Puerto Viejo, Tortuguero, Montezuma, Drake Bay, Puerto Jimenez - Pura vida.
Jul 14th, 2010, 04:04 PM
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Puerto Viejo, Tortuguero, Montezuma, Drake Bay, Puerto Jimenez - Pura vida.
I always enjoy reading people’s trip reports so here’s my attempt at summarizing our (myself and 13 year old daughter) recent trip 6/25/10 through 7/13/2010. There were more travel logistics included this time than in prior trips, and though I understand the itinerary might not fit everyone’s interests, it was indeed an amazing time!
1/n, San Jose – Casa 69 http://www.casa69.com/
3/n, Puerto Viejo – Banana Azul http://www.bananaazul.com/
2/n, Tortuguero – Laguna Lodge http://www.lagunatortuguero.com/
4/n, Montezuma – Ylang Ylang http://www.ylangylangbeachresort.com/
3/n, Drake Bay – Drake Bay Wilderness Resort http://www.drakebay.com/index.php
4/n, Puerto Jimenez – Bosque del Cabo http://www.bosquedelcabo.com/
1/n, Alejuela – Orquideas Inn http://www.orquideasinn.com/
We flew AA from Seattle with little issues (slight delays, but nothing major) and landed in San Jose around 8:00pm. Casa 69 transportation is $20 vs $25 for taxi. We were pounced on by unlicensed drivers at the exit of SJO while looking for our driver but quickly found him and were on our way. Sleepy on the plane we became wide eyed taking in the sights and smells of Costa Rica on our way into the city. Upon arrival, Casa 69 (a small B&B converted from a home originally built in 1938), appeared to be a typical cement walled and gated building in the gritty city. Once we entered we found a wonderful oasis of tropical plants in every nook and cranny, several semi-private patio areas to hang out and the walls loaded with wonderful original artwork. We chose the room with two comfy king size beds, sitting area and terrace. It was HUGE and gorgeous (and super clean) and at $70, the most expensive room, a bargain. It’s also in a great location for walking to some of the major sights. There is a light breakfast included or you can choose from a few tasty items for extra charge. We opted for the included fare after spending one night and off we went with Interbus https://www.interbusonline.com/home/home.asp to Puerto Viejo. The owners were warm and welcoming, the place was great and we definitely recommend this B&B!
1/n, San Jose – Casa 69 http://www.casa69.com/
3/n, Puerto Viejo – Banana Azul http://www.bananaazul.com/
2/n, Tortuguero – Laguna Lodge http://www.lagunatortuguero.com/
4/n, Montezuma – Ylang Ylang http://www.ylangylangbeachresort.com/
3/n, Drake Bay – Drake Bay Wilderness Resort http://www.drakebay.com/index.php
4/n, Puerto Jimenez – Bosque del Cabo http://www.bosquedelcabo.com/
1/n, Alejuela – Orquideas Inn http://www.orquideasinn.com/
We flew AA from Seattle with little issues (slight delays, but nothing major) and landed in San Jose around 8:00pm. Casa 69 transportation is $20 vs $25 for taxi. We were pounced on by unlicensed drivers at the exit of SJO while looking for our driver but quickly found him and were on our way. Sleepy on the plane we became wide eyed taking in the sights and smells of Costa Rica on our way into the city. Upon arrival, Casa 69 (a small B&B converted from a home originally built in 1938), appeared to be a typical cement walled and gated building in the gritty city. Once we entered we found a wonderful oasis of tropical plants in every nook and cranny, several semi-private patio areas to hang out and the walls loaded with wonderful original artwork. We chose the room with two comfy king size beds, sitting area and terrace. It was HUGE and gorgeous (and super clean) and at $70, the most expensive room, a bargain. It’s also in a great location for walking to some of the major sights. There is a light breakfast included or you can choose from a few tasty items for extra charge. We opted for the included fare after spending one night and off we went with Interbus https://www.interbusonline.com/home/home.asp to Puerto Viejo. The owners were warm and welcoming, the place was great and we definitely recommend this B&B!
