Mexico City-Morelia-Patzcuaro-Zihua Trip Report

Old Jun 4th, 2007, 03:26 PM
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Mexico City-Morelia-Patzcuaro-Zihua Trip Report

We just returned from a fantastic Mexico trip. We spent 2 nights in Mexico City, 1 night in Morelia, 1 night in Patzcuaro, and 5 nights in Zihuatanejo.

Day 1: We had a 6 am flight from Oakland to Houston with a 2.5 hour layover before heading to Mexico City. Spent the time in Houston in the Presidents Club where we met an ex-pat couple who have been married for 56 years and live in Cuernevaca. They were hysterical. We landed in Mexico City around 4:30 pm, bought a taxi ticket, and headed to the Condesa DF hotel. Everyone at the hotel was incredibly friendly and nice. We were headed to the rooftop for a cocktail but it started raining so we took a nap instead. Had dinner at Hip Kitchen. The best part was the empanada appetizers. The meal was fine but nothing outstanding. After dinner we walked back to the hotel, made a couple wrong turns, walked some more and finally arrived. Things were just getting started at the hotel but, thanks to my newly acquired blisters, I was done and we headed to bed.

Day 2: We got up early to head out to Teotihuacan. Had the breakfast buffet that was included with our room which was fantastic. Juices, really good breads and pastries, homemade granola, fruit, bagels, smoked salmon, etc. Needless to say, we were the ONLY ones eating breakfast at 8 am (probably would have been at 9 too!) We had the front desk arrange for a driver who took us to the Pyramids. I totally suggest getting an early start as there were probably only 5 other people there when we arrived but throngs by the time we left. We had planned to go to the Zocalo from Teotihuacan but Shakira was doing something in the Zocalo so instead we spent a good hour in terrible traffic. We were also going to go to El Bajio for lunch but decided we had had enough driving and went back to the hotel. Had lunch on the rooftop of the Condesa DF. The food was actually quite good and the Jamaica margaritas even better. It was a beautiful day and a great way to spend a couple hours. We walked around the Condesa neighborhood for a bit and then got ready for dinner. We had reservations at Aguila y Sol and it was simply amazing. The service was a bit over the top but the food was insane. Only thing I did not love was the Tamarind margarita. Still makes me cringe. Headed back to the hotel and crashed after our long day.

Day 3: Had breakfast at the hotel (yum again) then headed to the Poinente bus station to catch an ETN bus to Morelia. We had a fantastic time in Morelia. We really had no expectations and loved the city. We stayed at the Virrey de Mendoza which is a beautiful hotel. We had a corner room with 3 sets of doors that opened to a patio looking over the Plaza and Cathedral. We walked around a bit, exploring the Catherdral, Mercado de dulces, and then headed for lunch at the hotel Casino (recommended on another board) I ordered Guacamole, the salad with candied Jamaica, and the Tarascan Soup. My husband ordered some gigantic plate of Mexican goodness. The food was really, really good. Unfortunately, I spent the rest of the trip trying to find Tarascan soup that compared and it never came close. We went and sat out on our balcony, sipping wine and watching all the Sunday festivities in the Plaza. There was great music and dancing. We ate so much at lunch that we skipped our big planned dinner ( 1st disappointing Tarascan soup) and had snacks and drinks in the hotel lobby underneath the amazing stained glass ceiling.

Day 4:
We explored Morelia a bit more, went to the Casa de las Artesanias, had breakfast and then headed to Patzcuaro.The hotel set up a driver to take us. We got to Patzcuaro and checked into Casa Encantada then went exploring. Had lunch at Primer Piso (2nd disappointing Tarascan soup). We were going to go out on the lake but the weather looked a bit ominous so we went to the hotel and napped/ read. Had dinner at Cha Cha Cha which was, in my opinion, entirely overrated.

