Wanted - Non-Touristy Restaurants in Palermo!
 

I've read through all the threads containing Palermo (and on TA also) and have found some help. I loved reading through Saltshaker's Blog! And Sweet Polly's review was a hoot! But many of the suggestions are way too $$$ for our pocketbook.

I'd love to find a list of places that AVR eats at -

" I go out to dinner with my wife almost every day, to pretty good places. We spend between 20 and 25 dollars for both of us, for a very good meal, with a small bottle of wine. Unfortunately, we don't see any tourists in those places."

This is exactly what we are looking for and we would love to be the tourists in those places! Would you share some of these locations with us? (Especially any located in Palermo!) And drop by to join us; we'll buy the wine.

Budget Brahmama

That's really an extremely generous offer, Budget Brahmama, particularly considering the fact that I don't drink!! LOL!!!!

However, let's see what I can do for you, with a bottle of carbonated Villavicencio mineral water as my only potential reward!!! LOL!!

One problem is that I'm not at all acquainted with the restaurants in the Palermo area, which has become more and more touristy lately. Maybe someone else will help you with that area. However, there MUST be restaurants in Palermo, mainly catering to locals, which will fit your criteria.

Another problem is that I don't live in town and to go to the restaurants I usually go to, you'd have to take a cab or some other means of transportation.

Some restaurants which would seem to be right for you: Desnivel, La Caballeriza (several locations) and La Cabrera Norte, which is in Palermo, but I've never been to.

One tip, just between you and me: Why don't you try La Pava, in Fernández de Enciso 3909, Villa Devoto. Phone: 4504-8283. However, don't expect your waiter to speak English!! LOL!!!

Ask for Mr. Juan Carlos (the owner) and tell him Mr. Gallo sent you. He'll probably charge you more!! LOL!!!

Don't know if La Parollacci is in Palermo or not since those areas just run together for me, but it is a great Italian restuarant with dinners for two plus a bottle wine or beers to be under $30 usd. It is on Riobamba just off Santa Fe and Callao. Our hotel staff recommended this, and it was wonderful everytime we ate there. There are many little cafes on the streets that are great too and not expensive. The tourist areas of course have the most expensive meals. When we were out walking and sightseeing, we watched for places that seemed popular with locals (at least we thought were local), and then went there. We were never disappointed, and the prices were unbelievable. It is not hard to find inexpensive meals in BA!

What used to be a neighbor parrilla, where I used to go every Sunday with my children, is now more trendy but I guess it will be ok, it is the heart of Palermo near the US embassy, its name is Rio Alba.

La Parollacci is a local chain. The Palermo branch is called La Parollacia Casa Tuya and is at the corner of Repulica Arabe Sira and Guttirrez (not far from the zoo and the Evita museum). I agree with college mom's assessment. A great place to eat for not much money.

Another option is Social Pariaso for some really great meals on a limited budget. On Hoduras near the corner of Uriarte.

Brahmama, if you are looking for ways to enjoy BA food on a budget, try the luncheon specials available at most restaurants (Menu del dia). For 15-24 pesos (5 to 8 dollars per person) you can enjoy three or four courses and a drink--wine, soda, or water with or without cabonation, coffee or tea.

Brahmama, you must have been reading my mind. I was thinking of asking the same question. We'll be staying in the Palermo area Oct 26 on and off through Nov 18. When will you be there?

We try to find the little places where the locals eat. I've written a bunch down from these nice Fodor people, but I could always use more. I don't plan to cook!

Great replies! Thanks for taking the time.

AV, you deserve at least two bottles of Villavicencio Mineral Water for your suggestion. La Pava sounds interesting. One of your favorite places? Does that mean I should just charge it to you???

Collegemom, thanks for the reassurance. We like local places too, but I only have enough Spanish to be dangerous and when I get excited I mix it up with Italian and Body Language. Oh well - at least I make people smile even though I have ended up with unusual food that I didn't know I ordered.

Graziella, the Rio Alba Parrilla sounds just perfect. Our first stop will have to be lomo and malbec; I've been lusting for it for years. (This is our first trip)

Drdwaggy, our hotel is very close to Social Pariaso - right across the Av Juan B. Justo. And I'll be looking for menu del dias.

Granny, we won't be there until January. By then you will be back and hopefully a great new trip report will be online! Where are you staying in Palermo? Is this your first trip? Only a month to go for your trip!

Budget Brahmama:

One bottle of Villavicencio mineral water is enough, but it has to be carbonated, which you did not specify.

I've only been to La Pava once, because it is far from where I live now, but I believe it fits your criteria.

Its owner (Mr. Juan Carlos) used to run one of my favorite restaurants and that's why I know him.

When we had dinner there, he did not allow us to pay, but you should not push your luck too much. LOL!!!!

While it sounds like you are looking for something a little more swanky, I thought I would throw in this suggestion:

Our first meal in Buenos Aires was lunch at a restaurant called Tomato, on av. Cordoba in Palermo (around the block from La Otra Orilla B&B).

