lisa

Hello Fodorites. Just returned yesterday from two weeks in (mostly) sunny Mexico. Here's a trip report. <BR> <BR>We flew into Cancun on American Airlines on Sunday, November 19th. Had no trouble picking up our rental car at National Car Rental -- we got a Volkswagon Golf for $131/week, including unlimited mileage, not including insurance (which my credit card covered) plus $3 per day for an additional authorized driver. The car had air conditioning but was a manual shift. We had no trouble with the car or with National. <BR>We immediately drove to Punta Sam and took the 2:45 pm car ferry to Isla Mujeres, and we were on the island by 3:30 pm. <BR> <BR>We checked into a very nice room we had reserved at Hotel Media Luna. It was spotlessly clean and had a balcony overlooking the water, for $55 per night including tax and continental breakfast. It was a good deal. We had good weather for the first two days and enjoyed Playa Norte, but then a storm system moved in and it rained and got VERY windy, so those days we explored the island and shopped. Restaurants we enjoyed: Zazil-Ha (the beach bar and the upstairs restaurant at Na Balam), Pizza Rolandi, and a fantastic dinner at Villa Rolandi. Villa Rolandi was outstanding -- we looked at one of the rooms while we were there and it was absolutely lovely. If money is no object, stay there. Also, order the crepes Suzette at dinner -- they are amazing. <BR> <BR>After Isla Mujeres, we drove to Merida for 4 days. We stopped on the way to explore Chichen Itza, which I highly recommend. We hired a guide there for $40 U.S. for a 2-hour tour that was excellent, and then we explored further ourselves. <BR> <BR>(continued)

lisa

Merida was a major highlight of our trip. We stayed 4 nights at Casa Mexilio, which was a really cool bed and breakfast in the historic district, walking distance from the square and all sorts of great restaruants and shopping. It was $57 per night for an air conditioned room, including full breakfast every day. We really loved it. Our favorite restaurant in Merida was Portico del Peregrino -- they have a fantastic dessert of homemade coconut ice cream with Kahlua on top that is outstanding. We also enjoyed Los Almendros very much. Try some of the local specialties like poc chuc, lime soup, and pollo pibil. To be in Merida on a Sunday is so much fun. They shut down several blocks in the center of town and have a huge festival. We saw local folk dancers with huge platters full of drinks balanced on their heads, some excellent musical bands, and all sorts of neat things. We also saw a celebration in the Cathedral that was the most festive religious service I've ever witnessed. Don't miss the murals in the Governor's Palace -- they are gorgeous. We also bought some wonderful crafts in Merida. Prices are very reasonable. <BR> <BR>From Merida, we did a daytrip to Uxmal, which was also terrific. Crowds were much smaller than at Chichen Itza. Afterwards we had lunch at the Hacienda just down the road from Uxmal and enjoyed a dip in their pool, which felt good after the heat at Uxmal. The food there is really delicious. <BR> <BR>

lisa

(Part 3) <BR> <BR>After Merida, we drove down to Laguna Bacalar for 4 days. It was a long drive from Merida to Bacalar -- we left around 9 a.m. and did not arrive until after 4 p.m. There are several interesting little towns along the way (especially during the first half of the drive), with ancient little churches. We enjoyed seeing the older Mayan women wearing traditional dresses with beautiful embroidery. There is a lot of poverty but the people are so friendly and kind. <BR> <BR>At Laguna Bacalar we stayed at Rancho Encantado, in a laguna casita. It had ceiling fans and a palapa roof, but no air conditioning. It was humid but there were good breezes off the lake. The casita had a beautiful Mayan-style mural pained on the interior walls which was based on murals from Balamkan. Two meals a day were included in the rate: dinner and a generous continental breakfast of yogurt, muffins, fresh fruit, cereal, bread, fruit juice, and coffee (lunches are available a la carte). The great thing about Rancho Encantado is that they arrange tours of nearby Mayan sites, which are virtually unexplored. One day we toured 3 sites -- Becan, Chicanna, and Xpuhil. Another day my boyfriend took a tour to Lamanai, a site just across the border in Belize. The tours are expensive ($75-150 per person, including lunch, transportation, and guide), but they are very good. The Laguna itself is lovely to swim in. One day we took kayaks out and saw a great deal of bird life.

