Laura and Steve's hopefully sloth-full Costa Rica Adventure
 

I have wanted to go to Costa Rica for many years, and we finally made it - but a bit older and less athletic than we once were, this has been planned as an easy going trip. I remember on these forums many years ago someone commenting that you could always tell the difference between the American and European tourists. The Americans run around like ants trying to see everything, and the Europeans relax on the beach. So this vacation we are trying to make like Europeans, or perhaps, as I keep telling my friends, sloths.

Travel went well, our first time using Newark which is decorated in faded airport grey, but got through all the check points pretty easily. It helped that we filled out United's travel ready forms ahead of time (a moment of panic the day before when the airline said we needed negative covid tests even though the country doesn't require them, but I called and all was well). The plane was on time, pretty easy flight. But Steve is gluten free and it was hard for him to find food he could safely eat, so he subsisted all day on the cookies and chips in his bag. By the time we got to the airport it was late and he was tired, and I think maybe a little woozy. All I know was I went to change some money and the next thing I knew he was calling to me that he had hit his head and was bleeding. I was tired, I called over airport staff, (humorous moment, called him my abuelo instead of my esposo). They cleaned wound and gave him a wheel chair to sit in. They probably thought I was a horrible wife because I went off to get the luggage but all I could think of was getting to the hotel in time for him to get dinner before the restaurant closed. He has some complicated medical neurological stuff and I definitely didn't want to go to a hospital and have them confuse his usual issues with the head wound.
Luckily we got luggage, I had arranged a ride to the hotel we were staying the night at - Haciena Belen Marriott - and whew, we got there while restaurant was still open. We sat down to have dinner and he was digging into some lovely chicken soup when I noticed he was bleeding again. I asked the waitress for a napkin to staunch the bleeding. She took one look and called a manager who took one look and said my husband needed stitches. They then called an ambulance and escorted him over to be examined. I sat at the table for a while, but began getting nervous when he didn't come back so waitress very kindly said she would keep the table for us, and escorted me outside, they brought me a chair to sit in while I waited. It was a bit worrisome it was taking so long and he was in the ambulance (and doesn't speak any Spanish, I have a passable amount) but an hour later he emerged with three stitches. The staff at the hotel were just incredible, so lovely (thank you Volcano Girl for the recommendation). The food and the room and the ambiance were pretty wonderful as well.

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our first evening in Costa Rica - are we having fun yet?

The next morning the ride we had arranged from Arenas Del Mar near Manuel Antonio. Our driver Jorge was lovely, didn't speak much English but that was great cause I got to practice my Spanish. Pulled over to let us admire this gorgeous fellow.
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Quetzal I think?

When we arrived we were greeted with a cocktail of coconut, pineapple and basil, and there were monkeys dancing on the roof - It was exactly what I had dreamed of. If the trip were over today (which it is not) I would be satisfied. Arenas Del Mar is gorgeous, our room (casita really) looks out over the ocean, we have a large balcony with a hot tub, the staff is beyond helpful. My only complaint is that the food on the menu sounds better than it actually is - strangely heavy on the meat, less on the fresh vegetables.

Yesterday rested. I had a lovely massage at the spa, and then we went down to the little private beach and lay around slothfully. Now we are off in the near future to look for the real thing in Manuel Antonio. stay tuned
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sunset on the beach

Rocky start. I hope your trip goes well from now on.

Oh my gosh what a scary start. I'm glad you enjoyed the hotel, and it sounds like they took good care of you. I do really like that place a lot!

Beautiful bird - that one is a scarlet macaw. Great spotting! Hope you get your fill of sloths and monkeys!

I find a lot of the food in Costa Rica to be a bit bland. Definitely not a foodie destination for the most part. Great for people who love rice and beans though. :) The fresh fruit is usually really good. For a treat, try a batido - kind of a fresh fruit smoothie/milkshake.

