Our Quick Trip to Argentina and Chile
 

Our AA (Got tickets with points) flight left Monday 23 Feb on time from central California, arriving in Dallas without incident. We had only an hour to get to a different terminal, and fretted for our luggage, but all was ok. The people movers at DFW really work well, and when we got to the proper gate, the plane was delayed departure, so we had time for a quick sandwich at a food court nearby.

The flight took off one hour late. With a 0955 Tuesday scheduled arrival time BsAs, I had booked a 1630 flight out of AEP for Iguazu Falls, thinking I had plenty of time to get out of EZE and get to the other airport. As the time ticked off prior to takeoff, I began to wonder if I had been too aggressive.

The flight to BsAs was rough, but otherwise uneventful, and the dinner was actually pretty good. But DW says she is continually amazed at the garbage I consider good. With the help of some Ambien, I actually slept about 4 hours.
We landed EZE about 30 minutes late, breezed through customs. After customs, went to Manual Leon Tiendo stand as recommended here, hired a car to AEP for 144 ARG$. Got there a little after 1 PM, and went to the LAN desk. Yes, we have room on the earlier (1330) flight. We even had time for a pretty good meal at the food court at AEP. Plenty of alternatives to pick from. I had what appeared to be a ham and cheese quiche, DW had a ham and chees on a baguette (which she thought was OK!). I was glad we didn´t stop en route for lunch. Would have missed the earlier flight opportunity.

With the earlier flight, had time to do the Circuito Superior after checking into the falls view room of the Sheraton. Were properly impressed with the falls. The weather was not too hot, cloudy, threatening rain. When we got back to the room, feeling a little jet lagged, showered and then watched a thunderstorm pile up over the falls and let go a regular downpour which obliterated the falls. After it cleared, a brilliant rainbow appeared exactly over the hotel on the Brazil side, the roof and spire of which are visible from our third floor room. A stunning end to a long day. We sat in the room and watched in awe at nature´s glory.

The room at the Sheraton was properly appointed for the price. No complaint there, though the air conditioner was either off, or frigid. So we kept it off. Fortunately it was not too hot. The views were stunning. The food was atrocious, especially given the price they charge, the Sheraton name, and the fact that you are pretty much a captive. The second night we thought about getting a cab and going into town, but were too tired. The buffet is a marginally better deal than ala carte. Breakfast is passable, but the bacon and eggs are inedible, even for me. Breakfast and free computer use is included in high price. They had a nice business center set up with several computers available, good connection and speed.

The second day we got the train about 0900 to estacion garganta and walked out the gangway to the falls. Awesome indeed. Took many pictures, and had one of the professionals out there take a picture. 30 $Arg. It´s touristy, yeah, but it was kinda nice. There were throngs of people out there, and we had those little plastic ponchos. Need to have those when you go out there. You will get wet. Can buy them at stores around Iguazu. Returned to the hotel. Rested up and then took the lower walk, circuito inferior, stopping at Dos Hermanos for lunch. The baguette was good, and watching the coati´s was a real hoot. There are dozens of the little devils, and can get pretty aggressive if encouraged with a bit of bread or chips.

We decided not to hike down to the embarcadero for the boat ride, as I was still feeling the effects of a bronchial infection couple of weeks ago, didn´t want to have to climb back up. Felt that we´d seen enough of the the falls, and wandered back to the room, stopping at the many overlooks on the way.

I had arranged by direct call to Sheraton to have a car pick us up at the airport. When he dropped us off, I arranged for him to take us back to the airport on Thursday. (60 $Arg each way.) He picked us up at 0930 for our 1050 flight. The line at LAN was stacked up, and moved slow, but the plane took off only about 10 minutes late, and got in about 10 minutes early. Funny how they do that. There was a real high maintenance American princess (starts with a b) with more luggage than 5 or 6 of us behind her in line put together. Was really upset that she had to pay extra. Must have had couple hundred pounds. Made quite a scene. People like that disgust me.

