Glover's back from Golfo Dulce and Selva Verde - Part I
May 1st, 2007, 08:38 PM
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Glover's back from Golfo Dulce and Selva Verde - Part I
Well we two have just returned from another great trip (our third) to Costa Rica. 10 days wasn’t enough of course. We chose to go to some new locations this time. I’d been set to aim for Bosque del Cabo next – till I was taken by this house “Casa Linda” I found on the internet. But more about it later. We flew in and out of SJO – stayed a night there on the front and back ends and stayed 5 nights at Casa Linda near Cabo Matapalo and 3 nights at Selva Verde Lodge in Sarapiqui.
Here’s the blow by blow: We were in and out of SJO fairly quickly (only carry on bags). We each had our trusty ebag weekender convertible and a healthy back bag and fanny pack between us. We’re getting good at traveling light! Then we were into a taxi and on to Casa Roland in Rohrmoser (sp?). I chose this B&B for its nearness to Tobias Bolano airport (5 minutes) because we were flying out on Nature Air next am to Puerto Jimenez. Our arrival at Casa Roland was a little disorienting. It takes a while for my mediocre Spanish to crank up – and when I’m tired it takes that much longer. I understood the young woman at reception to say they didn’t have lights or water (this problem had started the day before or so – a country wide problem). So we went to dinner at the very forgettable restaurant next door. Go there only if you’re lazy like we were. The place is pretty in that modern spare way, and we had a super nice waitress, but the food wasn’t very good. When we returned to hotel, receptionist said lights and water were available. We didn’t really get a good look at the place till next day. Room was very nicely furnished (except for one ugly cheap rolling desk chair) spacious with nice bath and step out balcony for checking out birds and beautiful trees (mangoes and another pink one I’d like to know name of). Nice art throughout this b&b. Reception area, small bar, breakfast room, and outdoor seating area also very lovely. A great breakfast was included in the $85/night price. Cooked to order – and with choices! We chatted with fellow we believe was owner. The manager drove us to the airport herself. They both seemed very surprised/curious that we’d found them – though the place certainly had some other guests. So we recommend Casa Roland as a nice and convenient place to stay - especially if you’re flying out on Nature Air.
Nature Air was great going and returning. Super efficient and professional. No waits, no hassles. On time. Beautiful flights both ways. 20? Seater planes ¾ full. I humored my husband who likes to sit directly behind pilots so he can watch them in action, see gauges etc. etc. I can’t even stand it if a red light goes on or the pilots frown. I’d rather not see any of it, so I try to keep my eyes trained out the window. Just gorgeous both ways.
We were met at PJ airport by Osa Tropical and driven the 45 minute or so bumpy road to Casa Linda. Our MO is that I sit in front and torture the driver with my Spanish. My husband, who’s only starting to learn, sits in back. We saw some monkeys and good birds along the way.
Casa Linda and three other bamboo houses built by some nice folks from Texas are nicely spaced on a big chunk of property shortly after you turn off the road that goes from PV to Lapa Rios and Bosque del Cabo onto the road that goes to Cabo Matapalo. We were met by the 3-person caretaking staff: Willem, Flor and Christy. Casa Linda was every bit as wonderful as it appears on the internet. We figure it’s about 30 feet from the beach. (The closest of the 4 houses). In fact, we could see the water from our bed!! Scarlet macaws and monkeys were in our yard every day. Casa Linda is sited perpendicular to Casa Bambu on either side of an open grassy yard. The other two house “Pina” and “La Sonrisa” are set back much further. Each is nestled in fabulous foliage – mango trees, crotons, heliconias, etc. etc. We saw all four kinds of monkeys in the 5 days we were there. We woke up with the sun every am at 5 and crashed by 8:30. Mostly we did a lot of walking and a lot of porch sitting. And a lot of birdwatching. Willem, the very sweet property manager, took us to Corcovado Park one day (for a fee of course). Wow, that was a slog. About an hour and half? Rugged drive to Carate, then a 45 min. walk along the beach. Then a walk in the path in park. We’d been to the park on the Drake Bay side years ago. We left at 5am and returned at 2. Didn’t see much in the park that day – just luck of draw. Though we both said that the park path there is close to water – so it’s hard to hear animal noises above sound of pounding surf. One sad, but interesting, sight was a destroyed turtle nest on the beach – including teeny turtle fetuses, broken eggs. Willem said probably coatis got em. .. . Otherwise, saw some monkeys and a couple hawks. He told us his best day was when he saw a jaguar, a puma, peccaries, and more – all in one day. We had a nice swim in a river along our journey though. The beach was empty and beautiful. And it was interesting to see the ranches, small lodges and other surroundings on road to Carate. We picked up the cutest little boy along the way and gave him a ride to his 10-student school. I love how they rideshare. .. .