Jul 14th, 2010, 06:26 PM
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I can't wait to hear about your trip!! You really, really got around this time!!! We leave next week and I am so looking forward to going back!
Casa 69 sounds like a great start! I'm looking forward to hearing about the rest!
Casa 69 sounds like a great start! I'm looking forward to hearing about the rest!
Jul 15th, 2010, 08:48 AM
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janenicole - You are correct! For a brief moment I felt like I bit off a bit more than I could chew because I picked destinations first, and then being stubborn like I am, figured out the transportation later. 
plumboy - I'm trying not to procrastinate this time. I didn't even finish last trip report and would like to do better this time! I think you'd really enjoy Casa 69. It's simply lovely and unique.
odie1 - Yes! We did make it to the Jaguar Center and I will take a look at your pics. Weren't the baby sloths SO CUTE?!?!
ShellD - We did get around that's for sure. Taking several flights definitely hit the budget a little harder than I would have liked, but it was wonderful being able to visit each area.
volcanogirl - Ylang Ylang was gorgeous, but I will point out a couple pros and cons a little later...
owlwoman - Banana Azul is AMAZING. We first stayed here in it's beginning stages about 4 years ago and my how it's changed. I really wish we had a couple more nights here.
Promise to post the next installment a little later today!
plumboy - I'm trying not to procrastinate this time. I didn't even finish last trip report and would like to do better this time! I think you'd really enjoy Casa 69. It's simply lovely and unique.
odie1 - Yes! We did make it to the Jaguar Center and I will take a look at your pics. Weren't the baby sloths SO CUTE?!?!
ShellD - We did get around that's for sure. Taking several flights definitely hit the budget a little harder than I would have liked, but it was wonderful being able to visit each area.
volcanogirl - Ylang Ylang was gorgeous, but I will point out a couple pros and cons a little later...
owlwoman - Banana Azul is AMAZING. We first stayed here in it's beginning stages about 4 years ago and my how it's changed. I really wish we had a couple more nights here.
Promise to post the next installment a little later today!
Jul 15th, 2010, 10:23 AM
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It was great to see you both again at Banana Azul. We hope our changes did not detract from your first experience when we were so small and just getting going.
I hope all the rest of your trip went well. I look forward to reading about your other experiences. Cheers, Colin.
I hope all the rest of your trip went well. I look forward to reading about your other experiences. Cheers, Colin.
Jul 15th, 2010, 02:38 PM
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Colin -- They are all good changes! No complaints here that's for sure. It was great seeing you and Roberto again.
6/26 - We were picked up by Interbus around 8:00am for the drive to PV. I originally considered renting a car for this leg, but due to recent landslide activity and Hwy 32 closures I decided against it. A few days before we left I found out that Hwy 32 was closed for investigation and we would have to detour through Turrialba. My concern was it would take 8 hours vs 4 ½ due to various postings on Trip Advisor. Our driver was muy rapido and got us to Banana Azul by 12:20, which included a stop for a snack. The drive was gorgeous. We stayed here 4 years ago in the Red Frog room and had a wonderful time. The restaurant was serving great breakfasts, the rooms on the 2nd level of the two story structure were open for business, the coy pond around the 1st floor dining/social area was being built the grounds were nicely landscaped and the flora and fauna was beautiful. We convinced two friends who had never been anywhere outside the U.S. to join us for 4 nights and they stayed in the Sloth Cabina, which they loved. It’s sort of a duplex on the second floor over storage/laundry with a shared deck and outdoor kitchenette. The owners, Colin and Roberto, and staff were especially warm and friendly and made you feel very welcome. At the time they were living in the two bedroom, 2nd floor of the house wherein the Red Frog room was on the 1st floor with a great patio area, sink and turtle pond. We had been wanting to return for a while, but other areas were also calling our name, besides the fact they BA is now requesting clientele be over 16 years of age so we chose to stay at Azania Bungalows 3 years ago thinking there might be kids her age there to hang out with. Side note, I did e-mail Colin and since he remembered us he said he would be happy to have us stay there again despite of the minimum age on the website…Back to the present trip.
