The Big Mexico Trip
Oct 21st, 2021, 01:05 PM
#61
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Hello MinnBeef - Yes, Mexico requires you to fill out a form to get Into the country. It's the same one you have probably filled out before. You can do it online, and we did, because we heard the airlines weren't giving the forms out. However, Delta did hand out the forms, which we should have filled out on the plane because they didn't like the one we had filled out and printed at home. The form is the FMM, Forma Migratoria Multiple. The adjuana, (customs) will staple a portion of your card to your passport and will take it back when you leave the country. Again it's the same one you have done before. We put in the wrong flight number at home, so they wouldn't take ours pre-printed.
Oct 21st, 2021, 01:35 PM
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Last full day in Guanajuato - I have been taking online Spanish classes through Escuela Mexicana, which is in Guanajuato and I got meet my instructor this morning. It was quite a treat, Juan Carlos gave me a tour of the school and it's much bigger than I thought. Start off the day with two museums, the Alhondiga and the Diego Rivera Casa Museum. For those of you who have not been to GTO, there is a giant statue of El Pipila on top the hill above the city that you can see from many points. During the first revolution, 1810, some of the local Spanish population we're holed up in the Alhondiga, which was a granary, and the insurgents were trying to bust in. Legend is that El Piplia stormed the door with a bomb or fire and created an opening into the building for the rebels. So this building is now a national museum and once you learn some Mexican history, it is really quite important, Bunker Hill meets Ft. Sumter kind of place. We really enjoyed seeing the outline of the revolution which lasted a couple of years, until they caught some of the rebels, Hidalgo, Aldama, Allende and cut off their heads and hung them on the corners of the Alhondiga! . 1821 Mexico won independence from Spain
Next was the Diego Rivera Casa Museum. First of all, I don't think there is much of the "casa" left. The casa was actually more of an apartment complex, similar to a brownstone and Diego's daughter bought the whole building to make the museum. There is some original furniture etc. The art work in the museum is really representative of his early career. We were very surprised how young he was when he started doing really nice work. 12 years old and he could really draw. He was in Paris at the same time as Picasso and they both experimented with cubism. I hate to admit I have always thought of him as the muralist and the husband of Selma Hayek, oops I mean Frida Kahlo. Lonely Planet really downplayed this museum but it is well worth an hour or two.
Last dinner tonight at Mestizo. It's been recommended by many and it was really nice. We both had fish, tuna and salmon and were very happy. Mestizo is a very small restaurant and we were seated next to 7 young women having a get together. Somewhere, someone once commented, Mexicans don't do quiet! Well these young ladies started out pretty loud but by the time food came, everyone was using their inside voices, us included.
There was some music at the Alhondiga but we were too late to get in. I think they limited it because of Covid. So we bought two Pay de Quesos and sat on the curb eating them. Kind of like a little custard cup with a graham cracker crust. $15 pesos for two! As great as the meal at Mestizo, you know what we will remember is giggling about how great this moment of being outside, at night, salsa playing in the background and eating these Pay de Quesos was!
Next was the Diego Rivera Casa Museum. First of all, I don't think there is much of the "casa" left. The casa was actually more of an apartment complex, similar to a brownstone and Diego's daughter bought the whole building to make the museum. There is some original furniture etc. The art work in the museum is really representative of his early career. We were very surprised how young he was when he started doing really nice work. 12 years old and he could really draw. He was in Paris at the same time as Picasso and they both experimented with cubism. I hate to admit I have always thought of him as the muralist and the husband of Selma Hayek, oops I mean Frida Kahlo. Lonely Planet really downplayed this museum but it is well worth an hour or two.
Last dinner tonight at Mestizo. It's been recommended by many and it was really nice. We both had fish, tuna and salmon and were very happy. Mestizo is a very small restaurant and we were seated next to 7 young women having a get together. Somewhere, someone once commented, Mexicans don't do quiet! Well these young ladies started out pretty loud but by the time food came, everyone was using their inside voices, us included.
There was some music at the Alhondiga but we were too late to get in. I think they limited it because of Covid. So we bought two Pay de Quesos and sat on the curb eating them. Kind of like a little custard cup with a graham cracker crust. $15 pesos for two! As great as the meal at Mestizo, you know what we will remember is giggling about how great this moment of being outside, at night, salsa playing in the background and eating these Pay de Quesos was!
