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Oaxaca City Report

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Old Jun 17th, 2007, 08:00 AM
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Oaxaca City Report

Just as a matter of info. I just came back from a couple of weeks in Oaxaca City. The City has been completely cleaned up from last year and I had a great time as I have been having for many years. One thing that was obvious to me was how badly the economy has suffered due to last years protests. With the exception of the Zocalo, the many bars and restaurants are really hurting. Rarely are there more than a couple of people in any establishment off the Zocalo. There are also a lot more unemployed people in a state that already has high unemployment. There were more kids out than ever begging and trying to sell chicles and little handicrafts. Although the people as suffering, as a tourist, there are discounts on everything everywhere that I have never seen before. My hotel, which was almost empty, was happy to cut me a deal on the room when they found out I was staying a while. There are lots of deals in the bars an restaurant too. Like 10 beers for 90 pesos, etc. As far as safety, it was no different than ever, no problems whatsoever. Likewise I encountered no one that had had any problem. July 14th was the anniversary of the government attack on the protesters. Possibly 4000 or so people marched into the Zocalo from the direction of the airport. The police left and they trashed the Zocalo leaving garbage and putting graffiti on all the buildings including the cathedral. They left by about 5 p.m. and did not set up camp or erect barricades as threatened.. By the next morning, the graffiti had been painted over and the Zocalo back to normal. APPO is threatening to stop the Guelaguetza, but I am not sure they have the momentum. Most Oaxacans I met with are really mad at anyone who protested last year due to the economic damage. In sum, if you like Oaxaca or would like to go I would head on down. You can help the tourist economy, get some good deals, and see Oaxaca with fewer tourists that normal. If you wanted to be super cautious you might pass on the Guelaguetza. I am planning to go back for Christmas.
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Old Jun 17th, 2007, 12:35 PM
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Thanks for your report on Oaxaca City, although their economic situation does not yet sound good. Tourism is such a huge part of their income and I hope we who love Oaxaca return very soon.
Are the fabulous marimba bands playing in the zocalo at night? Did you get to any of the outlying arts-rich villages such as San Antonio Arrazola, San Martín Tilcajete, or Teotitlán del Valle? If so, how are they doing?
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Old Jun 17th, 2007, 01:06 PM
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As far as music in the Zocalo there is more than I have ever seen. There was a band concert every day in addition to the marimbas, mariachis, Andean style musicians, etc. Between langauge school and some work I was doing there I never left the city itself. I would have to think that the economic situation in the various villages in the Oaxaca valley is rough as tourism is down. A friend who lives in OAX and leads tours to Teotitlan de Valle said they are really hurting economically as the only people buing tapetes are dealers buying in bulk, but no tourists. Times are hard for Oaxacans for sure.
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Old Jun 21st, 2007, 02:56 PM
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Well, what a difference a couple of weeks make. 7,000 protesting teachers have now set up camp in Oaxaca's Zocalo - making it not a very nice place for tourists . . . and this is an area where most tourists congregate. There was also a march of tens of thousands of protesters. No, the problems aren't over - but let's keep our fingers crossed the violence of 2006 doesn't see the light of day the remaining days of 2007, or thereafter.
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Old Jun 21st, 2007, 04:43 PM
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I was planning to go to one of the spanish language schools next. Doesn't sound like a very good idea now.
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 08:44 AM
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I don't think you should eliminate Oaxaca from your language school plans, just yet. Though the Zocalo has its protesters, no additional disruptions or violence is being reported. With some luck, this will be a relatively quiet summer. Though, if you plan to be in Oaxaca in August, be aware that state elections will take place (not for governor, though) and protests could occur more vigerously.
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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 02:09 PM
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We are heading to Oaxaca July 13, 2007 to meet my daughter's boyfriend- she met him while studying there 2 summers ago. He recently e-mailed us to let us know that this teacher's strike is going on again and that he hoped it would be safe. I am a little nervous- can anyone give me an idea of just how dangerous it could be? We are staying at a hotel right by the zocalo and I want to make sure we're not right in the middle of something scary. Thanks for any information anyone has.
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Old Jun 27th, 2007, 02:45 PM
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It was rumored that things were going to start up again shortly after we left, from your reports the rumors were true. As far as going there its hard to say. We were there a year ago in mid-july when the downtown had been taken over and was under the control of the protesters and we had no trouble other than inconvienience. Apparently it did deteriorate further after we left and I was just as glad we weren't there then. I think a big issue this year is whether the protesters will try to block the Galaguetza as promised. That would be sure to generate some problems. As far as going, I would go feel it out. If I didn't like the ways things were looking I would bus up to Puebla or elsewhere. If I was going for the first time I'm not sure what I would do.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2007, 08:01 PM
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Bummer. We have been trying to figure out our family vacation and finally decided on Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido for the first week of August. Doesn't sound like this may be the best plan. Anybody know anything else?
Also, if we do could, suggestions of excusions to take at these two places? I speak fairly good spanish and we are travelling with 3 teenagers. The boys love boogie boarding and my daughter loves shopping.
Also, thoughts on renting a car for most of the trip or is it better just to bus or fly? Thanks.
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Old Jul 4th, 2007, 04:40 AM
