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suze Nov 18th, 2012 08:55 AM

Just back from Puerto Vallarta
Hola my Fodor's lovers of Mexico. Here is my annual post! Just back from 10 glorious days in my beloved PV. Any questions, I'm happy to help if I can. -suze

KVR Nov 18th, 2012 11:39 AM

Welcome back. Glad you had a good trip. Missed you on the Caribbean boards. :) Leaving for Cabo pretty soon. I am so excited.

Stewbear Nov 18th, 2012 01:52 PM


MichelleY Nov 18th, 2012 01:52 PM

Can you do a short trip report? Anything new and exciting in PV? What fun things did you do?

suze Nov 18th, 2012 02:38 PM

You mean where did I stay, Stewbear?

Sure MichelleY, I'd be happy to, with the disclaimer that what I do in PV probably wouldn't float most people's boats. but I'll give it a try ;-)

I had an apartment high on a hill above Olas Altas (read *hiking* up and down 3-4 times every day -lol) in an absolutely lovely open-air 1 bedroom in a private traditional-style complex.

I went to Zumba classes most mornings... at the plaza in front of Eloisa's (8am M-F), Fit Club (9am M-F), and Yoga Vallarta (8am Tu/Th).

Besides that I just walk, walk, walk, around, around, around town. Lounge by the pool. Read 4 books. Got a nice tan. I stopped into the church and happened to get to be part of a wedding taking place at that time. Went up to Casa Isabels for the view and happy hour. One afternoon at C&C's on the beach. After much searching found Christmas wrapping paper with Feliz Navidad on it.

Hmmm... what's new and exciting is always all the changes, every year. The newly completed widening of the Malecon in Centro, for example, is very nice. And the not so happy changes like the continuing growth and addition of some (imo) sadly inappropriate gigantic condo buildings south-side. Rizo's is closed for good, boohoo.

Been around a few years now but Mikey's Deli at Los Mercados is fantastic, amazing, and the place I ate (well got food to go) most often. Terriffic addition to south-side.

Insider tip, try Luigi who has the gelatto stand in front of La Piazetta, it is excellent. Have the yogurt berry swirl. 270p small cup. Divine. Coconut and chocolate weren't too shabby either.

The Saturday morning Market Coop at Paradise Community Center at Pulpito 127 (across from Coco's Kitchen) is fantastic and fabulous. 9am-1pm. An incredible mix of local and expat vendors, bakers, vegetables, meats, crafts, handmade soaps and cards, coffee from the mountains, bagels, chicken rotisserie, clothes, etc. Highly recommend Roberto there, the italian fresh sausage man. His sign says Ego Sum Salumi Italiani. And he has a grill going for sausages, but also amazing procuitto, salami, packaged and sausages to take home to cook.

There's another similar market, different vendors, running on Badillo that same time/day.

"Southside Shuffle" every other Friday night was good. A bunch of the stores and galleries lining B. Badillo have an open house, serve wine, and make a bit of a street party. Includes Banderas Bay Trading Co, Galeria Puerco Azul, La Bohemia, Lucy's, Galleria Dante, Cassandra Shaw to name a few. Next dates: Nov 25, Dec 16 & 30, Jan 13 & 27, Feb 10 & 24, Mar 9 & 23.

I went to the party at Lucy's Cucu Cabana Thursday for Gil's latest titled "Slime & Punishment" and in celebration of her/their 19 years in business with the shop. They had a mariachi band out front, balloon & flag decorations, seats along the sidewalk, a huge vat of margaritas or no-alcohol fruit punch, shopping, book signing, etc. And a chance to meet both Gil and Lucy.

The band at Nacho Daddy's doing oldies and covers was pretty darn decent.

Well how about that? I guess I did do something!! :-)

Stewbear Nov 18th, 2012 03:02 PM

Thanks Suze Mexico in general & PV in particular is such a great walking towm as is Zihuatanejo, Patzcuaro, Morelia & my new love Guanajuato.
PS I Will be in PV for a week or so in early March after a 5 year (has it really been that long?) absence.

KVR Nov 18th, 2012 03:51 PM

Sounds like you did have a great trip with lots to do. Thanks for sharing.

Michelle, will you send me another e-mail for our GTG in Cabo. :)

ragout Nov 18th, 2012 04:01 PM

Thanks Suze for your great report. We are heading to PV in January for a week. Sounds like we could be busy cause hate to miss anything. Though our intention is to read, swim and sun we can be easily distracted! Will use your info as our guide. Thx for this.

MichelleY Nov 18th, 2012 05:09 PM

Thanks for the report!

suze Nov 19th, 2012 04:21 AM

Stewbear, You will be shocked and amazed at the changes in Puerto Vallarta even in the past 5 years. Starting with the airport! It's a lot bigger, and very sleek and modern these days.

I'll add on my restaurant list here too, and any other details I can think of, for others visiting soon.

tom42 Nov 19th, 2012 05:10 AM

Sounds like a great trip Suze.

cabron Nov 19th, 2012 06:10 AM

That wasn't a mariachi band outside of Lucy's it was "Norteño" I was there, pity I missed you.

suze Nov 19th, 2012 11:04 AM

What makes them not a mariachi band JR? Not arguing with you, just curious who they are or what makes them different? They sure *looked* like a mariachi band (lol).

Percy Nov 19th, 2012 12:25 PM

Need any help on your next visit to Puerto Vallarat suze !! :)

Welcome back.

Stewbear Nov 19th, 2012 12:54 PM

A I understand it Mariachi must have-Brass instruments. Not familiar with Norteno. In Zihua none brass groups are called Musicas. Do not know if that is just locally there or not.
A wonderful tme to visit Guadalajara (home of theMariachii) is durning the Mariachi Festival.

MichelleY Nov 19th, 2012 01:31 PM

That is interesting info Stewbear!

suze Nov 20th, 2012 06:08 AM


I'm still curious is norteno the name of that specific group I saw (they were excellent) or it's the type of music?

suze Nov 20th, 2012 06:13 AM

Here are the restaurants I went to. Hardly an inclusive list of all the wonderful places. Just where I happened to end up. All meals were from good to fantastic.

Breakfast: Fredy's El Tucan, River Cafe, Cafe de Olla, Memo's House of Pancakes, Coco's

Lunch: to-go from Mikey's Deli at Los Mercados, CyC on the beach, Saturday Coop market at Paradise CC

Dinners: Coco's Kitchen, Joe Jacks Fish Shack, La Piazetta, Cafe de Olla

Dessert: Yarita bakery, Buonissimo gelato stand

Drinks: Cafe Isabel/Madison South, Nacho Daddy's

cabron Nov 20th, 2012 07:31 AM

Norteño is a style of music
different from Mariachi

suze Nov 20th, 2012 08:59 AM

muchas gracias, cabron. i should have just said there was "live music" :-)

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