Day 5: Had breakfast at the hotel, then headed out to see some of the town around Patzcuaro. We had been set up with a driver, Miguel Angel Nunez, who was absolutely great. He is an anthropologist and took us to the ruins at Tzintzuntzan. We then went looking for a ceramist I love name Consula Rendon. She was not in the square where she normally was so he asked around and then tracked her down to her home. I got to meet her and buy a few pieces. I really appreciated his effort. I also got several mezcal bean bracelets and necklaces that I have gotten many compliments on (and they keep away the evil eye). We then headed to Santa Clara del Cobre, watched the copper being made and purchased a few pieces. Had a late lunch at El Patio (Tarascan soup disappointment #3) and dinner at Mistonga which was good.

Day 6: Headed to Zihuatanejo. There is a 10:30 Parhikuni bus that leaves from the Basilica. Maybe I was just impatient to get to Zihua but it took FOREVER!!! Seriously, almost 5 hours. But I did get to watch Pretty Woman and Little Man in spanish. That I would do differently. After a quick stop in Uruapan and Ixtapa, we arrived in Zihua at about 3:30 and took a taxi to La Casa Que Canta. I guess not many people arrive at LCQC by bus because they were quite confused as to how we had gotten there.

Days 7-11: Mostly sat at the pool sipping cocktails and relaxing. There was a most unfortunate red tide while we were there (may 23-28) and the water was an awful brownish red with the added delight of foam. I have been to Zihua several times and the water has always been nice. Not this time. Also, there were many fires burning up in the hill so it was also very hazy and smoky. We usually like to explore many beaches but not much use when you can't get in the water so it was very low key. Did go on the PIcante Sunset Cruise which was nice. Had dinner at LCQC, Amuleto, Kau Kan, etc. All were good but nothing outstanding. As always, LCQC is beautiful and nothing but good things to say.
kwil is offline  
Old Jun 4th, 2007, 05:16 PM
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Great post.
Muchas gracias!
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Old Jun 4th, 2007, 07:02 PM
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Nice report. I also was less than impressed with Cha Cha Cha as I sat in an almost empty restaurant waiting for food that never arrived. Still do not understand as when I finally complained to the owner his only response is that it had never happened before. He did not offer to quickly fix me something. I find that the beat eateries in Patzcuaro ( in 5 trips) are the Taco stands. Morelia indeed has far better cafés at reasonable prices.
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Old Jun 5th, 2007, 02:27 PM
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Thanks for your trip report!I got a laugh out of your description of arriving at LCQC by bus!
I have Zihua plans for August, and am really concerned about Zihua's red tide. It'll be a first trip there for us, and my husband loves to swim in the ocean. Anybody know how long the red tides been hanging around and how long they generally last?
Wondering if we shouldn't switch over to the Carribean side...
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Old Jun 5th, 2007, 07:55 PM
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The red tide normally only lasts a few weeks at most. It is a world wide phenomenon so it can happen anywhere in fact it was first report in the Caribbean in the late 70's.
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Old Jun 6th, 2007, 08:11 AM
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I just realized that it cut off my last remarks.

Final thoughts:

1. I really love Mexico City. Wish we would have had one more day to see the museums, Zocolo, etc but my husband had not been to Teotihuacan so that was our priority for this trip. The people were incredibly nice and we felt entirely safe.
2. I was somewhat disappointed with Patzcuaro. I had been wanting to go for sevearal years and perhaps had unrealistic expectations. I expected to just fall in love with it as I did SMA 15 years ago. Didn't happen. I have a really hard time with street dogs and there were SO many in pretty bad shape. Just my own personal problem.
3. Until we reached Zihuatanejo, we saw almost no American travelers. I realize it is the slow season but many Mexicans told us that all the bad Mexico press has really taken a toll. We did meet quite a few Americans in Patzcuaro but most lived in Mexico.
4. It was nice to be places where you actually had to speak Spanish (mexico city & Morelia) It may not have been nice for them to have to listen to me but I can't remember the last time I actually needed it.

