Help, please! Itinerary advice & less-touristy recommendations
 

Hi! Traveling to Costa Rica on July 13 and have 12 days (excluding to/from CR travel). There are so many options! Need advice, so I can clarify our itinerary.

(A little helpful [?] info): We are travelers who tend to shy away from heavily touristed hot spots. Obviously, CR is a tourist destination. What I mean is within that, we like to venture out and find places with local charm and offerings. We plan to spend most of our time hiking, adventuring and, OK, hopefully getting some amazing outdoor massages. Any recs for those;)?)

I have three types of questions:

1. I think there's time to hit three regions in 12 days. Osa Peninsula/Corcovado NP is a must. How much time would you spend? And would you make it a point to have one night in Puerto Jimenez? Second, is Arenal. Third is up for grabs. Looking for a spot that is must-see, but isn't super super touristy. Osa is more our speed, but I really want to see and do the exciting things in Arenal. Third spot could be built around an incredible, must-do activity.

Seems that Monteverde and Arenal are somewhat similar and doing just Arenal will be satisfying.

2. Any excellent recommendations for lodging or restaurants for vegetarians?

3. Is everything cool with the local puddle-jumper airplanes? We may take one or two. Is it OK during the rainy season or do those flights tend to get grounded?

Thanks in advance for any advice that comes my way. Cheers!

The Osa and Arenal are two of our favorite areas. What about Tortuguero for off the beaten path? It's a neat canal based environment. Tortuga Lodge is wonderful with great food and great service, and they let us tour and eat on our own vs. being put into an assigned group to eat with. You would be there during turtle egg laying season so that would be an awesome tour to do. Bosque del Cabo on the Osa is amazing. For Arenal, we love the Lost Iguana. Nayara is also nice, but LI feel more jungly and less touristy since it's on the edge of town next to the lake and the Hanging Bridges. We've taken Sansa several times during the rainy season. It's located right next to SJO so more convenient for us than Nature Air.

Make that feels. :)

Thanks, Volcanogirl.

I've noticed you are an advocate for LI. It does look like a nice place. And the hanging bridges are on my list! I've thought about Tortuguero, but wasn't sure because our time in CR seems pretty short, once you calculate the travel times and the offerings in each spot. I will check it out more. Appreciate it.

Tortuguero is worth about two nights stay. There's tons of wildlife when you tour the canals, and then the turtle hike is done at night. When we stayed at LI, they sold half price tickets to the Hanging Bridges at the front desk, so you might check on that if you're interested. The views from LI are amazing, and I love their balconies. I'd also suggest going to Eco Termales - a small, locally owned charming natural hot spring - nice for the evening.

Is it walkable from LI to the main part of La Fortuna town (proper)? I was eyeing ET, too! Thanks. Do you live in CR?

No, no way it's walkable. It's away from town, so big grounds and more wildlife, birds, etc. If you stay there, you'd either take a taxi or want to have a car. We don't live there, but we try to go once a year. Things in that area are very spread out. Nayara is closer to town, but we missed all the trails and big property that LI offers when we stayed there. LI also has a spa. I believe Nayara does too. I see some massages in your future. Tabacon is a more touristy elaborate hot springs. It was crowded for us, but they're supposed to have a wonderful spa.

We are considering La Leona on Osa. Have you heard anything about it. Also, probably no Tabacon; not into doing a super resort on this trip. Thank you, though!

One more question: Is Osa/Corcovado and Manuel Antonio similar? And Drake, too? Also other spots that have been recommended.

No, the Osa and Manuel Antonio are not similar. The Osa is sort of wild and untamed, lots of great hiking and wildlife. Most people stay at a lodge and eat most of their meals there. Manuel Antonio has a lot of tourists and the wildlife is very used to people. The monkeys can open bags of potato chips there, and there are tons of restaurant choices and a beautiful beach inside the park. If you want to get away from it all, MA is not for you, although it is nice. I wasn't suggesting Tabacon to stay, just the spa because it gets raves, but we've never tried it.

Thank you so much for all of the helpful advice. And for taking the time to answer my incessant questions!

You're welcome, olive - ask away!

Incredible, must-do activity could imply rafting the Pacuare, but that's obviously not for everyone.

RAC, we would love to do that. Unfortunately, my husband has some physical limitations right now. Sad to have to cross that off the list.

Volcanogirl... I started another post about this, too. I was going to leave the last third of the itinerary unbooked and see where we end up. Have you done this?

No, I'm too much of a super planner for that - lol, but I think you'd be fine to do it. You're not going at a super busy time. I like to book specific hotels, rooms, views, and all that. If you aren't picky then go for it.

La Leona is a great, fun choice. Nice tents and close to the park entry. Here is a link to my trip report http://www.fodors.com/community/mexi...ip-mayjune.cfm and photos http://www.fodors.com/community/mexi...bo-xandari.cfm from a couple years ago. July you should be fine winging it, but keep in mind places on the Osa are remote and sometimes tricky to get to. So I'd at least give a call to make sure room is available before heading out.

thanks, tully. i will check out your report. i'm going to book the osa part, for sure. and also arenal. after that, i might leave it open.

Not trying to "muddy the waters" but since you have chosen two places with tropical humid forests why not look at a highland area for your third choice? I think you would find the cooler temperatures of the mountains a welcome break from the heat of Arenal and the Osa.Logistically, Monteverde would be a good choice but there are plenty of other areas to look at- San Gerardo and Copey de Dota, Wilson botanical gardens near San Vito, and the Los Angeles cloud forest reserve all offer plenty of hiking,wildlife, and very few tourists. Even though Arenal and Monteverde are close together they are vastly different in climate, flora and fauna.

