Quito and the Galapagos Dec. trip
 

Looking for suggestions! My husband and I are planning a 3-week trip for late Nov/early Dec. I'm thinking 13 days Galapagos, 6 days Quito and area, with a travel day on either end. Regarding Quito, I'm looking for recommendations on what to see and do, and where to stay. Regarding the Galapagos, I think we'd like to spend some time on a boat of some sort, and some time on an island from which we can do day trips. I'm a little afraid of seasickness, but don't really want a big ship, as we both prefer a small group experience. I'd appreciate any ideas from anyone out there. Thanks!

We spent a month in the Galapagos in Feb 2005 - one week on a cruise (the Eclipse). If you want to stay on land we're recommend Isabela for a few days - the town of Villamil is smaller than Puerto Ayora but lots of interesting things to do.

We also very much enjoyed Puerto Ayora - you might want to stay there for a few days and Isabela.

Here's a link to our blog - lots of pics of land and sea sights

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/l...gos/index.html

Thanks for the link to your blog, Elizabeth. You sound similar to my husband and me in your preference for independent travel. We also are Canadian. I'll check out the Eclipse for a week. I guess to be safe I'd need to pre-book from home, though the deal would be better from the Galapagos probably. Is there a hotel at Puerto Ayora you'd recommend? What was the name of the place you stayed at in Villamil?

In Villamil we stayed at Casa Marita

http://www.galapagosisabela.com/

There are a lot of average hotels in Puetro Ayora - and a few quite good ones.

Hotel Solymar just reopened - it was being renovated when we were there - getting good reviews on tripadvisor.com

Finch Bay Eco hotel is a short water taxi across from "downtown" Puerto Ayora - very popular

Royal Palm Resort is a 20 minute cab ride - really expensive but some people love it

Here's the trip advisor link for Santa Cruz

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g2...ds-Hotels.html

Regarding booking in advance - we saved 50% which was a great deal but we were in Puerto Ayora for 2 weeks before that particular deal came up. There is a lot of discussion about this topic on the Lonely Planet Thorntree board - some believe you get as good a deal with TAs in Quito.....

Dear Dauber2 -

Late Nov. early December is a good time for availabilities - usually considered low season, the pre-Christmas rush (busiest time in the islands - Christmas 2008 difficult to book already) is often good for price reductions on cruises - up to 20%. There are many choices of ship in the islands, from a 12 passenger to a 100 passenger, from backpackers' special (I recommend you avoid these) to ultra luxurious (don't mind spending US$4,500 per person for a 1 week cruise?). I usually recommend smaller ships - they are more versatile and, after all, what we seek in Galapagos is to experience intimacy with this remote wilderness, not jostling about a group of 60 or 100 people. There are luxury and tourist class smaller ships from which to choose. I lived in the islands from 1998-2002 and maintain close ties there.

As for Quito, you could easily spend a day on a private tour (old Quito is great - a UNESCO World Heritage City -, and there are a few great museums. Otherwise, the common thing to do is to visit the monument to the Equator (about 45 minutes out of town), or if you have a bit of time, the Otavalo market (crafts etc.. from the Otavalo indians) about 3 hours out of town. There are plenty of nice hotels, I use the "Casa Sol" www.lacasasol.com - a small, "high end backpackers'" hotel, family run, very warm spirited - simple, but well decorate.

There is also the Papallacta Hotsprings - 2 hours from the city, and the Mindo Cloud forests - another 2 hours. You'll find more info on the web.

All the best,

Heather
Victoria, BC

Just returned from eight nights in Quito. I would recommend sleeping in Old Town. Reports of "danger" in Old Town is old news, however when the sunsets it is still best to head in doors. The new government has put more police in the streets of Old Town than I have ever seen any place, anytime. The oldest street in Quito, La Ronda, had an officer at each of its three intersections, and a few (six) in the short stretches in between. Nothing could happen without the purse snatcher being apprehended.
The Posada Colonial at 1160 Garcia Moreno was very clean, hot water on command, and a two egg breakfast with toast, cheese, real fruit drink, and coffee (Nescafe like every where else). They aren't accustomed to English speaking customers, but they do their best to make you welcome and comfortable. For example: Our flight left at 10 pm (22:00) they let us stay in our room until we wanted to leave (19:00), no charge. Plus the location CAN NOT be beat for the price (30-35 USD). You are one half block off Plaza Grande.