I had booked 4 nights at 1555 Malabia House through Expedia at $152 US, about $50 less than rack rate. Through emails I confirmed the details of the reservation direct with the hotel. Malabia house has some rooms ensuite and some with private baths, but across the hall. A minor inconvenience for some, but for DW, a deal breaker. I made sure that the room was ensuite. Through the hotel by email, arranged to be picked up at the airport and brought to the hotel. ($60 Arg) Malabia House is on Malabia between Honduras and Gorrity, not too far from AEP.

We were met enthusiatically by Andrea, and though quite early, our room was ready after about 15 minutes. Andrea gave us some orientation and escorted us to our room. It was small, but quite comfortable. The tiny bath was indeed ensuite, and all the comforts, albeit a bit cramped. No problemo though, and I was pleased when DW gave it a thumbs up. Malalbia House is an old building that was once a convent. It is quite narrow, with little street frontage. Breakfast and free computer use 24\7 is included. The connections were fast.

Based on a recommendation from Andrea went right out for lunch at Cluny, just around the corner on Cabrera. We both had salads, sitting out on the sidewalk watching the action on the street. It was an excellent salad. Then we walked for several blocks, just checking out our surroundings. We were impressed with the many security guards present, mostly at restaurants and larger stores. Just about every store had a sale going on. End of summer sales, or signs of the times, even here in Argentina.

Returned to the hotel for much needed nap. Confirmed with Ivana our time tomorrow for a city tour. After a nap, went with Ivana´s recommendation and went to dinner at Lo de Jesus, Gurruchaga 1406 (recommended). Our first real parillo, we had the filet in pepper sauce and gratin potatoes. Outstanding. Again dined outside, finishing about 10 PM, watching the action which picked up the later it got. I had a crepe with apple and rum and ice cream postre (desert), and waddled back to the hotel, stopping briefly to watch some tango lessons in a studio on Armenia Street. At about 10:30 PM, it looked like things were just getting started at the restaurants and bars. But for us old folks, off we trundle.
Friday, our 2 day in Buenos Aires, the first full day. At my request, our hotel booked us on a 4 hour city tour, and we were very happy with the results. They picked us up at 8:30 (which was pretty early after eating dinner at 10PM). At a hotel downtown, we sorted out into our respective mini-busses. Our English speaking group was about a dozen. At Playa de Mayo, we stopped and watched a short video in the bus of the historic things that have taken place in this area. It was excellent and gave us in insight into the soul of Argentina. Then we walked around the plaza for a while.
Next on the route was Porto Madera. Our guide gave a running, humorous commentary. La Boca is very touristy, and we stopped for about 30 minutes walking and took a few pictures. I don´t think anyone in our group bought anything, but you can tell all the tour busses stop here. We then drove through San Telmo, a little bit of Palermo, the embassy district, and finally stopped at la Biela Cafe in the Recolto. That´s where the tour ended about 1 PM.
It was good for us to see the city this way, with the running commentary, as in our short time here, we did not have time to see all of this. Also, based on this tour, we decided we wanted to see the market at San Telmo on Sunday.
We lunched at la biela, which does not accept Master Card, only Visa and Amexp, then walked through the Recoleta cemetary, which is difficult to describe. It is on every tour guide of Buenos Aires. You just have to see it to believe it. We found Evita´s tomb, took many pictures, then took a cab to the hotel, for our requisite nap.
Tonights dinner was La Baita, for Italian, recommended in Fodor´s. Unfortunately, it was not really good. DW rated it just ok.

