San Blas Islands, Panama
 

I want to stay on one of the San Blas islands in Panama. Has anyone stayed there? What island did you choose? What cabanas did you stay at? How was it? How did you manage to make reservations? The information in the Lonely Planet guide is good, but outdated. Any and all information about the San Blas islands and where to stay will be really appreciated. Thanks!!

I went a couple of years ago . . . went to Wichup Walla . . . we're still laughing about it. Our island was about 6 blocks by 6 blocks, nothing to do, nothing to see . . . glad we went but would not go again.

I've typed up my travelog and will send it if you want . . . email me at [email protected].

We did have a great time in Panama!

Buen viaje,
Sandy (in Denton)

When I was 6 and 7 years old, I spent many weekends in the San Blas Islands. Dad was in the army stationed in the Canal Zone. Our maid was from the SB Islands, and we often visited her family. Things were very basic on the Islands back in the mid-1950's.

We stayed at Hotel San Blas on Nalunega. I believe this is one of the oldest hotels in San Blas, and I use the term hotel loosely. Basically, we just had thatched roof huts set up on the beach with sand floors. It was so hot inside those huts that we slept outside on hammocks!

We absolutely loved it, but everyone has a different experience. Sandy was not as crazy about it as we were (hi Sandy!) San Blas is very rustic, and there is not much to do except take boat trips around the various islands, lay in hammocks, drink beer, read, etc. Our hotel was on an island with a village, so were able to walk around the village for a bit.

We stayed 2 nights, and enjoyed it so much that we tried to stay a 3rd, but the flight from San Blas back to Panama City was already full the day we wanted to fly back.

Making reservations was difficult because I don't speak Spanish. I had a friend make the reservations for me - I believe the telephone number in the LP guide book was correct.

I posted a trip report around August, 2003 so if you scroll down you should be able to find it.

Hi Linda,
I stayed a week on Aligandi in the Fall of 1973. As I was attending a six week USN Tropical Medicine Course, I was permitted to overnight on the island "covering the hospital" for the Baptist Mission Doc who flew out in his private plane before I arrived via USAF helo and dugout.
Amazing experience in those days: anti TB treatment had been recently introduced by the current president's father and I spent one entire night treating a bunch of the Cunas who were in Columbia - smuggling who knows what - for malaria (none on the islands as they are far enough offshore the mosquitoes cannot get there).
The diving was wonderful and there were very many spiny lobsters for B'F, lunch and dinner. The Cuna women make some of the world's best bread.
I suspect things have changed, 'tho I thought Panama (city) and Colon were far better in March '03 than thirty years earlier.
It's still pretty primitive on the San Blas from what I hear.
M

I'm heading there this weekend and will let you know. I plan to post pics and a trip report. I'm also going to Chiriqui next weekend.

Casey

Just got back from San Blas this AM. Here's my trip report. You can email me for photos.

SATURDAY 4:45am -- Sapibenega Lodge
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Got up before dawn and took 6AM flight to San Blas from the Albrook domestic airport to the San Blas archipelago. It really is an archipelago (chain of islands) and we landed on about 3 of the various Kuna-run islands before arriving at the mainland nearest the docks for the Sapibenega Lodge. Total flying time (including stops) was about an hour. Wonderfully and weird to see all these traditionally dressed Kunas flyinging airplanes. They live so remote that just about everything gets flow in (mail, supplies, etc).

Kunas are the water-dwelling, indigenous tribes that inhabit San Blas. Different tribes reside on each islands and all lodges in San Blas must be owned and operated by Kunas. The downside (for some tourists) is they're all super rustic (basic). The upside is the traditional life is still very much intact there.

After getting off the plane my amiga and I walked a few meters to the very rustic docks and boarded a traditional dugout canoe to head to the mini-island that houses the Sapibenega Lodge. "Sapibe" means tree, "nega" means house. There were foreign 2 couples and a family of Panamanians on our flight, as well as a Costa Rican lady. After 10 minutes on pretty flat waters and we were at the hotel.

7:15AM
Arrived at a tiny island on turquoise waters with a very small beach on one side. The whole property is maybe 175 square meters, you can see the ocean all the way around from any point on the island. We were immediately greeted by a very, very friendly group of traditionally clad (not just for show) Kuna indians. They were far happier and hospitable than I'd been led to believe by guidebooks. We were fed breakfast (standard eggs, fruit and toast, not bad) and then checked out our cabin.

The huts are all bamboo with thatch roofs and fairly spartan. They are two rooms (with two beds) to a unit separated by pretty thin walls. The island hotel is seemingly self-sustaining. Solar panels, septic tank toilets and no hot water. The property felt very clean and natural. The rooms aren't large but I spent most of my time in the hammock on the backside of the cabin, which was about 3 feet from the water's edge. There wasn't a lot of reef there but I imagine the snorkeling would be about a B - . The visibility looked quite good.

There's only one little light bulb in each bedroom and the solar generator gets turned off early, so you get lots of sleep. I'd say Sapibenega is ideal for couples or people who are into culture and biology/nature. It takes a special kind of guest to appreciate being so "back to basics". I've never slept better and my days felt incredibly long there (in a good way). Time seemed to stand still. After one day, stress felt miles away.

