Food on Ambergris Caye
 

Just returned from a month stay in San Pedro. We go several times a year, own a place down there and love all aspects so no need to go on and on again about trip details - everything is awesome and we have an ongoing love affair with the place! (refer to previous posts!) So I'll just cut to the chase. This post is just a review of the restaurants and food while there.

Rico's (at Banyan Bay) Food and service just keeps getting better. Hands down best margarita's and ceviche on the island - and we've tried MANY! Margaritas used to be individually made and while good, somewhat inconsistent - sometimes sweet, sometimes sour. Now they pour from a pitcher and are still from 'scratch' but made ahead from fresh ingredients and are great every time. Try one - or four (!) Ceviche is always consistent - we get the combo (shrimp, conch & lobster) and is always loaded with fish - good assortment of veggies and spices but hey, the key is the goodies, right? Suggestion: order the combo ceviche and a green salad and scoop the ceviche over the salad and dive in. Goes well with the margaritas (what doesn't? hehe)
Also outstanding at Rico's: stone crab. plentiful, fresh and cooked just right. The snook is good but needs a little extra sauce (request a side of the sauce), substitute the coconut rice for the mashed potatoes - much better.

CONT:

Key lime pie and coconut pie absolutely divine - try both even if you can't finish them.

Taco's for lunch - awesome (more like stuffed fried taquitos), also lobster salad sandwich - yum.

Breakfast also great - try the huevos rancheros or eggs benedict royale with lobster (nice hollandaise sauce with champagne flavor - very good and good sauce - nice size portion, with a side of bacon large enough to split between two.)

Geroges Kitchen:
Hands down best breakfast on the island. Wonderful Bloody Mary's and great coffee - you won't be disappointed.

Blue Water Grill:
Always a favorite. Great ambiance and while some feel is fairly touristy always great food and terrific service. Tue. / Thurs. are sushi nights - LOVE the shred head roll. Black bean crusted snook always a favorite and didn't disappoint this time. The Japanese inspired dishes - fabulous. Just the right touch of flavor and fire and still a good fresh fish flavor. Love the green salad with pear slices, bleu cheese and walnuts. Doesn't really go with sushi but good and we get it anyway because we love it.

Wild Mangos:
New treat. Used to be Mango's with basic bar food but now chef is Amy Knox (formerly of Victoria House) and is a definite DON'T MISS! Try the coconut shrimp (crispy, crunchy, flavorful), the Paella (except for the mussels being a little overdone and tough - perfection - awesome sauce and flavors), Jerk grouper (incredible). We ate there three times and had many items - all wonderful.

Pasta la Vista (formerly Pauly's Pizza) Another DON'T MISS. Wonderful surprise. Didn't really come down for Italian food but met Sherry the owner (delightful and smart woman) and she convinced us to try it. Had the homemade lasagna (rendered my husband speechless - no small feat), stuffed manicotti (oh-my-gawd good) and key lime cheesecake (incredible and inventive variation on an island tradition)

Caramba's: Great as always but even better this time. MUST try the lobster fajitas and the grilled seafood platter appetizer (enough for an entree) Comes with complimentary snapper ceviche that is outstanding.

Caliente:
Fabulous as always. Our fav's: bacon wrapped ginger rum shrimp and the shrimp in coconut curry sauce (EVERY local will say, duh, that's everyone's favorite. Well, yes, they're right!) Had the ceviche this time also and while very good - not quite as good as Rico's

Cannibal's:
Known primarily as a beach bar, Cannibals also has very good food - breakfasts are good, fresh and generous protions and for lunch or dinner you HAVE to try the seafood kebob - wow, what a nice surprise. Big chunks of shrimp, lobster, fish, pineapple and tomatoes and nice little slices of onion and green peppers tucked between them all. Marinated in a tangy but mild marinade, grilled and served over a bed of rice. All for $35BZ - Lots of food, good price. And very cold beer and of course you get to visit with Ryan, the bartender - always a treat.hehe

Wish this thing had a spellchecker. Protions s/b portions. Also: the CONT. is a continuation of Rico's review...

Hightide - just returned from our first visit to San Pedro -would've been good to see your reviews first, but we did eat at several of the places you mention. Definitely agree about Rico's. We had read a lot of negative reviews, so were leary. But since we stayed at Banyan Bay - tried it for lunch and really enjoyed it. We discovered the ceviche our first day - but unfortunately didn't discover the stone crabs until our last. Wow they were good, and less expensive than in Miami.

