and take about 2 hours to hike the Hanging Bridges trails in the morning, we saw howler monkeys (stop and listen, look up when you see rustling in the trees) and lots of really cool insects. Take binoculars. Lost Iguana will sell you half-price tickets for the Hanging Bridges for $10. We drove to the Hanging Bridges in about 5 minutes with the whole family, but hubby took a separate walk on his own so he knows it's about a 10-minute hike to the Hanging Bridges from the Lost Iguana.

It's about a 20-minute drive from Lost Iguana to the Ecotermales.

The Lost Iguana can make calls for your taxi as long as their phones aren't out again! When we were there it was just after a big storm which was a tree-knocking storm and the phone lines were out! No cell phone service from Lost Iguana.

Once when hubby was gone with the car someone from the front desk drove 5 minutes down the road for me to make a cell phone call to get the resevations for Ecotermales!

I think you can actually rent a car for a few days in ARenal.

Have fun!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 09:19 AM
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Melissa,
so glad I got my new computer up and running in time to see your report. Sounds like you all had a wonderful trip. I knew bio hubby would love Monteverde. If you should ever go back to cr I would highly recommend La selva for him. there is plenty of stuff there for you also-I can only take so many bio lessons while on vacation and look forward to more physical activities like rafting, kayaking etc-heck, even a hammock is physical enough at times LOL. My husbands retirement is in progress and he is looking forward to going back to school and doing research down there.

the main part of our house is heated primarily with wood although we have two propane furnaces for the house as well. It can get pretty stinky if someone doesn't know what they are doing and smokes the place up. we have housesitters that won't use the fireplace because of that. we set off the smoke detectors plenty of times while learning how to use it .

Sounds like you got a good look at both primary and secondary forests. Each has its own special appeal to us although the primary forests are just awe inspiring because of their age. I keep expecting a prehistoric creature to peek out from the tree ferns. Hard to believe they were growing so many years ago as well as now. I guess it takes a biologist in the family to really appreciate some of the more hidden aspects of it. I, like you, are fortunate to have a bunch of them in the family. as you mentioned, it can get very cool and very windy up there. I have had to bundle up many times up there.

Happy also that you had some clear weather to see the lava. It is an unbelievable sight.

Jessie_

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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 09:29 PM
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Jessie, yes, Monteverde is so cool, and I am now suffering from cloud forest and rain forest withdrawal symptoms... I miss my beautiful green tropical canopy! I miss hearing 6 different frog calls at once...

That's it for my Monteverde report but I've got more to report for Arenal, La Finca Que Ama, and Hotel Bougainvillea.

My husband and I agree we must return to Costa Rica someday. I'm so happy I have all of you to rely on for suggestions for our next trip to Costa Rica! (Probably won't be for a couple years since we're going to Ireland next summer.)

Below I'll post the rest of the trip report.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 09:43 PM
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Melissa5,

The poetry was lovely.

I can't wait to hear more of your trip report and perhaps more excerpts of poems!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 10:22 PM
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Misha2, thanks for the compliments and I'll pass them on to my daughter too. Elaine's e-mail address is [email protected] At the time I made my reservations she was handling Lost Iguana reservations herself, but I think her staff handles them now. she's the owner and was very good about answering my questions.

Now I'm looking forward to posting more on Arenal and the rest of this trip report.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 11:31 PM
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ARENAL (continued):

HANGING BRIDGES, Arenal:

The Hanging Bridges, Arenal, hold a special place in my memory. Our first rainforest experience together! It was fantastic.

The Hanging Bridges, Arenal are trails through primary rainforest joined by 8 fixed bridges and 6 hanging bridges. Can you handle them if you have a fear of heights? Yes, you can do it! I did and loved it!

The Hanging Bridges may also be known as Puentes Colgantes Del Arenal. They are 600 acres of protected rainforest; or 250 hectares of primary rainforest.

The project has been beautifully designed to allow man to penetrate the rainforest and yet still leave the rainforest intact. I think they did an excellent job with this delicate balance!

We got our tickets for half-price ($10 each) at our hotel, the Lost Iguana resort, Arenal. Hanging Bridges are a 10-minute walk or a 5-minute drive from the Lost Iguana resort, Arenal.

We scurried past the guides lingering about the entrance to the Hanging Bridges.

Guides seem to lead overly-large tour groups through this project, and it is best to avoid them because the guides have to shout to be heard by everyone, and this spoils the song of the rainforest!

If you need a guide hire a private one just for your family group.