Oct 21st, 2021, 04:23 PM
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Hello MinnBeef - Yes, Mexico requires you to fill out a form to get Into the country. It's the same one you have probably filled out before. You can do it online, and we did, because we heard the airlines weren't giving the forms out. However, Delta did hand out the forms, which we should have filled out on the plane because they didn't like the one we had filled out and printed at home. The form is the FMM, Forma Migratoria Multiple. The adjuana, (customs) will staple a portion of your card to your passport and will take it back when you leave the country. Again it's the same one you have done before. We put in the wrong flight number at home, so they wouldn't take ours pre-printed.
Thank you sir.
Oct 22nd, 2021, 04:14 PM
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San Miguel de Allende - Ok, we've been here for two days now and so far it is our least favorite city on our trip. Not that we don't like it but we don't shop, eat a lot, or hang out late, so it isn't really our kind of place. We arrived around 5PM at our hotel Casa Luna Hotel Boutique on Quebrada. No one around, luckily the door to the long courtyard is open but it is empty. Kind of spooky actually. We walk a good 30 yards to the back and there is the office. A young lady there behind a computer, no Buenas Tardes, Bienvenidos, simply says, Terry? and then hands us our paper work and takes my credit card. Our opinion of the hotel has not improved over the last two days. There is nothing that resembles any type of management. Each day there is a different young lady at the front desk. We are in the back by a big courtyard with two large round tables and as of Thursday and Friday night, from 5PM until 12PM there is a large group of Mexican friends talking, laughing, drinking, doing what friends do...10 feet from our bedroom.
Food highlights, tacos at Chicago Sabrosa on Zacateros, breakfast at Cafe Colibra, clean and cheap and breakfast at La Sacrista, a little more expensive but very charming. Lunch at El Pegaso was really good and chocolates from Johfrej! Also I caught a great jazz set at Cafe Rama. A trio, and they were superb in a very relaxed setting. My wife and I were the only diners from 7:00 until almost eight.
One thing I had expected was flocks of white people and that hasn't been the case. Probably because we are in the Centro and they may be in their own neighborhoods. However, when we came into town from Guanajuato, we say a section of brand new townhouse developments and a lot of restaurants and we were trying to guess, are we in Palm Springs or Sedona? The people here have been very nice, the waiters and a few people we have asked directions. Today we took the Trolley Tour, which is so-so a little more worth it than the Queretaro trolley because it takes you up to the Mirador, which I believe is a must see if you come here. A taxi can take you there. The Allende museum is interesting.
There was a young lady on our trolley with her parents with dyed red hair. We asked her if she was Lady Gaga! She said no and laughed and then a few minutes later she came over to us and said her mother made her come talk to us! She is studying languages here in SM. We had a really nice conversation and remembered our trip to Vietnam when a lot of people came up to talk to us in English.
Two days left, will see if my attitude changes. I mean it is wonderful walking around town, but there is a lot to see...but not a lot to do! So far San Miguel seems like endless streets of doors. Really fancy doors, and probably super cool spaces behind them but we are on the street trying to see in.
Food highlights, tacos at Chicago Sabrosa on Zacateros, breakfast at Cafe Colibra, clean and cheap and breakfast at La Sacrista, a little more expensive but very charming. Lunch at El Pegaso was really good and chocolates from Johfrej! Also I caught a great jazz set at Cafe Rama. A trio, and they were superb in a very relaxed setting. My wife and I were the only diners from 7:00 until almost eight.
One thing I had expected was flocks of white people and that hasn't been the case. Probably because we are in the Centro and they may be in their own neighborhoods. However, when we came into town from Guanajuato, we say a section of brand new townhouse developments and a lot of restaurants and we were trying to guess, are we in Palm Springs or Sedona? The people here have been very nice, the waiters and a few people we have asked directions. Today we took the Trolley Tour, which is so-so a little more worth it than the Queretaro trolley because it takes you up to the Mirador, which I believe is a must see if you come here. A taxi can take you there. The Allende museum is interesting.
There was a young lady on our trolley with her parents with dyed red hair. We asked her if she was Lady Gaga! She said no and laughed and then a few minutes later she came over to us and said her mother made her come talk to us! She is studying languages here in SM. We had a really nice conversation and remembered our trip to Vietnam when a lot of people came up to talk to us in English.
Two days left, will see if my attitude changes. I mean it is wonderful walking around town, but there is a lot to see...but not a lot to do! So far San Miguel seems like endless streets of doors. Really fancy doors, and probably super cool spaces behind them but we are on the street trying to see in.
