Help--Oaxaca & Cuernavaca next week!
Mar 23rd, 2005, 11:35 AM
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Help--Oaxaca & Cuernavaca next week!
sorry if some of this is repetitive!
We are doing our usual last-minute "let's go somewhere next week" trip and heading to central Mexico for our first time, for 11 days (we've only been to Baja and Manzanillo). My husband and I are former around-the-world backpackers and are currently learning Spanish, and we prefer authentic surroundings as opposed to tourist havens. But since we are taking our 8 year old (who, as I've mentioned in a previous post, has serious phobias of bathroom germs) our priority is for him to have a positive experience as we want to start traveling to Mexico on a regular basis (and ultimately onto Africa, Asia, etc).
We are going to Oaxaca first, for seven days, then flying to Mexico City, where we figured we might head straight to Cuernavaca for some R&R. Our son is into reading, science, environmentalism and nature, loves flowers, birds, etc. and is interested in jewelry making, pottery and folk dancing. Unfortunately, being that he's incredibly phobic of bathroom germs (i.e. he won't use the same hand towel twice) this will most likely play havoc with his willingness to explore neighboring villages (his mantra is that he has to be within 1 mile of a clean bathroom at all times). Our goal of the trip is to gently introduce him to the "real" Mexico. He's an adventurous eater (albeit a self-proclaimed vegetarian) so food is not an issue. I know he would love those Cuernavaca resorts with all the surrounding gardens, but so far the ones I've found don't allow children.
Perhaps our whole scenario sounds like an impossibility, but I figured I'd put it out there to see if anyone has any ideas as to hotels, easy sidetrips, personal guides, etc. We typically travel on a modest budget, but we're willing to splurge. p.s. My husband is in the restaurant business and great food, be it in the local market or fancy restaurant, is his personal goal.
Thanks for listening!
We are doing our usual last-minute "let's go somewhere next week" trip and heading to central Mexico for our first time, for 11 days (we've only been to Baja and Manzanillo). My husband and I are former around-the-world backpackers and are currently learning Spanish, and we prefer authentic surroundings as opposed to tourist havens. But since we are taking our 8 year old (who, as I've mentioned in a previous post, has serious phobias of bathroom germs) our priority is for him to have a positive experience as we want to start traveling to Mexico on a regular basis (and ultimately onto Africa, Asia, etc).
We are going to Oaxaca first, for seven days, then flying to Mexico City, where we figured we might head straight to Cuernavaca for some R&R. Our son is into reading, science, environmentalism and nature, loves flowers, birds, etc. and is interested in jewelry making, pottery and folk dancing. Unfortunately, being that he's incredibly phobic of bathroom germs (i.e. he won't use the same hand towel twice) this will most likely play havoc with his willingness to explore neighboring villages (his mantra is that he has to be within 1 mile of a clean bathroom at all times). Our goal of the trip is to gently introduce him to the "real" Mexico. He's an adventurous eater (albeit a self-proclaimed vegetarian) so food is not an issue. I know he would love those Cuernavaca resorts with all the surrounding gardens, but so far the ones I've found don't allow children.
Perhaps our whole scenario sounds like an impossibility, but I figured I'd put it out there to see if anyone has any ideas as to hotels, easy sidetrips, personal guides, etc. We typically travel on a modest budget, but we're willing to splurge. p.s. My husband is in the restaurant business and great food, be it in the local market or fancy restaurant, is his personal goal.
Thanks for listening!
Mar 23rd, 2005, 11:58 AM
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Sorry, I should add that after 7 days in Oaxaca, we will have 4 days in Mexico City area. Our final night we'll need a hotel at the airport as we have an early morning flight home (ugh). I figured Cuernavaca would be better for us than Mexico City itself, but after reading so many positive things about it, I'm starting to wonder... With a kid like ours, would you choose Cuernavaca or Mexico City (keeping in mind he's not into typically kid things). thx!
Mar 23rd, 2005, 12:03 PM
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The best splurge of all in Cuernavaca, especially for foodies, is Las Mananitas, which does allow children. The gardens feature exotic birds wandering around, beautiful flowers, sweeping lawns, etc. Even if you can't get a room--there are only about 21--do have a lavish, leisurely lunch in the restaurant: sip drinks in the garden while you peruse the large wooden boards listing menu choices, be summoned to one of the beautifully appointed tables on one of the open porches for your meal, and afterwards enjoy coffee and complimentary liquers, perhaps on one of the seating arrangements in another area of the porches. Las Mananitas is pure heaven.