I also really liked Wild Mangos (the lobster tempura with asian slaw was amazing) but had hit and miss at Blue Water Grill (didn't like the Thai shrimp - too sweet and not nearly spicy enough). I didn't know to order the coconut curry shrimp at Claiente, but loved the seafood tacos al carbon.

How nice for you that you get to go to San Pedro so often - I'm jealous.

THANK YOU! Just what I needed. We are headed to Belize in just a few days. Our last stop is Ambergris. And I love to eat!

Thanks for the tips - we will be there Feb 14th for 10 days. I think we missed lobster season though....You didn't mention Papi's diner and Jambel Jerk - two of our favourites. Good to know about Ricos - we are staying at Banyan Bay.
Also - any opinions on best restaurant on Caye Caulker?

We will be in AC later this month. For a special dinner out of San Pedro, which of these three restaurants would you recommend:

Mambo at Mata Chica
Capricorn
Le Bistro at Portofino

Thanks!

I know I'm not answering your question, but if I was heading to north Ambergris for dinner, it would be Rojo Lounge at Azul. I had lunch there a year or so ago, wonderful food and a beautiful setting.

Four more days, and San Pedro here I come!

Here are my reviews of restaurants on Ambergris Caye.

My star rating system is based on a number of factors — first and foremost the quality of the food. However, service, atmosphere, setting and value also play a role. A hole-in-the-wall take-out joint may have the world’s best fried chicken, but even so it won’t earn four or five stars.

***** One of finest restaurants in Central America and the Caribbean, with food, service and atmosphere of a uniquely high standard. Worth a special trip just to dine here.

**** One of the top restaurants in all of Belize, with outstanding food, service and atmosphere. Go out of your way to experience it.

*** A superior restaurant, with excellent food and, in most cases, very nice atmosphere and good service. May also be a good value.

** A dependably good place to eat, with well-prepared food and above-average atmosphere and service. May also offer excellent value.

* Recommended for unpretentious food, well-prepared, where you get your money’s worth.

Price ranges shown are for typical meals for one (usually dinner), not including tip, tax or alcoholic drinks.
Price ranges:
Inexpensive: Under US$5
Moderate: US$6-$15
Expensive: US$16-30
Very Expensive: Over US$30

IN TOWN OR NEARBY:
****+ Blue Water Grill. At SunBreeze Hotel, Coconut Drive; tel. 501-226-3347. Blue Water Grill aims high, and usually hits the spot. Try the mixed seafood grill or the local snapper dusted
in cumin. The crispy Coconut Shrimp appetizer is a winner. Many dishes are Asian-influenced. One or two nights a week sushi is offered. Run by Kelly McDermott, a San Pedro native, and Texan
Chris Aycock. Often jammed. Expensive/Very Expensive.

****+ Wild Mango’s. Barrier Reef Drive, near the town library. Award-winning chef Amy Knox moved here from Victoria House, bringing her “New Wave Latin” cooking with her. She quickly made Wild Mango’s one of the top restaurants on the
island. One of the specialities is ceviche, not just one kind but a variety of different ceviches. You can try a sampler, the Three Amigos. Knox also delivers some great Mexican dishes and, of course, seafood. The snapper is particularly good. Moderate-Expensive.

***+ Elvi’s Kitchen. Pescador Drive, tel. 501-226-2176, fax 226-3056. Yes, it’s a little touristy, and yes, the waiters are a little hyper, and, yes, it’s a little more expensive than some, but
Elvi’s does a fine job with fish and just about everything. Doña Elvia Staines began her restaurant as a take-out burger stand in 1974. It has grown in fame and fortune year after year, until today it is probably the best-known restaurant in Belize. There are still burgers on the lunch menu (under US$6) along with shrimp and fish burger versions. At dinner, you choose from large selection of seafood, chicken and other dishes, and almost all of it is good, with prices mostly under US$15 for entrees. We always enjoy our meals here. The sand floor and the living frangipani tree around which the main dining room is built add atmosphere. Open for lunch and dinner. Moderate/Expensive.

