How many days you spend w/a guide depends on what you want do do and how much you have to spend. My husband and I were in Oaxaca last Muertos and spent one full day w/Linda Hanna going to 4 different towns and visiting various craftsmen (whom we had chosen from her offerings, and we added the knfe maker). Then we did the nightime cemetary w/her at Atzompa. It is pricey and we felt that is what we could spend for a one on one tour guide.

We have not used Starkman, but I had read so much of his B&B blog and we considered using him as a guide, but went w/Linda instead. And then lo and behold, while we were at the knife maker's compound (Angel Aguilar) in Ocotlan, who was also there w/his people - Starkman. He and Linda are probably the top two expat guides in Oaxaca, they know each other well. We all chatted.

I would suggest that you decide NOW what towns and crafts you want to see demonstrated and might be interested in buying. That will drive what towns and artists you want to go to. Chances are, you can do whatever it is in one full day w/a guide. But if you really want to see more and have the money, you could do two days, or a day and a half.

Then decide what cemetary or cemetaries you want to go to , and whether you want to attend a comparsa (street party, like the one in Etla for Muertos). That will help you determine what night (or nights) you want to go out into other towns (diferen cemetaries celebrate different nights, and diff. comparas are held diff. nights), and what you want your tour schedule to be at night.

I am not familiar w/CasAntica but it looks lovely and gets good reviews, and you are very lucky to have gotten anything near the zocalo fr s decent price at this point. And don't worry about movomg hotels near Juarez park!! The year I did the Camino Real bus tour w/my amiga for Muertos, we stayed at the Holiday Inn (we were using points) not that far from Juarez Park. It is a LOVELY area, quiet and community oriented. And a nice safe walk down to the zocalo, unless of course you want to grab a cab in a hurry or if tired, and cabs will be available.

My husband and I walked to and by and through Juarez park last year from the Zolcalo area. We were on our way to the baseball stadium area on a Sunday to catch a colectivo/taxi to the Sunday market in Tlacalula (which I recommend if you are in the area on Sunday- we learned about it from the OaxacaVideoGuides.com fella's videos-- and it is easy and cheap to get there on your own- oaxacavideoguide tells you how).

There were lots of families in Juarez park that Sunday. My husband just reminded me that there was a big Zumba dance lesson going on w/about 30 participants, and also an area where kids could ride electirc cars an area around a fountain. A very nice park.

HAve you emailed w/CasAntic to see what tours they can hook you up with? As I mentioned, hotels are sensitive to tourists desires for these tours, esp. during Muertos. I would be really surprised if they don't offer to link you up w/some tours.

I think you will be happy you took the serendipitous opportunity to go to Oaxaca for Muertos. There is nothing like it. You are going to have the time of your life.

Oops - didn't notice your dates.

Oaxaca is certainly wonderful, but if you find that hotels are all booked, you are really not into DoD, you don't really like crowds, etc, then you could just reroute your trip from DF to Queretaro, SMA, Guanajuato, Morelia. I am thinking that going to Oaxaca during DoD would be like going to Munich during Oktoberfest or to Rome for Easter.

Actually Oaxaca was not crowded for Muertos last year. It was much more crowded 3 and 4 yrs ago when I went for Muertos. There were hardly any Americans there last year, it was weird. I am not sure why, if it had to do with the drug war press, or what, but it was clearly evident to my husband and I that we saw hardly any other Americans and that it was not crowded.

Great that you are coming to Puebla, there's a lot to be discovered and tasted =), if you need some help or advice during your time in the city or Cholula write me:
[email protected]
twitter @liliana_vz

Enjoy your time in México

Lili

Polly, I don't know if you'd be interested in this, but I have this tour on my agenda for my next Puebla, DF, or Oaxaca trip. It is a food tour. The ones for Puebla and DF sound really good (altho the Oaxaca one is pretty pricey). Even if is not of interest, I love the guide's/owner's blog, check it out.

http://www.eatmexico.com/

Blog:
http://www.themijachronicles.com/

Thank you for the terrific guidance and information. emd-what a great blog and site!! Looks like you'll have a blast-I'm probably not a candidate due to the veggie thing, but I'll share w/my sister, who is in the gourmet food biz and would love it. Many thanks. Lili, thanks for Choula offer and Robertino, I appreciate the idea, and I appreciate all the advice about veggie dining and thoughts for first-time visitor with no Spanish. I have been leaning toward south, although haven't ruled out the other loop entirely. But tick tock-I have to decide in the next few days. I have more anxiety about this solo trip than usual because of my late planning, (hence limited options), and lack of Spanish so I really appreciate all the great insights. I'm set for DF-thanks to great advice here I've gone from barely touching down there to an expanded stay! I think Puebla isn't too booked and I have a little flex there. As advised-I have zeroed in on Oax crafts, emailed hotel about tours, purchased guidebooks, and found suggested itineraries for cemetery visits. Thanks emd for checking out Casantica-and thanks to your husband-I love the idea of Zumba in the park! From what I could glean, not much English is spoken in either hotel. Waiting to hear from my Oax hotels about tour options and also to confirm that they have my Expedia-booked res - and from an independent guide I connected with several days ago who has gone missing. Figured Sunday, early in my trip would be optimal for day tour of several of the villages w/guide to get lay of the land. I'll probably call hotel today. I don't have chance to travel as much as I'd like so I have gone from super frugal to being a bit picky about accommodations and have lately been spoiled by extraordinary B&B experiences. While continuing to see if hotel #1 opened up for part 2 of my trip, I stumbled into descriptions of top rated Ollin B&B...that was a mistake!! Bottom line 1) I just need to pull the trigger: go now and let go of my standards and tumble into whatever is still possible and be open to a bit more of the unknown and energy of DoD-OR wait until I have more options in the south- and go north where it's not as booked and more is available. 2): I have a huge list of countries on my wish list and have no idea why I have lived this long and haven't been to Mexico! What is up with that? I have been awakened on this site and know I could spend years exploring this magical country. 3): I know this decision is a luxury problem-I'm very grateful to be able to travel and to benefit from the kindness and wisdom of all of you fellow travellers.

PLEASE let us know what you decide and do come back and do a trip report! I for one am dying to read it.

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