I'm with you on the food, volcanogirl. It really isn't much better at Arenas del Mar, despite what they charge. But they have sloths and a naturalist onsite, at least they used to.

two tours, a wedding and dinner at the beach
 

I'm sitting on the balcony of our room at Arenas Del Mar watching the green/blue sea hypnotically roll in and out, drinking my luke warm coffee. This truly is paradise (minus the microwave lol). We've had a practically perfect two days. MLGB and Volcano girl, I'm with you on the food - it has been disappointing at ARDM - mostly large hunks of meat or fish, not too exciting. Lunches by the beach have been much nicer with nice salads and last night we went to the fish grill at the beach restaurant which was wonderful: gilled octopus and lobster, rice and beans, sashimi and oysters - complete with a sudden intense shower, our first real Costa Rican rain (we've been lucky despite the weather forecasts). I felt for the waiters suddenly having to move all the tables up to the covered porch.
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lobster by the beach

But back to the beginning
On Friday we went on an excursion to Manuel Antonio with a lovely guide, Maria Teresa. It was a 3 hour walk and the heat was pretty intense for us not used to heat/humidity combo, and I was worried for my husband who has health conditions that get worse when he overexerts - but he did great, I was the one struggling at the end. But oh how wonderful. If you have never been I strongly advise you go with a guide. We passed many disappointed tourists on their own who weren't seeing any of the wildlife. You have to really know where to look and Maria Teresa was an ace. All the guides carry mounted binoculars and she would spot something, set the binoculars up and focus - often hundreds of feet in the trees. We saw sloths, cara blanca monas (monkeys) coatis (my favorite), bats, frog, and sloths galore.
That night was the only negatory - we'd gotten a letter that there would be a wedding at the beach that evening but it shouldn't interrupt our vacation. WRONG. The music was so loud there was no way to shut it or the drunken shouting out of the room. We spoke with the staff who were very kind but unable to do much about it. The next morning my husband called the manager who apologized profusely and comped us the room that night. Still...I'm sure they need the revenue from the weddings. It would be great if they could build a venue separate from the hotel rooms.
Yesterday we were too beat to do the other tour we had planned so instead went to the beach and pool which was just perfect haven in this so troubled world. Then met up with Maria Teresa again for a bird walk on the hotel grounds. Only saw one bird worth stopping for (a hawk), but got to see howler monkeys in action and fantastic mother and baby sloths. She explained that the rescue operations bring sloths to the hotel for a protected place when they find them.

Today - another massage, pack, beach, and hubby gets stitches out - yea. I can't say enough nice things about the hotel staff. They are phenomenal.
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white faced monkey does some shopping
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momma and baby sloth
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sleeping tent bats
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hawk

quick update
 

I wasn't going to write more today but I have to gush a little (pictures will follow). I had a second lovely massage and on the way down to the room saw easily 10 monkeys cavorting through the trees. As I got to the room one of the staff members called to me, "lady, lady" and pointed out an agouti with two little babies (large tailess rodent, very cute) in a hillside nest - and then at lunch we saw a basilicos lizzard - very sinister looking.

Our waiter at lunch was the same gentleman from the previous night at the beach fish cookout that got rained on, and he said, oh, we prepared your husband a gluten free dessert but you left too quickly and then brought out for him a lovely plate of fruit and sherbert.

finally, the hotel arranged for a lovely doctor from town to come to our room to take out my husbands ill gotten stitches. Not bad for our last day. pictures will follow.

Ooh those bats are creepy! Is Maria Teresa the resort's guide? Do they still have the minibar refrigerator on the balcony with the sign about being sure to lock it so the monkeys don't break in?.

That is a shame about being disturbed by the wedding, but good that they comped you that night.

I think the monkeys won, the mini bar is in the room these days. they do warn you to make sure to lock the doors lol

Excellent photos - I'm really enjoying your report.