Saturday, day 3 in BsAs. We got up late, breakfasted leisurely at the hotel with omelettes, cereal, yogurt and fruit. Then we hit the leather shops. With the help(?) of hostess Ivana, Veronica and Andrea, we were directed to the leather goods center of the universe, a 2 or 3 block area around the intersection of Malabia and Murillo. We walked the 15 blocks or so, stopping at a cafe for a coke (actually found a pepsi, much to DW´s delight), which I consider paying for the right to use the bathroom.
There must be two dozen leather stores in this area, and DW, in some kind of nirvana, must have been in them all. She doesn´t shop much, bless her, so when she does, she does so with a purpose and concentration that is hard to describe. She turns into a hunter, every bit as driven as the female lion stalking her prey. In this case it is the skins of dead cows, maybe the one we ate the first night here.
The clerks mostly spoke some English, though my smattering of Spanish really came in handy here. I would like to have been more fluent, though I got into some interesting conversations with some, as we tried to teach each other some of our languages.
(TIP: If you know nothing else, you should get to know the numbers.)
(Medias = stockings - as she tried on some boots.)
She ended up 4 hours later with two purses, a pair of boots and a jacket, all for the stateside price of one of the above. Our hostess claims the same stuff is 2 and 3 times more at the big stores and malls downtown. There is a price, less 10% if cash, and they use a divisor of 3.5 if you want to pay in US dollars. Fortunately, we had brought enough cash along, so just think how much money we saved!!!!
Some might feel bad for DW ´cause she didn´t have a good shopping buddy, but not to worry. We do alright together. She actually asks my opinion, and I actually encouraged her to buy two jackets when she couldn´t make up her mind.
So after a very successful hunt, we took a cab back, after stopping at an ATM machine on Avenida Corrientas to replenish my depleted cash.
That night we sought out na Serapia, recommended here most highly and featured in the Fodor´s guidebook. OK, we might be missing something, and we knew we were headed for a hole in the wall. That didn´t put us off. It really does have a lot of character. But come on gang, we have tons of restaurants in Central California that serve better tamales than this place. One of DW´s friends makes ´em at Christmas and passes them out to friends. So maybe we are spoiled. And the Empanadas, well, lets just say they weren´t our cup of tea. So, we left na serapia with DW glaring at me, and found a cab home.
More to follow.

Thank you, BillJ!

Great trip report and even greater sense of humor!

Let's hear more!

Enjoying your report- looking forward to the rest! Thanks

GOOD REPORT, LOOKING FORWARD TO MORE

Come on BillJ! I'm waiting for the Chile part. Sure hope you did something in Valparaiso!

This is definitely a great report! Thanks very much BillJ, and keep it coming.
tptr

Saturday night continued

After our adventurous but less than satisfactory dinner, we went to a Milonga. Just around the corner from our hotel at Av Scalabrini Ortiz 1331. Salon Canning was recommended by our hotel hostess. We got there about 2230 , told the girls at the door we were just to watch, not dance. (DW and I don't dance well, and she's still a little miffed about dinner.) They said the lessons were still in progress but we could enter but be quiet. Silencio, por favor.
We paid 15 pesos each and were seated at a small table in the second row back from a dance floor. The dance floor must have been about 40' by 40', and there were rows of little tables all around. There was a full bar and a waiter that came around but never hassled us for more drinks. We ordered some water and sat and watched.
The class had about 10 or 12 couples dancing the Tango. It must have been an advanced class, cause they all looked like they were doing alright. The instructor would stop the music once and a while, make some comments, place someone's hand a little different, etc. It was fun to watch.
At 2300 the lessons stopped and non tango music was played, but nobody danced. Since I was a little intimidated, I didn't get up and do some Texas two-stepping. That would have thrilled DW. So I just sat there quietly nursing my water.
More people began to trickle in. At 2330 the tango music started, and the dancers hit the floor. There were some very good dancers that had not been in the class. There were some more tentative. But we remember a couple old guys, maybe late 80's, dressed in suits, very dapper. Danced with every woman, from 20 something to 60 something. And smiled throughout.
This was not a show, but a neighborhood milonga, or tango club, if you will. People come to socialize and dance the tango, 11 - 4:30 every Saturday night.
We watched the action. Eye contact is made across the room. A nod. A returned nod. And from different areas of the tables, a man and a woman meet wordlessly on the dance floor and start tangoing. There are about 3 songs per set, then they go sit down and the guy starts trying eye contact on other women.
There was a solo guy next to us, asked DW in English if we danced, no, we don't. He said not a word more. But we watched as he did the eye contact thing, finally geting a nod from a 40 something single. Out to the floor they went, but oops, they both returned to their seats before the set was over. What happened? We were afraid to ask. Guess somebody doesn't dance very well. The lady cut short another guy, before doing a full set with one of the old guys. Hmmm. Interesting. OUr guy never danced again by the time we left about 1. At that time, the floor and hall were jammed with people dancing the night away. I wondered briefly, very briefly, if I should learn to tango. Naw, I'd probably get shot down like our hapless friend. Reminds me of our junior high dances. Rats!
But it was fun watching the common folks do the tango, and DW was happy again as we walked home.