We tried but failed TWICE to get to Bosque del Cabo for a look see. Once we just started walking up the main road. After about an hour we got to the turn off, but we had no idea how much further it would be and were running out of daylight so doubled back. Saw lots of great wildlife on the road walk though – a trogon, monkeys, hawks, etc.
Another time we walked to the end of the Cabo Matapalo Road and found Bosque’s “Golfo Dulce trail.” OK, Shillmac I see why you didn’t come down that day and see Casa Linda. We hiked up that path (never saw a soul), walked along the ridge quite a ways, then started following it down and we STILL weren’t there and had no idea how much further it was . . . So again we doubled back.
We did make it to the much closer Lapa Rios though. Did a hot uphill 15 minute slog up there and were rewarded with spectacular view and lunch. The best mojito ever!
We also did a walk to a nearby waterfall for a swim with our friend Willem. Never got around to horseback riding (see “porch” above). There was enough interesting walking in different directions to keep us endlessly amused. We’re walkers, but nightly foot massages became de rigeur.
We ate one dinner at Buen Esperanza (“Martina’s”) restaurant and walked 10 min back home on the road with flashlights in the dark. (The main road near Martina’s is GREAT for bird watching at dusk – we saw a king vulture among other interesting species.) This restaurant is a hoot. Martina’s a well tattooed German woman who came to CR 15 years ago. The little outdoor restaurant is very casual. Only a handful of people when we were there. She puts 3 items on the menu each night. We had some very tasty food – great fresh salads along with entrees – several beers and total was $26 for both of us. Such a deal. The place was like something out of the 60s. We walked around the pretty Encanta La Vida resort. Meant to get there for dinner, but didn’t (see “porch” above). Mostly we grazed on the casual food we’d brought along from La Esquina grocery store in PV (what a fun experience!). Grilled some chicken one night. Hot dogs another.
We walked on the beach and swam a couple times. The beach directly in front of Casa is rocky. Best to walk left or farther toward right to “Backwash Beach.” Some folks surfing down there. Sad to say the second day we were in the water we were bitten by what we naturally assumed must be jellyfish. But Willem et al said no - these would be either “pulgas” insects or ilos de oro(?), which they said look like undulating mosquito netting. A big ouch that lasts about 15 min. or so. They were around the following day as well so we heard.
Staffers Christy and her Mom Flor made us a surprise fabulous centerpiece which we came home to one day. About 4 feet long in a wooden trough it included beautiful fruits and plants from around the houses. Then they educated me about all the items and their Spanish names. We took lots of pictures of that. And they cracked us a coconut. Unfortunately our mango tree only had two unripe mangoes (monkey culprits?) – but still we had bought some great ones at La Esquina.
We looked at all four houses. Similar amenities, but different arrangements. Ours had 4 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms! We only used a wing of it – we have wimpy friends and family..whom we couldn’t convince to come along. Electricity is solar. Water is sweet well water. Construction is all bamboo. Shutters on all sides. No screens. Comfortable beds are nicely encased in mosquito netting with a reading light at the head and a small fan at the foot. But really, I don’t think we came home with any bites (though they were at the end of a long dry season). The only major critter we found in the house was a 2 inch round cockroach my husband caged for my later viewing in the kitchen one am. Communication is by radio and that was fun: “Hola, hola, Lapa Rios, Casa Linda calling” . . . . Refrigerator and stove (big) are powered by propane. Nice to wash dishes looking out open window to rainforest vegetation. Shower was just dandy. There was an outside one as well.
Owner provided great info before hand – so we felt very well prepared re what to expect/take. Staff couldn’t have been more helpful. Fruits/nuts falling on the tin roof at night at first scared the crap out of me. It rained most of one night – just as we had wanted it to. Otherwise it was hot and sunny every day.
We loved it and hated to leave. Hard to imagine a more perfect setting – oh, that porch with the sea view. . . . Guess I’ll have to write a separate treatise re Selva Verde!