Oct 22nd, 2021, 08:25 PM
#65
T, I'm gonna give you a couple of unsolicited restaurant suggestions. First, near the Mirador where the tram stopped. Los Milagros Terraza. Best restaurant view of the city. Awesome molcajetes. Average to bad live music, but the molcajetes and the views are second to none. Second, a taxi ride a bit out of town to Al Rojo Vivo. It's set in an old hacienda, that of La Condesa De Canal, for whom calle Canal is named after, the street where Starbucks is located. Best burgers, steaks & margaritas in town. Lush, charming colonial setting where few tourists get to.
Breakfast, either La Lavanda or Parroquia.
Mama Mia's for the only locally brewed beer on tap. On Hernandez Macias. They have a beautiful place out in Atotonilco too.
Regarding those townhouse developments you saw, indeed they are a plague. I recently read where construction for some 10,000 or more (potentially) residents was due to such developments in the last 4-5 years. The vast majority are owned by non-residents from CDMX, Queretaro, Celaya and the like, very few by foreigners. In fact, we rent in one such development on the highway to Queretaro. I'd say that 80-90% of the owners here are from out of town and aren't here full-time with some renting there units on air bnb. Many remain unsold and vacant. A couple have been shut down for lack of permits or taxes.
Breakfast, either La Lavanda or Parroquia.
Mama Mia's for the only locally brewed beer on tap. On Hernandez Macias. They have a beautiful place out in Atotonilco too.
Regarding those townhouse developments you saw, indeed they are a plague. I recently read where construction for some 10,000 or more (potentially) residents was due to such developments in the last 4-5 years. The vast majority are owned by non-residents from CDMX, Queretaro, Celaya and the like, very few by foreigners. In fact, we rent in one such development on the highway to Queretaro. I'd say that 80-90% of the owners here are from out of town and aren't here full-time with some renting there units on air bnb. Many remain unsold and vacant. A couple have been shut down for lack of permits or taxes.
Last edited by baldone; Oct 22nd, 2021 at 08:31 PM.
Oct 23rd, 2021, 12:04 AM
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"San Miguel de Allende - Ok, we've been here for two days now and so far it is our least favorite city on our trip. " That was exactly our opinion when we were there. We did find it to be crowded with expats - walking into most bars and restaurants and few Mexicans to be seen. Nothing wrong with the place and I can see the attraction for expats, reminded us of Cuenca that other expat haven in Ecuador.
Oct 23rd, 2021, 01:43 PM
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Baldone - Thanks for the food suggestions. So far, all of the food here has been excellent, well prepared, delivered surprisingly quickly with nice portions and taste. We had a croissant sandwich at El Petit Four Patisserie today and it was probably the most delicious croissant I have had, and that includes Paris. Surprisingly small number of Mom and Pop stores selling fruit, veggies, etc. I realize it's because we are in Centro. Had beer at Mama Mia's and it was quite a happening scene, given that it was only about 10PM. Pretty young crowd I felt like a fish out of a retirement home, although everyone was nice!
Oct 23rd, 2021, 01:54 PM
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Crellston - Today, Saturday, we saw more gringos out and about. Fun thing today was all of the weddings. They do know how to throw a nuptial here. Love seeing the old cars, decorated with flowers, in front of the Church. In Queretaro we saw a vintage Carman Ghia convertible. Got a little out of the Centro today and had a real nice walk down less crowded streets. It really is a pretty town, and you know that it is historic but that doesn't seem to be embraced here like in Guanajuato, el Pipila, Alhondiga and Queretaro with the Hill of the Bells.
We have been following the maps in the Walking and Shopping Guide, the 7 guided maps are helpful but every destination on the map is a Must See jewelry store, clothes store or food destination. If I see one more outfit in the window of tan slacks, white shirt and those long "butt-hider" sweaters, with a Zorro hat, I'm going in with my sword and I'm going to Z someone!
We have been following the maps in the Walking and Shopping Guide, the 7 guided maps are helpful but every destination on the map is a Must See jewelry store, clothes store or food destination. If I see one more outfit in the window of tan slacks, white shirt and those long "butt-hider" sweaters, with a Zorro hat, I'm going in with my sword and I'm going to Z someone!
Oct 24th, 2021, 06:45 AM
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We have now spent 4 days in San Miguel de Allende and I must admit I can see the charm of living here. Why not, it has great restaurants, plenty of drinking establishments and the streets are straight and "griddy" even if pretty hilly. We just don't seem to stumble on to a unexpected little plaza as in Guanajuato or even Queretaro. I also can see the attraction of this being a go to party place. The loud group of Nationals staying at our hotel our hotel are from Guadalajara and are here for a big college reunion. They are probably all doctors, dentists, lawyers having a blast in San Miguel. Also in general we have, as mentioned, found the people to be really nice.