Frankie,
The boat captain told us that this is one of the worst red tides they have had (it is apparantly still there) but should get washed away with the first rains. I found it interesting that it was not even mentioned at LCQC. All the guests that I spoke to who had not been to Zihua previously thought that that was just the way the water always was. They seemed shocked when I said that it is normally nice swimming water and said that they would probably never had come back to Zihua if they had not found out it was abnormal. One guest thought that they didn't say anything for fear that we would all gang up and ask for a Red Tide Discount.
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Old Jun 6th, 2007, 09:52 AM
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LoL kwil, a red tide discount sounds about right!
Loved all your observations.
Did you by any chance see Club Intrawest on La Ropa, and if so, did it look nice? My plan is to stay there, but if the Red Tide's still there in July, I may change our plans.
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Old Jun 7th, 2007, 07:38 AM
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frankie,
I did see Intrawest. It is at the beginning of La Ropa beach on the LCQC end. It actually does look quite nice though slightly out of place next to the rest of the small hotels. It is pretty big! It looked like most/all of the rooms have a large terrace. There weren't a lot of people on the beach in front of the hotel, but that was probably again due to the state of the water. I think I also heard several people saying that the restaurant (Zi?) was quite good. Couldn't see the pool from the beach but the whole place looks very nice and I am sure that the water will be back to normal by July. Hope this helps.
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Old Jun 7th, 2007, 11:15 AM
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Have not been to Cha Cha Cha since Thanksgiving '05.
Sorry to hear that the food and service is not so great.
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Old Jun 8th, 2007, 02:22 PM
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thanks for your great good help, kwil! If we didn't have 3 young adults with us, I'd stay somewhere a little smaller and more intimate, but Intrawest has 2 and 3 bedroom units. I can't wait to just get a look at Casa Que Canta, it's just looks like a wonderful place. Maybe someday!
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Old Jun 9th, 2007, 04:28 PM
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kwil- thank you for your trip report esp. about Moerlia, I didn't get there when I went to Patzcuaro & Mex City in March. I also posted that I was not that impressed with Cha Cha Cha, (pleasant, but sloooooow service) but I liked Primer Piso - my tarascan soup there was very good. And I still dream of their pear salad.
I am not sure I would again choose Patzcuaro as a 5-day destination, but it was a lovely slow-paced time that in the end stole my heart.
Stewbear did you ever get to Primer Piso?
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Old Jun 10th, 2007, 06:38 AM
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Kwil,
Sounds like a great trip! Heading to Quanjuato for a few weeks then to Mexico City for three nites at the Condessa DF. Looks like a great hotel. How is the hood? Fun to walk around, shops, cafes, etc...? Glad you made it to Teotihuacan, in my opion a reason to go to Mexcio by itself. You do need to go back and see the Zocalo, it is wonderful saw it last year for the first time. You also must see the anthropolgie museum and Casa Azul, or Frida Kahlos house next time as well. Happy travels
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Old Jun 10th, 2007, 01:29 PM
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frankie,
I hope my comments about Intrawest were not read as a judgement. Just meant as an observation. It looks like a great place to take the family.

ninasdream,
Maybe I needed more time in Patzcuaro to fully appreciate it. I think the food disappointment was a result of amazing food in the previous days. I still think about the Tarascan soup in Morelia. I have also heard what stewbear said about the best food in Patzcuaro being street food. Didn't want to chance it for my beach trip but, interestingly enough, my stomach was great for the whole trip until we got to Zihua and then a little "iffy". Must have been all the fancy resort food. I would pick tacos and guac any day.

Arthistory-
The food at Codessa DF was quite good. We never ate dinner there but I would next time. The rooftop changes their menu from more traditional to sushi at night. Condessa was nice, lots of parks and cafes, but there wasn't as much shopping as I had expected. Maybe I just didn't go the the right area. Have fun in Guanajuato and DF. Sounds like a great trip.

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Old Jul 8th, 2007, 02:22 PM
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Give Patzcuaro another chance! Unfortunately except for Mistonga you chose the wrong restaurants. There are good ones there....I love Patz & wish I was there right now!
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