alwaysafrica

Hi all!

As you may be able to suspect from my screen name, my husband and I spent January of 2005 in East Africa (Tanzania) and loved every moment! And although we'd love to return to Africa as soon as we can, we'd like our next trip to be something a little more relaxing (and inexpensive ). That said, we've done some preliminary reading and decided upon Panama as a destination - it looks wonderful! We are from Toronto, Canada and will be travelling in October 2005, in celebration of my husband's 30th birthday!

We've decided to spend two weeks in Panama, and to most definitely spend at least a week at the Royal Decameron Beach Resort - relaxing in an all-inclusive setting... However, what we can't decide is how to spend the rest of our time...!

We'd like to be able to see at least some of the countryside, as well as Panama City and the canal of course... and to do this, it seems that we have several options:

1) World of Vacations offers a "2-Centred Holiday", which would allow us to stay 10 nights at the Royal Decameron and then the remaining 4 nights at the Radisson Decapolis in Panama City (which is all-inclusive as well). If we did this, we could then take day trips from the Radisson in order to see the city, canal, jungle, tree canopies, etc.

2) We could spend all two weeks at the Decameron and simply take several day tours from there...

3) We could stay for one week at the Decameron and then opt to take the charter home one week after that - leaving us with 7 open days to do with what we wished. This way, we could arrange a multi-day tour into the jungle, etc. and arrange a hotel in Panama City for the rest of the week...

Which would you recommend? Any suggestions would be very helpful! Please keep in mind that Tanzania was a VERY adventure-filled trip and so we're looking for a nice mix of relaxation and exploration on this trip... but also not spending too much money. So, are the day tours from the resorts any good, comprehensive - or should we try to plan something on our own during the second week?

Thanks to all of you experts who may be able to help me out...!

Jenn

livekarma

I lived in Panama as a Peace Corps volunteer for two and a half years, so I know the country fairly well. If you're already committed to a week at the Decameron, so be it, but definitely don't stay there for two weeks. The food isn't that good and you'll be bored to death by the end of the week. If you decide to explore the vicinity around the Decameron, one beach over is Santa Clara. Veraneras is a bar on the beach in Santa Clara that is very nice. On the northern side of the Interamerican, also in Santa Clara, is a fun place called XS, owned by an American Couple. It's a bar/restaurant/small hotel with a true expatriate flair. If you head there make sure to tell them Rob sent you.

As far as day trips in Panama City, Gamboa is a MUST see. Take a boat ride to radio tower or monkey island. You won't regret it. Another nice trip in Panama City is to Punta Culebra on the causeway. It's a nice little island that is operated by the Smithsonian. A lot of Panamanians don't know it's even there, so a taxi driver might try to tell you you're mistaken and you are asking about Corte Culebra, but ensure him you know what you're talking about; you want to go to Punta Culebra on the causeway. You'll also want to visit the Miraflores locks on the canal and watch a ship pass through; you can do this on the way to or from Gamboa. (If you want to spend some extra cash stay at the Gamboa Resort rather than making it a day trip; that place is gorgeous.)

Generally, Panama has so many incredible places that it almost hurts me to hear you say you're considering staying at a mediocre all-inclusive resort for two weeks. Consider traveling to the western part of the country and visiting Boquete or Bocas del Toro. If you're feeling very adventurous you can go out to San Blas. I'd recommend staying away from Colon and the Free Zone; it's not worth it. If you need any more advice feel free to ask, and HAVE FUN!

cmcfong

LiveKarma has nailed it. I grew up (this was a looooong time ago) in Panama. In the last six years I have returned to this beautiful country for several visits. It is well worth exploring on your own. Sitting at a mediocre ai is not the way to see it. I recommend you rent a car and head out. Go to the Canopy Tower and take a hike on the Pipeline. Hit the beaches in Santa Clara, go to El Valle and on up to Boquete. Panama is a gorgeous, exciting country with many dimensions. As Rob mentions the San Blas Islands and Bocas del Toro are interesting side trips. Do a word search on this board. Jean and several other recent visitors posted good trip reports. Andrew is living there and he also offers good information.

alwaysafrica

Thanks so much guys! The advice is extremely helpful...! You'll be happy to know that we never really even considered staying at the Decameron for two weeks... the only all-inclusive option we were really considering was the 10 days at the Decameron, and then 4 days at the Decapolis (from which we would have gone on side trips to see the country) - we've decided against it, in favour of seeing the country on our own that second week Actually, my husband and I were away over the weekend and did alot of talking about it, and had come to that conclusion, but your opinions definitely solified our decision

So, we're going to spend our first week at the Decameron (believe me, our magical month-long safari/hiking/mountain-trekking trip to Tanzania in January left us in need of some all-inclusive R&R before heading out to explore another beautiful country...), and now we have to make some decisions about that 2nd week of exploration! So much to see!

Thanks for your suggestions... Does anyone have any recommendations for a mid-range hotel in Panama City? Also, we're now thinking of doing some sailing through the San Blas islands. We've also considered doing a "Coastal Darien Adventure" which is 3 days/2 nights in Punto Patino - any opinions on this trip into the Darien (the safe spots, of course)?