Last night was a big blowout for us. We went to El Manatial to see the bass player's band I met earlier in the week. He said they start at 8PM, which again means 9PM. Got there at 8PM, ate and waited until they drifted in at 8:45, but when they started playing, guitar, bass and drums it was fantastic. Only stayed for one set because we ran into Andreas early today, a street musician who serenaded us with John Lennon's Working Class Hero at La Sacristia the other morning and his band was playing at La Adelita's on Umaran. Walked down past the Jardin, down Umaran and peaked into the door, but it was a fairly packed little bar, no music. A friendly doorman came up and I said, " Tiene, usted la musica?", He replied, "en la trastienda", in the back! He ushered us to the back room which looked like someone's downstairs rec room. Couches around the sides, random chairs, a few tables and the band. Andreas, flute player and upright bassist. Another one of those travel memories. We asked to share a young woman's couch, and she happily welcomed us. It was quite a mixed crowd, various ages, some young Mexicans, some older gringos. Everyone was drinking out of quart bottles of beer. My wife said this reminded her of old black and white photos of our parents, when we were kids...the fifties...and they would get together in a basement and drink and smoke and laugh. It was so much relaxing and enjoyable and as different a place as the bar at La Manatial, which calls itself a Gourmet Cantina. ( The tostadas were really good there)
So we have a new found appreciation for San Miguel de Allende, I think you have to dig a little deeper here, to get past the endless doors and shops and Havana cigar stores to find it, but the real San Miguel is pretty alive and a lot of fun.
Last night was a big blowout for us. We went to El Manatial to see the bass player's band I met earlier in the week. He said they start at 8PM, which again means 9PM. Got there at 8PM, ate and waited until they drifted in at 8:45, but when they started playing, guitar, bass and drums it was fantastic. Only stayed for one set because we ran into Andreas early today, a street musician who serenaded us with John Lennon's Working Class Hero at La Sacristia the other morning and his band was playing at La Adelita's on Umaran. Walked down past the Jardin, down Umaran and peaked into the door, but it was a fairly packed little bar, no music. A friendly doorman came up and I said, " Tiene, usted la musica?", He replied, "en la trastienda", in the back! He ushered us to the back room which looked like someone's downstairs rec room. Couches around the sides, random chairs, a few tables and the band. Andreas, flute player and upright bassist. Another one of those travel memories. We asked to share a young woman's couch, and she happily welcomed us. It was quite a mixed crowd, various ages, some young Mexicans, some older gringos. Everyone was drinking out of quart bottles of beer. My wife said this reminded her of old black and white photos of our parents, when we were kids...the fifties...and they would get together in a basement and drink and smoke and laugh. It was so much relaxing and enjoyable and as different a place as the bar at La Manatial, which calls itself a Gourmet Cantina. ( The tostadas were really good there)
So we have a new found appreciation for San Miguel de Allende, I think you have to dig a little deeper here, to get past the endless doors and shops and Havana cigar stores to find it, but the real San Miguel is pretty alive and a lot of fun.
Oct 25th, 2021, 05:32 PM
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Last day in San Miguel and boy did we dig a little deeper, a canyon actually. We took a taxi to El Charco del Ingenio. WOW, this is a must see if you have any time in San Miguel I insist you go there. It is a large botanical garden outside of town on 200 acres. I think it is part of an old mill site, hence the Ingenio, engineer part. As with most things the mix of nature and local culture is the best. They had an exhibit on the local plants but they have created these great pieces of art buy arranging the vegetation in various patterns. Hard to explain but beautiful. The buildings are done with the most care to the environment and mix in with the perfect selection of stone and design. Lots of paths to wander around and a lake / large pond to walk around and toward the end you walk along the canyon. Perfect day for it, warm but sometimes clouds to block out the sun for a cooling effect. Must have stayed 3 hours or more. What a wonderful diversion from the bustle of Centro San Miguel. It is out of town though. I had a plan to get back to town, we are going to hitchhike! Just like in our hippie days. Truth be told we both look more hippie now than in the 60's. Wife's a little unsure about the idea but I tell her to hide her chainsaw and stick out my thumb. Very first car picks us up. A young doctor with his wife and two daughters, 1 and 8 maybe. We talk our jibber jabber that passes for Spanish and they deliver us to Centro, no one got hurt!