Here’s the blow by blow: We were in and out of SJO fairly quickly (only carry on bags). We each had our trusty ebag weekender convertible and a healthy back bag and fanny pack between us. We’re getting good at traveling light! Then we were into a taxi and on to Casa Roland in Rohrmoser (sp?). I chose this B&B for its nearness to Tobias Bolano airport (5 minutes) because we were flying out on Nature Air next am to Puerto Jimenez. Our arrival at Casa Roland was a little disorienting. It takes a while for my mediocre Spanish to crank up – and when I’m tired it takes that much longer. I understood the young woman at reception to say they didn’t have lights or water (this problem had started the day before or so – a country wide problem). So we went to dinner at the very forgettable restaurant next door. Go there only if you’re lazy like we were. The place is pretty in that modern spare way, and we had a super nice waitress, but the food wasn’t very good. When we returned to hotel, receptionist said lights and water were available. We didn’t really get a good look at the place till next day. Room was very nicely furnished (except for one ugly cheap rolling desk chair) spacious with nice bath and step out balcony for checking out birds and beautiful trees (mangoes and another pink one I’d like to know name of). Nice art throughout this b&b. Reception area, small bar, breakfast room, and outdoor seating area also very lovely. A great breakfast was included in the $85/night price. Cooked to order – and with choices! We chatted with fellow we believe was owner. The manager drove us to the airport herself. They both seemed very surprised/curious that we’d found them – though the place certainly had some other guests. So we recommend Casa Roland as a nice and convenient place to stay - especially if you’re flying out on Nature Air.
Nature Air was great going and returning. Super efficient and professional. No waits, no hassles. On time. Beautiful flights both ways. 20? Seater planes ¾ full. I humored my husband who likes to sit directly behind pilots so he can watch them in action, see gauges etc. etc. I can’t even stand it if a red light goes on or the pilots frown. I’d rather not see any of it, so I try to keep my eyes trained out the window. Just gorgeous both ways.
We were met at PJ airport by Osa Tropical and driven the 45 minute or so bumpy road to Casa Linda. Our MO is that I sit in front and torture the driver with my Spanish. My husband, who’s only starting to learn, sits in back. We saw some monkeys and good birds along the way.
Casa Linda and three other bamboo houses built by some nice folks from Texas are nicely spaced on a big chunk of property shortly after you turn off the road that goes from PV to Lapa Rios and Bosque del Cabo onto the road that goes to Cabo Matapalo. We were met by the 3-person caretaking staff: Willem, Flor and Christy. Casa Linda was every bit as wonderful as it appears on the internet. We figure it’s about 30 feet from the beach. (The closest of the 4 houses). In fact, we could see the water from our bed!! Scarlet macaws and monkeys were in our yard every day. Casa Linda is sited perpendicular to Casa Bambu on either side of an open grassy yard. The other two house “Pina” and “La Sonrisa” are set back much further. Each is nestled in fabulous foliage – mango trees, crotons, heliconias, etc. etc. We saw all four kinds of monkeys in the 5 days we were there. We woke up with the sun every am at 5 and crashed by 8:30. Mostly we did a lot of walking and a lot of porch sitting. And a lot of birdwatching. Willem, the very sweet property manager, took us to Corcovado Park one day (for a fee of course). Wow, that was a slog. About an hour and half? Rugged drive to Carate, then a 45 min. walk along the beach. Then a walk in the path in park. We’d been to the park on the Drake Bay side years ago. We left at 5am and returned at 2. Didn’t see much in the park that day – just luck of draw. Though we both said that the park path there is close to water – so it’s hard to hear animal noises above sound of pounding surf. One sad, but interesting, sight was a destroyed turtle nest on the beach – including teeny turtle fetuses, broken eggs. Willem said probably coatis got em. .. . Otherwise, saw some monkeys and a couple hawks. He told us his best day was when he saw a jaguar, a puma, peccaries, and more – all in one day. We had a nice swim in a river along our journey though. The beach was empty and beautiful. And it was interesting to see the ranches, small lodges and other surroundings on road to Carate. We picked up the cutest little boy along the way and gave him a ride to his 10-student school. I love how they rideshare. .. .
We tried but failed TWICE to get to Bosque del Cabo for a look see. Once we just started walking up the main road. After about an hour we got to the turn off, but we had no idea how much further it would be and were running out of daylight so doubled back. Saw lots of great wildlife on the road walk though – a trogon, monkeys, hawks, etc.
Another time we walked to the end of the Cabo Matapalo Road and found Bosque’s “Golfo Dulce trail.” OK, Shillmac I see why you didn’t come down that day and see Casa Linda. We hiked up that path (never saw a soul), walked along the ridge quite a ways, then started following it down and we STILL weren’t there and had no idea how much further it was . . . So again we doubled back.
We did make it to the much closer Lapa Rios though. Did a hot uphill 15 minute slog up there and were rewarded with spectacular view and lunch. The best mojito ever!
We also did a walk to a nearby waterfall for a swim with our friend Willem. Never got around to horseback riding (see “porch” above). There was enough interesting walking in different directions to keep us endlessly amused. We’re walkers, but nightly foot massages became de rigeur.