10AM
During the day the hotel had planned excursions (all annoucned with a honk on the conch shell) to nearby islands for swimming, to the local Kuna cemetary and the nearby indigenous village. We did the last first and last ones that day. A 25 minute ride on pretty choppy waves brought us to another small island whose only population was a hermit/missionary and a few kids who apparently weren't his. The gent was kind enough to sell us some coconuts. We drank the milk and ate the flesh. Mmmmm.

We swam around and snorkeled and took in some sun. Totally quiet, relaxed...breezy. The picture most people paint of paradise, I think.

2PM
The ride back on the panga was rough. A few green faces upon arrival. Lunch was a fried, whole corvina (sea bass). Again, far better than I expected. After lunch we visited the local village on a more populated island. It was a little bizarre, but very interesting. They live in traditional bamboo and thatch huts and speak Kuna, sell molas and haven't changed much in the last hundred or so years. I think just about anyone over 15 could appreciate this. The only drag was I felt that the cleanliness of this particular village was suspect. Lots of kids with rashes and various minor infections b/c the island is overpopulated. Very curious is the high % of albinos there, a genetic phenomenon that I was told is being studied.

Most of the day was spent waiting to hear the conch shell announce meals. Napped, walked the 5 minute stroll around the island and read. I think this is what you're expected do at Sapibenega, I didn't mind a bit.

The weather was nice but overcast...a bit too hot but certainly live-able.

6PM
In the evening we watched a show with native kids playing simple pan-type flutes and dancing on the island's courtyard. It was short, sweet and very cute. They were thrilled with $1 tips from the crowd. After the show the audience of 12 or so guests adjourned to a banquet table on the yard where we chowed on ceviche de pulpo (honestly, the best I've had), langostinas, veggies and flan for dessert. You could pay extra for wine or liquor. The only rub: no ice in the house.

The food was exceptional and eating by torchlight as the waves crashed was something else. The guests were all super cool and we chatted until about 9pm, which feels very late on an island with minimal electricty.

Sunday, 6AM
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Sleeping was a little tough as it was darned hot there w/o AC or fans. Not as many bugs as you'd expect but I'd advise guests to bring DEET. I think it was an abnormally hot night, but everyone commented that they still slept great. Crashing waves feet from your bed will do that.

Early in the AM we had a light breakfast and departed. The tour guide, waitresses and manager were really, really nice people. We went back to the airport and flew a few islands over to Dolphin Lodge.

7AM
After a very short ride in the canoe we checked into Dolphin Lodge. The island is less remote (you can see the villagers on the neighboring island waving) and there is virtually no beach, but the weather there was nicer that day and cooler. The layout of the Dolphin Lodge is pretty similar except in place of bamboo walls you have carib-style clapboard painted burgundy. The rooms are a little larger and the bathroom more roomy. 3 beds instead of 2.

11AM
We did basically the same double tour of remote beach and local village, only this village was much more pleasant and well planned. We toured a mangrove looking for crocs (saw none) and other animals and headed home.

1PM
Exhausted from swimming against pretty strong tides we slept most the afternoon. Lunch was a huge caribbean crab called centollo served with rice and leche de coco. It was good. You'd better like seafood if you go to these places! They do offer alternatives for those who don't eat seafood.

6PM
Maybe the best meal, we had large portions of lobster with a great sauce. The chef used to work at the Marriott in P. City. Watched the sunset from the hammock and went to bed early

Monday, 5AM
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Today we did the same gig. One funny part, a Kuna slapped a 2 year old girl on my Panamanian friend's lap and was basically saying, "could you deliver this to Panama City for me?". We thought he was kidding...then he walked away. We had an annoying flight home with about 6 stops. Flying time was 1.5 hours to make a 30 minute trip. Hot. We cleared the local airport immigration, delivered the Kuna child to her rightful (we hope!) owners and were back at the apartment in P. City by 8:30am.


OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: I'm not sure if kids would have a great time marooned on these islands, but I imagine that some might. I think two nights is perfect, three nights might be pushing it. I did relax and feel fabulous after eating so well and taking in so much sun, all in slow motion. The locals were very nice, never pushy and willing to please. The guestbook at Sapibenega was overflowing with positive comments. Both lodges are very similar, hard to choose but I think maybe I preferred Sapibenega for the ambience, but Dolphin for the local culture. Food was about the same. The excursions were fun but not incredibly well-guided. Not sure if many of the guides speak English, but we can find that out. Both hotels are very small and intimate. I think they're ideal for couples or families with teenage or older kids. Although it's pretty rustic living (cold water shower, etc) you really don't notice because the common areas and nature are so beautiful. This is one of the few places in the world where one can observe a mostly unspoiled culture. That, combined with the food, weather, ocean and scenery makes it more than worth the trip. It's definitely on my short list of places to see.

Hope this was helpful!

Casey

Wow! Thank you Casey, what a fantastic report! Thank you for following up. One question, about how much did the places cost to stay, and the meals, were they included?

Thanks for the great (and detailed) review!

Casey,
Great report from a wonderful trip!
Sure takes me back more than three decades.
I spent some time with the Choco Indians in the Darien Jungle in March '03, but the San Blas and the Cunas are special memories - I have many framed "antique" molas in my MX home.
M

Glad the post was helpful. Rates for Dolphin lodge (meals and tours included) = $110-ish

Sapibenega =$110-ish

Flight on Aeroperlas (round trip) = $90

For the price, I thought it was worthwhile.

Casey