Overshadowed Exciting Puebla
 

This year I decided to go south to Oaxaca from my language school in Queretaro for 4 nights prior to travelling further south. However, due to the teacher blockades, Oaxaca was at the moment of my desired travel unenterable. So, I opted to go to Puebla instead.

*Overall thoughts on Puebla*

From the moment I arrived in Puebla, I could see that I had entered a big, exciting city with a pulse much more like New York than I imagined (Calle 5 de Mayo was buzzing with vendors and pedestrians). Interesting & colonial I expected and indeed got, but instead it felt much more like one of the great cities of the world than I had surmised. And it might even be better known in such terms were it not in the shadow of the behemoth that is el DF (Mexico City).

It makes sense in some ways that the home of mole poblano should be somewhere with an electricity about it, but it bizarrely enough had never occurred to me! While I was disappointed initially about not going to Oaxaca, i couldn't have found a better substitute than the Puebla capital!

*Activities in Puebla and nearby Cholula coming up*

We loved Puebla and Cholula. Agree with you that Puebla has a great energy. Poblano people are friendly as well. Look forward to hearing your thoughts on Cholula.

Oh goodie, something to look forward to! I LOVE Puebla, it is one of my very favorite cities, and I love Cholula, esp. on market days. Can't wait for your report. I love Oaxaca too but Puebla is also awesome and unique.

Thanks emd3 and CounterClifton for looking forward! I'm glad to see some Fodor's Forums folks have checked out this gem.

My first evening I had mole poblano at a restaurant right beside my hotel NH Puebla and three different varieties of mole (one with calabaza and pipian, a second with peanut and a third classic chocolate variety. What heaven. I was similarly not disappointed my second evening trying the classic Puebla overstuffed sandwich known as a cemita; divine!

My first night and next day, I explored Puebla proper. The first night, mostly just took in the festive vibe at the central zocalo, admiring the beautiful cathedral lit up at night and the outdoor restaurants surrounding the central zocalo. The pedestrian-only Calle 5 de Mayo had me mesmerized with the vendedores calling out all variety of things "tortaaaas solo quince pesoooos" as the passersby soaked in the energy.

I actually decided to grab a Turibus my first full day, really more than anything to get my bearings! During this ride, I saw not only much handsome Spanish colonial architecture but also the teleferico and the views of the surrounding mountains from the delightful green space 5 de mayo where the Planetarium, Battle of Puebla forts and a number of museums are also located. I had an essentially personal tour at the Centro Interpretativo 5 de Mayo learning about the famous battle of Puebla, its players and the subsequent repercussions.

The next day I caught a rickety bus for 7 pesos 50 to Cholula from the small bus station in Puebla about 10 blocks away from the Zocalo. On the bus ride over, I saw for the first time Popocatépetl in its full snow-capped glory, unobscured by clouds. What a glorious site!

*Cholula to come*

Cholula is one of those places where I feel stunned afterward at my own ignorance. I had this idea that I was going to a "minor pyramid of a minor player in pre-Hispanic times" but decided to go just because it was close to Puebla and I like pre-Hispanic ruins however minor. I imagined the surrounding town Cholula being a dusty place of only minor interest.

Walking from the bus stop toward the church, I quickly saw I was mistaken about the town, which had beautifully painted businesses, a pleasant zocalo and an impressive colonial church adjacent the central plaza.

Visiting the Zona Arqueológica, I visited the adjacent museum and discovered that I couldn't have been more wrong about the Cholula. This city was a major player in pre-Hispanic times with a rich tradition in art, sculpture whose central pyramid had a base larger than the Egyptian pyramids! I found the practice of cranial elongation (for beauty?) fascinating (and eerie) to read about and that they used a seal the size of a police badge to tattoo their bodies. I was amazed to learn that Cholula dated from B.C. and had a Classic Period (0-800) and a Post-Classic period (900-1500s).

The Zona Arqueológica itself freaked me out a little bit and there are long, darkish, narrow tunnels with heights slightly bigger than my 6' tall frame. I felt hemmed in & felt a strange desire to get out of them. Once outside, I thought I'd climb up to see that church "on the hill" to get a better view. And indeed, once at the top at the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, the view of the active volcano Popocatépetl and its extinct volcano lover Ixtaccihuatl with their snow-capped peaks combined with the surrounding scenery must be one of the most beautiful sights I've seen! Coming down the hill eating at a restaurant, it was only then, after, that I learned that I had not climbed a "hill" but rather the overgrown Great Pyramid of Cholula (which apparently was overgrown even in later pre-Hispanic times).