Sunday, 3rd and last full day in Buenos Aires. About noon, after another omelette, fruit and granola breakfast at our hotel, got a cab to Museo Eva Peron. On our city tour, we had become facinated with this lady, who died about 1955. The museum is in an old house near Parque Las Heras, on Lafinur. It costs 12 pesos each to get in. There is a cafe in the back. Each room is filled with memorabilia and historical items from her time. The exhibits are in Spanish, but in each room a placard on the wall gives the story in English.
There are several videos with English subtitles, including some of her recorded speeches. Our curiosity has been raised and we vowed to check her story out in more detail when we get home. We found her story facinating and compelling, a lady with a huge importance to modern Argentinian history.
We grabbed a cab and headed for the Sunday market at Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. We passed many of the landmarks we had seen on the tour, and were now beginning to get the lay of the land. Feeling more confident in moving around the city. Again saw Plaza de Mayo and the Pink House, Plaza San Martin, etc.
Plaza Dorrego was covered with booths. There was the expected collection of junk and trinkets, and a circus atmosphere prevailed. Musicians, magicians, dancers and hucksters vied for your attention, and money. But I tell you, serious antique or collectible hunters would go nuts in this place. Huge collections of silver ware, table ware, and vintage items abounded. There was some real stuff here. But after yesterday, we weren't in the buying mood.
BEfore long, we noticed the vendors getting out the tarps and covers. We looked up at the threatening skies and decided to head for a restaurant. We found a parillo in the inside corner of the square (forgot the name, but recommend it. You can't miss it.) (Helpful, uh?)
We had a terrific Bife de lomo (filet) and salad. The rain, lightening, and thunder struck with a vengence. We were glad to have beat the crowd into finding shelter.
After lunch, about 4, we found most of the serious booths were being dismantled. So we walked down Humberto street enjoying musicians and magicians. The further you get from Plaza Dorrego, the tackier things get, now mostly just a blanket on the street.
The architecture in the area is very impressive, but many of the buildings are crumbling, and showing signs of age and neglect.
We returned to the hotel and packed up for tomorrow's departure. (6:30 wake up call. DW glared at me again) Arranged for a car to come pick us up about 8:30, and reserved a room for 10 days hence when we come back to BsAs for one night before flying back to US.
About 8 we went down to the corner for a mean apple crepe with ice cream. DW had a chocolate lava cake with ice cream, and she was happy again.
That night a major storm rolled through, pretty much all night, which kept us awake some. It was fierce.
So that's it for Buenos Aires. It was great fun and educational. We were glad we did it. Three full days on the ground seemed enough for us. But certainly, there is much more to see.
Tomorrow we fly to Santiago, then down to Patagonia.

Thanks for your report, BillJ. I hope to spend more than 3 days in BsAs but it's nice to know how much can be squeezed into the shorter time frame.

Bill and DW:

So glad you made the most of your short time in Buenos Aires. One has a different focus and expectation for a 3-day visit than for a longer one, and this was an excellent trip report -amusing, interesting and informative. Now, we may consider those Tango lessons and Milonga! Many thanks & safe travels.

~MarnieWDC

Nice report, looking forward to the rest!

Last night we learned a new word: lluvia. pronounced shoovia, means rain. Mucho lluvia.

Our early get up and go worked well, and we were at EZE in plenty of time. I had booked LAN with their South America Pass, which allowed me 5 legs for about $770 US. The first leg, BsAs to Santiago left EZE at 0900. After booking the tickets, I went on line, signed up for their frequent flyer program, and then went in and changed our seats. On every leg, we both have window seats.

On this leg I didn't feel bad, as there were several empty seats in the back. Impressive coming over the Andes, and not what we expected, but very dramatic. Very stark with little if any vegetation. Steep ravines and canyons. Little snow until the crest, this being the end of summer down here. Spotted a small glacier, and a few tiny lakes as we came down the west side.

