Iguazu, Cordoba, Mendoza--wonderful trip!
Mar 28th, 2005, 03:05 PM
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Iguazu, Cordoba, Mendoza--wonderful trip!
Just returned from three weeks in Argentina (Mar 2-Mar 22). Our trip was different than others, perhaps--my husband was returning to his homeland after 6 years, so family visits and touring familiar areas and new places were on the agenda. We also had a mix of upscale and budget accommodation, depending on where we were and what we wanted to do.
First stop, Buenos Aires suburbs, where we stayed with family and visited. Quick trips into La Capital Federal, hitting La Boca, San Telmo, Recoleta and Cafe Tortoni.
Our travel agent, Isabel Llobet, arranged much of our travel to the Argentine interior--booking flights, researching excursions, booking hotels. She was EXCELLENT--honest, hardworking and very patient! We had very definite ideas of what we wanted to do, which didn't always fit into the typical touristy plans, but she was flexible and worked with us--even when we changed our minds about our definite plans! You can reach her by email [email protected] She is in BA, and also offers tours of the Capital.
Next, we flew to Posadas, the capital of Misiones province at the crack of dawn. We were met by Miguel Tasz (arranged by Isabel), who picked us up and drove us to the Jesuit ruins at San Ignacio de Mini. Very impressive--the hour we spent there was enough and gave us good grounding for the history of Misiones (if you haven't seen the movie The Mission, rent it!). Miguel then drove us 3.5 hours into the jungle on the eastern border of the province. Because my husband is fluent in Spanish, this long drive became a great tour as Miguel told us about the history, economy, anthropology and topography of Misiones. He has his own adventure tourism business, and if we'd had enough time, we could have gone with him on a raft trip to the Mocona Falls.
As it was, our destination for the evening was Posada La Bonita, a lovely place in the jungle near the town of Soberbio, but only accessible by 4x4. The inn is comprised of several cabins suspended in the canopy of the trees, and a small restaurant to serve the guests. Our stay was lovely but too brief--two or three nights would have been perfect. Delicious meals prepared by shy Gladys--everything from homemade dulce de leche to vegetable tarts and homemade banana ice cream. (We missed her terribly once we got to the boring cafeteria food in Iguazu!)Her gregarious brother Altamiro prepared us a cocktail in the evening and told us more about life in the jungle. He and his father built the cabins. They are now opening new cabins that have been winterized due to the demand. This is a great getaway retreat--rustic, but stylish and with all the amenities you need. Natural pool with waterfall, farm animals, wonderful fauna and flora, great walks down dusty red roads.
Next afternoon, Hector, Miguel's brother-in-law (a teacher by day) drove us to Iguazu. This was a long drive we made mostly in the dark, but the roads are good and Hector is a lovely man. He took us to Hotel Orquideas in Puerto Iguazu, which is an adequate place. I think most of the hotels in Iguazu are over-rated and the food is so-so--I would put your money in high-rated hotel elsewhere, but not here. We found out about a 2-star hotel, Hotel Coronada, that is less-expensive, modest but clean, and run by a nice family--I would stay there next time. The falls are spectacular and a guide is worth it. We took the adventure boat tour which was thrilling and refreshing after a long hot walk around the falls. They drive the boat right up next to the falls and everyone gets soaked, but it is fun. We only toured the Argentine side of the falls because US citizens need a $100 visa to visit Brazil, and for a few hours we didn't think it was worth it. Everyone will tell you you should see the falls from Brazil, but we were amazed enough from Argentina!
Next day, on the recommendation of friends in the area, we visited two places in Puerto Iguazu usually missed by tourists. Guira Oga, a bird santuary, was a highlight--we saw toucans, macaws, owls, parrots, and eagles that had been rescued and were being rehabilitated. If they can't be returned to the wild, they are kept and bred so their offspring can be released into the wild. The second place was called Aripuca, named for a Guarani bird trap made of twigs--the trap catches the bird alive so if it is not one they want to eat or use, they can release it. Aripuca is an interesting place that combines natural history and tourism. You get a little history of the trees indigenous to the jungle and can help fund efforts to protect the native woods. There are several creative and interesting exhibits featuring the kinds of woods, music, handiwork, drinks, leather goods of the region--this is a great place to buy souvenirs and other goods while supporting an educational and ecological effort.