Now we are hungry. There is a place right on Zacateros called Mercado Del Carmen. It is kind of a food court, if you enter on Zacateros you have to walk to the back past a few places up front, if entered from Pila Seca you walk right into the food court. So, long communal benches and tables surrounded by all of these different restaurants / stalls. But here is the kicker, when you sit down, all of the waiters from all of the stalls bring their menus to your table. They kind of descend on you in a very casual way, no hard sell, but we're Romero's over there, Mexican and tapas from Spain, Asian place, hamburgers what ever. We reviewed the menus, ordered drinks from the bar, Then ordered Gyozas, Chile Nogana, Bruschetta, all from different vendors. Then when it's clear we are done, one of the waiters picks up the menus and delivers them back to the other vendors and the food was great. Such a unique way to present the food court concept.
In fact it was far more fun then our experience at Zumo tonite, which would be the most expensive meal on our three week trip so far and some of the worst service. I don't want to go into too much detail, but Anthony Bourdain once wrote, never go to a nice restaurant on Sunday, the chef and the best waiters are off after Saturday and we definitely had a second string waiter. I wish him luck. The food was outstanding, but they really failed the service test. Very seat of their pants although they did comp us an excellent appetizer because someone screwed up the timing of our meal and two parties who came in after us got their meals first.
No big deal but it did clarify our long standing belief that we will enjoy good food if paired with excellent service, but great food without excellent service diminishes the experience!
Now we are hungry. There is a place right on Zacateros called Mercado Del Carmen. It is kind of a food court, if you enter on Zacateros you have to walk to the back past a few places up front, if entered from Pila Seca you walk right into the food court. So, long communal benches and tables surrounded by all of these different restaurants / stalls. But here is the kicker, when you sit down, all of the waiters from all of the stalls bring their menus to your table. They kind of descend on you in a very casual way, no hard sell, but we're Romero's over there, Mexican and tapas from Spain, Asian place, hamburgers what ever. We reviewed the menus, ordered drinks from the bar, Then ordered Gyozas, Chile Nogana, Bruschetta, all from different vendors. Then when it's clear we are done, one of the waiters picks up the menus and delivers them back to the other vendors and the food was great. Such a unique way to present the food court concept.
In fact it was far more fun then our experience at Zumo tonite, which would be the most expensive meal on our three week trip so far and some of the worst service. I don't want to go into too much detail, but Anthony Bourdain once wrote, never go to a nice restaurant on Sunday, the chef and the best waiters are off after Saturday and we definitely had a second string waiter. I wish him luck. The food was outstanding, but they really failed the service test. Very seat of their pants although they did comp us an excellent appetizer because someone screwed up the timing of our meal and two parties who came in after us got their meals first.
No big deal but it did clarify our long standing belief that we will enjoy good food if paired with excellent service, but great food without excellent service diminishes the experience!
Last edited by Tdiddy12; Oct 25th, 2021 at 05:37 PM.
Oct 25th, 2021, 07:29 PM
#72
Sometimes when we get bored walking our neighborhood we'll go to the Charco. One of the better views of the city. You probably saw a couple more of the condo developments that are springing up everywhere. We like Mercado Del Carmen as well, but haven't been there since the pandemia. Never been to Zumo, but agree with your philosophy about service/food.
San Miguel indeed has an active live music scene pretty much any night of the week, somewhere. When we first moved here, Doc Sevrerinsen, who had a home here, (maybe still does?) would do an occasional show in a small club with a couple of local artists he 'discovered', Gil Gutierrez & Pedro Cartas. He later did a couple recordings and tours with them. I think he's got to be in his 90's now?
And once again, your timing appears fortuitous? By the time you get to Zihua, Rick will have passed and hopefully not have left too much fallout in his wake.
San Miguel indeed has an active live music scene pretty much any night of the week, somewhere. When we first moved here, Doc Sevrerinsen, who had a home here, (maybe still does?) would do an occasional show in a small club with a couple of local artists he 'discovered', Gil Gutierrez & Pedro Cartas. He later did a couple recordings and tours with them. I think he's got to be in his 90's now?
And once again, your timing appears fortuitous? By the time you get to Zihua, Rick will have passed and hopefully not have left too much fallout in his wake.
Last edited by baldone; Oct 25th, 2021 at 07:41 PM.
Oct 26th, 2021, 12:16 PM
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baldone - Crazy thing is we almost missed the Mirador over the city because we started to turn left, but then saw on a faded rock, Mirador. Glad we didn't miss it because it was a spectacular view of the city. We knew Doc Severinsen lived here because we go to church with his daughter! We've met him a couple of times with her. Yeah it seems like we have dodged Rick, as I type my wife is reading about some of the roofs that have been lost in Zihua, a restaurant we like to go to etc.
