Trip to Nicaragua - Granada & Morgan's Rock

Old Nov 10th, 2007, 03:43 PM
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Trip to Nicaragua - Granada & Morgan's Rock

Better jot down my thoughts before I forget too much:

Flew down to Managua on Oct 25th on AA. Had arranged with Rodolfo at Oro Travel to have a driver pick me
up and take me for the 45 minute ride to Granada. Our flight was slightly delayed and I delayed even furtherby taking forever to recognize my suitcase, but Mario was waiting patiently. The airport itself is very small, pretty modern and immigration was quick - have $5 on hand for some kind of entry tax.

The drive to Granada is pretty short but the last 20 minutes or so outside the historical center of Granada are pretty bad - huge pot holes are everywhere making swerving part of the ride. Old US yellow school buses are everywhere,
they are used here until they die I guess. Check in at Casa San Francisco was quick and taken to my room, #4, by the very helpful Carlos. Nice room with a/c, shower, tv and a sweet little balcony. Oro Travel is coveniently located literally next door, so Julio were soon on our way for a 3 hour or so tour of the city, starting off of course with the horse carriage ride. This ended at the fort and we walked the rest of the way, here and there stopping at a couple churches, the plaza & park, a couple hotels just to check them out (the lobby at Patio el Malinche is lovely) and just basically chatting and wandering. Dinner was at the hotel - excellent, ended up about $15. It was Aleiman's (spelling?) first
day working at the restaurant and he was sweet and eager to please and practice his english.

Early breakfast, which is great & included, with the parrots and toucans. The gallo pinto is different than in CR, they
use red beans not black, and less seasonings - no cilantro. Off at 8am with a big group of Dutch tourists to Mombacho. The Mercedes-Benz truck they use to transport you up the steep 30 minute or so climb is a work of art. A quick talk at the visitor center then you are free to walk the path that takes about an hour or so, I opted out of the Puma trail which is much more taxing. The walk is a treat with howler monkeys in the distance, wispy clouds floating by you and a noticable lack of bugs, which is always an added bonus. The trails are well maintained and except for a brief stretch at the end, very easy. You can see Granada & the Isletas from a mirador, unfortunately the clouds though thin and moving were mostly in our way. You can grab a soda or water in the visitors center and if you are so moved, experience
the organic outhouse. About halfway down you stop at a place to get a sample of Cafe Las Flores coffee. Note, if you like the candles they have, buy them there - I thought the $6 for a small candle was pretty steep but they were much higher everywhere else I saw them, though the coffee ran about the same - $6 per bag. Afternoon I was picked up by the other Julio from Oro and we went on a 90 minute boat tour of the isletas, 'captained' by a kid who couldn't of been much older than 14. The weather was beautiful and it was interesting seeing monkey island, though you can tell unfortunately they must
be used to being given handouts. I was a little surprised to see so many power lines, but I guess if you can spend a million on an island anthing is possible. The people who own Flor de Cana own a lovely little island with some nice houses on it, but most of the larger homes I felt were pretty ugly. There was one which looked Chinese, another that looked transported from Aspen - it just looked like a lot of people with money who wanted their island home to look exactly like something
in the US. Overall it's a nice tour that I feel is fine for the 90 minutes, I don't think I would've cared for the 3 hour one. Walked
around to the central plaza area to use an internet cafe, very cheap although there was a huge gathering right outside celebrating
some chicken fast food place - replete with huge chicken costumes, balloons and just about anything else that they could throw
in. I did get several looks, sometimes people would nudge someone next to them. No idea if this was I'm a fairly tall female on
my own or what, they weren't hostile but I did feel as if I had a third eye or something. Had a visitor which was great - Philip, the biologist from Bosque del Cabo lives in Granada with his family and we went out to the central Plaza for coffee & chat. There
always seems to be something going on in Granada and tonight was no exception - we had a huge fireworks display. Unlike in the
US where the displays are far away from spectators, this one seemed to be coming from a couple blocks away - and probably was, it
was so close and bright it was almost hard to look at. Dinner was across the street at La Hacienda, great fast service with Mexican
style food - I was tickled pink when my bill came to only $5.25 for a drink, an appetizer and an entree.