We ate one dinner at Buen Esperanza (“Martina’s”) restaurant and walked 10 min back home on the road with flashlights in the dark. (The main road near Martina’s is GREAT for bird watching at dusk – we saw a king vulture among other interesting species.) This restaurant is a hoot. Martina’s a well tattooed German woman who came to CR 15 years ago. The little outdoor restaurant is very casual. Only a handful of people when we were there. She puts 3 items on the menu each night. We had some very tasty food – great fresh salads along with entrees – several beers and total was $26 for both of us. Such a deal. The place was like something out of the 60s. We walked around the pretty Encanta La Vida resort. Meant to get there for dinner, but didn’t (see “porch” above). Mostly we grazed on the casual food we’d brought along from La Esquina grocery store in PV (what a fun experience!). Grilled some chicken one night. Hot dogs another.
We walked on the beach and swam a couple times. The beach directly in front of Casa is rocky. Best to walk left or farther toward right to “Backwash Beach.” Some folks surfing down there. Sad to say the second day we were in the water we were bitten by what we naturally assumed must be jellyfish. But Willem et al said no - these would be either “pulgas” insects or ilos de oro(?), which they said look like undulating mosquito netting. A big ouch that lasts about 15 min. or so. They were around the following day as well so we heard.
Staffers Christy and her Mom Flor made us a surprise fabulous centerpiece which we came home to one day. About 4 feet long in a wooden trough it included beautiful fruits and plants from around the houses. Then they educated me about all the items and their Spanish names. We took lots of pictures of that. And they cracked us a coconut. Unfortunately our mango tree only had two unripe mangoes (monkey culprits?) – but still we had bought some great ones at La Esquina.
We looked at all four houses. Similar amenities, but different arrangements. Ours had 4 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms! We only used a wing of it – we have wimpy friends and family..whom we couldn’t convince to come along. Electricity is solar. Water is sweet well water. Construction is all bamboo. Shutters on all sides. No screens. Comfortable beds are nicely encased in mosquito netting with a reading light at the head and a small fan at the foot. But really, I don’t think we came home with any bites (though they were at the end of a long dry season). The only major critter we found in the house was a 2 inch round cockroach my husband caged for my later viewing in the kitchen one am. Communication is by radio and that was fun: “Hola, hola, Lapa Rios, Casa Linda calling” . . . . Refrigerator and stove (big) are powered by propane. Nice to wash dishes looking out open window to rainforest vegetation. Shower was just dandy. There was an outside one as well.
Owner provided great info before hand – so we felt very well prepared re what to expect/take. Staff couldn’t have been more helpful. Fruits/nuts falling on the tin roof at night at first scared the crap out of me. It rained most of one night – just as we had wanted it to. Otherwise it was hot and sunny every day.
We loved it and hated to leave. Hard to imagine a more perfect setting – oh, that porch with the sea view. . . . Guess I’ll have to write a separate treatise re Selva Verde!
May 1st, 2007, 08:48 PM
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Glover - Welcome back and thank you for such a GREAT and descriptive trip report. It sounds wonderful. We'll be at BDC later this month...don't know if we'll make it down that trail to Casa Linda...but it sounds well worth the stay 
May 2nd, 2007, 04:08 AM
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Glover, love your style! You've started my day with a smile.
Totally understand the wimpy family friends problem--alas. . .
And, just for the record, I WANTED to hike down that trail (it's not so bad going down, LOL!), but hated not to spend that time with my daughter, who had elected not to go. . .
Oh my gosh--it sounds SO wonderful. Totally different experience from a BdC stay, but unique and lots of fun. Can you put me in touch with the Texas folks?
Again, welcome home. . .can't wait to hear more. I'm enchanted!
Totally understand the wimpy family friends problem--alas. . .
And, just for the record, I WANTED to hike down that trail (it's not so bad going down, LOL!), but hated not to spend that time with my daughter, who had elected not to go. . .
Oh my gosh--it sounds SO wonderful. Totally different experience from a BdC stay, but unique and lots of fun. Can you put me in touch with the Texas folks?
Again, welcome home. . .can't wait to hear more. I'm enchanted!
May 2nd, 2007, 07:00 AM
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Hi Glover!
Super trip report! Your vacations sounds like a perfect one. Thank you for posting about Casa Linda. We have been condidering it for our next trip down. I have a lot of questions about it; I hope that you don't mind.
Was it very hot staying Casa Linda? Were there fans? Were you happy with your choice of casa? Was there a casa that you would not recommend? Were the other casas occupied when you were there?