Any further help would be great!

Oh, and what about the fact that our trip is smack in the middle of rainy season?

Thanks again!

Jenn

cmcfong

Jenn, first rainy season is the lushest and most beautiful time to see Panama. It does rain and it is humid, but you will get used to it.
A good midrange hotel choice is the Country Inn and Suites on Amador Causeway, ask for a second floor room so you can watch the ships queing for the Canal crossing.
I personally love Boquete. Stay either at the Panamonte or the Coffee Estate Inn. I also like the beach at Santa Clara. Take a tour of the Smithsonian island, hike the Pipeline and have a wonderful time. Sorry I don't have any experience with sailing in the San Blas or the Darien area. There are some great postings particularly by Tio Gringo and Andrew on this site. I mentioned Jean's trip report as well in my earlier posting.

livekarma

Unfortunately, I too am unfamiliar with Darien, and my San Blas experience consists of flying there, not sailing. It sounds great though. cmc's suggestion of the country inn on the causeway is an excellent one. Also, if you do go to Boquete, the Panamonte has a great restaurant, but I'd rather stay at La Montana y El Valle, three private cabanas on a coffee/orange farm overlooking the valley. Another day trip from the Decameron could be El Valle de Anton. It's similar to Boquete, but not quite as nice. It's definitely worth seeing though.

belle

i wish someone had told me about Punta Culebra on the causeway before I went. I was searching for a sloth and was told on the way to Barro Colorado that P.Culebra was the place to see them. Unfortunately, it was closed on Monday, the only day I had to visit. Gamboa resort, IMHO, is an atrocity, and the tour desk is a joke, most unhelpful, at least for single travelers. If you like to travel independantly as I do, call ahead to the visitors center at Miraflores to make sure a boat is passing through when you want to visit. The number, which I wish someone had given me in advance, is 276-8617.

belle

Oh, and anyone interested in visiting la Comarca kuna Yala (San Blas) should be aware that Sapibinega near Playon Chico is under construction. If you dream of a quiet island respite, you will not get it there right now...

cmcfong

Belle, will you post a trip report on your Panama adventure?

belle

Yes, I will cmcfong, when I have recovered from the bacterial lung infection I somehow contracted in playon Chico and can think of the positive aspects instead of just the negatives. You are obviously a fan of Panama and I am trying really hard to look on the bright side. I've traveled extensively in Latin America, and speak Spanish, but my experiences during this recent trip to Panama were less than I expected. Maybe I went with too high an aspiration. Give me a few days....time will soften.

cmcfong

Lo siento. I am a fan of this beautiful country and it is sad to hear your experiences weren't happy for you. I do want to hear about your trip. Hope you recover quickly.

mtypist

Hola! My daughter married a Panamanian in Nov 2004 in Aquadulce, and while down there, we got to see Panama through a Panamanian's eyes. Boquete is a must see. We stayed at the Fundadores Hotel, which actually has a river running through it. Looks like a castle on the outside; can't miss it on your way into town. We took a tour given by Boquette Mountain Cruisers, just ask the desk clerk at Fundadores. He arranged for us. Geat tour and next day did a hike up into the mountains to look way down on Boquette. On the Caribbean side, we stayed at Caribbean Jimmy's which is located at Nombre de Dios. There are 5 cabanas right on a beautiful beach. Took a 5-hr horseback ride into the jungle which was absolutely fantastic! James, the owner, has boat trips out to San Blas, but the seas were too rough when we were there then. We spent a total of 20 days in Panama and wished we could have spent more time there.

livekarma

MTYPIST -
was your daughter in the Peace Corps down there? I wonder if I know her. My wife is a Panamanian and owns a bakery in Aguadulce. What a small world.

mtypist

Hola Livekarma! No, my daughter met her husband in Florida when he came up for school. He was doing an internship in aquaculture, and she was doing hers in marine mammals when they met at Mote Marine. She has never been in the Peace Corp but had thought about it at one point. Are you currently in the Peace Corp? What bakery does your wife own in Aquadulce? The only place I know is Pannito's (sp?), which is more like a little restaurant; not sure if they are a bakery. Jen & Richard actually live in Naranjal and got married in El Cristo. The wedding was fantastic! Jen wore a pollera. The groom and 2 others rode horses to the church and wore the Guayabera shirts and typical Panamanian hats. They had Conjunta tipico dancers and Diablicos dancers at the reception. Do you live in Aquadulce now? I wonder if you know my daughter too. Wouldn't that be something...(Cedeño)

livekarma

The name of my wife's bakery is Romec, though we live in Florida now. I finished my Peace Corps service in 2003, but we go back every year.

