Montreal-Mexico City: Awed and Overwhelmed by Mexico City. Part 1.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 02:29 PM
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Montreal-Mexico City: Awed and Overwhelmed by Mexico City. Part 1.
I was a bit intimidated arriving at the Terminal del Norte (for autobuses) in Mexico City, my introduction to el DF. I knew from Monterrey to go to the TAQUILLA to get tickets to ride on the Taxis Seguros. Walking outside, I was a little confused at first since there were 10 numbered lineups with about 4-6 people waiting in each; at first I thought the numbers were for the various zones... I was going to Zone 3, so I waited in Line 3. Then I saw the efficiency of the system; to move passengers as quickly as possible, 10 taxis were let in at a time, passengers were let in to the taxis, and then the 10 taxis would depart, allowing the next group of 10 to come in. My "Line 3" had nothing to do with zones but rather that I would be getting in the 3rd taxi of the group of 10.
My hotel, the Hotel Maria Cristina, was comfortable, classy and pretty with a courtyard, marble staircase and well-planned Nativity Scene. I thought for the quality of the housekeeping and rooms that the 570 pesos a night was extremely reasonable.
The next morning (Dec 31st), I discovered how incredibly well-situated I was, only 1 block from the Paseo de la Reforma and within 10 minutes walking distance of the Zona Rosa. Walking to the Paseo de la Reforma, I could not believe how beautiful this grand boulevard was, what with the Monumento Cuauhtemoc and the glorieta Monumento de la Independencia. I felt almost transported to Paris here except that the boulevard was lined with palms and ornately beautiful Nativity scenes. Looking up at the beautiful blue skies surrounding me, the grandeur of the boulevard and my general comfort level as a pedestrian, I felt almost angry at the widespread preconception of *crime and pollution*, which are the only words some people had to say when I told them I was going to Mexico City.
I was within maybe 12 minutes walk to Insurgentes metro station from my hotel, which made exploring quite straightforward. I still can't believe that for only 2 pesos, I could whiz around the city on the efficient metro lines. I also couldn't believe that I saw ruins at Pino Suarez metro station where I transferred to go to the Zocalo, which was the first stop on my itinerary. Some people had warned me not to take the Metro, but generally speaking, I felt pretty comfortable, but always blocked access to my front pocket wallet with my bag and emptied it of most cards and money as a precaution. I found the constant stream of perambulating vendors through the metro wagons something I wasn't expecting and had not seen in any other city. The image of blind men selling music that they'd play for you, children selling candies with an adult supervision is etched in my memory. I imagine it might be hard to get in a bit of sleep riding the Metro home...
The Zocalo had an intensity the likes of which I've rarely experienced. Stands crowded close to each other, selling tacos, jewelry, cloth, juices, elotes; the crowd intimidated me a bit on first sight. I instantly was struck though by the beauty and age of the Sagrario and the Catedral Metropolitana. I migrated slowly toward the cathedral and was somewhat glad to escape the chaos of the market into the more tranquil meditative confines of the cathedral. Pace by pace, I was blown away by the ornate gold beauty of each Capilla, many built in the 1600s, with inlaid portraits or porcelain-seeming baby angels or saints in bas relief, and in one case, the reliquary of bones of long-dead saints. I happened to step in during a mass; the spreading of the incense, the blue or red cassocks of the priests, the ritual movements of all involved... amidst such beauty was kind of mesmerizing to observe.
Exiting the cathedral, I wanted to get a good angle to photograph the whole building. Crossing the circular to get to the center of the Plaza de la Constitucion was more challenging than I'd imagined, but I finally managed. Looking toward the Palacio Nacional and around at the season-decorated government buildings (ready for el Dia de los Reyes), I was awed by the history and grandeur of the central Zocalo. One might have thought it was Europe, until the eye caught the mestizoness of most surrounding, until one's eyes peered on a group of Aztec dancers with masks and face painting chanting and doing acrobatic dance moves (quite impressive), until one saw an Aztec priestess with a smoking crucible doing a ritual that some Mexicans seemed to be paying for, until an Indio kid pulled at your shirt to get your attention, until the eyes reglanced at the imagery of the surrounding stalls of vendors. I was completely captivated and walked north to the Templo Mayor.
To be continued....