Another early breakfast, had a chat with one of the owners, Terry. Very interesting lady who has traveled more countries than
I can imagine. Gave me some nice tips and told me about the various birds & turtles that make CSF their home. Off at 8:30 to San Juan del Oriente, Catarina & Masaya with both of the Julio's this time. Visited a pottery makers house where they make everything on site, they show you the whole process. Bought a lovely vase for a mere $7, she was a little short on change for my USD and though I said it didn't matter she insisted on giving me another small vase in exchange. Off to a plant farm in Catarina (nice but could've passed on this) and the Apoyo Lagoon with great views, then on to the Masaya market. Great place to get tons
of souvenirs but after a while all the stuff is the same and it's definitely geared stictly for tourists. Did buy some beatiful wooden boxes for 90 cordobas, about $5. We also went by several shops not at the market looking for a mosquito net for me to take to Morgan's Rock. Finally found one for a mere $10 though the saleslady was a little distressed I did not want to take the ring with me. Lunch was at a place overlooking the lagoon then we were off to Masaya volcano. It's incredible that there is wildlife here at all, the whole place had a dry barren look to it - from the fumes constantly coming from the crater. I didn't find them too noxious and it was incredible to look down into that awful crater where they used to sacrifice virgins. Leaving Masaya we were stuck behind a schoolbus of kids on a fieldtrip.
One of them must've seen me smoking outside the visitor center as he mimed smoking and then shot the bird. He couldn't have been more than 5. It made me feel a little odd, mainly as I've no idea what brought it on, other than I'm quite obviously a 'gringo'. Had dinner at El Zaguan which was good though I was pretty put off by the rather hostile server I had. Another server filled in here and there and he was very nice so I don't know exactly what this guy had against me but it was a little off putting. Walked back the 3-4 blocks to CSF, the only time I'd really been away alone at night
and was fine, though someone did call out 'hola' to me from a doorway and then something else, which maybe it was good I don't have
the best spanish skills as I've no idea what he said but it got a chuckle from his friend.

Morgan's Rock was to pick me up at 10am, so I had another early breakfast then wandered around town for some last pictures. Let me tell you now, if you want Che Guevera memorabilia, Nicaragua is your place - postcards, mugs, tshirts, anything and everything, I've never seen so much
Che stuff anywhere - can only wonder what he would make of all these people raking it in using his likeness. After pics I also went in search of a farmacia, I inanely had a temp crown put in right before leaving the US and it was starting to hurt in a way no Advil could touch. Terry at CSF had told me they can presecribe just about anything there. Found one right by the hotel and gave up any attempt at trying spanish for this one....I pointed to my tooth and said 'Ow!' and she quite easily got the point. Bought 10 of something for $10 and they sure did help, she
made sure I understood to only take them 8 hours apart and to eat first. Sometimes you just have to rely on the kindnes of others and someone else knowing what they're doing. Morgan's Rock coming soon........
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Old Nov 10th, 2007, 05:02 PM
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Tully,
Really enjoying your trip report. I love hearing your thoughts and views. We didn't really care for El Zaguan ourselves. I was really looking forward to it as some of the locals said it was excellent and it got good reviews on the different sites. Maybe I was just spoiled by the wonderful food at Casa San Fran.
We didn't notice any of the strange looks that you got but maybe it was because we were a group of four and you were a single woman.
Sounds like you had an awesome trip.
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Old Nov 10th, 2007, 05:45 PM
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Nice report tully.

I could identify with much of what you reported.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Were you tempted to buy a hammock at the Masaya Market !!!, they all look so pretty and you have the climate for using it year round .