I always agree with RTJ

olive_sage; I spend a great deal of time researching travel because I get tremendous pleasure from finding things off the beaten path. Friends and family come to me to put trips together for them that is personalized and reflects just what interests them. I love to discover hidden gems, get a real sense of the culture, etc.

Have spent the last few months making plans for our 2nd trip to CR which will be this December. My first trip was so amazing which is why we have chosen to return. This time it will be completely different and will not be repeating anything. Not knowing how things are going to come together for you at this beginning stage, I have posted some links of highlights of locations of the last trip and this upcoming one. I figured you can browse around these sites if you wish and while doing so it may become more clear to you what you feel most drawn to, what kind of experiences you desire and then see how you can put together the plan. I agree that 3 locations is a good number for the amount of time you will be there. I am happy to answer any questions you have or provide a lot more information. As you read and explore info keep aware of what stirs a little excitement, curiosity, challenge, etc. CR is amazing, so much to see, do, experience, the people are so hospitable.... I remember when planning my first trip to CR I read LOTS of reviews and trip reports and heard just a couple of times about La Carolina mixed in the tons of reviews of the typical tourist places. My curiosity was piqued and we made it on our plan and were so thrilled to have trusted the quiet little voice that said go to La Carolina. Listen for the quiet voice.

By the way, these links are in no particular order but some areas can be combined for an amazing trip. Of course there are things to do that are incredible around each one of these.

http://www.biothermales.com
http://www.lacarolinalodge.com
http://www.lookout-inn.com
http://www.tiki-villas.com
http://www.ylangylangbeachresort.com
http://www.buenavistalodgecr.com/tours.html
http://www.monteazulcr.com/

Artie and Juldie, thank you so much!

Artie, I love the suggestions of trying the highlands, and that's a great point about our two other climates being similar. I will definitely look into that.

Juldie, I think we are already aligned by your Lookout Inn suggestion! I had been in contact with them, and I loved the place. In the end, we ended up booking with La Leona, and that's just because Leona is locally owned (I guess you'd say) — that tipped the scale their way.

Have fun at La Leona. Saw my first and only tapir on the trail right behind the lodge, so good luck!

olive_sage - The Osa is amazing and fits your request for an out of the way place to enjoy Costa Rica. (do skip Puerto Jimenez though). In 2004, we stayed in Cabo Matapalo at Kapu Rancho Almendros, almost right on the beach, hiked up to a beautiful waterfall where you can jump in and go swimming, and all the way up to Bosque del Cabo (you'll hear mention on this many times on this forum) for fantastic views of the beach where we began. We saw more wildlife in the Osa than we did our entire rest of our trip (we stayed in Arenal and Monteverde on this same trip). Saw poison dart frogs, leaf cutter ants, sloths, howler monkeys, too many scarlet macaws to even count, blue morpho butterflies, etc. You will have a great time in the Osa no matter your specific choice of hotel.

Juldie - I just wanted to let you know that because of your post my itinerary will now include a stay at the La Carolina Lodge. One night? Two nights? What's your opinion? This is twice now that I have revised my itinerary to include somewhere mentioned be someone on this forum that I would have otherwise overlooked. Thank you for taking the time to post!

coryandcarissa; I am glad to hear you picked up on the suggestion. As I said back 6 years ago when planning the 1st trip to CR I saw La Carolina slightly mentioned buried in trip reports from way back. I definitely suggest 2 nights. I stayed 1 and it was not enough. Enjoy the grounds with the river and natural wood fired hot tub. Do not miss taking the hike to Rio Celeste (what you see pictured on their website). It it exquisite of an experience; the guide who led us was informative along the way. The whole experience of the hike there to then arrive at such a spot to behold was a spiritual moment for sure in my life that I won't forget.

I stayed at La Leona before and after a 2-night trip into Corcovado. I think you'll enjoy it greatly. They helped me get a permit for the hike (stayed at La Sirena ranger station) and connected me with a very good guide too.

On the Osa I also stayed 2 nights at Ojo del Mar, closer to Pto Jimenez, very delicious vegetarian meals, yoga, (probably massage) and had a tent option that was not so expensive as La Leona (although not the same wilderness experience). http://www.ojodelmar.com/

Because of the transportation (bus from San Isidro; colectivo to Carate for La Leona), I needed to break up my trip from north in Pto Jimenez. I wouldn't make a special trip to go there but it was pleasant enough and helpful to have access to things like internet and laundry a week into my trip.

I like the suggestion of adding in the highlands. Even in the winter, I enjoyed a break from the heat/humidity (I'm a wimp about hot weather, but Corcovado was worth it anyway). I went to Chirippo Natl Park and hiked up to CR's highest peak. The hike is brutal (7000 ft elevation gain in 14 miles up; sleep in a cold, bare-bones lodge for a 3 a.m. departure for the peak itself) but truly spectacular, encompassing multiple ecosystems away from development. And it seems to be a graduation rite of passage, so you meet more Costa Ricans there than in some more touristy areas. You can, however, stay outside the park and just day-hike into the area. I recommend the hostel Casa Mariposa in S. Gerardo de Rivas.

I only passed through there, but the highlands around San Gerardo de Dota were recommended to me. At 9000 ft, you'll cool down. Fantastic birding; other options like mountain biking, fishing, horseback riding. Savegre Hotel de Montana, Trogon Lodge, Cabinas El Quetzal are possibilities.

Have a wonderful time. I see you're leaving very soon so perhaps my tips come too late; sorry.