When we arrived at Banana Azul it was simply beautiful. The plants and trees have grown and much more has been planted everywhere around the exterior. The coy pond (I’d estimate it covers about 80 yards in length by approx 4 feet wide) was complete and stocked with fish and turtles, there were new turtle ponds with lily pads and pond flowers growing, a nice pool had been added including a cold “hot” tub. The dogs and cats who were kittens before were there to greet us. They’ve also received great mention in travel magazines including Travel and Leisure over the last couple of years and deservedly so. It’s small and intimate and the travelers we met there were all friendly and happy to be there so we really had a wonderful time. The restaurant and bar is now open all day for meals and offers very tasty and fresh choices. It’s sort of hard to force yourself to venture out at times! We opted to stay in the “apartment” (the owners old abode, they now have a house a hop away) which is two bedrooms with kitchen and living room that is open concept (no walls). Even though it’s the splurge accommodation here it’s still a bargain. “Rusty” (our name for the orange cat) stayed with us while we were there. We have an orange tabby at home so it was nice having a pet. I’m also happy to report the owners and staff are just as awesome as ever and this place is a jewel I can’t wait to return to!
Ok, so I got a little wordy (imagine that) about the hotel itself and my break is over. I will have to continue later and post more about what we did (which included quite a bit of chillaxing).
6/26 - We were picked up by Interbus around 8:00am for the drive to PV. I originally considered renting a car for this leg, but due to recent landslide activity and Hwy 32 closures I decided against it. A few days before we left I found out that Hwy 32 was closed for investigation and we would have to detour through Turrialba. My concern was it would take 8 hours vs 4 ½ due to various postings on Trip Advisor. Our driver was muy rapido and got us to Banana Azul by 12:20, which included a stop for a snack. The drive was gorgeous. We stayed here 4 years ago in the Red Frog room and had a wonderful time. The restaurant was serving great breakfasts, the rooms on the 2nd level of the two story structure were open for business, the coy pond around the 1st floor dining/social area was being built the grounds were nicely landscaped and the flora and fauna was beautiful. We convinced two friends who had never been anywhere outside the U.S. to join us for 4 nights and they stayed in the Sloth Cabina, which they loved. It’s sort of a duplex on the second floor over storage/laundry with a shared deck and outdoor kitchenette. The owners, Colin and Roberto, and staff were especially warm and friendly and made you feel very welcome. At the time they were living in the two bedroom, 2nd floor of the house wherein the Red Frog room was on the 1st floor with a great patio area, sink and turtle pond. We had been wanting to return for a while, but other areas were also calling our name, besides the fact they BA is now requesting clientele be over 16 years of age so we chose to stay at Azania Bungalows 3 years ago thinking there might be kids her age there to hang out with. Side note, I did e-mail Colin and since he remembered us he said he would be happy to have us stay there again despite of the minimum age on the website…Back to the present trip.
When we arrived at Banana Azul it was simply beautiful. The plants and trees have grown and much more has been planted everywhere around the exterior. The coy pond (I’d estimate it covers about 80 yards in length by approx 4 feet wide) was complete and stocked with fish and turtles, there were new turtle ponds with lily pads and pond flowers growing, a nice pool had been added including a cold “hot” tub. The dogs and cats who were kittens before were there to greet us. They’ve also received great mention in travel magazines including Travel and Leisure over the last couple of years and deservedly so. It’s small and intimate and the travelers we met there were all friendly and happy to be there so we really had a wonderful time. The restaurant and bar is now open all day for meals and offers very tasty and fresh choices. It’s sort of hard to force yourself to venture out at times! We opted to stay in the “apartment” (the owners old abode, they now have a house a hop away) which is two bedrooms with kitchen and living room that is open concept (no walls). Even though it’s the splurge accommodation here it’s still a bargain. “Rusty” (our name for the orange cat) stayed with us while we were there. We have an orange tabby at home so it was nice having a pet. I’m also happy to report the owners and staff are just as awesome as ever and this place is a jewel I can’t wait to return to!
