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Trip Report for May 2008 (BA, Salta & surroundings) - Part IV

Trip Report for May 2008 (BA, Salta & surroundings) - Part IV

Jun 11th, 2008, 06:15 PM
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 301
Trip Report for May 2008 (BA, Salta & surroundings) - Part IV

We had 2.5 more days in BA after the trip to the N-W. On Friday we took a cab to Palermo and just bumped around most of the day enjoying the area. We returned to the hotel with the subte, which was easy to use and very inexpensive.

At 7pm we were picked up by Flor (María Florencia Ilarregui) from VIEJO CORREO- Tango y Milonga. We had had a lengthy correspondence with her prior to our departure from NY as I was looking for a Milonga which is not touristy, where they allow a couple to sit together and one that doesnít start at midnight. We didnít care for a show, I was trying to find something authentic, more down to earth. I found what I was looking for and this was our best evening in BA.

Flor is a lovely student who works part time for the Milonga. She offered us different options including a package deal with pick-up and delivery, dinner and the privilege to watch the locals dancing. We took the package as the Milonga was relatively far (about a half hour away from the hotel).

We got incredible service, the chef greeted us and offered a very good dinner including lomo, a fantastic ice cream, wine, etc. But what we enjoyed the most was watching the dancers. It was very interesting to observe the ďritualĒ followed for asking, accepting (or rejecting) a dance partner. The two sexes sit at separate tables on opposite sides on the room and they just look at each other. When based on the looks they agree to dance together they get up and they are on the dance floor for 3 rounds. In between the rounds the music suddenly stops and they just chat. Most couples were good dancers but a few danced like professionals. Watching them was for us great entertainment and pleasure, as we love to dance.

After a while we didnít feel to just watch. When you like to dance and like the music itís hard to just sit. We donít know how to dance the Argentinean Tango but the tango music was occasionally switched to other music and we finally dared to get up and dance. After we got the courage to participate, we danced even on tango music , the way we learned to dance tango when we were young.

Couples came over to talk with us; Flor always came by to help as most of them didnít speak English, we didnít speak Spanish. An older couple offered their phone number, in case we need it while we were there. Their care and instant friendliness really impressed us. We left after 1 am having had a great time. We were the only tourists. If you like dancing and you can appreciate watching real good dancers, this is a great place to go to. The website for Viejo Correo is
www.viejocorreotango.com.ar. You can contact Flor at: [email protected]. Thank you DrDraggy for your comments about the place, they helped me make decisions.

On Saturday we went back to Palermo, this time taking again the Subte and toured parks, the Japanese Garden, the local feria, and then we walked back to the hotel. It was quite a walk. We were supposed to have dinner for our last night in BA with Magellan and Avrooster.

Unfortunately it didnít happen as (mentioned already by Magellan and Avrooster), Magellan got sick and Avrooster could not come. We tried to re-instate our former reservation (that we cancelled when the dinner was confirmed) at Pena Colorado but it was too late and they didnít have any room for the evening.

Avrooster recommended a local place for dinner but I decided to try out a restaurant I picked from guiaoleo that was rated very highly and was reasonably priced. The rating matched the place. We were the only tourists, the food and service were great and the place was pleasing. The restaurant is called Refill, on Cordoba Av 3358. They open around 8:45. By 9:30 pm the place was full. Highly recommended.

On our last day we left the luggage at the Marriott and walked to San Telmo to the Sunday feria. Based on the descriptions I was not that excited about it, I am not particularly interested in antics. But the street fair had much more than antics and I was sorry that I couldnít stay longer.

There were many people selling all kinds of nice and interesting arts and crafts, musicians, dancers, clowns, etc. This was the place where I bought most of the presents that I brought back (beyond the alfajores). I also surprised myself with a scarf holder matched with a lovely silk scarf and some local beads. We had a great time walking around.

Unfortunately we had to return to go to the airport, the trip was coming to an end. The return was eventless.

The flight w. AA was on time and the plane was just as uncomfortable as on the trip to BA. But we arrived at 6am to NY after some sleep and we still had a day ahead of us to recover. Overall it was a great vacation. Thanks again to everyone who helped us plan it out.

The attached is a link to some pictures we took, should you be interested, including two from the Milonga, http://susanandgabefarkas.myphotoalb...umName=album11

I donít yet know when but we will go back to Argentina as there is so much more to see and the experience was great.
Suzanna is offline  
Jun 11th, 2008, 06:42 PM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,242
Thank you Suzanna, for a great final chapter!

I'm sorry I couldn't make it to that dinner. Certainly next time!
avrooster is offline  
Jun 11th, 2008, 07:44 PM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 288
Great report. Just 5 days until I leave for BA.

teach2travel is offline  
Jun 12th, 2008, 04:49 AM
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,541
Thanks for finishing up, great report & pics. Thanks for mentioning guiaoleo, had never come across that and just looked it up - will be very helpful for my trip.

Any idea on Floralis Genérica opening/closing times? My guidebooks say dawn & dusk but I was hoping to get a closer range of times.
tully is offline  
Jun 12th, 2008, 04:59 AM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,242
All I found was that it is supposed to open at 8 AM every day, closing near dusk, changing with the season.

Have a great time in our town.
avrooster is offline  

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