While in Oaxaca, take in one of the fiesta dinners at the Camino Real, a beautiful hotel in a 16th century former convent. Family-style seating, buffet dinner, and the show features folk dancers from various cultures and provinces. Native Spanish speakers laugh heartily at some of the narrations, but even with no Spanish you can enjoy the lavish folk dances.
My suggestion on crafts villages for someone with a bathroom phobia would be Teotitlan de Valle, the rug-weavers village--there's lots more money in rugs than, for example, pottery, and the higher prices are reflected in the bathrooms in the various studios, which are modern and clean, I swear!
Be sure to tour the cactus garden adjacent to the regional museum. Your son also might like the stamp museum, on one of the streets near the museum. All the museums I visited in Oaxaca had really nice, clean bathrooms.
My daughter at 2 1/2 had sort of a bathroom phobia: she once went ALL DAY at a music festival without using any of the restrooms, not even the nice permanent ones in the campground area (as opposed to the much nearer porta potties). That evening we checked into the state park lodge we were staying in, where I carefully explained to her that we would be staying for the WHOLE WEEKEND. She trotted in and pee'd for about 15 minutes!
While in Oaxaca, take in one of the fiesta dinners at the Camino Real, a beautiful hotel in a 16th century former convent. Family-style seating, buffet dinner, and the show features folk dancers from various cultures and provinces. Native Spanish speakers laugh heartily at some of the narrations, but even with no Spanish you can enjoy the lavish folk dances.
My suggestion on crafts villages for someone with a bathroom phobia would be Teotitlan de Valle, the rug-weavers village--there's lots more money in rugs than, for example, pottery, and the higher prices are reflected in the bathrooms in the various studios, which are modern and clean, I swear!
Be sure to tour the cactus garden adjacent to the regional museum. Your son also might like the stamp museum, on one of the streets near the museum. All the museums I visited in Oaxaca had really nice, clean bathrooms.
My daughter at 2 1/2 had sort of a bathroom phobia: she once went ALL DAY at a music festival without using any of the restrooms, not even the nice permanent ones in the campground area (as opposed to the much nearer porta potties). That evening we checked into the state park lodge we were staying in, where I carefully explained to her that we would be staying for the WHOLE WEEKEND. She trotted in and pee'd for about 15 minutes!
Mar 23rd, 2005, 12:12 PM
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Well, it depends on what you want. I love Mexico City, but it takes a little effort to get out and see things. Your son should love all the museums in Chapultepac Park, including the Anthropology Museum and Chapultepac Castle, where Carlotta and Maximillian lived (my personal favorite). If you do decide on Mexico City, do try Priceline for a hotel--after reading betterbidding.com--as you can usually get either the JW Marriott or the Maria Isabella Sheraton for about $70-$80 a night. I think the hotels actually AT the airport are pretty crummy, or the one I stayed at was, and you can usually get to the airport from an in-town hotel in about 30 minutes.
Mar 23rd, 2005, 01:44 PM
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Thank you SO much. I can't tell you how relieved I feel hearing that (the clean bathrooms at the rug weavers spot). Yea! And all the other spots sound terrific. My son is on the atypical side (no interest in GameBoy, TV, etc) and tends to enjoy museums (sometimes more than his parents). Thank you again!
Mar 23rd, 2005, 04:17 PM
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If you're going to Oaxaca, you should check out this great website a recent visitor just posted -- full of great pictures, videos, and restaurant recs.
I've just returned myself and so really enjoyed the website! http://www.rgb3d.com/Oaxaca/
I've just returned myself and so really enjoyed the website! http://www.rgb3d.com/Oaxaca/
Mar 23rd, 2005, 04:33 PM
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We were in Mexico last month and travelled to the airport twice. Once from Puebla and once from the Marriott in MC. We had an early morning flight 0930 from Puebla and left at 0540. We arrived at the outskirts of MC at 0640 and it took another hour to go 13 k's to the airport.
From the Marriott it took an hour at 0730. Both times we hit morning rush hour. For peace of mind find a nice hotel at the airport and leave MC after 8 PM to go there. It will probably take 30 minutes that time of day.
From the Marriott it took an hour at 0730. Both times we hit morning rush hour. For peace of mind find a nice hotel at the airport and leave MC after 8 PM to go there. It will probably take 30 minutes that time of day.
Mar 23rd, 2005, 06:22 PM
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Yes, I'm sure during the morning rush hour it would easily take an hour to get to the airport, but at midday, 30 minutes it was last February. I guess it just depends on when your outbound flight leaves. What took far longer when leaving Mexico City was checking the bags--that took 1 1/2 hours, because they hand-searched everything, and staying at the airport will not eliminate that time.