Ok, so I got a little wordy (imagine that) about the hotel itself and my break is over. I will have to continue later and post more about what we did (which included quite a bit of chillaxing).
Jul 15th, 2010, 03:46 PM
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I understand wordy and it is not a problem! Looking forward to reading the rest. Did you remember to wave from Interbus as you whipped by shillmac? So happy you liked Casa 69, will have to stay there soon too.
So happy you liked Casa 69, will have to stay there soon too.
Jul 19th, 2010, 03:40 PM
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Thanks for perservering with me peeps. In hindsight, a couple of more days in PV would have been sweet!
I’ve decided to start summarizing this report by area or I will never get done! I did manage to get through pics over the weekend and should be able to upload this week.
PUERTO VIEJO: http://www.puertoviejosatellite.com/
Jaguar Rescue Center/chocolate tour/waterfall Http://web.me.com/jaguarrescue/jag_site/Home.html: This was an enjoyable combo tour that takes about ½ day. The rescue center is set up well and the owner (who is from Spain) seems to have a good handle on how to run a successful organization answering all sorts of questions and offering current information on all the animals. The tour was well organized and everyone was able to have hands on time with baby sloths and monkeys. The owner’s philosophy is straight forward in that she’d rather take some risk by releasing animals and give them a chance to enjoy life in the wild rather than keep them forever in captivity. The chocolate tour is fairly short, and is given using a method like some cooking shows (not demonstrating the whole process, but going over each step and showing the already finished product). There were tastings and a chance to buy some differently flavored chocolates and crafts at the end. The waterfall was a short hike down a steep path/steps and we spent maybe 45 minutes cooling off in the large pool. Some people were climbing the rocks behind the waterfall and jumping, but not us. The cost is $45/pp for 3 or more, which is what we paid since we had a group. The taxi itself would cost over $35 so not too bad, but you could also bike if you’re up for it or do a self drive if you have a car.
Maxi’s in Manzanillo: I gathered 6 new friends for dinner so we could all share in the taxi ride and make it a party. Two young ladies from So Cal, a young couple from San Fran and another couple from Fla. We arrived just around dusk so still time to enjoy the views (upstairs seating is the best). I had been craving lobster and decided to splurge. To be honest it was not good. The lobsters don’t have tail meat like here in the states and there was only about 4 oz (at most) meat in the body. It was also smothered in a caramelized onion mixture, whereas good old butter is all I need. One of the girls had a dish that also used the onion mixture and she didn’t care for hers either. That said the crazy company, atmosphere, Caipirinha’s and mating geckos (some that fell on us) totally made up for any disappointment from the lobster. We had an awesome time and headed back to the hotel after dinner for nightcaps.
Playa Negra: The ocean here can be rough or mellow, you never can tell. During our time here the sun was hot, the sky was blue and the waves were great for some easy body-surfing or boogie-boarding. When we were tired of hitting the waves we hit the pool. Pretty simple.
Puerto Viejo: Still laid back and casual as ever. It’s a lovely beach walk (about 20 minutes) to town from the hotel into town and back. Did a little window shopping and bought a couple of sarongs which prove to be invaluable the rest of the trip as a skirt, dress, tablecloth, towel, etc. Always have to make a stop for ice cream. Other than that, we pretty much wander aimlessly.
Death of a frog: Daughter jumped out of bed one morning and “rolled” her foot over a little froggie. He didn’t make it, poor thing. Life and death in the rainforest. May he ribbit in peace.
Banana Azul: RESTAURANT - Beverages and meals always fantastic at reasonable prices. Dinner menu is posted early, usually with 3 choices, and you can just show up and enjoy salad bar, main course and dessert for $11. LAUNDRY – Can be done with 24 hour turnaround fairly inexpensively. TOURS – http://www.geckotrail.com/index.htm?af=bananaazul There’s a tour desk on site that can book a set tour or customize pretty much anything you want, very convenient. INTERNET – Wi-Fi available if you have your own puter, or for a small fee per ½ hour you can use their laptop. HOTEL – beautiful, clean, personal touches everywhere. Bliss. STAFF/OWNERS – Super!