How long of a walk was it to the less rocky beaches? Were there no-see-ums? Did you find out if the the pulgas were a common occurance? Were you able to go back into the water, on another day, after being stung?
We travel with our daughter; so I was wondering if there were any children about.
Thank You!!
Gem
P.S. I appreciate the review on Casa Roland, too. I would like to fly Nature Air sometime. So I will file that one.
Super trip report! Your vacations sounds like a perfect one. Thank you for posting about Casa Linda. We have been condidering it for our next trip down. I have a lot of questions about it; I hope that you don't mind.
Was it very hot staying Casa Linda? Were there fans? Were you happy with your choice of casa? Was there a casa that you would not recommend? Were the other casas occupied when you were there?
How long of a walk was it to the less rocky beaches? Were there no-see-ums? Did you find out if the the pulgas were a common occurance? Were you able to go back into the water, on another day, after being stung?
We travel with our daughter; so I was wondering if there were any children about.
Thank You!!
Gem
P.S. I appreciate the review on Casa Roland, too. I would like to fly Nature Air sometime. So I will file that one.
May 2nd, 2007, 07:45 AM
#5
Thanks glover
Great report.
I have to get down to the Osa area on my next trip to Costa Rica.
Enjoyed allyour comments and evaluations.
More to come I hope.
Thanks
Percy
Great report.
I have to get down to the Osa area on my next trip to Costa Rica.
Enjoyed allyour comments and evaluations.
More to come I hope.
Thanks
Percy
May 2nd, 2007, 07:55 AM
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Jerry,
What a wonderful report. I have seen those houses many times but it is hard to determine which is which unless you have actually stayed there. A casual walk by isn't going to do it or at least not for me because I don't like to intrude if someone is staying there unless they invite. There are quite a few 2 story homes along the beach.
I have tried to talk my husband into one of them on numerous times but he is not a beach person. I even contacted the owners to get more info a few years ago. They were only just building Casa Linda at that time. Maybe reading about how great just walking around was will change his mind. We have done some walking down there from our stays at Lapa Rios and Bosque but it isn't the same as staying down there I am sure. Thank you for the first hand info on what wildlife was seen. Good to know the monkeys etc are down there as well. Cabo Matapalo is such a great area.
I did feel your pain when you described the walk to the park entrance. Having walked that beach many times, I know how hot it is. We did find a little trail just off the beach that was a tad cooler but not by much. We didn't see much when we went in either but we didn't go with a guide. We were staying at the tent camp at that time.
How were the temps? His biggest worry is the heat during the day. Nights do cool down enough I know but from past experience in other ocean places around there the days can be pretty warm.
Considering the time of day, it was a good thing that you turned around on the BdC driveway. It is a pretty long one. The road to it is always a great place to bird and wildlife view. Kevin from Bosque has stopped several times to point out a secret nest that he has been watching on his many trips back and forth to town. The Gulfo Dulce trail is one of my favorites, it does take about 1 1/2 hrs down and most likely longer back up but we always see so much. Only once we couldn't finish it and that was because a 10 ft wide, at least, column of army ants was crossing it. Talk about great birds! There are some sections that are a little dicey. Sorry you didn't get all the way to the Lodge. Sounds like you had a great time there though. Isn't Martinas a hoot? I have been there for a couple of their parties and it gets pretty crazy.
Jelly fish are common in that area but I haven't heard of those other things, yuck.
For those interested in Casa Bambu etc it is very easy to find on the internet. Just type in Casa Bambu and it will take you to them.
http://www.casabambu-beach-house-rentals.com/
Know what you mean about the whimpy family and friends. I have convinced more total strangers than family members on how great Costa Rica is. I am finally getting my niece and her daughter down this summer and can't wait to meet up with them. My sister still thinks it is going to be too third worldly. Perhaps when our house is built she will feel more comfortable.
Can't wait for the rest of your trip report.
What a wonderful report. I have seen those houses many times but it is hard to determine which is which unless you have actually stayed there. A casual walk by isn't going to do it or at least not for me because I don't like to intrude if someone is staying there unless they invite. There are quite a few 2 story homes along the beach.
I have tried to talk my husband into one of them on numerous times but he is not a beach person. I even contacted the owners to get more info a few years ago. They were only just building Casa Linda at that time. Maybe reading about how great just walking around was will change his mind. We have done some walking down there from our stays at Lapa Rios and Bosque but it isn't the same as staying down there I am sure. Thank you for the first hand info on what wildlife was seen. Good to know the monkeys etc are down there as well. Cabo Matapalo is such a great area.