Oct 26th, 2021, 06:27 PM
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MORELIA - The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
The Good - We have a pleasant bus ride from San Miguel to Morelia. This time we took Primera Plus which are not as comfy as ETN but the bus did leave right on the dot. Last time we traveled to Morelia from Mexico City, this time almost straight south. Through Celaya and Salamanca. For those of you familiar with Breaking Bad you may remember Hector Salamanca. So every time we see a sign for Salamanca we scream. Kind of freaks out the rest of the people on the bus. After Salamanca the terrain is very beautiful, kind of a savannah in Africa meets cactus. We go through the mountains and then drive between both halves of Lago de Cuitzen. This is a great road trip.
So I'm trying to evaluate Morelia in light of our recents stays in Queretaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel...and I think Morelia might win! It has a lot of the charm of San Miguel, it's smaller with much larger sidewalks so easier to get around. More really nice plazas like QTO and GTO, plus tons of churchs. Also there are a number of really decent museums. Last time we were here it was Christmas so now we get to see the Plaza de Armas in a different season and it is very well manicured, they are putting up chrysanthemums every where for Dias de Las Muertes.
It rained a lot of the way here and it was quite cold when we got here, but today we woke up to sunshine and a lot warmer temperatures. This morning we had one of those magic moments of traveling. After breakfast I went for a little walk on one of the back streets and came across Teatro Ocampo. It was closed last time. Door is open so I snoop, lobby is open and I'm looking through an open gate to the theater, wondering if I should go in, when a man comes up and says come on in. I go in, and the symphony is practicing an opera with about 8 singers! There is no one else in this old theater except me and the symphony and the fat lady, who really wasn't fat at all. I'm just shaking my head in disbelief, the guy said they will practice until about 11:30, so I run back to the hotel, grab the wife and we sit and listen to opera for the next hour. It truly was one of those moments. Great way to start a sunny day of exploring Morelia!
The Good - We have a pleasant bus ride from San Miguel to Morelia. This time we took Primera Plus which are not as comfy as ETN but the bus did leave right on the dot. Last time we traveled to Morelia from Mexico City, this time almost straight south. Through Celaya and Salamanca. For those of you familiar with Breaking Bad you may remember Hector Salamanca. So every time we see a sign for Salamanca we scream. Kind of freaks out the rest of the people on the bus. After Salamanca the terrain is very beautiful, kind of a savannah in Africa meets cactus. We go through the mountains and then drive between both halves of Lago de Cuitzen. This is a great road trip.
So I'm trying to evaluate Morelia in light of our recents stays in Queretaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel...and I think Morelia might win! It has a lot of the charm of San Miguel, it's smaller with much larger sidewalks so easier to get around. More really nice plazas like QTO and GTO, plus tons of churchs. Also there are a number of really decent museums. Last time we were here it was Christmas so now we get to see the Plaza de Armas in a different season and it is very well manicured, they are putting up chrysanthemums every where for Dias de Las Muertes.
It rained a lot of the way here and it was quite cold when we got here, but today we woke up to sunshine and a lot warmer temperatures. This morning we had one of those magic moments of traveling. After breakfast I went for a little walk on one of the back streets and came across Teatro Ocampo. It was closed last time. Door is open so I snoop, lobby is open and I'm looking through an open gate to the theater, wondering if I should go in, when a man comes up and says come on in. I go in, and the symphony is practicing an opera with about 8 singers! There is no one else in this old theater except me and the symphony and the fat lady, who really wasn't fat at all. I'm just shaking my head in disbelief, the guy said they will practice until about 11:30, so I run back to the hotel, grab the wife and we sit and listen to opera for the next hour. It truly was one of those moments. Great way to start a sunny day of exploring Morelia!
Oct 26th, 2021, 06:52 PM
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MORELIA - The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
The Bad - Our hotel. Last time we stayed at Hotel Casino Morelia, right across from the Plaza de Armas, charming old place, great breakfast, nice people, fairly big room. This time I have booked Hotel Mision Catedral, right next store. It looked newer and I thought something different. Arrive from the bus station in a taxi, lug all of stuff inside and there is a very harried looking young woman behind the desk. I say Hola, Estamos Terry y Elizabeth and give her my booking confirmation from Booking.com. This woman stares at it like it's a Mayan Codice. It's like she's never seen anything like it. Literally looks at for 5 minutes then says, " Check in is at 3:00PM, we can store your bags" and rings for the bell hop. I look at my phone and it is 2:57PM, I'm not lying. can't I just wait...three minutes. She shrugs. She is just staring at this computer and is completely frazzled. I ask if we have a room booked here, but she hasn't cracked the intricate Booking paper. Then I notice there are three other groups standing around waiting to check in and she won't look anyone in the eye.