The lobster looks delicious. Glad you found some great food. Barba Roja and Cafe Agua Azul are good for casual meals, at least when we were there. One night we had a pizza delivered from Victoria's and enjoyed it out on our balcony so we could take in the view.

Onwards to Arenal
 

We said a sad goodbye to Arenas Del Mar. They had arranged a driver for us. The road up to Fortuna took 5 hours and it was hard on my arthritic knees, but interesting watching the country go by. We stopped in a little town for lunch in an open air place. The food was basic Costa Rican and honestly better than the fancier fare at ADM. We both had rice and chicken and corn with tortillas. I was struck on the ride up by the way almost all the homes, businesses, churches, schools were surrounded by tall fences, some with barbed wired and wondered if it indicated that there is more crime than I had thought, or if simply the street location made places inviting targets. I asked our guide yesterday and he said it was their version of a burglar alarm...but it looked a bit intense to me. anyone know more?

We got to Nayara Gardends around 5 pm and, as they say, OMG. it's actually part of a three part campus: Nayara gardens, springs and a tent city. Last night looking something up I saw that Nayara Srpings has been voted one of top two hotels in the world, and the spa voted the top in the world and I totally believe it. Again, greeted with a lovely drink, very helpful and informative young man. They use golf carts to drive you around if the walk is too long for you. The room (rainforest villa) is exquisite. I'm sitting on our teak porch right now, complete with hot tub and hammock, listening to the birds, looking at jungle foliage. The room is gorgeous, huge bathroom and best of all for me, outdoor rain shower (Steve prefers the indoor one lol). Ok, time to get dressed for the bountiful delicious breakfast buffet. More in a bit

Bad monkeys!

At the feet of Arenal
 

to continue...we had dinner the first night at Asia Luna - delicious both food and drinks - sushi, poke, soup, etc. Maybe best meal of the trip to date other than fish at the beach. Was pleased yesterday to discover they have one of those amazing breakfast buffets with local foods, meats and cheeses, salad, omlettes etc. They also have a restaurant on the springs side that has a la carte breakfast menu but I think we will stick with the buffet.

I then went for what may well be the most wonderful massage of my life. It is on the Nayara Springs side and I think was voted best spa in the world by Conde Naste. If so I believe it. The room was an open air pavilion with the sounds of the birds and the wind all around. Pure utter relaxation.

After lunch we joined a tour with another couple going to Lake Arenal. It was a beautiful 1.5 hour walk with a naturalist guide (very knowledgable) and then a boat ride on the Lake right in front of the volcano. The boat pilot was amazing at spotting birds and pulling up close for us to see. Great story from the trip. Our guide, Jaido, grew up on a cattle ranch that he still owns, before becoming an environmental educator. He remembers in the '70s his father going to the airport to buy cattle from Americans. The other gentleman on our trip said that his father raised cattle in Iowa and used to fly to Costa Rica in the '70s to sell it. So the cattle on Jaido's ranch may very well have come from our friend's ranch in Iowa.

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Arenal from the lake
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in marshy area of lake by Arenal, I don't remember the name but this fellow was gorgeous

When we got back I sat in the hot tub on our porch to relax, then we had a lovely dinner at the resort's casual restaurant that specializes in more local foods - I had my first ceviche and am now hooked - and my favorite fruity drink so far - la Llorona lol Today we try the hanging bridges if I am brave enough. If not, this too will be ok.
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my new office
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La Llorona

We love Nayara - excellent hotel and yes good food. We stayed on the Gardens side. Glad you are enjoying yourself! And you got a nice view of the volcano. Usually it's shrouded in fog, so that's a real treat.

The Bogarin Trail is a great place to see sloths if you want to see some more. It's owned by a local family - flat easy walking. Also red-eyed tree frogs, colorful poison dart frogs, caimans, and sometimes some nice birds. You need to do the guided hike; we wouldn't have spotted any of that without our guide. Also the Fortuna waterfall hike is really pretty, but lots of steps down and back so may be hard on your knees.