I did feel your pain when you described the walk to the park entrance. Having walked that beach many times, I know how hot it is. We did find a little trail just off the beach that was a tad cooler but not by much. We didn't see much when we went in either but we didn't go with a guide. We were staying at the tent camp at that time.
How were the temps? His biggest worry is the heat during the day. Nights do cool down enough I know but from past experience in other ocean places around there the days can be pretty warm.
Considering the time of day, it was a good thing that you turned around on the BdC driveway. It is a pretty long one. The road to it is always a great place to bird and wildlife view. Kevin from Bosque has stopped several times to point out a secret nest that he has been watching on his many trips back and forth to town. The Gulfo Dulce trail is one of my favorites, it does take about 1 1/2 hrs down and most likely longer back up but we always see so much. Only once we couldn't finish it and that was because a 10 ft wide, at least, column of army ants was crossing it. Talk about great birds! There are some sections that are a little dicey. Sorry you didn't get all the way to the Lodge. Sounds like you had a great time there though. Isn't Martinas a hoot? I have been there for a couple of their parties and it gets pretty crazy.
Jelly fish are common in that area but I haven't heard of those other things, yuck.
For those interested in Casa Bambu etc it is very easy to find on the internet. Just type in Casa Bambu and it will take you to them.
http://www.casabambu-beach-house-rentals.com/
Know what you mean about the whimpy family and friends. I have convinced more total strangers than family members on how great Costa Rica is. I am finally getting my niece and her daughter down this summer and can't wait to meet up with them. My sister still thinks it is going to be too third worldly. Perhaps when our house is built she will feel more comfortable.
Can't wait for the rest of your trip report.
May 2nd, 2007, 02:12 PM
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Gem - here's some answers to your questions:
Was it very hot staying Casa Linda?
We were almost never inside the house during the day. At most we were on the porch which was always comfortable. But I think with the combo of foliage around and sea breezes, it was generally comfortable in and close by the house.
Were there fans? There are tiny fans at the foot of each bed - which work quite well! As I recall there were also a few other tiny ones spaced around in other rooms (and a big one on the porch) but we didn't use the others and only noticed the one on the porch half way into our stay (apparently we were in comotose state)
Were you happy with your choice of casa? I only chose Linda over Bambu because someone on line said he'd stayed in Bambu and would stay in LInda next time - just cause it was newer.)
BUT, unless I missed something - all bedrooms at Bambu were upstairs - and only bath was downstairs. And stairway was open. This would have been a problem for us old fogeys who always get up in middle of night. Linda on the other hand is all one floor with two baths - and the master bedroom has one attached.
Was there a casa that you would not recommend? Perhaps Bambu only for the reason mentioned above. While we saw the other two from outside nearby we didn't go in - but both should have very detailed pics and descriptions on the web site. I don't know what their room configurations are. Linda has 4 bdrs - one master with bath and ocean view. Two other bedrooms are smaller with double beds and nice windows. The fourth bedroom is tiny with a single bed and no windows.
Were the other casas occupied when you were there? Surprisingly NONE of the other casas were occupied when we were there. They said they had some folks coming May 5 or so, I think. And, from the guest books (I always read every word of course) it appeared that the rental history is pretty solid. They did mention in their info packet that sound from Bambu e.g could carry to Linda - so be respectful. The same would be true for the other two, which though distant from Linda and Bambu, are closer to one another. The caretaker's home is across a big yard from Linda and Bambu. All seemed well thought out - close enough so you don't feel too isolated, but located well for privacy feel.
How long of a walk was it to the less rocky beaches? As I said, from Linda we were about 30 feet to the beach. Where we swam was only a couple minutes walk left. To Backwash Beach - maybe a 10 minute walk? either along beach at low tide or along road to Matapalo. At low tide you could walk quite a distance out - kids might like that peering in little tide pools etc.
Were there no-see-ums? We didn't experience any no see ums.
Did you find out if the the pulgas were a common occurance? We understood that, just like jellyfish, they're there sometimes and other times not. It rained - maybe that made a difference - no idea what effect tides, weather, dry/wet season may have on their appearance
Were you able to go back into the water, on another day, after being stung? We talked to someone the next day who'd been stung, so knowing that didn't bother to try. But there were always some folks out in the water surfing every day - so perhaps the stingers congregated close in? Not predictable really. Plus that was our last day and the day that we walked to end of Matapalo Road and then up the Golfo Dulce trail and back in our fruitless search from Bosque del Cabo.