lisa

(Part 4) <BR> <BR>After Laguna Bacalar, we drove up to Puerto Aventuras for two nights to attend the wedding of some friends. Puerto Aventuras has a very good beach, some excellent snorkeling, and higher prices than the other cities on our itinerary. It was also a lot more touristy. We had a lot of fun there though. We stayed in a condo at Chac Hal Al, which was very nice, and had a small kitchen, air conditioning, TV, etc. <BR> <BR>The weather was pretty good over the entire two weeks -- mostly sunny, with brief showers here and there. We had two cloudy/windy days and one day where it rained most of the day, but the rest were pretty good. <BR> <BR>If anyone has any questions, I will be happy to answer them here if you post them. Thanks to everybody who helped me with all my questions prior to the trip. <BR> <BR>

Susan

Lisa, terrific trip report! It sounds like you had a wonderful trip. We've been in that area a few times and always enjoy it. <BR> <BR>In Isla Mujeres, we stayed at the Belmar Hotel - attached to Pizza Rolandi - good deal and you're right, the food at the restaurant is good. Villa Rolandi hadn't been built when we were there, but it does sound super. <BR> <BR>In Bacalar, we stayed at a Mexican hotel right on the lagoon. It was much less expensive than Rancho Encantado, but of course it didn't have the same charm. It might have been called Hotel Laguna? <BR> <BR>Thanks for sharing your trip report.

Sally

Lisa, My husband and I are trying to plan a trip to Cancun area and are considering staying at Media Luna on Isla Mujeres January 4th through 11th. The price quoted was $105 though. We have never been to Mexico and didn't want to bother with a car. Do you know how easy it is to take day trips from there. For example we want to try snorkeling, maybe take a scuba class, go down to Xcaret, go over to Rio Lagartos and of course visit a Mayan ruin. So how easy do you think it will be without a car? Any other suggestions? <BR> <BR>Thanks! <BR>Sally

lisa

Hi Sally. I know Media Luna raises their rates in high season but I am surprised at the rate of $105 -- that sounds very high to me. I am curious about who you booked through, or did you get that rate through the hotel directly? <BR> <BR>We had a car, but taxis were readily available on Isla. You don't necessarily need a car at all on Isla because they have bikes, mopeds, and golf cars that you can rent as needed. You can also take taxis. We used our car on 2 of the days we were there. <BR> <BR>However, off the island, I would think you would want a rental car for exploring. Yes you could hire a car and driver for a day or take buses or taxis, but with a car you have a lot more freedom to come and go as you please, when you please. The roads were very good on the mainland. I would definitely recommend renting a car, at least for the time when you are not on Isla. National seemed to have the best rates. <BR> <BR>

Sally

Lisa, Thanks for your quick reply. I did not call them diretly. It was through a reservation service. Do you have their number? <BR> <BR>Thanks! <BR>Sally

lisa

Hi again Sally. We went through a very reputable reservations service called At Home on Isla Mujeres. They have an 800 number. Here is the website: http://www.akumal.net/im-prop/playa-media-luna.htm <BR>However, just from looking at their website, it looks to me that if the $105 price you were quoted includes tax, that's the same price that they have for Media Luna at that time. <BR>There is another reservations service called The Lost Oasis that I have seen a lot of other people have used successfully on the Isla Mujeres.net board, and it looks like they might have slightly lower rates for the hotel at that time, although I'm not sure. The website for that one is http://www.vacationspot.com/showprop...?propkey=41306 <BR> <BR>I'm not sure how it works if you book directly through the hotel, whether they take credit cards or cash only or whether they require prepayment in advance. All of the hotels where we stayed required prepayment in full, so it seemed like that was a commonly accepted business practice there. Anyway, if you want to try it with the hotel directly, I think their number is <BR>011-52-987-71124. Good luck.