Then off to Cordoba, the Argentine vacation province that tends to be overlooked by foreign tourists. Cordoba city is a beautiful old Jesuit city, home to the continent's first university and Argentina's oldest cathedral. We stayed in the Hotel Gran Dora, a 4-star hotel whose golden age has passed, but it still has excellent service, good food, reasonable rates, and a location that can't be beat. Lots of historic sites within walking distance.
In Cordoba, we chose to be on our own, as my husband had grown up spending his summers there with his family. We rented a car and drove about 30 minutes north of the city to Villa Carlos Paz, where we stayed in a bungalow by the lake for a couple of nights($20 a night for bedroom, bath, and living space with a kitchen). Unfortunately, a rainy cold front came in while we were there, so we couldn't fully appreciate the access to a pool or the gorgeous views of the Sierras Chicas. We visited many of the villages along the lakes there--Cosquin, La Cumbre, Los Cocos. Next time, we'd stay in La Cumbre, which is a little further away from Cordoba city but very charming and less kitchy than Carlos Paz. We also drove south of Cordoba city to Alta Gracia, where we toured the Jesuit estancia--probably the best museum we saw--and had lunch in Villa General Belgrano, a charming village populated by Germans (artisan beer and apple streudel a must).
Then on to Mendoza, which is lovely--wide, tree-lined avenues, parks galore, and an endless supply of bodegas. If you like beatiful scenery and good wine, this is the place to go. I would recommend touring the city on your own--a remis can take you anywhere you want to go that is not within walking distance and often is just as helpful as one the tour companies that would cart you around. Many of the places you might visit have their own guides, plenty of whom speak some English. This is especially true of the bodegas. Decide which bodegas you want to visit, and negotiate with a remis to take you there and wait while you tour. Or rent a car--many of the bodegas are a short drive from the city.
We visited La Rural, which had a good museum and tour that gave us a foundation. Then we went to Vinas El Cerno, a very small bodega that we liked the best--artisanal, personal, and excellent wine. Even there, we had a guide who spoke English. And finally we visited Agricola, the bodega of La Familia Zaccardi, which was interesting in contrast, but our least favorite--more industrialized and obviously influenced by Napa. HOWEVER, we had a delicious lunch there, and the wine was excellent.
We ate very well in Mendoza! Other places we loved and would recommend--1884, which is the restaurant attached to Bodega Escorihuela. Delicious--probably the most expensive meal we had in Argentina at around $50 (for the two of us, wine, starters, entrees, dessert and coffee). Beautiful setting. The other restaurant--far simpler, with sidewalk seating--Don Tristan. Great service. Around the corner from our hotel, the Corollo, which was perfectly comfortable (but nothing fancy), right in the heart of the city, and offered free transfer to/from the airport. The Princess, its higher-priced sister hotel, is right next door.
For our last two nights/three days in Mendoza, we splurged. We hired a remis and drove out to the Hotel Termal Cacheuta, which is a thermal spa/boutique inn nestled in the foothills of the Andes--just 25 miles from Mendoza city. LOVELY--rates include three meals, a massage, and access to a variety of thermal baths A DAY. Just what we needed! Other activities are also offered--hiking, horseback riding, and so forth. A great place to relax and decompress--and prepare for a return to BA and more late night visits with family! There are only 16 rooms in the inn, so you also have chance to get to know the other guests if you are so inclined. A driver picked us up late in the afternoon and took us straight to the airport. The hotel was very accommodating, and while we had to check out, they kept our bags while we enjoyed another full day of the spa services.
Our last several days in BA were spent with family before heading home. For the next trip (which we hope to be before another 6 years!) we want to go south to Patagonia and El Calafate...
First stop, Buenos Aires suburbs, where we stayed with family and visited. Quick trips into La Capital Federal, hitting La Boca, San Telmo, Recoleta and Cafe Tortoni.
