Jessie - a cab picked us up several miles outside Carate (after we cut 7 or 8 brand new strands of barbed wire to access the road) We never saw the town. The cab ride was long - say almost 2 hrs going through Matapalo. It was late afternoon as we met the cab and dark when we returned to the Iguana. I was told we had taken the old route before the road existed. Our one english-speaking guide had never done the route and seemed as excited as us to see familiar landmarks from a different perspective. He rode back with us in the cab. The other 2 guys had flashlights in their packs and prepared to ride back the way we had come with all of the horses. It poured that night and they had several hours riding in the dark.boulders and debris up to their bellies all the while climbing up and around large hillsides. I would describe them as willys jeeps in horseflesh. They were used to it, bred for it, and trained for the purpose. We just gave them their heads and followed the one guy who knew where we were. (a true Costa Rican cowboy whose house was several hours into the jungle and the last structure we passed on the way up the mountain) At one point a section of trail did collapse with a guide and horse. The guide jumped off avoiding the slide and large vegetation and a lessening of pitch quickly stopped the horse’s fall. After a brief attempt to drive the horse back up the way he (actually she) had come another path was cut bringing the horse back to the main trail. Horse and rider were fine and we all got a collective charge from the experience as one does in a close call. The average person would not have enjoyed this site and we began to understand why this ride was no longer offered as a tour. My wife, who rides several horses everyday, was well, rubbed in a few spots. She blamed it on her nylon pants. Most people would not want to spend that long in the saddle and might prefer a tamer ride on the beach. Our guides kept asking us whether we wanted to rest and were surprised when we refused. I am sure many people identify themselves as experienced riders. Don’t get me wrong. Anyone could do it. We barely got out of a walk after we switched horses but the terrain and condition of the trail was intimidating. It would have killed anything we ride back in the states but these horses handled it and were well suited for the purpose.I too have read many stories of the general poor condition of horses in CR but have not had similar experiences on our 2 trips. We would not have participated if the horses looked poorly or the operation looked disorganized whatsoever. Hopefully conditions have improved and the people running tours have figured out that not taking care of your stock costs more in the long run. Granted, these horses worked hard for our pleasure but the at no point did we feel their treatment was cruel or that we were asking too much although we were in awe of what they willingly did- lots of trust with their handlers(grooms in the US). With that said I have heard and read awful things about the ride from Arenal to Montaverde and I am sure I would not have to look that hard to find horses in poor condition when used for financial profit. Luckily we have not seen it.Our first trip to CR we rode at Punta Islita. Very tame but private and fun. We had never ridden down a deserted beach or gone in the ocean on horseback(neither had our guide). The horses belonged to the owner of the hotel and were also in good condition and the ride was not taxing whatsoever. I think if you ask around you can find responsible outfits for recreational riding. If the horses do not appear to be in good shape say no thank you and explain why.

Thank you for the detailed description of your trip. Sounds like it might be a pretty rough trip. If your wife is that experienced and was a little rubbed, then I know we would be pretty uncomfortable. Those horses sound amazing. I have been seeing more and more well cared for horses. There have been a lot of complaints over the years and I think they were taken to heart.

We have done some full day rides up in the mountains in Montana and Wyoming but except for just one trip where the narrow trail started to collapse and someone fell off their horse when it slid, our trips have been pretty uneventful (other than the wonderful bear, moose, elk, and pronghorn sightings of course!).

I'll bet someone wasn't real happy about the barbed wire! I won't tell.

You didn't miss much by not seeing Carate. It is just a little pulpuria and a cheap motel with no electricity at the end of the road. Luna Lodge is set back aways up the river and the tent camps are further up the beach with no road access. Except for a couple of lodges just before you get to the end of the road, that is about it.

ernien,
Thank you for the information about el remanso. It sounds great! Was the path to the beach difficult? Just wondered if our daughter who will be nine would be able to traverse it.

Thank you, too, for info about la vida encanta. It is so good to know before you go!!

I swear I double spaced in Word and it did not transfer when I posted- sorry

the path isn't difficult, just a bit of a trudge. you're allowed to stop as many times as you want on the way up. no extra charge. just tell your daughter that if cameron diaz can do it she can too.(mtv shot a special there on the rainforest and they stayed a el remanso.)

Thanks, ernien. I bet that we could do it.