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hi, I havent been to oaxaca for a while so cant report on that city, except if you daughter is into shopping she will find beautiful marktets and things there. Puerto Escondido, wow, what a place, wonderful. Hope your daughter is into surfers and beach etc, not much else there in way of shops etc, good small restaurants and bars etc though. There are bikini shops etc sure but its not a place you'd go to for the shopping. As for hiring a car, i wouldnt consider it a possibility for between oaxaca and puerto escondido, and dont do the bus trip by night, prefer to go by day. The roads are very windy, narrow and always needing work. Not many signs, good places to stop off etc. You can fly to puerto esc, better and faster option or bus it. Takes a fair few hours though. Can take all day, depending on where t goes via! Check it out that its the "fast" one. Near Puerto are more beach places, waterfally, lagoons etc. Lovely part of the country.
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Old Jul 5th, 2007, 05:39 AM
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As fas as the OAX/PE questions about renting a car or flying, in my opinon you would be crazy to rent a car unless you are experienced driving in the area. Besides the difference in driving and the bad roads to PE keeping you vechicle secure when you stop in various rural places is a big issue. I would take a first class bus to PE. Another option are the Suburbans which depart from Oaxaca City to PE and get you there faster than the bus. Stuff to see in the Oaxaca valley, get a guidebook, but the standards are Monte Alban, Mitla, Yagul, Teotitlan de Valle, Tule, Ocotlan, Zachilla, and many more. All worthwhile if you have not been there. To visit these, again local transport is cheap and abundant- buses, taxis and collectivos.
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Old Jul 5th, 2007, 08:28 PM
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Thanks for the help. Just one more question - we want a few days on a beach and from what I've read, Puerto Escondido looks like a better choice with 3 teenagers instead of Huelteco or Puerto Angel. I would love a moderately priced hotel right on the beach, preferable with air conditioning. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Old Jul 6th, 2007, 07:05 AM
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The most recent reports from Oaxaca are that protesters have been interrupting traffic coming into the city from Mexico City, Veracruz and Chiapas to the south. Some busses were hijacked and used to block a major highway/crossing point. Local businesses in the Zocalo are reporting an infestation of rats and/or other rodents, flies, and a strong odor of decaying garbage . . . the result of the protesters who've set-up camp in one section of the square. Merchants in the city, and in outlying areas - such as Mitla - are reporting very slow business and many small businesses continue to struggle - with some closing. Activities in the next several weeks will give a better indication whether or not it will be a Long Hot Summer, or just one where some minor inconveniences take place. If you're taking a bus into Oaxaca, check with the bus company before setting out on the journey to see if any disruptions are taking place which may delay your arrival - or cause you to be dropped-off outside of town (after which you'll have to make you way to your destination, on your own).
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Old Jul 6th, 2007, 12:32 PM
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hi, ive replied to this re puerto escondido but it doesnt appear at the bottom, please click on post a reply so all appear at the side so it can be read.
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Old Jul 6th, 2007, 12:33 PM
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hi, yes I def recommend puerto escondido. PE is divided into various areas, main central bit has marinero beach, busy and not so great, further along, the surfers area -zicatela, fabulous, out of centre - carrizalillo, lovely beach on cove, and then bacocho, if you look on this site you'll see:http://www.puertoescondidoinfo.com/peattract.asp
also has live web cam on beach all day, makes you fall in love with place already
as for hotels, depends how much you want to pay, air conditioning is not available in all, fans are. If you dont mind getting taxis etc to restaurant, bar, people watching area at night etc you can stay out of centre and chose zicatela or cariz. Check out hotel flor de maria, Villa Mozart y Macondo,depends on how much you want to spend, there's the santa fe,and the bungalows in front. Have fun ! Go to el cafecito for breakfast at least, lunch and snacks fab too.
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Old Jul 26th, 2007, 03:44 PM
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We just came back from Oaxaca a week ago. Any apprehensions I had were gone immediately. There was a bit of protesting going on and one tense moment, but it passed quickly. I would recommend this cultural city for anyone. Everything seemed to be open, the Zocalo was beautiful and the people are some of the kindest, humblest people I have met. I would go back in a heartbeat. Santa Domingo is beautiful, Monte Alban is breathtaking and the black pottery is unique. What a great place! We did go in the rainy season- it did rain! Also- go see a Oaxaca Guerreros baseball game- that's what baseball should be like!!!
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Old Jul 26th, 2007, 04:44 PM
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When is the governor up for re-election?
 
Old Jul 26th, 2007, 07:26 PM
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Dude: did you attend Becari while you were there this year? What has happened with the school since all the problems the last year? Many other students attending?
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Old Jul 27th, 2007, 11:52 AM
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I can answer the Becari question, at least when I was there in June. There were 14 students. I was in a class with one other. It was great for learning, I feel bad for the directors as business is way down.
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Old Jul 29th, 2007, 11:19 AM
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One has to ask him/herself "What kind of vacation do I want." If you're a social activist and want to do something to aid the protests, well, it's illegal to do that - but you can visit and pay money for services and that will support some small businesses. Most businesses, however, are being ruined by the protests and all of the support right now from foreigners won't help them. Many businesses have cut-back hours, some closed and there are some less than pleasant conditions in the center of the city. You can visit, however, and stay away from the city center - but is that what you want to do? Mexico has so many other places that are no less interesting than Oaxaca. Oaxaca is the creation, largely, of a huge and expensive public relations campaign - efforts other worthy destinations don't benefit from. Let the local people work this thing out for themselves. Oaxaca will be there in the future - maybe even better for the struggle.
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