Clearing customs in Santiago is very time consuming. First you must pay the reciprocity fee of $131. (We started charging 131, so they reciprocate.) If you us US$, must be crisp new bills, nothing dog earred or torn, but you can also use credit cards, which I did.

Then you get in another line to go through customs, then to the luggage retrieval, then through another gate check. Took us 1.5 hours. And it was hot and stuffy. The driver of our car said he usually waits up to 2 hours. I had arranged through our hotel to be met by a car. Cost about $35 US.

Our hotel was Hotel Orly, in Providencia, booked direct via email and fax, $110 US per night, including breakfast. One of Fodors favorites. And we weren't disappointed. Cumputers can be used in the hotel. Room and hotel is definately European in feel, but we have a front room with double pane windows and good blackout curtain. Bed is comfortable, room good sized, bath clean and looks new. Shower a bit iffy, but once hot water is flowing, is just fine. Recommended in Fodors, and I concurr. So does DW.

After checking in gettinig a snack at the hotel restaurant, and Resting a bit, walked up to the cable car (Teleferia) in Parque Metropolitano. Rode it to the top of the hill, spent some time up there. It was hot in town, but cool and breezy up here. Then took the funicular down to Bellavista, and had fun walking around there for a while. About 9, found Azul Profundo for dinner. Out of sea bass (DW is not happy, its her favorite) but settled on a decent grouper. The lettuce was the best she had seen in South America. We started thinking of all the groceries we now buy from Chile.

Wednesday, the first full day in Santiago, we scheduled a 4 hour city tour. We were in a car with a driver and a guide, and while it cost a bit more than a larger group, it was ever so much worth it. Walked around many of the downtown areas. Marcello got us in to many buildings, including the supreme court building. We learned much history from him, and pretty much did the high points of the city.

After the tour, went to Mare Nostrum, a few blocks from our hotel. A little more expensive than other restaurants in the area, but man, so good. Here, DW got her cherished sea bass, smothered in a white cream sauce and artichokes and scallops and I don't know what all. She is very happy. And one of the best salads she has had in many months, with tomatoes that taste like tomatoes should.

But wait, there's more.

Our hotel host told us of the lapis center of the universe, and the lioness returned to DW. I saw the look immediately. So back to Bellavista, on Bellavista street, roughly between Pio Nono and Capellan Arborzua, there must be 20 shops specializing in lapis and other semi precious stones. The huntress did her business. Some of the shops offered about 15% off if paid in cash (vs credit card). Once again, we 'saved' a whole lot of money.

Once again, if you come down here, at least learn your numbers. Helps a lot and you can have a great deal of fun (I mean that in a good way) with the clerks. I had a whale of a time with several clerks trading spanish and english. It was great.

I learned the spanish names for necklass, earring, pendant. Very educational. But I think the Spanish class at my local junior college is maybe not so expensive. Si?

Sated on sea bass and lapis, we returned to the hotel. Rain clouds threatened, and it rained some (pocitio lluvia) on our way.

Tomorrow another early wake up. 6 am. Plane to Punta Arenas leaves at 9. Must now pack and get ready for forcasted 11 celsius, 20mph wind in Punta Arenas. Friday to Magdelena to see the penguins.

This is where we will meet our son, who has been out on and ice breaker research vessel for two months. He will give us a tour, then join us for our next few legs; Ushuaia and El Calafate, before he returns to Chile. We have not seen him for quite a while, and this is the main reason for our trip to South America.

Next chapter will be on Patagonia.

Keep up the good reporting, BillJ!

And be sure to keep DW happy! LOL!!

Have a great time in Argentina with your son!

Looking forward to the Patagonia part, we're heading down in 12 days and counting.....Any advice on El Calafate will be most appreciated.

When we flew from Ushuaia - Punta Arenas (in 2005), we were not charged the $131.00 entrance fee, (I think they collected $20 each from us) I figured since we were coming from AR and not the US, the rules/fee must be different...or maybe things have changed since them.