This location is with in two blocks of three tourist info offices. The best is in the "new" build in the NE corner of Plaza Grande.

Another is across the street kitty corner, against traffic on Garcia Moreno. It is not well marked but also houses the Cafe Magnolia...Very nice and a better price than Mea Culpa. Still mainly locals so it is undiscovered. Dine inside or el fresco.

What to see? The Plazas, All are worth a visit. La Compania church, the fair trade shop at Plaza San Franciso for goods, a cappacino and a safe salad. Take a tour of the Church at San Francisco it may seem long but the guide is very informative. I appreciated his information in all the rest of my touring.

Go to the Museo del Banco Central at the Cultural Center located between Old and New town. A simple ride from old town on either the green or red line, take your pick. This museum will make you love their pottery. No exhibit is too long, and each has great pieces.

Climb the stairs in the Basilica del Voto Nacional. 10 year old kids do it, so can you.

Safe salads and good lamb in the second and third floor restaurants in the Palacio Arzobispal on the Plaza grande (Independencia). Third floor is a tiny bit more expensive than second but can be considerably warmer as heat does rise.

New mass transit is 25 cents per ride. Put your US quarter in the box before entering the glassed in loading ramp then wait for the trolley. Maps show the routes in Blue, green and red. The maps don't say it but the little symbols on them are the transit stops. Count how many before you want to get off.

And for those of you in your mid-forties up to seventy (my wife says any art lover). There is a really fine treat at the Fundacion Guayasamin (Capilla del Hombre) take a taxi, it is up hill in Bellavista Alto on Bosmediano at 543. His works are in a building behind his collections of indigenous art. You have seen his works during your "experimental" years during college. This was perhaps the high-light of my trip. You may take photoes without flash. Limited edition prints start at about $350 and go to $1100.

Take a pile of one dollar US bills with you. It doesn't hurt to take a bunch of $5 bills either. I took about 150 $1s, and 25 $5s. They lasted the eight days. Locals generally don't want traveler's checks and are completely blown away by having to make change for a ten dollar bill. Yes, it is US currency and some US coinage.

Used toilet paper goes in the garbage basket not down the drain.

We did not go to the Galapagos Islands but did take a flight ($115 round trip per person) to Cuenca. It has three GREAT markets. A meat and vegetable market indoors two blocks east of the Catedral Nueva. A second market, open air, locally useful pottery, baskets, black smithed metal, garden and cooking tools, and some furniture. It is located one block beyond Plaza Rotary. And a third market at Plaza Rotary where they sell fruit. The most colourful market and REAL of all the markets we visited. Very little buy for a tourista but the views and atmosphere are great.

In these markets keep your valuables well guarded. No wearing of jewlery.

If you like pottery there is the Edvard Vega gallerie, The gallerie is disappointingly small, but the tiles and vases make you weep at the limited carry on and security checks they would have to go through.

And if that doesn't take you to Cuenca for an over night stay, there is the Panama Hat shop on Calle Larga. Ask if you can take a photo from the upper back veranda while keeping your eyes peeled for the drying/bleaching raw hats on the roof. The prices are good. Hold hats up to light. The more expensive the hat, the fewer pin points of light that will come through the hat. You can feel the difference too.

In Cuenca we stayed at the Posada Hostal which is centrally located. It was OK but took us back to our back packing days for atmosphere ($26). On demand (constant) Hot water, continental breakfast included, safe, friendly, with English speaker behind counter....clean but well-worn.

I would warn you about the Cow foot soup. They are serious about the cow foot part. Great broth but the "meat" parts are a bit disturbing.

Leavging country be prepeare for the exit fee of nearly $40, cash. ATM is next to it.

Back in Quito, go to church on Sunday. Do your best to ignore the shoe shine boys.

enjoy.
Wayne in WI

Wayne:
Thanks so much for all the information. Just three days ago I emailed La Posada Colonial on Garcia Moreno, but so far have received no reply. Am trying to learn a little Spanish, but am not good enough to email in Spanish yet. Perhaps they're waiting for a translator to happen by?? How did you book it?

We are going to Cuenca as well, and I have a booking there. Appreciate the suggestions of things to do.

Penny in Canada

La Posada Colonial (1160 Garcia Moreno) seems to reply to email about once a week. Once they say they have a room for you, they consider it a done deal. No deposit, no credit card numbers.

I did have a Spanish teacher send a message for me, but I am not sure it was necessary.

Be patient is my advise. But send a message once a week until they respond.
wayne in WI