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-   -   In Oaxaca - Artisan Recommendations (https://www.fodors.com/community/mexico-and-central-america/in-oaxaca-artisan-recommendations-853822/)

Glosean Aug 9th, 2010 10:57 AM

In Oaxaca - Artisan Recommendations
 
Greetings from Oaxaca.

This place is as wonderful as all of you told me. We are having a great time and there is so much to do and see.

Want to pass on the place we are staying for now. Casa Pereyra is on Independencia. The street traffic during day is audible but we are not usually around, We have a two level
studio - a big loft with a double bed and the lower floor has another double with small sitting area, kitchen combo and small bathroom. The staff is very sweet and there is a pretty court yard. Not too busy so courtyard noise is low.

Although we had many recommendations for guides and drivers, my husband is the adventurer so we rented a car after a few days to explore on our own, We are off in the
next day to pottery villages so looking for some recommendations of particular artisans
or some guidance on how to make purchases if we are on our own with only rudimentary Spanish. Is bargaining expected as in the markets?

My husband is lobbying for a drive to the coast - Puerto Angel - to stay an overnight
or two but I am not convinced yet.

Comments welcome.

Glo

emd3 Aug 9th, 2010 01:26 PM

I hope that Bixaorellana on this forum, who lives in Oaxaca, will see this and give you some specific artisans to seek out. I want to tell you how nice it is to read a post from someone on the road in Mexico, esp. in Oaxaca. We don't get that much around here. Thanks!

maryanntex Aug 9th, 2010 03:20 PM

I am not a big fan of most Oaxacan pottery and did not go to any of those villages this trip. But for other types of artesanias: Jacobo and Maria Angeles and their families are wonderful wood artists and their natural-dye albrijes are fabulous. They are the best! The workshop is located at
Calle Olvido #9 in San Martín Tilcajete
We thought Juan Ramon Martinez had beautiful rugs--natural dyes and wonderful quality. He is at Av. Juarez #219 in Teotitlan del Valle. All of these people speak fairly good English. Bargaining is expected, but don't bargain too hard--this is how they make a living. I usually ask what is their best price and then go with what they say. Jacobo did not really bargain, but his work is greatly in demand in the US and sold here for quite a bit more than he asks in Mexico.

baldone Aug 9th, 2010 06:54 PM

Ditto maryann re bargaining, esp. with the rugs-they are works of art, not just artesenias; I know you know that but for other readers. Puerto Angel is average at best, but if you continue up the coast you'll see that San Augustinillo might be one of the most rustic & deserted stretches of beach you'll ever see. Strong undertow, tho. Skip Zipolte unless you're into ganja and naked, dirty hippies. Mazunte is good for the turtles and other eco-stuff. Puerto Angel looks OK from a drive-by, but the little bay is polluted and the town is kinda scurvy overall. You can see the oil slick from the highway.

Bixaorellana Aug 9th, 2010 10:51 PM

Hi Emd3!

Glosean, I'm only now seeing your inquiry, so maybe this response is too late. Your tastes will of course determine what you'll want and what you're willing to pay. Check out this website for some recommendations by a woman who knows the artists and who has excellent taste: http://www.folkartfantasy.com/ As she says, those are certainly not the only people producing wonderful work.
I've posted this here before, but you might want to look at my picture reports on San Bartolo http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com...ad=3897&page=1 and on Arrazola http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com...5&page=1#48094 for an idea of what there is in those two towns.

Maryanntex gave a really good answer about bargaining. Also, the people she names, Jacopo and Maria Angeles, produce a very high level of sculpture, really head and shoulders above the majority of alebrijes. It is much more expensive as well. When you see it, you'll understand why. (The San Bartolo link has photos of one of their pieces in the museum there.)

Don't skip the Mercado de Artesanias in Oaxaca, even though it can be slightly exhausting with all the importuning. There's lots of stuff in one place. http://www.planeta.com/ecotravel/mex...ercadoart.html

It's great to hear you all are enjoying yourselves!

glover Aug 10th, 2010 10:33 AM

We visited several studios in Arrozola and ending up buying an alebrije from Armando Jimenez (part of the rather famous family of artists). I also highly recommend Jesus Sosa, who lives in San Martin Tilcajete. He does great work and is charming guy (an English student of mine a few years ago in Oaxaca). And don't miss the Centro de las Artes (beautiful building with nice exhibits) in San Augustin Etla. Also hand made paper makers in that lovely little town.


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