My hotel, the Hotel Maria Cristina, was comfortable, classy and pretty with a courtyard, marble staircase and well-planned Nativity Scene. I thought for the quality of the housekeeping and rooms that the 570 pesos a night was extremely reasonable.
The next morning (Dec 31st), I discovered how incredibly well-situated I was, only 1 block from the Paseo de la Reforma and within 10 minutes walking distance of the Zona Rosa. Walking to the Paseo de la Reforma, I could not believe how beautiful this grand boulevard was, what with the Monumento Cuauhtemoc and the glorieta Monumento de la Independencia. I felt almost transported to Paris here except that the boulevard was lined with palms and ornately beautiful Nativity scenes. Looking up at the beautiful blue skies surrounding me, the grandeur of the boulevard and my general comfort level as a pedestrian, I felt almost angry at the widespread preconception of *crime and pollution*, which are the only words some people had to say when I told them I was going to Mexico City.
I was within maybe 12 minutes walk to Insurgentes metro station from my hotel, which made exploring quite straightforward. I still can't believe that for only 2 pesos, I could whiz around the city on the efficient metro lines. I also couldn't believe that I saw ruins at Pino Suarez metro station where I transferred to go to the Zocalo, which was the first stop on my itinerary. Some people had warned me not to take the Metro, but generally speaking, I felt pretty comfortable, but always blocked access to my front pocket wallet with my bag and emptied it of most cards and money as a precaution. I found the constant stream of perambulating vendors through the metro wagons something I wasn't expecting and had not seen in any other city. The image of blind men selling music that they'd play for you, children selling candies with an adult supervision is etched in my memory. I imagine it might be hard to get in a bit of sleep riding the Metro home...
The Zocalo had an intensity the likes of which I've rarely experienced. Stands crowded close to each other, selling tacos, jewelry, cloth, juices, elotes; the crowd intimidated me a bit on first sight. I instantly was struck though by the beauty and age of the Sagrario and the Catedral Metropolitana. I migrated slowly toward the cathedral and was somewhat glad to escape the chaos of the market into the more tranquil meditative confines of the cathedral. Pace by pace, I was blown away by the ornate gold beauty of each Capilla, many built in the 1600s, with inlaid portraits or porcelain-seeming baby angels or saints in bas relief, and in one case, the reliquary of bones of long-dead saints. I happened to step in during a mass; the spreading of the incense, the blue or red cassocks of the priests, the ritual movements of all involved... amidst such beauty was kind of mesmerizing to observe.
Exiting the cathedral, I wanted to get a good angle to photograph the whole building. Crossing the circular to get to the center of the Plaza de la Constitucion was more challenging than I'd imagined, but I finally managed. Looking toward the Palacio Nacional and around at the season-decorated government buildings (ready for el Dia de los Reyes), I was awed by the history and grandeur of the central Zocalo. One might have thought it was Europe, until the eye caught the mestizoness of most surrounding, until one's eyes peered on a group of Aztec dancers with masks and face painting chanting and doing acrobatic dance moves (quite impressive), until one saw an Aztec priestess with a smoking crucible doing a ritual that some Mexicans seemed to be paying for, until an Indio kid pulled at your shirt to get your attention, until the eyes reglanced at the imagery of the surrounding stalls of vendors. I was completely captivated and walked north to the Templo Mayor.
To be continued....
Jan 23rd, 2005, 01:35 PM
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Great posts. Mexico City can be intimidating at first (and later!) - the first time I was there, I thought I had lost my passport and I actually starting hyperventilating.
We've got 1 night there scheduled at the end of our trip in March. I know I'll wish I had planned for more time - there is always so much to see and do there.
I'm so glad you enjoyed your trip.
We've got 1 night there scheduled at the end of our trip in March. I know I'll wish I had planned for more time - there is always so much to see and do there.
I'm so glad you enjoyed your trip.
Jan 23rd, 2005, 02:17 PM
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Thanks Poppa, LePage and Susan for your enthusiasm (and Poppa for the clarification!). That's what keeps me writing these trip reports. It's all completed now...although I'm sure I missed some highlights.
ˇFeliz año a todos ustedes!
PS Wishing you a great time in March Susan!
ˇFeliz año a todos ustedes!
PS Wishing you a great time in March Susan!
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