Greetings from San Cristobal. While you’re here consider taking a tour to Chamula with Alex y Raul Tours. They go every day, show up in front of the cathedral by 9:30, no reservations required or taken so go whenever the spirit moves you, M$250. What a deal! I went this past Thursday, Dia de los Muertos in full swing, but it’s a place, I suspect, that never disappoints.

https://alexyraultours.wordpress.com/

My month is over on Sunday, so sorry we didn’t coincide. Maybe another time. Have a fabulous spin through this great country.

I agree! That tour was a highlight of my time in the area. :)

I think you've got a great trip mapped out. Each place, I think you'll find, will have its own vibe and 'sabor' if you will. I love that about Mexico's colonial cities. Provecho!
P.S. Bring a sweater. It's been trending kinda cool with some light rain lately.

Yes, evening sweater (or for me a fleece pullover) here, too.

Thanks guys! Our merino fleeces are packed! Bizzarely, we have been house/pet sitting on Englands North Sea Coast where in November we would normally expect to be freezing, but have been walking the dog in tee shirts. What’s going on with the weather?

It is a shame we didn’t get to meet up MmePerdu. Maybe one day..thanks for the link to the tour. Thtabis definitely on the list.

Buen viajje, Crellston! Sounds like a wonderful trip. Think you are both going to fall in love with Mexico!

Couple of restaurant suggestions in San Miguel centro, both right off the jardin: Pueblo Viejo for their jicama tacos. They're normally just on the menu for their rooftop terrace, La Azotea, but you can ask for them in the main restaurant too. 1/2 price Mojitos & Margaritas Monday - Thursday, except holiday weeks. Los Milagros on Relox for the molcajetes. Both places have live music.

@Mme. Perdu and kja- Thanks for thé confirmation that you both enjoyed Alex y Raul tours. They are definitely on my plans to do a day trip to San Juan Chamula. I leave on Dec. 9 for 5 nights in Mexico City, followed by 3 nights in San Cristobal de las Casas and I CAN’T WAIT!! Good reminder on the chilly nights also. I’m planning to take both a leather jacket and a couple of sweaters for the evenings in both cities.

@ crellston &
@ MinnBeef:

If your guide for the Alex y Raul tour of the indigenous villages surrounding San Cristobal de las Casas asks for a volunteer -- step up! Truly an amazing experience. :) Perhaps MmePerdu knows why I would say so.

No, I don’t know why. I suspect Dia de los Muertos made it a different tour than usual. We spent a chunk of time at the Chamula cemetery and because of not-the-usual ceremonies going on at the church we had to go twice to get inside. I guess you’ll have to tell us (or save the surprise).

Tonight I’m staying in Chiapa de Corzo to be closer to the airport for flights home tomorrow. The road blockades by the teachers have ended, a sudden influx of tourists was noticeable when people could finally get in & out. Since I’d been there for 4 weeks I was oblivious, got the scoop yesterday. I’d been thinking about coming down anyway so here I am. Kind of a nice town for an overnight.

Oh, sorry! Yes, I'll save the surprise. :)

I loved the fountain in Chiapa de Corzo -- give it a nod for me, if you would MmePerdu. And safe journeys!

I didn’t see a fountain, or maybe I didn’t know it was a fountain. La Pila, maybe, in the parque? Big brick arches? If that’s it I was completely distracted by 3 young men playing drums. I’d been over by the big church (a lot of damage from the earthquakes, I’m assuming, also to churches in SC). I heard what sounded like a large group of marching drummers and headed over, only to find all that sound was coming from just those 3.

Yes, La Pila is the fountain.

Baldone - have been adding you restaurant rec. to my spreadsheet and have every intention of exploiting to the full!

Kja - I will bear your suggestions in mind re volunteering, although I have to say, that volunteering without knowing for what, has got me into a lot of trouble in the past :-)

Minnbeef - arrived in CDMX a few days ago armed with fleeces, etc. And have been walking around in tee shirts day and night. Gorgeous weather!

I passed through MEX several hours ago and it was warm, but not as warm as where I left midday, something like 90 in Chiapa de Corzo/TGZ airport. But just wait, one of these days you’ll be glad you have them.

OK, I'll pretend I wrote a TR:
I didn't exactly volunteer; it was more a case of being asked by the guide (I think because I was the only solo adult in our group), but that was OK. The main result was that the guide demonstrated traditional healing / religious rituals with me -- I was brushed (gently) with -- IIRC -- a combination of evergreens and elderberry, and an egg (still in its shell) was rolled over me -- things like that. (No chickens were killed for our demo.) I found it surprisingly gentle and interesting. As the volunteer, I could see and hear everything, and that was really the best part The ritual was performed inside a church where real ceremonies were going on, and so we had to be very quiet, and even though our group was not large, it would -- I think -- have been easy to miss part of what the guide said or what he did if you weren't the person to whom it was being done.

OK, one more for drinks: La Mezcalaria about 3 blocks from the jardin on Correo. White chili infused mezcal margaritas with cilantro, cucumber (which makes them healthy) and sal de gusano. A bit pricey, as are their tapas. Tiny, noisy, hipster place.

Ekscrunchy, we will be arriving in Patzcuarao in a couple of weeks and spending four days there before moving on to Guadalajara for Xmas. Any tips for Patzcuarao and the surrounding area would be very much appreciated!