There is a man behind the counter and he comes out to us and says, "please, give me a minute, we are having problems with the rooms getting cleaned". OK I get that. So we sit on the couch and wait...and wait...and wait for an hour. Ms. Harried refuses even to look at us, I swear she stares at the computer and shakes her head for a whole hour. Finally around 4:00PM there is a shift change and two other women show up. The guy meanwhile has high tailed it a good half hour ago. I go up to the desk and say,'Quien es el jefa aqui!" because nothing puts the fear of God into people like third grade Spanish. One of the woman asks my name and hands me a key!! I have no clue how long my room may have been actually been ready.
The lobby bathroom is filthy and has been out of toilet paper for two days. I mean this is the first thing that should get checked in the morning, right, it kind of represents your hotel.
Tiny room, the kind you have to step in the hall to change your mind. It's clean though. Next morning we go to breakfast. Now the pictures show a great rooftop restaurant and I have visions of looking over the span of Morelia, but breakfast is actually served in this dungeon like room off the lobby. We go in and there is no one there eventually some guy shows up and asks if we want breakfast. Says his name is Frankensteen not stein. Average breakfast, weird tasting coffee. Anyways, we are here, we don't spend that much time in the room but there are so many other places to stay in Morelia, next time I will do more research.
The Bad - Our hotel. Last time we stayed at Hotel Casino Morelia, right across from the Plaza de Armas, charming old place, great breakfast, nice people, fairly big room. This time I have booked Hotel Mision Catedral, right next store. It looked newer and I thought something different. Arrive from the bus station in a taxi, lug all of stuff inside and there is a very harried looking young woman behind the desk. I say Hola, Estamos Terry y Elizabeth and give her my booking confirmation from Booking.com. This woman stares at it like it's a Mayan Codice. It's like she's never seen anything like it. Literally looks at for 5 minutes then says, " Check in is at 3:00PM, we can store your bags" and rings for the bell hop. I look at my phone and it is 2:57PM, I'm not lying. can't I just wait...three minutes. She shrugs. She is just staring at this computer and is completely frazzled. I ask if we have a room booked here, but she hasn't cracked the intricate Booking paper. Then I notice there are three other groups standing around waiting to check in and she won't look anyone in the eye.
There is a man behind the counter and he comes out to us and says, "please, give me a minute, we are having problems with the rooms getting cleaned". OK I get that. So we sit on the couch and wait...and wait...and wait for an hour. Ms. Harried refuses even to look at us, I swear she stares at the computer and shakes her head for a whole hour. Finally around 4:00PM there is a shift change and two other women show up. The guy meanwhile has high tailed it a good half hour ago. I go up to the desk and say,'Quien es el jefa aqui!" because nothing puts the fear of God into people like third grade Spanish. One of the woman asks my name and hands me a key!! I have no clue how long my room may have been actually been ready.
The lobby bathroom is filthy and has been out of toilet paper for two days. I mean this is the first thing that should get checked in the morning, right, it kind of represents your hotel.
Tiny room, the kind you have to step in the hall to change your mind. It's clean though. Next morning we go to breakfast. Now the pictures show a great rooftop restaurant and I have visions of looking over the span of Morelia, but breakfast is actually served in this dungeon like room off the lobby. We go in and there is no one there eventually some guy shows up and asks if we want breakfast. Says his name is Frankensteen not stein. Average breakfast, weird tasting coffee. Anyways, we are here, we don't spend that much time in the room but there are so many other places to stay in Morelia, next time I will do more research.
Last edited by Tdiddy12; Oct 26th, 2021 at 06:56 PM.
Oct 26th, 2021, 08:05 PM
#76
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MORELIA - The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
The Ugly - This is the hardest post to write. Morelia has been overtaken by graffiti. It is everywhere. We were here two years ago and there was very little graffiti but now it is rampant all down Francisco Madero, the Main Street past the Cathedral. There is even a little graffiti on the stone border of the Cathedral. It's also on the back streets. One building, I believe the Palacio Federal is completely painted with splashed red paint as high up as 10 feet. All kinds of statements on the walls. There are banners that have been hung on the building and it looks like you can't go through the front door anymore. Lot's of the number 43 spray painted everywhere, which I believe has to do with the 43 students that were abducted. I guess it's coming up on the 10th anniversary. The other thing is Cheran Vive, which I believe is a small town that kicked out the cartels. What's really upsetting is that this is a Unesco World Heritage site, and they have desecrated it in my opinion. No amount of spray paint is going to change anything in Mexico. The worst is that it is so bad, just scribbles, this is the land of Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros. These guys invented painting on walls and making statements, I've seen artful graffiti in Los Angeles but this of course is based on anger. It's very disappointing. I don't think they will be able to clean the Federal building.
