Just back - Chiriqui con. and home
 

Said goodbye to Boquete and took off for Cerro Punta. We were so laid back and blase by now about the easy drive ahead that we completely blew by the turnoff near Concepcion for Vulcan. We were 10 km along the road toward Rio Sereno before we realized . . .
But if you gotta take the wrong road that one's a gorgeous way to go wrong. Not much there except endless rolling hills.

Our detour caused us to arrive a little later to Cerro Punta and Los Quetzales lodge. We had reserved Cabana 2 up in Amistad Park - a 25 min drive from the lodge itself. We had a nice early dinner in lodge restaurant. Food here was also simple, but very tasty. We allowed hotel staff to drive us up the road to the cabin "because it's dark." But, no sooner were we on that road that my intrepid husband driver said "I DON"T think we'll be driving the Terios up here, daylight or no. So if you plan to go, do yourself a favor and rent something with alot of clearance and shocks. This a ROCKY (Bouldery?) road. A tank might be good. Next came a scary walk in the pitch black forest of about 100 yards more to the cabin.
Our energetic and agile young host tore ahead leaving me with his single small flash light. (We each had one in luggage if we'd known what we were in for). Up big steps and across narrow unrailed footbridges all in the pitch dark at a race walk - "Senor, waaiiitttttt, we can't see a thing.. .."
We made it in one piece and listened intently as our charming host Abel explained the wood stove, lanterns, and cabin layout. We didn't even have neighbors in cabin 3 that night. We were so . .. . . . .ALONE!
A sketchy demo of the battery powered radio did not inspire confidence that we could reach anyone down at the hotel. It didn't work the next day either, so good thing we never really needed it. Slept like a log nonetheless.

Up at daylight and out on our nice patio to look for quetzales and other birds. No quetzales. Lots of black solitaires calling. Lots of hummingbirds at our feeder.Take lots of pics. Nice wood cabins really nestled in voluminous green foliage. Heliconias, etc. Breathtaking. Great view. Meet our guide Abel and a group from the hotel for an hour an half walk up the hill. Nice walk, though didn't see much. We decided to split off and do more serious birding - a bit of a walk on the sendero de llos quetzales trail - this time from Cerro Punta side. Of course we later heard that 15 min after we left the group saw two quetzales. And then we opted not to go to the quetzales trail because we heard approach road to THAT was akin to the road to our cabin. Instead we drove just a badly potholed road to Las Nubes where the ranger station for La Amistad park is located. Nice short hike in there. Several huge ancient trees down. That eve we had a dinner party with the new tenants of cabin 3, interesting well-travelled Canadians. Great time.

Next am we were up at dawn for some last minute patio birdwatching before our 7am pickup, which arrived right on time. Took us down the rock road to our deserted Terios. And we were off to David.

The setting of those cabanas at Los Quetzales is fabulous. We needed at least another night there. Takes a while to figure out the logistics of the place. And desk help, though nice enough, only answers questions you think of to ask. "Where's the restaurant?" Where's the trailhead? How do you get there. etc. etc. Where else might we go . .. ?

An uneventful quick drive with a stop for gas and we were at David. Quick car drop off and our plane was pretty much on time. Taxi to Bristol Hotel. Walked to Athens Pizza nearby for lunch. Then taxi for last minute shopping. Driver helped us find Market at the Y, which someone had mentioned to us. He called his Dad on his cell phone and he and I discussed it in English. Dad had the skinny alright. Big market, lots of vendors. Bought some inexpensive molas and more expensive baskets. Then we went and did a quick trail in Metropolitan Park just as it was closing. Back to the hotel and then a terrific dinner at Limoncillo nearby. Excellent food.

Early flight home the next day. Here's one thing we'll never do again: fly through Miami with less than 2 hours between flights.
We had only carryon luggage. Though our flight would continue on from Miami to DC, we had to get OFF the plane, go to Customs (what seemed like a 20 mile walk), go through security again, and return to gate to reboard plane. Yeah, and everyone else too. It was ugly.

It was fabulous trip though. So much diversity - mountains, rainforest, hip city.
And we didn't even hit any beaches. The whole country seems poised to really take off (guess it already it). Yet when we returned people looked surprised and said "Panama? Why Panama?"

Hope we can get back there sometime. ..
So many places, so little time...

Thanks, Glover. I loved seeing Panama through your eyes.

Fabulous report---we stayed in that same little yellow frame cabin at Hotel Panamonte--and I think perhaps in the same cabin from Los Quetzales! But we made the mistake of driving up there ourselves! What a "road"! It was a fabulous trip, we never got to Darien (went to Bocas del Toro instead) so next time that is on our list.

meanwhile, tomorrow we leave for Costa Rica--for the third time!

Your choice of mixing Panama City/highlands/Gamboa is remarkably similar to our trip which ended Feb 26. We stayed 4 days each at Casco Viejo in Panama City at a renovated french building (Casa Mar Alta), then to Coffee Estates, then to Cerro Punta at Quetzales lodge (stayed at cabin 4 up your favorite road), the Quetzal trail approach road to Respringa actually was better than the road to the cabins, and then finishing at the historic villas at Gamboa Resort(no bugs at all except ants who liked food not stored properly).

My point is that whether by good planning or luck, the alternating of comfort to more rustic, cities to remote highlands is a great way to see Panama and to make trips like this more interesting. We did not have a chance to see the Darien, but if we do, your spots sound great.

In 18 days in Panama, we saw two mossies, this included a trip to the Smithsonian research facility on Barro Colorado.

My thanks to those on this forum, Andrew et al, who gave us great advice.

Absolutely agree with you, Beaker, that this itinerary makes for a good mix. At first I thought it was a bit of a pain to have to return to Panama City between Gamboa & Darien and then between Darien and Chiriqui. But it turned out to be just great - mixing in a little urban pleasure with the countryside/rainforest. Time to do the laundry, hit some really nice restaurants, couple museums . ..

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