Side note: I highly recommend a guided hike through Gandoca-Manzanillo Refuge, Sloth Rescue Center, biking around to the beautiful beaches, kayaking and trying out sodas along with other amazing things to do in this area.
Next up – Tortuguero.
In hindsight, a couple of more days in PV would have been sweet! I’ve decided to start summarizing this report by area or I will never get done!
I did manage to get through pics over the weekend and should be able to upload this week.PUERTO VIEJO: http://www.puertoviejosatellite.com/
Jaguar Rescue Center/chocolate tour/waterfall Http://web.me.com/jaguarrescue/jag_site/Home.html: This was an enjoyable combo tour that takes about ½ day. The rescue center is set up well and the owner (who is from Spain) seems to have a good handle on how to run a successful organization answering all sorts of questions and offering current information on all the animals. The tour was well organized and everyone was able to have hands on time with baby sloths and monkeys. The owner’s philosophy is straight forward in that she’d rather take some risk by releasing animals and give them a chance to enjoy life in the wild rather than keep them forever in captivity. The chocolate tour is fairly short, and is given using a method like some cooking shows (not demonstrating the whole process, but going over each step and showing the already finished product). There were tastings and a chance to buy some differently flavored chocolates and crafts at the end. The waterfall was a short hike down a steep path/steps and we spent maybe 45 minutes cooling off in the large pool. Some people were climbing the rocks behind the waterfall and jumping, but not us. The cost is $45/pp for 3 or more, which is what we paid since we had a group. The taxi itself would cost over $35 so not too bad, but you could also bike if you’re up for it or do a self drive if you have a car.
Maxi’s in Manzanillo: I gathered 6 new friends for dinner so we could all share in the taxi ride and make it a party. Two young ladies from So Cal, a young couple from San Fran and another couple from Fla. We arrived just around dusk so still time to enjoy the views (upstairs seating is the best). I had been craving lobster and decided to splurge. To be honest it was not good. The lobsters don’t have tail meat like here in the states and there was only about 4 oz (at most) meat in the body. It was also smothered in a caramelized onion mixture, whereas good old butter is all I need. One of the girls had a dish that also used the onion mixture and she didn’t care for hers either. That said the crazy company, atmosphere, Caipirinha’s and mating geckos (some that fell on us) totally made up for any disappointment from the lobster. We had an awesome time and headed back to the hotel after dinner for nightcaps.
Playa Negra: The ocean here can be rough or mellow, you never can tell. During our time here the sun was hot, the sky was blue and the waves were great for some easy body-surfing or boogie-boarding. When we were tired of hitting the waves we hit the pool. Pretty simple.
Puerto Viejo: Still laid back and casual as ever. It’s a lovely beach walk (about 20 minutes) to town from the hotel into town and back. Did a little window shopping and bought a couple of sarongs which prove to be invaluable the rest of the trip as a skirt, dress, tablecloth, towel, etc. Always have to make a stop for ice cream. Other than that, we pretty much wander aimlessly.
Death of a frog: Daughter jumped out of bed one morning and “rolled” her foot over a little froggie. He didn’t make it, poor thing. Life and death in the rainforest. May he ribbit in peace.
Banana Azul: RESTAURANT - Beverages and meals always fantastic at reasonable prices. Dinner menu is posted early, usually with 3 choices, and you can just show up and enjoy salad bar, main course and dessert for $11. LAUNDRY – Can be done with 24 hour turnaround fairly inexpensively. TOURS – http://www.geckotrail.com/index.htm?af=bananaazul There’s a tour desk on site that can book a set tour or customize pretty much anything you want, very convenient. INTERNET – Wi-Fi available if you have your own puter, or for a small fee per ½ hour you can use their laptop. HOTEL – beautiful, clean, personal touches everywhere. Bliss. STAFF/OWNERS – Super!
Side note: I highly recommend a guided hike through Gandoca-Manzanillo Refuge, Sloth Rescue Center, biking around to the beautiful beaches, kayaking and trying out sodas along with other amazing things to do in this area.
Next up – Tortuguero.