Posting this report on the fly in haste has caused a major ommission which I hope to rectify now. Everywhere we are impressed with the graciousness of the people in Buenos Aires and Santiago. We have had other patrons get out of their seat and offer to help with menus, or pedistrians stopping on the street and help us as we stand there like a couple of lost souls trying to figure which way is up on the map.
Every time I try a little espanol, I get smiles. And some laughter as we try to learn a little each other´s language. It´s charming and exciting and a whole lot of fun.
In everywhere we walked, we never felt threatened. Taxi drivers are all efficient, if sometimes a little less than friendly, which I put down to language differences. Never once got into a problem with taxi´s and hailed many on the street. (Always used Radio Cab in Buenos Aires. Any cab in Santiago.)
We are enjoying the heck out of this trip. We think both Buenos Aires and Santiago are wonderful cities to explore and learn about. We are sad that we have not more time. 3 full days in Buenos Aires, and 1 full day in Santiago, is pitifully short time. But what can I say. We came and saw, were duly impressed with some of our South American neighbors.
Thanks to all here, avrooster, drdawgy, and all the rest that post here, for the invaluable assistance. Oh, yeah, and our trustworthy Fodor´s books also. Couldn´t have done it with out you all.
Marnie: Yes three days is way too short, and I didn´t mean to suggest that it did the city justice. But we did get to see many of the highlights in our short time.
Brahmama: sorry, no Valapraiso. Met many Americans in airports headed there for cruises. But for us, not this time.
Owlwoman: The reciprocity fee was started when we started charging the $131. Don´t know how long.

Oh yeah, I just remembered the name of the restaurant in Plaza Dorrego, Buenos Aires, that served up a great Choizo Lomo (filet) on the rainy sunday at the market (see above): Pergola. Recommend, yes I do.

OK; now to Wednesday. Another smooth on time flight Lan Santiago to Punta Arenas, though the early morning wake up (6am) is not cool. We had window seats on the left side, and saw some wonderful landscape, but cloudy and hazy most of the way so no dynamic scenery. The quick glimpse of Torres de Paine was partially obscured by clouds, and glare from looking directly into the sun.
Landed on time, caught a cab to downtown (7.000 pesos) to Hotel Jose Nogueiro, where we found our icebreaker son sitting in the restaurant waiting for us. Great reunion.
Had my first lomitas equesa for lunch. Outstanding.
He had to go back to the boat, but we´re set up for a great Chilean dinner tonight, and tomorrow will tour the ice breaker and go out to Isla Magdalena and commune with 120,000 or so penguins.
More later.
Hasta luego.

Thank you, BillJ!

About your: "Thanks to all here, avrooster, drdawgy"

Please correct ASAP. DrDawggy is the universally acknowledged TOP Argentina expert on the Internet. He gets furious when he doesn't get credit as such. He may even stop posting!

Just kidding. LOL!!!

Yes, you're going to get hit with $131 US (if you're flying on a US passport now.) It's good for the life of the passport at least.

I noticed flying between Santiago and Punta Arenas, if you want to take photos, sit where you are looking away from the sun. If you're lucky and it's clear, it's almost as good as a glacier flightseeing tour.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann...eat=directlink

Bill, tell your fish loving DW to be sure to try congrio when in Punta Arenas.

avrooster: I may have upset DrDawggy when I panned his favorite dive, na Serapia. I meant it in good fun. It was a cool place with a lot of personality. The large senora (owner) spoke little English, but after a while she and I got along great and were laughing with the cook in the back. Maybe they were laughing at me?, no, didn´t feel like that. They are very nice people. :)
I do recognize Dr´s authoritative commentaries here.