Percy
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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 08:52 AM
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Thanks for the report, and for sharing your awesome pictures. We're doing a family trip (ourselves and our two 20-something sons, with their partners)to Nicaragua for 2 weeks starting Dec. 22, so it's great to hear your perspective and comments. Nicaragua definitely isn't the "hot board" here on Fodor's!

Interesting about El Zaguan -- it's so highly recommended by others. I'm sure we'll eat there anyway, but my expectations will be lower than they had been.

Just curious -- what innoculations did you get before your trip, if any?

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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 09:02 AM
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I didn't get any new innoculations for our trip but I have had both hepatitis a/b vaccines.
Yes, I was surprised about El Zaguan myself. Maybe they were just having a bad night. The resturant at Cafe San Francisco is wonderful. We only had six nights so I can just imagine how much fun you will have with two weeks.
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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 09:57 AM
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Tully, sorry to hear that your fears regarding your temp crown were realized. Glad someone was able to kindly help you out.

I'm picking up an interesting "tone" in your remarks, but can't quite put my finger on it. It just doesn't have that "pura vida" feel!

Still, sounds like you met some great people and I'm so glad you and Phillip got together. That must have been like seeing an old friend and I would think really pleasant to share a little time with him.
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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 02:49 PM
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Thanks all Percy no hammocks - though I'm surrounded by oak trees, still no where to put one up sadly.

Didn't get any jabs or take any pills, there were in fact very very few bugs at all, though I always wore bug spray to be safe. Unlike I do in CR, I also planned to drink bottled water, brush my teeth with it etc....that lasted all of about 3 hours, lol. I had a drink with ice, later brushed my teeth, belatedly remembering my plans Oh well, never got sick regardless!

Yeah I was usrprised at El Zaguan as well. The food was good, it was just the one server, all others seemed fine with me, so I don't know what it was.

shillmac, yeah there probably is...I really had a good time but it's definitely a different atmosphere/feeling than in CR, I felt very studied. I'll sum up more when I try to finish the rest hopefully tonight.

And jeez I haven't even got to the brazilian supermodels part yet, lol
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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 04:14 PM
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Tully,
I am patiently waiting to hear all about Morgans Rock and now about the super models too!
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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 04:42 PM
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Okay, onward..... Pick-up was right on time with Rene, MR's driver. We talked (a little) and played charades (a lot) to communicate. It worked.

Took about an hour from Granada to Rivas about half of that on the wonderfully smooth Pan-American Hwy), then another hour on a dirt/mud road from Rivas to MR. Not like it had been invisible before but on this last road the poverty in Nicaragua becomes very apparent, and I can't adequately express my feelings here other than to say this country deserves a better government and hopefully some aid (that goes where it is needed and not into someones
pocket). The thought that I was going to a place that costs as much per night as some people make in a year is something hard to dismiss. So....

Arrival & check-in was smooth with a quick tour of the property and then taken to my room, #3. If you go to Morgan's Rock but are worried about the steps - #3 is your room. Rooms #1 & #2 are behind the restaurant but without ocean view. Room #3 is an easy walk up low steps, across the suspension
bridge, and then a flat walk to your room, it is the lowest room available and worked fine for me. Rooms #4 & #5 are close by and not much of a walk either. A couple days later I spoke to the poor guy up in #15, I've forgotten how many steps he said it was but I know it was high - he would pack for the day in the morning so he didn't have to go up there again til night. The cabins here are lovely, so many screens to let the breeze some in, a ceiling fan that if set on high would blow my clothes about, a big shower, plenty
of storage area, a safe, futon, and the wonderful swing bed on the porch. The temp on my clock would read low 70's at night, the breeze really blows here. There are also 2 lamps by the bed, one with 3 light switches on it and the other with about 10! I could never remember which was which so I would go thru the whole retinue to get the bathroom light on or the porch light. I warned those at dinner I wasn't sending distress signals, just trying to get the darn lights on. The lodge is not completely off the grid, solar is used, but there is also a generator and I saw power lines - enough that (I didn't say this mind you) if you female
and are dying to use your hairdryer, well.....

