hola from La Paz, Mexico
 

Arrived yesterday late afternoon - long flight from NY to DF then DF to La Paz ( a two hour flight). Planning on seeing the whales Tuesday. Had some wonderful briney oysters and sopa mariscos last night. This is a nice change of pace from my previous 3 trips - I like the laid back feel of La Paz, the palm trees, the mountains, no pressure to do anything - glad I chose to stay here instead of Cabo. Anyway - after twelve hours of sleeps last night I off to explore....

Just a quick note. Saw the grey whales yesterday - a mother and calf actually came up to the boat - I touched a whale, amazing. Went to Isola Espiratu today - really crystalized what Baja means to me. Also swam with the sea lions until one headed straight for me with teeth bared - I got back in the boat somewhat quickly ( at least grey whales don´t have teeth) Will post more when I get back.

Dear Carta:

Can't wait to hear more. We will be in Cabo next week and hope to get up to La Paz.

MY

I really enjoyed La Paz, thanks for writing us.

For breakfast this morning I had seafood tacos - lagosta, marlin, oyster, shrimp, etc. Did a day trip to San Jose del Cabo yesterday - passed by Cabo San Lucas. Amazing these towns aren´t on the water like La Paz. Heard that one can see whales from the beach in Todos Santos - doing a day trip there tomorrow. While La Paz may not have that architectural romantic ambience I associate with Mexico - the setting and laid back tone are wonderful. Adios...

Hola Cara Pisana
This is a whole year since you posted, but we're heading to La Paz this Spring. Just wanted to ask about your whale trip and where you stayed!

I really like the Club El Moro (hotel) in La Paz.

I too would love to know where you're staying, and the names of restaurants you like in La Paz. My DH and I will be there for a week in late February. I'm very excited about whale watching - what arrangements did you make to do it? A friend of mine went last year and a whale swam under her panga boat at a right angle and gently lifted her boat out of the water and then gently lowered it back down! She said she was able to pet a mother whale and her baby. Unbelievable! Thanks for posting.

Oops! I just noticed the date on your posting and realize that you must be back by now...Is there another post that you did later about your trip?

Thanks.

I love La Paz so much that I moved here permanently in September from the USA.

Do not come to La Paz if you want World Heritage site architecture, great museums or a hard-core clubbing scene.

Do come to La Paz if you want to relax and meet real Mexicans in a laid-back atmosphere.

Hit the beaches. They are wonderful. You can get to some by walking or by taking a bus, but I'd recommend renting a car for at least some of the time here. This will give you easy access to the best beaches.

Balandra is the most scenic beach and has nice, shallow, warm waters and wonderful beaches. Tecolote is also beautiful but has more wave action.

If you want real solitude and lots of wildlife, head past the airport and keep right to head around to the other side of the bay. There are some wonderful beaches there.

Fishing here is wonderful. The Sea of Cortez is full of life. You can take an expedition to Isla Espiritu to catch all the action (recently made a UN protected site).

La Paz has a real, old-time downtown, that cries out for walking, looking, and people-watching. The malecon (the boardwalk along the bay)is full of people on weekend evenings.

Take in the famous violet sunsets.

You're not likely to have a bad meal here. To eat cheaply, try Super Tacos downtown, just up from the (now defunct due to fire)parking lot of La Perla. For a very moderate price, try the Cafe Callejon, in an alley off the malecon. For an expensive but superb meal, try the Restaurante Ostineria on the Malecon.

My friends love El Moro and the price and location are right.

Just out of "el centro" or downtown, on Abasolo, is the weaving factory. You can watch the weavers make the fabrics on hand-looms and buy small rugs and other items at very low prices.

Triunfo is an old-mining town about a 50 minute drive from La Paz that is frozen in time. Head to Cabo, but don't go to Todos Santos. Take the mountain route to Cabo instead.

Do be careful of the speed trap in San Pedro, just over from La Paz.

In Triunfo, check out the old architecture and the local artisan shop.

The "pacenos" are noted for their warmth, openness and hospitality. You will probably feel safer here than in the States or Canada. But do keep watch on purses and wallets. There is some petty theft about.

Some Spanish is helpful. The kids here speak English but their elders often do not.

The sun is intense; this is a desert. Lots of UV stuff getting through. Use sunscreen and drink bottled water.

A cultural note: When you ask directions, take them with a grain of salt. In Mexican culture, saying "I don't know" is considered impolite because one is supposed to help strangers in need.

Another cultural note: This is a small city/town. You are likely to bump into people that you already know by the third day. Always stop, shake hands and/or give an air kiss. Relationships are primary in Mexico, not your schedule.

was checking my Guatemala post and saw this post from last year - will sift through my febble brain and post what I can remember

eats:
Bismarck Cito.
The oysters were briney and fresh but the real treat were the various seafood tacos. Smoked marlin (20 pesos), langosta (50 pesos), oysters in chipotle (30 pesos), scallops (30 pesos), cameron (15 pesos), pescado (10 pesos). There are various salsa slaws and toppings to add - you can easily make a meal out of two. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Never thought I would eat seafood tacos for breakfast - but they were a great way to start the day.

Super Tacos de Baja California-Sur
Super Tacos has moved two blocks from it's original location. They serve all the standard seafood tacos and in various ways but the real treat is their salsas - about 15 types. I prefered Bismark Cito's preparation more but you can't go to La Paz and not eat here at least once.

Rancho Viejo
Melt in your mouth tacos de arrachera - deliicous.

I stayed at Posada de las Flores. I don't think I would stay there again - a bit too pricey, average breakfast and about a 10 minute walk from the hub of activity (which means walking along the malacon, which is glorious).

I've got to rumage around to find the the name of the tour company - I think it was Azul Tours - not sure - I'll have to check. We went to Bahia de Magdelena on the west coast of Baja.

Easy bus trip to Todos Santos - saw whales there too.

This thread is making me jones for some smoked marlin tacos.

Any other questions, feel free to ask...

Thanks Carta for the report. Please let us know who you used for the tour to Magdalena. Planning for a trip in the future!!

MY

MichelleY-
Azul Tours
[email protected]
Jose Orozco

I also did the Isola Espiratu tour through them. Nice, friendly good guys.
Tell him Mark from NYC says hola.....and I know I still owe him a copy of the tape of the mother and calf coming up to our boat.

We just got back from La Paz, its a wonderful city. really enjoyed walking the malecon and watching the amazing sunsets. Don't miss Las Tres Virgenes, we had the best dinner we have ever had in Mexico there. For tacos i suggest Bismark at the malecon.

I am very interested if dr mike or anyone else can clarify, about good beaches you can walk to, or how & where to catch a bus to get to them in town.

This was one thing I was unable to figure out myself, that I sure would have liked to.

You can catch buses to various beaches from the bus station which is about midpoint along the malacon. Easy to understand schedule - numerous buses.

It was a tad chilly breezy on the beach in February.

To: DRMIKEPHD

Please e-mail me at :
[email protected]

I need to speak to someone who resides in La Paz.
Thanks,
Gary