I arranged a car through the hotel for the early morning ride to the Santiago airport. $25 US to go to the airport, $35 when they pick you up. It´s because when they pick you up they have to wait up to 2 hours for international arrivals. You could save that by just taking a taxi to the hotel. I don´t know what that would be.
We had seats on the right side of the airplane, and yes, mlgb, as you say the sun is on that side, so picture taking and viewing was hampered. But, clouds and haze were very thick all the way, and more so on the right side, so I don´t think we missed much. We did get a glimpse of Torres del Paine through the clouds, but that´s it.
After seeing our son at the Hotel Jose Nogueira, we had lunch and he went back to work on the ship. We got oriented and walked a bit. The square, half a block away, has a statue of Magellan and on one side is a native. The deal is you touch his toe and you will return to Punta Arenas. We saw this once on those Samantha Brown travel shows. So yeah, we touched the toe. Son says before each sailing, all the crew comes to touch the toe, to make sure they DO come back from their voyage!!!! Mom (DW) felt better then.
We then walked up the street to the top of the hill, which is quick a little jaunt, but were rewarded with great panorama of the city and the ocean beyond. The wind was calm, it wasn´t too cold, maybe in the low 50´s.
That night we dined at La Marmita, not in the guide books, but Son´s favorite place. DW wants fish, yes, and tonight she is faced with the offering of an appetizer: Congria. Now DW is an avid snorkeler, and she is terrified of only one thing; eels. She swims with sharks, rays, etc., but show her an eel, especially a big green Moray eel with his head and large teeth sticking out of a coral, and she basically freaks. OK, so son orders the congria, and she finally screws up the courage for a little taste. Well, how ´bout that. She loves it. (Yes, mlgb, she likes it) Better than the salmon. Could it have been the pisco sour with berries? Nah, couldn´t have been. The berries were the barra berry, red and sweet. My first pisco sour was very good. Need to learn the recipe.
Thursday: Next day the winds were howling. Were to meet son on the boat at 11, so walked some more around town. Bought stamps at the post office next door for a post card or two.
Un sello de correo, por favor.
I thought I was doing alright. The clerk laughed a little.
sesho, she says, not seyoo.
See up in California, we learn a little Mexican Spanish, and two LL´s together is pronounced like a Y. But here in South America, two LL´s are pronounced like a ´sh´as in shoe.
So: sello de correo (stamp) is pronounced sesho
LLuvia (rain) is Shuvia
Collar (neclace) is coshar.
OK, class enough Spanish for today.
Went to the LAN office nearby, checked on a couple of reservations, then continued our walk-about.
Turismo Comapa is on the corner by the Plaza with the toe. They have all kinds of info and book lots of different excursions and cruises. We had booked a trip to Isla Magdelena for 4:30 to go out and see 120,000 penguins or so.
At 11 we went to Son´s Ice Breaker Research Vessel, the Nathan B Palmer, and got a tour. They are changing crews, some coming off like Son, and others going on and getting organized. Met several of the scientists at breakfast at the hotel that morning, saw them again on the boat. STudying ice bergs and why the glaciers on Western Antarctica are calving at vastly increased rates. Disturbing some of the facts they relayed to us. Very interesting conversations.
Of course the tour was incredibly interesting. Instruments on board had the winds at 30 to 35 mph. Walking later in the afternoon, DW was almost lifted off her feet as we rounded the corner of a building. While not that cold, maybe high 40´s. wind chill was definately an issue.
Later checked in with Turismo Comapa, and the ferry to Isla Magdelena is cancelled due to high winds. Dissappointed, but maybe a little relieved. Instead, booked a van ride out to Seno Otway and went back to Lomita for Lomitas and beer.
Seno Otway is about an hour´s ride in a van. We had an English speaking guide who was informative on the way out.
There is a 1.5 km loop trail with three observation posts. But the little critters are all around as you walk out on the boardwalk. The first stop is the best, with several on a rocky beach, some just coming in from feeding at sea. It was incredibly windy, so after the first stop, DW returned to the little cafe for a coke. Son and I continued on the walk, and saw several more little Magellanic penguins in their burrows. DW thought it was a lot to go through for a few penguins. Too bad about Magdalena.
After about an hour, we drove back to Punta Arenas, getting back about 8 and having a great dinner at the hotel. During the ride out, saw several Rhea´s grazing, stopped the van and took some pics.
Today.s my birthday! We leave (now 3 of us) to Ushuaia.
I will post hotel reviews in the hotel section when I get home.

What I meant, BillJ, is that drdawggy should ALWAYS get top billing.

NEVER say "Thanks to all here, avrooster, drdawggy"

You should say, instead: "Thanks to all here, drdawggy and lesser others"

Otherwise he gets upset and we wouldn't want that, would we?

Just kidding. We are having lunch together in a little while. LOL!!!!

Thank you for another great chapter, BillJ.