We travel with our daughter; so I was wondering if there were any children about. Didn't see any children in immediate vicinity - but clearly many families have rented and so you could luck into rental neighbors with kids. There are boogey boards there and a kayak. Also Willem will take folks out fishing early in am in his big rubber raft. Sorry we didn't do that. And horseback riding is possible to arrange. The big yard would be good for kids (though sunny and hot).
Fire away with any other questions you have, I don't mind. As you know it's just another chance to relive it all!
Was it very hot staying Casa Linda?
We were almost never inside the house during the day. At most we were on the porch which was always comfortable. But I think with the combo of foliage around and sea breezes, it was generally comfortable in and close by the house.
Were there fans? There are tiny fans at the foot of each bed - which work quite well! As I recall there were also a few other tiny ones spaced around in other rooms (and a big one on the porch) but we didn't use the others and only noticed the one on the porch half way into our stay (apparently we were in comotose state)
Were you happy with your choice of casa? I only chose Linda over Bambu because someone on line said he'd stayed in Bambu and would stay in LInda next time - just cause it was newer.)
BUT, unless I missed something - all bedrooms at Bambu were upstairs - and only bath was downstairs. And stairway was open. This would have been a problem for us old fogeys who always get up in middle of night. Linda on the other hand is all one floor with two baths - and the master bedroom has one attached.
Was there a casa that you would not recommend? Perhaps Bambu only for the reason mentioned above. While we saw the other two from outside nearby we didn't go in - but both should have very detailed pics and descriptions on the web site. I don't know what their room configurations are. Linda has 4 bdrs - one master with bath and ocean view. Two other bedrooms are smaller with double beds and nice windows. The fourth bedroom is tiny with a single bed and no windows.
Were the other casas occupied when you were there? Surprisingly NONE of the other casas were occupied when we were there. They said they had some folks coming May 5 or so, I think. And, from the guest books (I always read every word of course) it appeared that the rental history is pretty solid. They did mention in their info packet that sound from Bambu e.g could carry to Linda - so be respectful. The same would be true for the other two, which though distant from Linda and Bambu, are closer to one another. The caretaker's home is across a big yard from Linda and Bambu. All seemed well thought out - close enough so you don't feel too isolated, but located well for privacy feel.
How long of a walk was it to the less rocky beaches? As I said, from Linda we were about 30 feet to the beach. Where we swam was only a couple minutes walk left. To Backwash Beach - maybe a 10 minute walk? either along beach at low tide or along road to Matapalo. At low tide you could walk quite a distance out - kids might like that peering in little tide pools etc.
Were there no-see-ums? We didn't experience any no see ums.
Did you find out if the the pulgas were a common occurance? We understood that, just like jellyfish, they're there sometimes and other times not. It rained - maybe that made a difference - no idea what effect tides, weather, dry/wet season may have on their appearance
Were you able to go back into the water, on another day, after being stung? We talked to someone the next day who'd been stung, so knowing that didn't bother to try. But there were always some folks out in the water surfing every day - so perhaps the stingers congregated close in? Not predictable really. Plus that was our last day and the day that we walked to end of Matapalo Road and then up the Golfo Dulce trail and back in our fruitless search from Bosque del Cabo.
We travel with our daughter; so I was wondering if there were any children about. Didn't see any children in immediate vicinity - but clearly many families have rented and so you could luck into rental neighbors with kids. There are boogey boards there and a kayak. Also Willem will take folks out fishing early in am in his big rubber raft. Sorry we didn't do that. And horseback riding is possible to arrange. The big yard would be good for kids (though sunny and hot).
Fire away with any other questions you have, I don't mind. As you know it's just another chance to relive it all!
May 2nd, 2007, 05:27 PM
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Shillmac, in answer to your question - Martina's Restaurant "Buen Esperanza" is one the left side of the main road to Bosque - shortly before you get to the turnoff that goes off left to Cabo Matapalo. An escuela on the right hand side of road there. And that was the piece of road we thought made for fantastic birdwatching at dusk. (Lapa Rios brought some folks down there we noticed.) Really easy to see stuff out in open pasture area there - some of those cool droopy eared cows too - and an even cooler looking old bull.
May 2nd, 2007, 05:29 PM
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Very nice report glover! Well-written and entertaining to read.
I'll be visiting BdC in December and love reading all impressions of the Osa Peninsula.
I'm also looking forward to your segment on Selva Verde. Glad you had a wonderful trip!
I'll be visiting BdC in December and love reading all impressions of the Osa Peninsula.
I'm also looking forward to your segment on Selva Verde. Glad you had a wonderful trip!