I would definitely recommend a visit to anyone in the Puebla area!

Happy travels! Daniel

I'd like to go back to Puebla sometime. We visited years ago, and it's a city that I'd love to see again. Thanks for posting.

Puebla is my favorite "big" city in Mexico. It's also a great launching pad for exploring Veracruz state, if you can't move on to Oaxaca.

Susan--If you need an excuse to go back, Puebla added a Teleferico (near the Loreto Fort), which is a great way to view the city from a high point (apparently...I tried to go but due to a thunderstorm couldn't).

Baldone--Of the 4 biggest cities, I've not been to Guadalajara. I don't think I can pick a favourite between Monterrey, el DF and Puebla. While it's not all roses anywhere, I find I tend to become enamoured of each of them in the moment I'm there for what they have to offer. :)

If you need a reason to return, try to visit the "Indian Church" of Santa Maria Tonantzintla near Cholula. Every inch of the interior is covered with folk art religious images, painted plaster mostly. However, it is a functioning parish, not simply a tourist site, and if you are lucky you may witness a small service, one of those elusive moments when you catch sight of the life of the country.

FraDiavolo--I'd never even heard of Santa Maria Tonantzintla. Sounds like an amazing experience! I like having excuses to return places!

We loved that church, Fra_Diavolo. One of the most interesting churches I've ever seen. (and I might say, on a quiet weekday, even slightly eerie).

Odd memory from Puebla - I'm sure it has the highest count of optical shops I've ever seen, anywhere. It seemed like there were two or three on every street! Never did figure that out.

I'm actually in Puebla again tomorrow. Owing to blockades in areas I was hoping to travel to, I opted to fly from Guatemala City to el DF (and catch a bus from the airport to Puebla since I'm determined to try that teleferico!) I'll see if checking that church out is a possibility..

CounterClifton--And I'll keep an eye out (all puns intended) for all those optical shops. :)

I also like Puebla. Were you able to get to the Biblioteca Palafoxiana? If not, it's worth a visit. And count me in as another person who was blown away by the Mexican Baroque at Santa Maria Tonantzintla near Cholula. Holy smokes.

So, I've not been inside the Biblioteca Palafoxiana, although the Turibus ride passed in front. I'm in Puebla now and opted to ride the teleférico since we had such a beautiful day; I got great views of Popo, Ixta, Malinche and in the far distance could even see Mexico's tallest Pico de Orizaba. Afterward, I went to the Museo Regional de Puebla, which I would recommend to those who know Spanish at an intermediate level or higher to learn about the history of this region & city. I enjoyed seeing the evolution of artifacts through the millennia in pre-Hispanic society. I was wondering if it would feel like a let-down returning here so soon; not at all...I felt actually so happy to be somewhere familiar after 10 days of exploring unfamiliar places.

There is a cool outdoor train museum in Puebla. i have not been but want to go, as I used to ride trains all over MX before the govt. shut down the train system. There are restored tptrains w elaborate dining cars, lovely brass and wood interiors, etc. the golden age of train travel in MX is preserved there.

Have you eatentacos al pastor ay Las Ranas in Puebla? Heaven on earth.

Alas, I didn't end up having Tacos al Pastor at la Rana or go to the Museo del Ferrocarril but I'll take all of your ideas as a reason to return to Puebla someday.

I had visited the Museo del Ferrocarril in Querétaro however which was a real highlight of my visit there, with an amazing model train set with tons of amusing details (model sheep and cows starved on a hillside) of Mexican scenery. Instead of tacos al pastor, I had some amazing enchiladas con 3 moles and a cemita medieval, an overstuffed sandwich with chipotle relleno con queso. Divina!

Have you had Tacos Aribe on the zocalo, opposite and a bit diagonal from the cathedral entrance yet? Tacos off the spit, similar to al Pastor, but marinated in the Lebanese style. Influence from a long ago Lebanese immigration. Really tasty with the chilli sauce (touch of chocolate, I think).

No, I didn't have the Tacos Arabe, CounterClifton but I wanted to say I *did* notice the opticians! I think I counted *eight* in the two block stretch between my hotel & the zocalo!