The Ugly - This is the hardest post to write. Morelia has been overtaken by graffiti. It is everywhere. We were here two years ago and there was very little graffiti but now it is rampant all down Francisco Madero, the Main Street past the Cathedral. There is even a little graffiti on the stone border of the Cathedral. It's also on the back streets. One building, I believe the Palacio Federal is completely painted with splashed red paint as high up as 10 feet. All kinds of statements on the walls. There are banners that have been hung on the building and it looks like you can't go through the front door anymore. Lot's of the number 43 spray painted everywhere, which I believe has to do with the 43 students that were abducted. I guess it's coming up on the 10th anniversary. The other thing is Cheran Vive, which I believe is a small town that kicked out the cartels. What's really upsetting is that this is a Unesco World Heritage site, and they have desecrated it in my opinion. No amount of spray paint is going to change anything in Mexico. The worst is that it is so bad, just scribbles, this is the land of Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros. These guys invented painting on walls and making statements, I've seen artful graffiti in Los Angeles but this of course is based on anger. It's very disappointing. I don't think they will be able to clean the Federal building.
Oct 27th, 2021, 06:51 PM
#77
I had read where the 43 normalistas were murdered because they unknowningly (and unluckily) hijacked a bus that was carrying drugs of one of the cartels; I forget which. So said cartel took care of business as cartels are wont to do. Don't know if that's accurate or not; sounds plausible. Graffiti wise, a similar thing happened in Oaxaca. Protesting teachers occupied the Zócalo and spray painted the presidencia. The graffiti couldn't be removed, so a paint that closely matched the green cantera was used to cover up the graffiti. More than once. Probably will be the solution in Morelia, sadly.
We've stayed at Casino as well, as well as a handful of other hotels. It's kinda been a crap shoot. We like the restaurant at Casino, Lu, however. If you get the chance, try to get some coffee at La Lucha, @ Bartolome de Las Casas #305. It's the only retail place in Mexico I know of that sells Michoacan coffee, besides their Uruapan stores. Take a kilo or 2 to Zihua.
I'm curious as to how full Lago de Cuitzeo looked. It's been affected by drought recently, but hopefully the rains this year replenished it to a good degree.
Last, when I logged on to Fodor's, the message was Welcome, Fra Diavolo?
Saludos, baldone
We've stayed at Casino as well, as well as a handful of other hotels. It's kinda been a crap shoot. We like the restaurant at Casino, Lu, however. If you get the chance, try to get some coffee at La Lucha, @ Bartolome de Las Casas #305. It's the only retail place in Mexico I know of that sells Michoacan coffee, besides their Uruapan stores. Take a kilo or 2 to Zihua.
I'm curious as to how full Lago de Cuitzeo looked. It's been affected by drought recently, but hopefully the rains this year replenished it to a good degree.
Last, when I logged on to Fodor's, the message was Welcome, Fra Diavolo?
Saludos, baldone
Oct 27th, 2021, 07:47 PM
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Baldone - I think you have the story correct on the 43, that's what we have learned. Also I have heard that there was a lot of protest centering around abortion, and that's the other reason the Palacial Judicial was covered. I'm hoping they can do something because it looks horrible. Had dinner at the Lu the first night we got in. Last time we ate I think 2 or 3 meals there, great restaurant and actually highly rated. Coffee at La Lucha, got it. Two years ago, per your recommendation we bought a kilo and carried it around for about 2 months! Lago Cuitzen looked pretty high. You could see a lot of vegetation that was under or close to under water. The Charco lake actually had a lot of water in it. You have obviously driven it but I really liked the drive from San Miguel. After Salamanca that is! Scream!
Oct 27th, 2021, 09:48 PM
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Shame to hear of the grafitti in Morelia. A beautiful city and one of our favs in Mexico . We were there just before Christmas and the street theatre in the evening , the decorations etc were wonderful. Wished we had stayed there rather than moving on to Guadalajara.
good to know you encountered the ex pat community in SMdeA. I thought maybe it was just me bu5 I do recall walking into one bar there for an evening drink and being surround by men in blue button downs and beige chinos - it was like being back at work on dress down Friday!
good to know you encountered the ex pat community in SMdeA. I thought maybe it was just me bu5 I do recall walking into one bar there for an evening drink and being surround by men in blue button downs and beige chinos - it was like being back at work on dress down Friday!