Mar 23rd, 2005, 06:29 PM
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Our flight out is at 8:30 am (this is brutally early for my son and i) but it's on a Sunday, so I'm hoping that will help.
I just told my husband that we might as well sleep at the airport, such is the sluggo ways of his wife and son in the AM.
I just told my husband that we might as well sleep at the airport, such is the sluggo ways of his wife and son in the AM.
Mar 24th, 2005, 05:57 AM
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I highly recommend the JW Marriott in the Polanco district. Beautiful, safe, friendly.....the bellhops are quite helpful when it comes to true local culture. I echo Marilyn on Chapultepec park and castle, and on the Anthropology Museum. Take the red double-decker bus for $10 USD----ride all day, getting on and off until the evening. Go to the zocalo, and see the National Palace (foreigners must have picture ID to enter). Possibly a day trip out to Teotihuacan? Eat there at <<La Gruta>>----behind the pyramid of the moon. Chapultepec castle bathrooms are okay, but tell your son to go before strolling through Chapultepec park: my husband was horrified, but I just shrugged it off, and liberally applied anti-bacterial hand sanitizer. I LOVE the park----great finds there from the various vendors----for that matter, at the pyramids, as well! It makes me happy to hear about parents taking their kids early-on: he will never forget this excursion! I, too, began my Latin American journeys (with my father) when I was young, and still go regularly. I can't wait 'til my little guy is old enough to go with us! What a memorable event! !Buen viaje!
Mar 25th, 2005, 01:51 PM
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While in Cuernavaca, take the bus to Tepoztlan for the day. It is a picturesque village that has been studied for decades by anthropologists. One guy wrote a book in the early 40' comparing it to Muncie, Indiana--talk about appples and cryptonite! There is a 16th century fortress monastery there with a great pre-Columbian museum in the back. There are also some ruins in Cuenravaca.
In Mexico city, go to Frida Kahlo's house, the Casa Azul, in Coyoacan. Quite an experience. By the curch there are a couple of 16th century houses. Also nearby, the monastery of Churubusco, now the Museum of Intervention (by Yanks, of course, a one-sided view, but interesting). Churubusco is the Movie capital (Hollywood) of Mexico. Also recommend the Museum of the City of Mexico, the Hospital de Jesus with murals by Orozco, the ruins of the Templo Mayor and Museum, and, of course, Teotihuacan, the greatest metropolis of the ancient Americas (and the largest city prior to modern times) just 30 miles from the city...perhaps the greatest archeological treasure of this hemisphere. It was ancient ruins to the Aztecs!
Norm
In Mexico city, go to Frida Kahlo's house, the Casa Azul, in Coyoacan. Quite an experience. By the curch there are a couple of 16th century houses. Also nearby, the monastery of Churubusco, now the Museum of Intervention (by Yanks, of course, a one-sided view, but interesting). Churubusco is the Movie capital (Hollywood) of Mexico. Also recommend the Museum of the City of Mexico, the Hospital de Jesus with murals by Orozco, the ruins of the Templo Mayor and Museum, and, of course, Teotihuacan, the greatest metropolis of the ancient Americas (and the largest city prior to modern times) just 30 miles from the city...perhaps the greatest archeological treasure of this hemisphere. It was ancient ruins to the Aztecs!
Norm
Mar 25th, 2005, 07:38 PM
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Oaxaca is a great place to take a kid. Make sure that your foodie husband finds the Super Gigantes Tortas for the best sandwhich in all of Mexico. It is located in the center of the Abastos market, which is fun to visit any day of the week, but especially the busy Saturdays. Your son would also enjoy the wood carving (alebrijes) villages of Arrazola or San Maritn de Tilcajete. I really can't commment on the "banos" as they all semm pretty basic. Finally, take everyone for a nieve in the early evening at la iglesia de la Soledad.
Mar 26th, 2005, 04:45 AM
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Agree with the comment about the nieves - they are great! The boy serving us seemed to be about 9 years old, so maybe there was someone else there as well, but we had the leche quemada (burnt milk). It was delicious! At La Biznaga, we had a nieve with mescal - also really good, but probably not suitable for an 8 year old.
Mar 29th, 2005, 03:05 PM
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I'm so glad to see you posting again because I've been thinking of you & your son! My son is fine with restrooms but has this unbelievable fear of dogs even though no dog has ever done a single thing to him, we live near no dogs, and no one has ever said a negative thing about dogs in his presence. It'd almost be funny if he didn't take off running every time he saw one (which, of course, just causes the dog to run after him...which then makes him more afraid of dogs...and so the cycle goes). my hope is that he'll grow out of it (he's only 6) but I"m already laughing in advance over the adventures we're going to have with the dogs in Mexico this summer!