Our guide was my hubby the biologist. My artistic daughter who has an eye for detail was equally helpful. My son the engineer spotted quite a few things too.

Although the total walking distance is 1.9 miles, it took us 2 hours, because if you want to see anything, you need to go slowly and stop frequently.

Our biggest thrill was hearing howler monkeys for the first time, and spending the whole 2 hours trying to find them. It created a sense of suspense. Finally near the end of the walk we spotted our first 3 howler monkeys up in the trees overhead!

I would have been happy just hearing the howler monkeys, and was doubly thrilled to actually see them.

How to spot monkeys and other hard-to-see animals in the dense rainforest? Go slowly, stopping often. Listen for sounds in the trees and foliage and look where you see motion in the branches. Be as quiet as possible.

And stay away from those large noisy tour groups!

Equally thrilling was the fascinating variety of exotic insects minding their own business right beside the trail.

No problems with any stings, bites, or anything scary. I do suggest you wear shoes with socks, NOT sandals on this trail. Also best NOT to grab onto the trees as you walk.

As my son put it, there could be an entire alternate universe living on one leaf in the rainforest. Imagine what is living on the tree!

Also, if you see mud on the trail, believe it or not, you should step in the mud, and on dry-looking rocks, for a firm foothold. You should NOT step on the tree roots in the trail as they are very slippery in the rainy season!

The Hanging Bridges trails, Arenal, received our unanimous family vote as wonderful. We really enjoyed the adventure of trying to spot things on our own. Here's my journal entry for the Hanging Bridges trails:

"Wow! Better than expected! We went on our own with 1 pair of binoculars. A walk through a rainforest. Go slowly, stopping often to examine a miriad of tiny well-behaved insects, amazing variety of fauna.

One snake slithers quickly away, only my son spots him. A beetle does a tiny dance on a leaf.

An insect that eats other insects. Calls of the elusive howler monkeys here and there, tantalizingly close yet out of sight. Sense of an adventure, anticipation, will we see a monkey?

Listen...calls in the forest, birds, howler monkeys, insects, frogs. Escape into a seductive jungle. Sweating in the high humidity, temps between 70 and 80.

And finally - our first monkey spotting! 3 howler monkeys, near the end of the walk. SO satisfying to have found them on our own (I would have been happy just hearing their calls!)

Definitely well worth our $10! I was afraid of heights but the forest canopy deceives me into feeling protected, as if I am not so high after all. Not at all like standing on the edge of the Grand Canyon."

Leaf-cutter ants are one of the fascinating type of insects you will see here. Look for a little trail of bits of bright green leaves going beside the trail and then up a tree...fascinating!

You will miss the leaf-cutter ants and other small treasures if you go full speed ahead trying to "finish" the hike. Don't forget, it's not a race, it's a treasure hunt.

If everyone else is passing you, then you are going at just the right pace. If you are always passing everyone else, then you are going too fast.

I think the Hanging Bridges are worth the full price of $20 if you can't get the discount tickets.

Since you aren't allowed off the trails in the protected rainforests, there is no other way to experience the rainforest. You have to pay the price charged for the trails that have been made for visitors.

Are you afraid of snakes? Hubby is also a herpetologist and breeds snakes. He says snakes won't bother you unless you make them mad by sitting on them or stepping on them. No worries! (Also don't play with mice and then handle snakes...you would then smell like dinner!)

Check out their web-site at www.hangingbridges.com
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 02:59 AM
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Melissa5,

Welcome back! I am so enjoying this thread, including your poetry and the vivid descriptions of your trip. Just reading your report of the rainforest made me feel like I was right there!!!

Last Nov our family visited the Daintree Rainforest in AU with a private guide and loved it!!! I think we will hire one for the Hanging Bridges instead of Manuel Antonio based on what you've reported. Did you go to the beaches in MA?

We will be in CR in December, visiting MA, Arenal and some of the Central Valley. Thanks for all the information and for being such a thorough reporter!!! Jayne
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 04:56 AM
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Melissa thanks for info on Hanging Bridges, will definitely visit on my next trip.

btw - shillmac was tickled pink yesterday upon checking into Villa Bonita, guess you wrote 'shillmac from fodors' on the referral when you checked in.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 06:06 AM
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Melissa,

My husband and I are planning a trip for the first week in August. I noticed that you mentioned that Tabacon was in a danger zone? Coud you elaborate on this? Recetnlt my husband heard stories about Costa Rica being unsafe for tourists. Did you notice this at all?