Regarding crime, yes there's a lot of petty crime. Don't ever leave your stuff unattended or leave things in the car etc. Violent crime is more rare but can happen. We've felt safe everywhere that we've gone, but we always stay someplace with security. We had friends stay in an AirBnB and it was broken into while they were there - all cameras, iPads, etc. taken.

hanging by my nails - eeek
 

Well, I did it ! I made it through the hanging bridges tour (advertised as 9 regular bridges and 6 hanging bridges). The park, a privately owned one, is gorgeous and very well run. Trails are easy to transverse. We saw amazing wildlife assisted by our very erudite guide Alonso - learned a lot of history as well as zoology and botany. My favorites besides the toucans which are too amazing to be real, were the leafcutter ants who cut bits of leaves from the trees and create little farms where they grow mushrooms to feed themselves - crazy. Gorgeous birds and monkeys and coatis as well. Our tour also included a picnic lunch which was utterly enjoyable. Ok, about the bridges - did I enjoy them? no. Did I survive them? yes. enough said. But the beauty of the park made it worth it.

Dinner last night after a much deserved hot tub we ate at the "fancy " restaurant at the resort - Amor Loco - delicious rack of lamb, very romantic, loved the live guitar music. Like all the restaurants, even though it is indoors, it is open to the fresh air, so covid "friendly" so to speak. Today is hang out at resort day and relax.
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hanging bridge
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pollinator hotel
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toucan

I can see clearly now
 

Forgot to mention that we had an entire day yesterday of clear views of the volcano - amazing to see and take in
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Arenal

Swan Song
 

Well I thought we would have little to report about the last two days. The plan was to relax, check out the pools and eat and do nothing which is pretty much what we did - ate good food and spent some time at the quiet, adults only pool on the Nayara Springs side of things which was lovely (except for the couple doing water aerobics in the pool lol). But there was a storm brewing, literally. As those of you who live in the US know there is a major storm tearing across the country today which was supposed to be our return. We got a warning from the airline, so after a little research snagged a room at the Hacienda Belen for tonight, cancelled and rebooked covid test, contacted dog boarder, and changed our flight home. I'd like to be home tonight, but better to wait a day and miss a day of cancelled flights and crisis reacting. So one more night in Costa Rica - thas ok (sadly resort was booked).

The resort has an option to book a private dinner for two in a Moroccan style little house called Besame Mucho which I did before we left - sort of in honor of my husband's birthday. We were a little dubious that it would be worth it and almost cancelled but went ahead with it anyway. It was fabulous. Super romantic (table strewn with roses, lovely oldies romantic soundtrack). Our server was Anna Maria who was sweet and friendly and we had a great time conversing with her. The chef, Gabriella, came out to meet us (I think she's about 25 years old lol) and the food was exquisite: gazpacho amuse bouche to die for, tomato stuffed with burratta, octopus carapacio for Steve, oxtail brownie (really yummy), beef tenderloin, and special desserts. And wine pairings for each course. We thought the evening couldn't get better but it did. Came back to the room to find a romantic swan sculpture made with towels and roses, rose drawings on the bed, and champaign on ice. I thought they had the wrong room, and called the front desk, but they said no, it was for us. We laughed and laughed. I've never had a rose scattered bed. Sadly we weren't up for any more alcohol so the campaign wasn't used (hope maybe someone on staff gets to take it home) but what a wonderful end to our stay.

This place is amazing - the people all so nice, and the commitment to climate awareness very impressive (they are trying to go single use plastic free).

ok, time for a day as Steve would say. Wish us luck getting home.

a few last pics
 

I forgot to add that I had another incredible massage at the Nayara springs spa - a volcanic mud special - or something like that. I was trying to imagine how they get the volcanic mud (climb the volcano with a giant ladle) but will take it on faith. Here are a few pics from the dinner at Besame Mucho and the surprise in our room when we returned.
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Besame Mucho
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romantic dinner for two
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surprise
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