Meals are served by table, but since it was just me and a group of 15 (more about them later) we all sat together on their invitation. You usually have to order your dinner at lunch, and often your lunch at breakfast. This is to prevent waste. Food was good, not great or gourmet but filling, often too much of a feta-like cheese was
in many dishes. All of the shrimp dishes I had there (and which are raised there on site) were wonderful. Unless you can eat a lot, I mean a lot, of food, order
half portions of everything, the normal sized plate is waaay too much food and one night after a salad I had to pass on the entree and dessert, it was that much.
Drinks, such as soda, beer and water are included, if you want they will pack a small cooler with ice and drinks for you to take to your room or to the beach.
Cocktails and such aren't inclued but were reasonable, daquiris cost about $3.50. The service is very attentive and the whole staff is very eager to make your stay a great one. Gladys, Claudia, Juan, Oscar, et al are always around to answer any question or to attend to anything you may need. There are so many people working at MR, you see only a fraction of them. I spotted the cutest little spotted skunk on right at the base of the suspension bridge my first
night - my mistake for not bringing my camera with me! You can also sign up at dinner to have a big jug of coffee delivered to your room in the morning. This was a little weird....I would specify a time, like 6:30, but often woke up at 6am. Within 5 minutes the knock would be there with the coffee, I always wondered how they knew I was up, but appreciated it nonetheless.

The tide on the beach is amazing to watch, low tide would show all kinds of beautiful huge rocks on the beach, high tide would come in loud and fill in the estuary.
Note - from room #3 the surf can be loud but it didn't bother me at all, I thought it was so nice to drift off to. The cabinitas on the beach are all very comfy, with
a hammock, swing chair and several chairs or loungers to choose from. Both on the beach and up in the rooms/ lodge there were very few insects, I always sprayed myself with bug spray but never spent much time swatting them away. I did have an incredibly yucky looking whip-tail scorpion that lived in a crack on the outside of my cabin, but luckily they don't sting and he didn't seem too concerned with me so I (mostly) ignored him. They do warn you in the welcome book about scorpions, they are not poisonous but do deliver a painful sting. Me, being paranoid about thing on me while I sleep, had bought a mosquito net in Masaya and McGyvered up something I felt comfy with. It wasn't a pretty sight, without the ring it collapsed on itself, but I had plenty of clothespins so I worked it out so I could sleep soundly. Never did see a scorpion though 2 of the others there had ones on their rooms and one on the patio area. Compared
to a place like Bosque del Cabo (which I know I shouldn't do, but...) there definitely was a lot less - of everything....flowers, trees, animals, birds, insects etc. A brief glimpse of an agouti, one of a coati, a grey squirrel, the skunk, spider monkeys in the distance, and (luckily) 2 very close encounters with troops of
howler monkeys were about it. The activities are decent at MR, but there are not tons of trails or stuff to do on your own hiking-wise. I went on the dairy farm
tour, a tour around the property, the night tour (which was amusing simply for the fact that we did not see.a.single.thing, lol) which were all included in the rate, as well
as a 90 minute horse ride which was $30. I attempted their one trail but after 15 minutes had to turn around due to it was completely underwater and I had no desire to sink in the mucky mud. I think if you like the casual pace of beach time, laying on the porch swingbed etc this place is perfect. I like that in moderation but I definitely could've used more trails and activities. It's definitely beautiful and secluded, and the service was a little reserved but very friendly with a strong
desire to please. The accomodations were outstanding and well laid out. If you're traveling with another person, hopefully you're close - there is no door between the bedroom area and bathroom, though there is a curtain you can draw. Most nights I was in bed by 8:30 or 9, though Halloween we did have quite the party and I
stayed up all the way til 10:30pm!