May 2nd, 2007, 07:21 PM
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Thanks, glover. I hope to be able to get to that area about dusk and check it out. Maybe I can talk Eduardo at BdC into picking me up from an afternoon Golfo Dulce hike and birding with me a bit down there. If he doesn't have a late afternoon group up at the lodge. . .
May 3rd, 2007, 11:26 AM
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Hi Glover!
Thank you so much for all the terrific information!! It sounds like a wonderful house. We are just waiting to confirm that our friends are coming with us and that will help determine where we stay.
Thank you so much for all the terrific information!! It sounds like a wonderful house. We are just waiting to confirm that our friends are coming with us and that will help determine where we stay.
May 11th, 2007, 07:12 PM
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Sorry Gem, we didn't see Casa Dos Rios. We never ended up walking the beach north?east? from Casa Linda - we only walked to Cabo Matapalo - but I see where it is on the map of Matapalo -
do you have one of those? Looks like it's practically on the beach - behind the famous "Martina's" restaurant.
do you have one of those? Looks like it's practically on the beach - behind the famous "Martina's" restaurant.
May 11th, 2007, 07:22 PM
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Gem, I went to the website and looked at Dos Rios - really it looks very similar to Casa Linda - same deal too - 4 bdrs, 2 baths, $155/day. All wood, no screens, nice porch, close to water, etc. Only diff I see is that Linda is only one story. You might want to be sure the baths are on same level as bdrs. That was the only thing I noted about Casa Bambu, as I mentioned before.
May 12th, 2007, 07:07 PM
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No Matapalo map on line I don't think, but I can send you a copy of the one I have if you're interested - email me at [email protected].
I can't imagine there'd be much difference between the locations of Casa Linda and Dos Rios. They're both very close the beach - on neighboring beaches.
I can't imagine there'd be much difference between the locations of Casa Linda and Dos Rios. They're both very close the beach - on neighboring beaches.
Aug 27th, 2007, 07:19 PM
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Ok, so I'm bringing this back up to the top because I keep rereading it and it sounds perfect for "chill time". See "porch"! Tee-hee! I love that. 
So, it sounds like a couple of places we could go to eat lunch. I'm not sure how keen I would be walking the road night...What about Encanta La Vida. I am also curious about this place. Can you describe a little more about location and how it looks? I think they have a new pool?
So, it sounds like a couple of places we could go to eat lunch. I'm not sure how keen I would be walking the road night...What about Encanta La Vida. I am also curious about this place. Can you describe a little more about location and how it looks? I think they have a new pool?
Aug 27th, 2007, 08:01 PM
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So, Hip, you're thinking of some Casa Bambu/Linda time? Think you'd love it! About Encanta La Vida: I see there are several recent very positive reviews on tripadvisor. .. We thought it looked nice, and the mgr/owner or some staffer couldn't have been nicer to us as we just passed through. Pointed us to their "lookout" for watching birds. Showed us a menu. Told us to feel free to look around. Now it's neither as big nor as lush as BDC looks to be, but the new small pool and grounds and common buildings looked nice. Location wise I believe Casa Linda owners told us it was about a 10 min walk (west) from Linda. I have a Matapalo map I can send if you want. But if you picture the road to BDC from PJ ... maybe a half mile or so before you pass entrance for Lapa Rios, a road goes off to left - this is the road to Matapalo, then about 50-100 yds down that road are the 4 casas (Pina and the other one on right set back from beach) and Bambu and Linda set closer to beach on left. If you continue past the houses on the road to Matapalo it winds around and passes entrance to Encanta. Keep going on the road past it and you'll pass lots of b&b type places, a smallish ranch, couple newish houses and ultimately Cabo Matapalo. (BDC's Gulfo Dulce trail leads up from right around there.)
Clearly Lapa Rios serves lunch, not so sure about Encanta and think Martina probably doesn't open till 6 in the eve (though I could be wrong about that). At night, wouldn't be any less dark or scarey walking to Encanta than to Martina's. At least Martina's is a really straight shot from her place to Casa Linda - just a 10 - 15 min walk along the main dirt road. Occasional car/truck going by, otherwise pitch dark. I admit to hanging on to my husband rather tightly as we strolled along with our little flashlight. . .
Clearly Lapa Rios serves lunch, not so sure about Encanta and think Martina probably doesn't open till 6 in the eve (though I could be wrong about that). At night, wouldn't be any less dark or scarey walking to Encanta than to Martina's. At least Martina's is a really straight shot from her place to Casa Linda - just a 10 - 15 min walk along the main dirt road. Occasional car/truck going by, otherwise pitch dark. I admit to hanging on to my husband rather tightly as we strolled along with our little flashlight. . .
