Quick Trip Report - Highlights of Buenos Aires and San Antonio de Areco
Jul 8th, 2008, 01:37 PM
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Quick Trip Report - Highlights of Buenos Aires and San Antonio de Areco
I am just back from a terrific trip to Argentina. Here are the highlights:
TRAVEL AGENT: I used Cintia at Wow Argentina. While not the cheapest possible, I was very satisfied with the service and the guides she arranged for me.
TOURS: Cintia arranged a full day orientation tour for which was terrific. Being totally personalized I could spend more or less time according to my whims.
A 2 hour walking tour of my neighborhood with the same guide I had for the full day. They were great to reschedule this when the original day turned out to have nasty rain and high winds. We even picked up Recoleta Cemetary from the other tour because it was pouring rain the first time we tried to go.
A five hour art tour with an art historian. We visited the NAtional Museum, MALBA and Museo Xul Solar. It was like visiting museums with a friend.
HOTELS: Cintia found the Argenta Tower for me. It was resonably priced and located one block from Plaza San Martin. It included breakfast and had free internet in the business center. Nothing deluxe, but a good value. Rooms also have a microwave, two burners, a sink and a refrigerator.
Last three nights at the Marriott Plaza on the other side of Plaza San Martin - really nice and pampering. They put Havanna candy bars or alfajores on your pillow at turn down.
DINNER SHOWS: I went to Tango Piazzolla. It was fine, but the show was 15 minuites longer than I needed it to be.
Opera Pampa was much more fun. It takes place outside (but under heaters and they give you blankets) so they have horses and a huge cast. It includes a reception with empanadas and drinks, the show, shopping in a little bazaar and a barbeque dinner. The food was good and the show really enjoyable. They give an English version of the narration out ahead of time. It's a good idea to read it so you can follow the action, but the story is very similar to the history of the US old west so even with no Spanish one would enjoy. I would suggest taking your own taxi or remise to this. I used their tranfers and they were bad - late at both ends and the driver had no idea where my hotel was. Fortunately I speak Spanish and it was at the end of my stay so I could give him directions.
FERIA MATADEROS - I went to this gaucho themed Sunday fair instead of San Telmo. I had a terrific time. It is a far out suburb so it was nice to be in normal type of neighborhood. People were very nice and the shopping was very goood with lots of cheap prices on souvenirs and hand crafts. There were folk dancers as well as music for general dancing - no tango here. I also had a great bowl of locro. Make sure you have money with you when you get there - the nearestr ATM is 6 blocks away (I shopped more than I meant to and had to find an ATM for cab fare). You can get here by bus, but cabs are cheap so I opted for that.
SHOPPING: The shopping is great and I found things very resonable. If you are a plus size woman, I can reccommend Portofem at 1129 Santa Fe. I didn't bring a sweater with me and found a great one there. The prices and service were very good. My favorite store was probably Calma Chicha (Palermo or San Telmo) or Palermo Paperia. I bought art in a great little gallery in San Telmo that shows up and coming artists called Branco espacio de arte at Defensa 1295.
FOOD: I didn't have a bad meal anywhere. My favorites were Mirasol de la Recova on Posadas near the Four Seasons hotel (in the fancy category). El SanJuanino on Posadas for empanadas and other NW treats. El Estabilo on San Martin for good all around food and atmosphere (noisy and sort of divish, but I felt like a regular by my second visit when they greated me by name). For pizza I like Filo which is also on San Martin. Best overall experience was probably lunch at Sotto Vocce with terrific service and to-die-for Italian food (a carpaccio and gnocchi).
COFFEE: Excellent coffee service everywhere. Cafe Tortoni may be on the tourist route, but it lives up to it's reputation. I loved being able to stop on just about any corner for a delicious cafe and cookies.
ESTANCIA: I spent two nights at El Ombu about an hour outside of BA and quite near to San Antonio. This was the highlight of my trip. The estancia was very comfortable with delicious homestyle food. Friday night I was the only overnight guest so I felt like I had my own place in the country. I had not been on a horse since I was about 8 years old, but I loved it. The gauchos (and the horses) were very patient. They have stairs for moutning the horses so I mounting scares you there is no need to worry. I came home convinced I need to buy a horse.
San Antonio is a great little town. The roads were closed due to fog so I pretty much had it to myself. The folks at the Draghi Silver workshop visited with me for over an hour and shared their mate with me. I also visited some other shops and the Museo Criollo. It was a terrific day out. The taxi was 70 pesos to come out to the ranch and get me, drive me around town to show me the highlights and then to wait until I was ready to back.
TRANSPORT: I used remises arranged by Cintia for the airport. Otherwise I hailed taxis or used the subte. Both were very easy to do an cheap.