I've written way too much for what was to be a short report, I will finish the rest soon......
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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 07:23 PM
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So for the rest...I forgot I did see one snake right at the suspension bridge, a pretty tan colour with a black stripe down it's back. When I mentioned to the staff they were apparently familiar with the snake as it takes the bridge to cross I brought 2 flashlights with me, plus they give you one as well. From the walk from my cabin to the main lodge you hardly need it, the lights are low heighth and brightness but enough to light pretty much your whole way there. I was a little bummed I couldn't get a massage, there must be a minimum of 2 people getting a massage for her to travel to the lodge.

I did end up meeting an interesting bunch of people. They were the only other people there, a group of 15, arriving a couple hours after I did. I ended up having lunch and dinner with them by their invitation, which was nice as it felt odd sitting at a table alone the first night. Finally found out the 2nd day who they were and
what they were doing. I'm not sure if it'd be proper to just say, as they did say something along the lines of "well I guess it's all right we tell her", but I'll make it pretty easy and just say they were doing an article on the lodge to go along with all the 'swimsuit' photos they were taking. The issue comes out in Feb and it always gets tons of press so I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. (What a great thing for the ego, to be heading down to the beach and see 2 stick thin models in their bathing suits! But I will point out - they both did eat, plenty,lol and were both very sweet). We had a crazy party Halloween. One of them had
brought masks, make-up, devil headbands, witches hats, etc - definitely not expecting that but it was a blast with the ipod jamming and the staff getting into the act by switching the lights on & off like a strobe light while everyone danced. All were very nice and it was nice to have conversation at meals with such a diverse bunch of people. I'm sure it worked well for them too, instead of a couple honeymooners or something to contend with it was just me.

The drive from MR to Managua took 3 hours and was .... interesting. Again, I had that "third eye" feeling. Many trucks or cars we would be stuck behind, people
would nudge their neighbor to turn around and look at me, it was just a weird feeling. I think, as shillmac mentioned, there isn't that pura vida feeling in
Nicaragua - which is of course understandable, different country, different history, but I did feel a little bit frustrated sometimes. Which isn't to say I didn't come
across some lovely people, such as the bank guard who walked me a block to the farmacia, all of the staff at Casa San Francisco, Morgan's Rock & Oro Travel, the waitress in a fast food chicken restaurant who finally led me by hand to the restrooms (I was determined to walk into the kitchens not once, but twice) and so
on. So we arrived in the chaos that is Managua, to my hotel the Intercontinental. It was pricey for less than a 12 hour stay but worth it. They upgraded me to
the Ambassador's floor for some reason and the room was just what I needed to ease back into the real world again - bathtub, bath robe, a/c, tv, room service and the most comfy bed ever. I walked next door to the mall but really didn't see that caught my eye and just grabbed a soda. Had an awful 3:45am wake-up call for my departure from the hotel at 4:30. The ride was quick, only 15-20 minutes and was $15.00. Did go a little crazy in the duty free as I had an almost empty carry-on so I bought a few of bottles of Flor de Cana for my dad, though I had to switch it out to my checked baggage in Miami. There is a small smoking lounge/coffee bar upstairs and it was conveniently located right in front of my gate so I stayed in there until the last minute. More security here then leaving the US, my carry-on was gone thru item by item. Flight was on-time to Miami (which must be the coldest freaking airport in the US I swear), then on to Tampa. Very happy to find all the booze that I had crammed in my suitcase was all in one piece.

And that's it!

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Old Nov 12th, 2007, 07:30 PM
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Great description of Morgan's Rock, Tully. Interesting about the coffee delivery! I guess you didn't notice any hidden cameras LOL!

Waiting for Halloween tales. . .thanks for taking the time to post your adventures! I'm always amazed at your ability to get a good night's sleep. Sometimes, no matter how exhausted I am, sleep is light and fitful. The "possibility of scorpions" factor really plays havoc with my relaxation level! You seem to handle it so well--doing what you can to keep yourself protected, then off to sleep you go!
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Old Nov 13th, 2007, 03:50 AM
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What a wonderful report. I can't wait to get to Nicaragua. Maybe next year...
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Old Nov 13th, 2007, 08:27 AM
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Thanks for the details. I can picture myself there now...
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Old Nov 13th, 2007, 10:34 AM
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Thanks for posting your trip report, tully. Enjoyable reading as always. It sounds like you had a mostly good time, but I'm sorry to hear about the tooth problem. Those things can never happen at home, huh?

