Two Weeks in Paradise: La Carolina/Nosara/Rincon de la Vieja
 

I am going to keep this short (ish), but I'm happy to answer questions. This was our 4th trip to CR, so we wanted to explore new territory. First on our list was La Carolina, a small property near Canas and the Rio Celeste. We had allotted five nights here. Four nights seemed about right to me, the extra night was a bonus. We first learned about this place from shillmac, who has yet to steer us wrong.

This is a super laid-back, friendly and rustic spot, ideal for serious chill-time, owned by a southern guy, Bill, and his wife, Karien, who is originally from Holland. They have two small boys. We rented a new cabin on the river with its own wood-fired hot tub. Purr-fect for Mr. and Mrs. Cattail. Bill, Karien and the boys rotate between the US and CR, so we were fortunate to meet them. We arrived via the taxi they had sent, the same time as a small bus of tourists. Karien greeted us, and offered us a beverage before having someone show us around. Now, no-one here speaks much English aside from the owners, so it helps to arrive with the mindset of having an opportunity to practice your Spanish.

We absolutely loved this place. We rode horses, paddled a boat on their small lake, fished in the lake and in the river, hiked to the Rio Celeste and around the property, read in the hammock, ate three delicious meals a day, practiced saying hello in several different languages, hung out in the magnificent public hot tub overlooking a small waterfall, drank Imperials in our own private wood-heated tub, bird-watched, and relaxed. Everything was included in the $85 per person rate, activities, meals, even a guide for the Rio Celeste hike, though we didn't especially need one. There is limited electricity, though we preferred the candlelight.

I have never been anywhere with people so accommodating, warm and friendly! When it started raining as we were at the lake, someone came by to check if we wanted a ride, Mr. Cattail wanted to fish, no problemo, worms were dug and a pole produced. A couple arrived with a baby; the little boy was instantly swept up by cooing, smiling women, giving the parents time on their own. Karien made sure our connections were correct to our next destination, and assisted us in using their iffy internet connection to inform relatives at home of our well-being. I have no idea how Bill, Karien and their small "family" manage to keep up with everyone, but they do. This wonderful spot set the bar high for the rest of our trip!

I didn't know you were there! Your words make me smile--love this place. Another friend is going there this next week. Sounds like there have been some changes, but I still hear evidence of the same wonderful Take Me Away Calgon atmosphere! Can't wait to hear more!!

Are you shoveling today?!

Love to hear all the praise for La Carolina, as my family of four are headed there in April! Looking forward to hearing of your other adventures!

Yeah, probably a few changes, electricity, a new cabin or two. Did they always take small tours? Shoveling? Well, one of us did...

thanks, candc,how long will you be staying?

We were picked up promptly in the morning by a personable young guy from Desafio, who we had arranged the rest of our transfers through. This first transfer was to be a white water rafting adventure on the Tenario River, followed by lunch and then onward to Lagarta Lodge in Nosara. This adventure/transfer combination is a relatively new offering for Desafio, so hopefully they can work out the kinks.

We waited for about 45 minutes or so next to a field for others to join us in a procession to the river. Meanwhile, our driver, also one of the boat "captains", entertained us with stories and pictures of the crew. It was reassuring to find out that these guys were tops in the country in white water rafting, and were honored to compete in a world competition.

Indeed, Mr. Cattail and I kept reminding ourselves of this fact each time we plunged down a vertical drop and off the boat, seemingly to our deaths. I must say, by the third time I was more or less resigned.

Having survived this tort... I mean adventure, we transferred to another van and travelled to a small soda for a yummy lunch.

Brave woman, cat - I'm looking forward to reading more!

I know some of you other Fodor Folk can relate; I wrote a detailed narrative, only to hit a wrong key and have it all erase! What follows is therefore a condensed review of just our accommodations:

Lagarta Lodge, Nosara: a to-die-for view and the most spectacular sunset I've ever witnessed. The new rooms are large and lovely, each with a private balcony overlooking the river, ocean and treetops, which monkeys occasionally swing through. The male owner we did not find very warm or engaging, but his wife, Regina, is very pleasant. The grounds, gardens and pool area are well-maintained and clean. Good food. I'm way too spoiled by the Osa to rate their private reserve, but they are doing their part to conserve some land. Nosara in general was not our thing, for reasons I couldn't fully put my finger on, but this is a great-value, attractive, secluded hotel.

Hacienda Guachapelin, Rincon de la Vieja: We had a clean, quiet room. Well-kept grounds, lots of hiking on-site. Friendly, helpful staff. Excellent restaurant. We were able to largely avoid crowds by not doing any tours and avoiding the cafeteria for lunch. Complimentary entry into their thermal pool area and included shuttle to and from the park. Major problem with the shuttle: completely ignored the last stop of the day, leaving us stranded. I would for sure return, but not without my own transportation.

Cattail, you are surely not alone. Lesson learned, and nowadays I am using Notepad or Word to write a report and then copy/paste into forum post. Also, very nice report. I am glad that La Caroline lived up to your expectations, it is one place that is most memorable one for me as well as for my family. Any celebrity sightings? And is Diablo (the black stallion) still in the herd?

Hi shillmac...I recall your advice way back when my husband and I planned our first trip in 2004! Now we are headed back on trip #3 in April with 4 little kids tagging along. :) La Carolina looks awesome but based on their website it appears it might not be the best place for young kids? Don't want to hijack the thread here, but do you have any other secrets up your sleeve for a family with 4 young (and adventurous!) kids? We;re running into problems with availability and logistics of our second week.

One of these days I'm going to La Carolina and Hacienda G. Thanks for writing about, sounds like another great trip.

Hi sclubb! Congrats on the new addition (s?) to your family! Yes, I have lots of ideas about traveling there with little kids. We've done it a lot with the granddaughters. Do you mind e-mailing me at [email protected]? Or we could hook up on Facebook. Would love to visit with you!

Sounds like a great trip - very relaxing (other than the rafting ;)).

If you're ever looking at the Nosara area again, check out Luna Azul--it would seem to fit your taste/style.

Our actual accomodations (in terms of the physical structure, not necessarily the view or setting) there were probably our favorite anywhere we've stayed in Costa Rica. Spacious, modern, comfortable, yet open to nature (entire bathroom is open air, and the deck wraps around so that you can walk from the shower outside to your deck and back into your bedroom, with enough privacy to do so freely).

And we're totally going to stay at Lagarta Lodge at some point--we hiked their reserve and were blown away by the view.

xelas, yes, lesson learned. No celebrities that I'm aware of, but several black horses. Did you ride Diablo? All of the horses we saw seemed so sweet and gentle....

sclubb, just my opinion, but I think that La Carolina is ideal for young kids. Great family atmosphere, and the owners have two small boys of their own. There are snakes and such, but that's true throughout the country. shillmac?

Thanks, tully and janenicole!

Hey, RAC, thanks for the tip! Nothing I enjoy much more than researching places to stay on upcoming trips. and fantastic report, by the way... I'm so glad that it didn't vanish into cyberspace the way mine did; it would have been a loss. I so enjoyed it!

Heck, no, I was happy with the sweet and gentile one ;)!