COLONIA: I took Buquebus over to Colonia for the day. The town is charming and an afternoon is plenty of time to see everything. I ate at the Torre by the waterfront which has a great view, high prices and so-so food. The coffee was undrinkable there. It was a nice sunny day so sitting outside enjoying the view was probably worth it.
ARGENTINE SPANISH: If you speak Mexican type Spanish,the big difference is that y and ll are pronounced more like a French je. Once you get that figured out, it is pretty easy to understand the accent.
FINAL THOUGHTS: I loved Argentina and I can't wait to go back. I found everyone very helpful and willing to speak to Spanish even to a foreigner. Next time I'll try the NW or Iguazu.
TRAVEL AGENT: I used Cintia at Wow Argentina. While not the cheapest possible, I was very satisfied with the service and the guides she arranged for me.
TOURS: Cintia arranged a full day orientation tour for which was terrific. Being totally personalized I could spend more or less time according to my whims.
A 2 hour walking tour of my neighborhood with the same guide I had for the full day. They were great to reschedule this when the original day turned out to have nasty rain and high winds. We even picked up Recoleta Cemetary from the other tour because it was pouring rain the first time we tried to go.
A five hour art tour with an art historian. We visited the NAtional Museum, MALBA and Museo Xul Solar. It was like visiting museums with a friend.
HOTELS: Cintia found the Argenta Tower for me. It was resonably priced and located one block from Plaza San Martin. It included breakfast and had free internet in the business center. Nothing deluxe, but a good value. Rooms also have a microwave, two burners, a sink and a refrigerator.
Last three nights at the Marriott Plaza on the other side of Plaza San Martin - really nice and pampering. They put Havanna candy bars or alfajores on your pillow at turn down.
DINNER SHOWS: I went to Tango Piazzolla. It was fine, but the show was 15 minuites longer than I needed it to be.
Opera Pampa was much more fun. It takes place outside (but under heaters and they give you blankets) so they have horses and a huge cast. It includes a reception with empanadas and drinks, the show, shopping in a little bazaar and a barbeque dinner. The food was good and the show really enjoyable. They give an English version of the narration out ahead of time. It's a good idea to read it so you can follow the action, but the story is very similar to the history of the US old west so even with no Spanish one would enjoy. I would suggest taking your own taxi or remise to this. I used their tranfers and they were bad - late at both ends and the driver had no idea where my hotel was. Fortunately I speak Spanish and it was at the end of my stay so I could give him directions.
FERIA MATADEROS - I went to this gaucho themed Sunday fair instead of San Telmo. I had a terrific time. It is a far out suburb so it was nice to be in normal type of neighborhood. People were very nice and the shopping was very goood with lots of cheap prices on souvenirs and hand crafts. There were folk dancers as well as music for general dancing - no tango here. I also had a great bowl of locro. Make sure you have money with you when you get there - the nearestr ATM is 6 blocks away (I shopped more than I meant to and had to find an ATM for cab fare). You can get here by bus, but cabs are cheap so I opted for that.
SHOPPING: The shopping is great and I found things very resonable. If you are a plus size woman, I can reccommend Portofem at 1129 Santa Fe. I didn't bring a sweater with me and found a great one there. The prices and service were very good. My favorite store was probably Calma Chicha (Palermo or San Telmo) or Palermo Paperia. I bought art in a great little gallery in San Telmo that shows up and coming artists called Branco espacio de arte at Defensa 1295.
FOOD: I didn't have a bad meal anywhere. My favorites were Mirasol de la Recova on Posadas near the Four Seasons hotel (in the fancy category). El SanJuanino on Posadas for empanadas and other NW treats. El Estabilo on San Martin for good all around food and atmosphere (noisy and sort of divish, but I felt like a regular by my second visit when they greated me by name). For pizza I like Filo which is also on San Martin. Best overall experience was probably lunch at Sotto Vocce with terrific service and to-die-for Italian food (a carpaccio and gnocchi).
COFFEE: Excellent coffee service everywhere. Cafe Tortoni may be on the tourist route, but it lives up to it's reputation. I loved being able to stop on just about any corner for a delicious cafe and cookies.
ESTANCIA: I spent two nights at El Ombu about an hour outside of BA and quite near to San Antonio. This was the highlight of my trip. The estancia was very comfortable with delicious homestyle food. Friday night I was the only overnight guest so I felt like I had my own place in the country. I had not been on a horse since I was about 8 years old, but I loved it. The gauchos (and the horses) were very patient. They have stairs for moutning the horses so I mounting scares you there is no need to worry. I came home convinced I need to buy a horse.
San Antonio is a great little town. The roads were closed due to fog so I pretty much had it to myself. The folks at the Draghi Silver workshop visited with me for over an hour and shared their mate with me. I also visited some other shops and the Museo Criollo. It was a terrific day out. The taxi was 70 pesos to come out to the ranch and get me, drive me around town to show me the highlights and then to wait until I was ready to back.