Interesting comments about the lack of Costa Rica's "pura vida" feel there. I agree. Nicaragua is just an "edgier" destination, and given it's history and sometimes stunted development, I suppose that's not surprising. Even though their tourism industry is making tremendous strides, it will still be quite awhile before Nicaragua offers as polished a product overall as does Costa Rica. Sometimes, Costa Rica seems a bit jaded with the whole tourism thing, so Nicaragua is exactly what I'm looking for for that reason. But it makes me appreciate Costa Rica and what it has acheived all the more.
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Old Nov 13th, 2007, 04:19 PM
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Thanks all for slogging thru that!

Jeff, yes definitely edgier, which is not a bad thing, just different than CR. I did see some, not a lot, of tourists in Granada, so I definitely was not something new. I think maybe because I'm a blonde, walking about on my own, accounted for some of the looks. It;s just a little unnerving to be so openly stared at, tbh. Like in CR, many of the first questions I was asked was where was my husband, lol. There are certainly a couple places I came across that I'd like to look into more, but for now I'm back to exploring CR.

I don't know where the thread is but am reposting the link to the pics that go with the trip report:
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Old Nov 13th, 2007, 04:20 PM
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as I forget to post the link, lol

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...s&x=0&y=gbn009
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Old Nov 14th, 2007, 04:12 AM
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shillmac - forgot to post...my ability to sleep is nothing to be admired, it's called med-i-ca-tion!! I'm sure if I was traveling with someone I would've driven them mad with all the bed checks, but then again, if I weren't alone I probably wouldn't be so paranoid!
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Old Nov 14th, 2007, 03:50 PM
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oh yeah, yeah, yeah--the luggage. I remember now!

I guess it wouldn't hurt me to do the same occasionally. I would be SO tired at Bosque del Cabo (and even free of worry with regard to critters), but then unable to sleep very soundly. Finally, someone pointed out this last time down there that perhaps I should stay away from the coffee at dinner. Well, duh!

I didn't respond on the other thread that you have going, but am so glad you are checking out Bosque de Paz. You have a really great itinerary shaping up! You are definitely hitting the highlights of the country every time you plan a visit.
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Old Dec 1st, 2007, 09:30 AM
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Good report, Tully.

As you mentioned that you've also been to Costa Rica, would be interested in your comparisons of CR versus Nicaragua.
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Old Dec 1st, 2007, 11:15 AM
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What a great report tully,
It was nice to read about other places in Nicaragua other than the place we went to in the boonies. All I got to see were naked little kids running around bopping birds to take home for dinner. Your trip sounds like a lot more fun.

I tie so many things on my suitcase to recognize it that I know nobody would even want it. They would be too embarassed to claim it.

Yes...med i ca tion is a good thing. Glad you were able to find someone to help with the tooth. Nothing worse.

I had to laugh when you mentioned the stairs. Guess those Lapa Rios/Morgans Rock people just like a lot of stairs. I can sympathize with the guy packing for the day.

Love the supermodels. Psst...are those Brazilian B lifts as good as I hear? At my age I need one.

What fun to meet up with Philip! I bring him things to give to his "daughter" when I down to Bosque del Cabo.

Interesting about the Che stuff. Strange coincidence, I was just looking at a silly Che hat with hair on the Stupid.com site.

Sounds like you saw some great things and had a pretty positive feel about the country. It will take awhile for it to catch up with CR if it ever does but hey, if all the countries where the same it wouldn't be worth going. I am looking forward to seeing more of CA knowing I will have my little warm and fuzzy place to go back to in CR. I do admire those people who keep plucking along even after so many horrible hurricanes.
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