mtypist

Hola again livekarma! I'll have to ask my daughter if she has ever been in your wife's bakery. We'll look for it on our next trip back as well. I went over your previous notes to alwaysafrica about where good places are to go in Panama. We are real nature lovers, and I would love to see the quetzel in the wild (not caged). I understand up near Vulcan Baru is good for that, is that correct? We never made it out to Bocas Del Toro and would like to go there next visit. Any places that you would recommend there to stay or eat, etc.? Is it better to drive and take a boat/ferry out to an island or just go by small plane to get to Bocas? Have you ever hiked Vulcan Baru? If so, any certain guides that you could recommend and how to contact them. Jen & Richard just went 2 weeks ago and stayed at the Quetzelas Hotel. Said it was too expensive for its quality, but they stopped at an orchid farm...says they have 2000 species of orchids there and also stopped at a horse farm and got to ride bareback on a Clydesdale. I can't wait to go again for another visit but have no definite date set as yet. Which month do you think is ideal for visiting there? We were there 20 days in Nov, and got some pretty heavy down pours of rain with power outage once. I've never seen it rain SO hard! Is the dry season too dry and hot, and too rough for diving? Lots of questions to throw your way. Hope you don't mind. I can't read or hear enough about Panamá...I really had a good first trip and can't wait to go back again!

livekarma

Volcan Baru: The best time to visit Volcan Baru would probably be february or march, especially if you hope to see a quetzal. The lodge at Los Quetzales may be a bit overpriced, but there aren't a whole lot of options out there. If you stay in one of their cabins in the rainforest though, you'll likely love it. It's a pretty unique experience.
Bocas: The drive to almirante (where you get the ferry to isla colon) from david is pretty, but it's also long. I would probably fly if I were you. Sadly, I only know the places there by sight. The best restaurant there is right next to the town square and is on the second floor of the building it's in, with a balcony overlooking the street below. You can't miss it, the town is very small. I'd recommend a trip out to red frog beach while you're there. A water taxi can take you out there and wait for you. Often you'll have the entire white sand beach all to yourself. The red frogs are hard to spot if you don't know what you're looking for, but if you walk across the island and then make a right up the beach, go a hundred yards and then walk back into the woods a short ways, they're around. They're no bigger than your thumb tip though, so be vigilant. Be careful swimming in Bocas; I've done it several times, but the tides and rip currents get funky out there. My friend's father, who was a strong swimmer, drowned there. Sorry to mention such a sad thing, but it's true. Be careful.
P.S. Did you know that Carlos Lee, who is currently one of the best players in baseball, is from Aguadulce?

cmcfong

I will just jump in here and tell you that I saw the quetzal in the wild during February. We stayed at the Panamonte and a guide drove us up for a day trip to the cloud forest. Great place, Panama. I am glad to see more folks discover it.

mtypist

Thank you livekarma and cmcfong for the info. Since your note, I've been researching Bocas more and reading about the red frogs (hmmm...poison?), but they are cute little things, aren't they? It looks like a long drive, but how safe are those "hopper" planes across the country? If we go, we'll take my daughter's new mother-in-law along with us (good friend now to me), and she has never been on a plane; it might be better to drive OR at least drive to David to visit relatives and take a bus to Almirante or Changuinola and then a ferry. If we drove, where would we leave a car if we took a boat out to an island? Would a car be safe there for a few days? Now here's where I get confused...once you're at A. or C. where is the best place to go to stay? Which of the islands out there? Do you know of a good hotel or cabana that has a good sandy beach? I understand there are a lot of mangroves and don't particularly care to stay in a stilted hotel over a mangrove. What about dive tour operators...know of any good ones?

Carlos Lee...what team does he play for? Sorry, I watch only occasionally. My daughter tells me the Balto Orioles have a Panamanian on their team but I can't remember his name at the moment. Maybe I'll get to see him play. I have tickets in August for a game.

Again, any info you can give me on Panamá, I'd love to hear so I can plan our next trip in detail. First trip dealt so much with the wedding preparations, that we were limited in our travels afterwards, but did get to see some of the Caribbean and some of the Pacific side plus the Boquete area.

livekarma

First, I don't think you can take a ferry to Isla Colon from Changuinola. I don't see any point in going there at all, as Almirante's turn off is before you get to Changuinola anyway.
Second, you don't want to stay in Changuinola or Almirante. If you have to stay in one of the two, I would suggest it's Changuinola, though neither is nice, at all. Almirante is actually known for being a dangerous place to be after dark.
Third, you would pay someone in Almirante to keep an eye on the car. That is, you pay someone not to steal or damage it. Kind of like protection money. It's sort of the same thing in Panama City around the nightclubs. We've left brand new Peace Corps land rovers there without a problem.
Fourth, the puddle jumpers can get turbulant. I don't think they're unsafe, but they might scare someone who is already nervous. You could just play it off as exciting. Personally, I would want to try a plane trip if I'd never had the opportunity before, but maybe that's just me.
Fifth, I don't know of any hotels in Bocas town that have beaches. I don't think there are any. The beaches are far from town, or they're on other islands altogether. i.e. red frog.
Sixth, Bruce Chen is a Panamanian pitcher who plays for the Baltimore Orioles, though I don't know what part of Panama he's from. Carlos Lee, the all-star from Aguadule plays for the Milwaukee Brewers.
Seventh, I'm sorry this message doesn't have a particularly encouraging tone to it, but it's all the truth, and it's all just part of the adventure. Good Luck.