Our travel agent, Isabel Llobet, arranged much of our travel to the Argentine interior--booking flights, researching excursions, booking hotels. She was EXCELLENT--honest, hardworking and very patient! We had very definite ideas of what we wanted to do, which didn't always fit into the typical touristy plans, but she was flexible and worked with us--even when we changed our minds about our definite plans! You can reach her by email [email protected] She is in BA, and also offers tours of the Capital.
Next, we flew to Posadas, the capital of Misiones province at the crack of dawn. We were met by Miguel Tasz (arranged by Isabel), who picked us up and drove us to the Jesuit ruins at San Ignacio de Mini. Very impressive--the hour we spent there was enough and gave us good grounding for the history of Misiones (if you haven't seen the movie The Mission, rent it!). Miguel then drove us 3.5 hours into the jungle on the eastern border of the province. Because my husband is fluent in Spanish, this long drive became a great tour as Miguel told us about the history, economy, anthropology and topography of Misiones. He has his own adventure tourism business, and if we'd had enough time, we could have gone with him on a raft trip to the Mocona Falls.
As it was, our destination for the evening was Posada La Bonita, a lovely place in the jungle near the town of Soberbio, but only accessible by 4x4. The inn is comprised of several cabins suspended in the canopy of the trees, and a small restaurant to serve the guests. Our stay was lovely but too brief--two or three nights would have been perfect. Delicious meals prepared by shy Gladys--everything from homemade dulce de leche to vegetable tarts and homemade banana ice cream. (We missed her terribly once we got to the boring cafeteria food in Iguazu!)Her gregarious brother Altamiro prepared us a cocktail in the evening and told us more about life in the jungle. He and his father built the cabins. They are now opening new cabins that have been winterized due to the demand. This is a great getaway retreat--rustic, but stylish and with all the amenities you need. Natural pool with waterfall, farm animals, wonderful fauna and flora, great walks down dusty red roads.
Next afternoon, Hector, Miguel's brother-in-law (a teacher by day) drove us to Iguazu. This was a long drive we made mostly in the dark, but the roads are good and Hector is a lovely man. He took us to Hotel Orquideas in Puerto Iguazu, which is an adequate place. I think most of the hotels in Iguazu are over-rated and the food is so-so--I would put your money in high-rated hotel elsewhere, but not here. We found out about a 2-star hotel, Hotel Coronada, that is less-expensive, modest but clean, and run by a nice family--I would stay there next time. The falls are spectacular and a guide is worth it. We took the adventure boat tour which was thrilling and refreshing after a long hot walk around the falls. They drive the boat right up next to the falls and everyone gets soaked, but it is fun. We only toured the Argentine side of the falls because US citizens need a $100 visa to visit Brazil, and for a few hours we didn't think it was worth it. Everyone will tell you you should see the falls from Brazil, but we were amazed enough from Argentina!
Next day, on the recommendation of friends in the area, we visited two places in Puerto Iguazu usually missed by tourists. Guira Oga, a bird santuary, was a highlight--we saw toucans, macaws, owls, parrots, and eagles that had been rescued and were being rehabilitated. If they can't be returned to the wild, they are kept and bred so their offspring can be released into the wild. The second place was called Aripuca, named for a Guarani bird trap made of twigs--the trap catches the bird alive so if it is not one they want to eat or use, they can release it. Aripuca is an interesting place that combines natural history and tourism. You get a little history of the trees indigenous to the jungle and can help fund efforts to protect the native woods. There are several creative and interesting exhibits featuring the kinds of woods, music, handiwork, drinks, leather goods of the region--this is a great place to buy souvenirs and other goods while supporting an educational and ecological effort.
Then off to Cordoba, the Argentine vacation province that tends to be overlooked by foreign tourists. Cordoba city is a beautiful old Jesuit city, home to the continent's first university and Argentina's oldest cathedral. We stayed in the Hotel Gran Dora, a 4-star hotel whose golden age has passed, but it still has excellent service, good food, reasonable rates, and a location that can't be beat. Lots of historic sites within walking distance.