Thanks
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 08:46 AM
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ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS:

Jayneann, yes, yes, hire a private guide for the Hanging Bridges instead of Manuel Antonio park reserve, that is, if you feel you need a private guide. See if you can get a guide who seems knowledgeable about nature. We found guides can vary in their knowledge, some better than others.

If I were going to hire a guide upon our return to costa rica, I would consider searching on-line for the name of a specific guide and seeing if I could reserve with him/her in advance. Or, second choice, try to "interview" the guides who are hanging about at the entrance!

Thank you for the praises about my trip report! I find it is more work than it seems to write a good one, but I love it!

I'm dumb, by "AU" do you mean Australia? The Daintree reserve must be nice and we love traveling. I like to know about good places to visit.

TULLY, shillmac was so helpful to me! I don't think I would have made it to costa rica without her enthusiasm. I was so full of worries! No worries about it now. I want to return.

ESHAIN, Costa Rica is probably safer for tourists than the USA, where I live! Sure there are risks but I'm a big chicken, which you will notice if you click on my name and look up all my previous worries. I researched and took my family to the safest areas and hotels that I could find. I felt Costa Rica was safe.

Tabacon hot springs, according to the New Key to Costa Rica, are in what vulcanologists consider a danger zone because the volcano could potentially spew out lava and boulders onto them. But if I didn't tell you this, and you visited Tabacon, you wouldn't see any sign of this danger. You would feel totally safe. Lots of people have visited TAbacon and it hasn't harmed any tourists yet! I am just reporting what I read in the guidebook, that Tabacon hot springs, which are so popular with tourists, are interestingly in an official danger zone. Cars in the parking lot have to park facing the road in case they have to evacuate.

You just have to calculate your risks and decide what is worth it. That's life. Even Disneyland has killed some tourists on its rides, but not very many. As long as it's not you who dies, you're safe! There was a tragic accident not too long ago at Disneyland. Less than a year ago I think it was, maybe a year ago. I read all about it. A young man was killed on thunder mountain railroad ride. They closed the ride to research the problem but the ride has now re-opened. does this make disneyland unsafe? You have to decide.

I chose to boycott Tabacon hot springs for 3 reasons: 1) it's expensive and the weather was hot and humid so hot springs weren't as appealing as I thought they'd be 2) they are crowded and lots of cars parked outside compared to other spots. seemed touristy to us. 3) I resented paying a high price to be in a danger zone which they don't tell you about!

The biggest risk you will take in costa rica, honestly, is just driving, or being driven, on the roads. In the USA we have dangers of traffic accidents too, but for different reasons. But we did drive ourselves in costa rica and I would do it again. You have to make sure your driver is alert at all times. And pray!

We drove through a tree-knocking storm from Alajuela to Arenal! It was sunny when we started out. Thunder was crashing and lightning zinging around. It knocked 2 trees into the road. The police had to come. But we survived and made it to Arenal. Oh, am I leaving the wrong impression here? We weren't in any accident, we were just terified! Actually my young adult kids thought it was thrilling, like a thrill ride at disneyland, and they were fighting over who should have the best seat for the best view of the storm!

Jayneann, honestly, I'm a cautious person and full of fears. I went to costa Rica and I plan on going again. Decide which risks you think are worth taking. Life is like that. Have a wonderful trip!

The Arenal volcano is an active volcano. Thrilling to see but remember nature is not to be tamed!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 08:59 AM
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Thanks for all the great info. We are visiting the same destinations so I found your report very helpful and well written.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 01:19 PM
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Wanatryl, thanks, glad to help. I think Arenal, Manuel Antonio, and Monteverde are a good introduction to the wonders of Costa Rica. Here's more on Arenal below:
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 01:39 PM
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ARENAL (continued):

DRIVING THRU A STORM!

We left Alajuela in sunny weather and drove into a tree-knocking storm on the way to Arenal!!!

Thunder was crashing and lightning zinging. Two trees jumped into the road. The police had to come. There was a brief traffic snarl on the narrow road.

While the storm raged and somebody cleared the road, my young adult kids sat in the car and fought over who got the best seat to see the exciting storm! Meanwhile I was terrified about survival.

Understand we live in San Diego and real thunder and lightning are rare for us. We don't get hurricanes.

We made it alive to the Lost Iguana Resort, Arenal!

It was sunny every morning in Costa Rica for us, and rained almost every afternoon. Sometimes it was a gentle, warm rain. Sometimes there were exciting cracks of thunder and lightning striking. As long as we didn't have to drive in it, we found it added to the atmosphere!