TRANSPORT: I used remises arranged by Cintia for the airport. Otherwise I hailed taxis or used the subte. Both were very easy to do an cheap.
COLONIA: I took Buquebus over to Colonia for the day. The town is charming and an afternoon is plenty of time to see everything. I ate at the Torre by the waterfront which has a great view, high prices and so-so food. The coffee was undrinkable there. It was a nice sunny day so sitting outside enjoying the view was probably worth it.
ARGENTINE SPANISH: If you speak Mexican type Spanish,the big difference is that y and ll are pronounced more like a French je. Once you get that figured out, it is pretty easy to understand the accent.
FINAL THOUGHTS: I loved Argentina and I can't wait to go back. I found everyone very helpful and willing to speak to Spanish even to a foreigner. Next time I'll try the NW or Iguazu.
Jul 8th, 2008, 03:33 PM
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teach - thanks for the report. I am just beginning to plan a trip to BA for March. Your highlights were very helpful. We will be traveling with our kids (ages 16 and 13). Do you think either of the two shows you saw would be appropriate for them, and/or something they might enjoy?
Jul 8th, 2008, 04:18 PM
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I will chime in to say that I think your two teens would like Opera Pampa very much. My wife and I both commented that on our NEXT trip we are bringing our grandkids....and this show will be high up on our list of MUST DO places to take them....
Jul 8th, 2008, 05:05 PM
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I agree that Opera Pampa would be great for kids. The tango show less so. The Opera has a nice mix of activity since you arrive and go to the empanada reception and have time to look in the booths. Next is the show. Then you come back inside and can shop more before being seated for dinner. Dinner is all you can eat and they keep coming around with the various courses.
At the Tango Show I went to, you are seated and dinner is served restaurant style. It took a long time for dinner to be served since people arrive at various times. The food was good, but was a little "fancy" eg a shot glass of layered mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes. It depends on your kids whether that would appeal.
At the Tango Show I went to, you are seated and dinner is served restaurant style. It took a long time for dinner to be served since people arrive at various times. The food was good, but was a little "fancy" eg a shot glass of layered mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes. It depends on your kids whether that would appeal.
Jul 9th, 2008, 04:52 PM
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Your trip sounds great. I have a bunch of questions if you don't mind. I am looking for a destination for my family (husband, daughter who will be 2yrs old at the time, 30 year old brother and mid-60s parents). We are coming from Boston and want to escape the winter here so I was thinking about February. All of us are interested in Argentina so I am thinking of Buenos Aires with maybe a few nights elsewhere.
How long were you there for and how did you divide up your time? How many days do you think are good for BA for someone moderately interested in history and art and very interested in food, shopping and just seeing something different? How did you find the prices when you were there? The airfare is looking quite steep ($1100/person) so I am hoping that very low hotel and food prices compensate?
How long were you there for and how did you divide up your time? How many days do you think are good for BA for someone moderately interested in history and art and very interested in food, shopping and just seeing something different? How did you find the prices when you were there? The airfare is looking quite steep ($1100/person) so I am hoping that very low hotel and food prices compensate?
Jul 9th, 2008, 05:29 PM
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I was in BA for 2 full weeks. Out of that time I spent 3 days/2 nights in the country at a guest ranch. I didn't run out of things to do, so It seemed like a good ammount of time. That said, I am not a commando tourist - I like to see a few things and absorb them. I also love to stop in cafes and have coffee and read so I am not a speedy tourer.
You can find hotels for $100 US, although not the ones I stayed in. Food is really cheap. THe most expensive meal I had (at Mirasol) was $120 pesos. You can eat a full meal for under $5.00 US. I don't drink so my prices don't include wine or cocktails, but those didn't seem very expensive to me either.
I would say 5-7 days in Buenos Aires and then a few nights in the country (no flight) or at the falls in the north (you have to fly) would be great. The time difference is only one hour for you so not a great jet lag problem.
I loved Argentina - I can't imagine a better vacation.
You can find hotels for $100 US, although not the ones I stayed in. Food is really cheap. THe most expensive meal I had (at Mirasol) was $120 pesos. You can eat a full meal for under $5.00 US. I don't drink so my prices don't include wine or cocktails, but those didn't seem very expensive to me either.
I would say 5-7 days in Buenos Aires and then a few nights in the country (no flight) or at the falls in the north (you have to fly) would be great. The time difference is only one hour for you so not a great jet lag problem.
I loved Argentina - I can't imagine a better vacation.
Jul 13th, 2008, 10:50 AM
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Sally, you might think about an apartment for your trip. There are several agencies that handle vacation rentals; I used www.bytargentina.com and was quite pleased also check out VRBO and craigslist as well. As a solo traveler I had a one bedroom but there are places that would work for your larger group.
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