In Cordoba, we chose to be on our own, as my husband had grown up spending his summers there with his family. We rented a car and drove about 30 minutes north of the city to Villa Carlos Paz, where we stayed in a bungalow by the lake for a couple of nights($20 a night for bedroom, bath, and living space with a kitchen). Unfortunately, a rainy cold front came in while we were there, so we couldn't fully appreciate the access to a pool or the gorgeous views of the Sierras Chicas. We visited many of the villages along the lakes there--Cosquin, La Cumbre, Los Cocos. Next time, we'd stay in La Cumbre, which is a little further away from Cordoba city but very charming and less kitchy than Carlos Paz. We also drove south of Cordoba city to Alta Gracia, where we toured the Jesuit estancia--probably the best museum we saw--and had lunch in Villa General Belgrano, a charming village populated by Germans (artisan beer and apple streudel a must).
Then on to Mendoza, which is lovely--wide, tree-lined avenues, parks galore, and an endless supply of bodegas. If you like beatiful scenery and good wine, this is the place to go. I would recommend touring the city on your own--a remis can take you anywhere you want to go that is not within walking distance and often is just as helpful as one the tour companies that would cart you around. Many of the places you might visit have their own guides, plenty of whom speak some English. This is especially true of the bodegas. Decide which bodegas you want to visit, and negotiate with a remis to take you there and wait while you tour. Or rent a car--many of the bodegas are a short drive from the city.
We visited La Rural, which had a good museum and tour that gave us a foundation. Then we went to Vinas El Cerno, a very small bodega that we liked the best--artisanal, personal, and excellent wine. Even there, we had a guide who spoke English. And finally we visited Agricola, the bodega of La Familia Zaccardi, which was interesting in contrast, but our least favorite--more industrialized and obviously influenced by Napa. HOWEVER, we had a delicious lunch there, and the wine was excellent.
We ate very well in Mendoza! Other places we loved and would recommend--1884, which is the restaurant attached to Bodega Escorihuela. Delicious--probably the most expensive meal we had in Argentina at around $50 (for the two of us, wine, starters, entrees, dessert and coffee). Beautiful setting. The other restaurant--far simpler, with sidewalk seating--Don Tristan. Great service. Around the corner from our hotel, the Corollo, which was perfectly comfortable (but nothing fancy), right in the heart of the city, and offered free transfer to/from the airport. The Princess, its higher-priced sister hotel, is right next door.
For our last two nights/three days in Mendoza, we splurged. We hired a remis and drove out to the Hotel Termal Cacheuta, which is a thermal spa/boutique inn nestled in the foothills of the Andes--just 25 miles from Mendoza city. LOVELY--rates include three meals, a massage, and access to a variety of thermal baths A DAY. Just what we needed! Other activities are also offered--hiking, horseback riding, and so forth. A great place to relax and decompress--and prepare for a return to BA and more late night visits with family! There are only 16 rooms in the inn, so you also have chance to get to know the other guests if you are so inclined. A driver picked us up late in the afternoon and took us straight to the airport. The hotel was very accommodating, and while we had to check out, they kept our bags while we enjoyed another full day of the spa services.
Our last several days in BA were spent with family before heading home. For the next trip (which we hope to be before another 6 years!) we want to go south to Patagonia and El Calafate...
Dec 30th, 2006, 02:18 PM
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Wow! I just found your trip report and I am so surprised no one has commented on it!
I will definitely be referring back to this as I am in the beginning stages of planning a trip for late next year.
I have been considering a few days around Cordoba so reading this was very helpful.
Cheers!
I will definitely be referring back to this as I am in the beginning stages of planning a trip for late next year.
I have been considering a few days around Cordoba so reading this was very helpful.
Cheers!
Aug 5th, 2007, 08:06 PM
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Thank you very much for your great report.It was just what I need.we will be arriving into Santiago from Perth Australia which is a very long flight! this will be the end of January.we were planning to fly to Mendoza for 3 days to recover there but I am worried that it will be very hot.we have lots of great vineyards here,so they are not particularly interesting to us. we would love to stay in a beautiful place in the mountains somewhere near Mendoza (because the flights are booked already).any suggestions most appreciated. Thanks Sally
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