There's nothing like a rainforest as a gentle, warm rain begins.

There's nothing like watching the Arenal Volcano erupt from your room at the Lost Iguana, with lightning still zinging in the distance, and the sky still clapping thunder somewhere. There we were, sitting on our private patios at the Lost Iguana, watching the power of nature give us a free show!

Have you ever eaten at the Rainforest Cafe? There's one in Las Vegas, Nevada, and one near Disneyland in California. It has a fake rainforest and a fake thunder-storm indoors. Well, this one was for real!!!

Make sure your vehicle has good tires for wet weather. Try to get up early and do most of your driving in the morning in Costa Rica.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 02:07 PM
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LOST IGUANA RESORT, ARENAL:

Here is more information about the Lost Iguana Resort, Arenal.

In June 2005 during our visit the Lost Iguana Resort and the Arenal Observatory Lodge had the best view of the lava flow.

Ignore the volcano view and pick the hotel that sounds best for your needs. That's what I did, and nature gave us the bonus plan...The lava flow moved from the Arenal Paraiso side to our side, the Lost Iguana side of the volcano. Thank you, mother nature! We saw lava flow from our rooms all 3 nights we were at the Lost Iguana, Arenal!

RESTAURANT AT THE LOST IGUANA, ARENAL:

We loved the open-air design of the restaurant at the Lost Iguana resort. There's a roof over your head and no walls or glass between you and your beautiful view. Here's a journal entry written during my lunch at the Lost Iguana restaurant:

"Here I am at the Lost Iguana Resort. Losing track of time. Away here in paradise. Tired and happy after hiking at the Hanging Bridges.

Lunching in the open-air restaurant here at the Lost Iguana. Roof over my head and no walls. Green tropical view of jungle-style vegetation.

Arenal volcano wearing a crown of white clouds. Frog/insect "orchestra" playing harmonically in nature!

Family has gone to canyon waterfall rapelling. The air is humid, lulling me to sleep with this drink - something Costa Rican with lime.

Love the peace and privacy at the Lost Iguana. So seductive.

Love the frog chorus/insects/bird sounds. Love the memory of the sound of rainfall from our room."

BREAKFAST BUFFET AT THE LOST IGUANA resort Arenal:

Brakfast buffet included in room price. Served in the open-air restaurant with nice view described above. Breakfast buffet tended to offer coffee, tea, eggs, bacon, pancakes, french-toast-type-stuff, fresh fruit, gallo pinto (beans and rice), cereal, potatoes, fried plantain (typical costa rican item, like fried bananas, yum). I would rate the breakfast buffet as pretty good, satisfying. Better than average.

LUNCH AT THE LOST IGUANA RESORT RESTAURANT:

Lunch was my least favorite meal here. Ordered a chicken salad sandwich that was pretty skimpy on the chicken and served on boring white bread. About $5.

DINNER AT THE LOST IGUANA RESORT RESTAURANT:

Dinner was enjoyable and pretty good food with nice atmosphere. We enjoyed dinner here. Dinner entree between $8.50 and $14. Volcano view, with red lava flow against dark night sky from restaurant. (That is, if the lava flow doesn't move again!)

More on the Lost Iguana Resort and Arenal later.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 03:42 PM
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Yes, Melissa, AU is Australia. Last November we visited there while one of our sons was doing a college semester abroad. We visited three areas, but our favorite was Cairns, where the rainforest and Great Barrier Reef are located!

If you are looking for a new destination (after Ireland) Australia would be a wonderful trip. We loved it!! The Daintree Rainforest is the oldest rainforest in the world with spectacular flora including cycads that dinosaurs used to feed on. It was absolutely beautiful and I'll bet your hubby would love it!!!

Looking forward to (hopefully) your report on Manuel Antonio next!!!!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 07:51 PM
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I'm loving your detailed trip info - we leave for arenal in 10 days.

Please tell me - how long does the sky trek tour take? Could you see much volcano activity during the zip lines?

The earliest trip appears to be 9 am.

If we don't have enough time we'll have to do the Arenal Paraiso zip lines instead (they start earlier?)
THANK YOU!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 08:47 PM
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Hi Melissa:

I've been researching a trip to CR with my niece who is 16. I'm pretty sure we're going to have a car and I'm curious about the driving - I am a big chicken! How are the roads? The tour guide book I've been reading says you need nerves of steel to drive there. We're planning on going July 21 or 28. Any troubles with two women traveling alone?

Thank you so much! My fears are sending me into possibly not going. Yikes. Ahgee
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