It was truly a locals' joint--I felt like we were wearing bright red lights that flashed "tourist!!!" when we walked in and sat down.

Anyway, the place was packed to the rafters with everyone from families to groups of cigarette-chomping macho-looking men to average looking teenagers hanging around on a Saturday afternoon.

Tomato had something of everything 'tipica' on the menu: chicken, meat, empanadas, salads, pasta. But, and maybe it was because it was our first meal in the city, maybe we were still a little worn from our 16-hour flight, I swear we had one of the best pizza in our lives at this place!

It's probably not the place to go for an intimate and quiet dinner, but if you like people watching, then it is certainly worth the stop for lunch if you're in the neighbourhood.

bookmark. thanks

Brahmama, we arrive in BA Oct 13, Friday the 13th! Good thing I'm not superstitious! We're traveling to Mendoza, then Bariloche and back to Ba, where we rented an apartment on Vidt for about two weeks.

I don't think we'll have time to visit museums, we'll be too busy trying all the restaurants Drdawggy and avrooster and others have suggested.

Do they frown on doggy bags? I'm sure there will lots of leftovers and I don't plan to cook for 5 weeks (hurray!!), but I'm not above reheating stuff.

Granny, will you be posting a blog or trip reports while you are in Argentina? If so, please give me the link.

"Tomato" sounds very interesting and I'm adding it to my list as possibles! I know there are so many great place to eat in Bs As. I prefer a "locals" place to a "fancy" place any day.

Granny, 5 weeks! I am speechless and I am jealous. What a great time. And yes, I agree with cmcfong, please post links to all your reviews. I can't wait to read them.

From TR's that I have read, people must take home food from the oversized portions. Because they talk about having a lomo sandwich the next day.

Granny, have you settled on a Tango Venue? I can't decided if we want to have a restaurant meal somewhere first, and then show up (with reservations) for a late Tango show, just with drinks.

Also, where are you staying? We are staying in Palermo (Soho or Hollywood - don't know the difference, really) at the hotel Krista. Reviewed on TA but not here on Fodor's. (Until *I* get back!)

Thanks for the compliments on my blog! Here's a bunch that fit for a more budget minded trip...

For an inexpensive Palermo parrilla, I'd go to El Trapiche, Paraguay 5099 - been there for eons, really good quality, waiters who know what they're doing, and inexpensive. They probably even have water for Av...

Really good quality pizza and even better calzones at Franz y Peppone, Paraguay 5302.

British Pub-Curry House - Bangalore, Humboldt 1416 - lots of fun, and decent Indian food.

Bio, Humboldt 2129, vegetarian - for that day when your body needs a break!

Gardelito, Humboldt 1668 - classic and good porteño cuisine, casual ambiance, cheap prices.

La Celeste, Medrano 1475 - Uruguayan parrilla - quite good, fun place

La Pharmacie, Vidt 1893 - inexpensive and really well made pasta

Pizza Libre, Scalabrini Ortiz 1599 - all you can eat pizza for next to nothing, and it's good too!

Providencia, Cabrera 5995 - lunch only, vegetarian creative, and cheap!

Sarkis, Thames 1101 - the king of the Armenian/Middle Eastern restaurants, nobody does it better, and they're one of the least expensive!

Those should keep you busy for a bit!

Saltshaker,
Thanks for the updates. I had a few already checked, but the veggie, pizza and Middle Eastern are now on our list.
M (SMdA, Gto.)

Granny may not be aware of the "splitting" custom. My Buenos Aires friend often ordered a meal split with me in Buenos Aires. It was the perfect solution to large portions and yet very ample and satisfying. After wonderful starters, it was just the right amount. With all the great places to eat, you may not want to bring leftovers home!

Thanks Folks, for all the restaurant tips. I don't think we'll go hungry! I hope to find new ones to add to everyone's lists.

Saltshaker, we always look for vegetarian restaurants whenever we travel, for a change of pace. Thanks for your suggestions.

We're rented an apartment on Vidt from bytargentina. in Palermo. They were quick to reply and helpful.

We want to go to the Tango show that is something Carlos. Can't find the whole name. It was suggested we just go for a drink and the show and eat elsewhere.

I'll try to write from each location, but it will be brief. I want to enjoy the moment.

Carlos Gardel. I usually eat when I go to Tango shows. The meals vary by show...Carlos Gardel is actually decent...simply because in most places the seats for the show itself are much better when you eat.

It is Esquina Carlos Gardel.
http://www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar/
The show is supposed to be very good and the food quite decent.

What great information! THanks, Saltshaker, for the Palermo leads, esp the veggie and mid East ones. Also glad to read the recs. for the tango shows AND the info about plate splitting. (Makes sense to me!)

Granny,
We're leaving tonight for Boston and will be back on the 10th and you'll be packing and getting ready. If I don't "talk" to you before you go, have a wonderful time and enjoy enjoy. I'll be looking to read all your posts. Don't worry about posting as you go along! I hope this trip will be even better than you anticipate!
Cheers,
Carol