***+ Papi’s Diner. Pescador Drive, at the north end of town behind Seven Seas, tel. 501-226-2047. This is a great local find. There’s no water view here, and the atmosphere is a bit like being on someone’s back porch (though it was remodeled in
mid-2006), but just about everything here is good, and the prices (fried chicken, US$5, or grilled fish, US$10, both served with potato and steamed veggies) are a bargain. Moderate.

*** Chon Saan Palace, Tarpon Street and Pescador Drive, San Pedro. The original Chon Saan Palace has been a fixture in Belize City since 1974, and nearly everybody considers it the best Chinese food in Belize. In 2006, it opened in San Pedro.
The menu is huge, with over 200 items. Many are “traditional” Cantonese and U.S.-style dishes such as chow mein, chop suey, and sweet and sour pork, but there also are more sophisticated and spicey dishes from other regions. Many think the food in
San Pedro isn’t as good as that in Belize City. Moderate to Expensive.

*** JamBel Jerk Pit, Barrier Reef Drive, tel. 501-226-3303, with a branch at the Coral Beach Hotel a little farther south on Barrier Reef Drive (there’s also a location in Belize City). Take a
fat Belizean grouper and jerk it Jamaica style and whattyagot? Some of the spiciest, tastiest food in San Pedro, that’s what. The chicken wings, jerk-style pork, fish and chicken are all delicious. If the wind isn’t too brisk, eat up on the roof at the original location, with great views of the water. Moderate.

*** Cocina Caramba. Pescador Drive; tel. 501-603-1652. Owner Rene Reyes has made a big success out of Caramba by simply serving good food in large portions at moderate prices.
This spot is usually packed. Just about any of the seafood and Mexican dishes are tasty and well-prepared. Moderate.

*** Caliente. Spindrift Hotel, Barrier Reef Drive, tel. 501-226- 2170; a Caliente Norte branch is at the Essene Way on North Ambergris. This restaurant, run by Jenny Staines and her partner, gets attention for its spicy versions of traditional favorites such as conch ceviche, its big variety of seafood and Mexican dishes and for its delicious soups. Locally popular for lunch. Caliente Norte opened in late 2005 at the Essene Way. Moderate/Expensive.

** El Fogon. In the Airstrip area, San Pedro. Directions: Go to Tropic Cargo, take a right at the first street, look for a sign for Madisco -- El Fogon is on the left. New in 2006, and run by
island native Patty Arceo and her sisters, this little restaurant tries for local food at reasonable prices. It’s cooked on fogons-- traditional open fire hearths. The same family operate Hacal Kiik, which has great local breads. Indeed, Hacal Kiik may be a better choice. Inexpensive to Moderate.

** The Reef. Pescador Drive, tel. 501-226-3212. This local favorite serves tasty Belizean fare such as stew chicken with rice and beans in large portions at small prices. Open for lunch and dinner. At lunch, there’s a daily special for BZ$5. Inexpensive to Moderate.

** Fido’s. Barrier Reef Drive, tel. 501-226-3714. (Pronounced FEE-doh’s.) Extremely popular, centrally located spot for a beer and a bite. Sit under the big palapa by the sea and enjoy burgers, fish and chips or lobster burrito. Live music many nights. Now there’s a branch at the South End of the island at Royal Caribbean Resort. Moderate.

** Celi’s Restaurant. San Pedro Holiday Hotel, Barrier Reef Drive, tel. 501-226-2014. Celi’s, on the beach side of the Holiday Hotel, is one of the long-established, unpretentious eateries on the island. Fish is a specialty, and it won’t cost you
an arm and a leg. You can dine inside or in a screened area by the beach. Open for lunch and dinner. Moderate/Expensive.
Celi’s Deli (*+, Inexpensive), for quick snacks, sandwiches, and meat pies, is nearby.

** Estel’s-by-the-Sea. Barrier Reef Drive, tel. 501-226-2019. Charlie and Estella Worthington and their son run this little seaside restaurant
near Central Park. With its sand floor this place reeks with atmosphere. It’s a favorite spot for breakfast, with all the usual egg-and-bacon basics plus fried potatoes, but you’ll also enjoy the burritos and huevos rancheros. Opens early,
closed Tuesdays. Moderate.

** BC’s Beach Bar. Tel. 501-226-3289. Named after the owners, Bruce and Charlene, BC’s is on the beach just south of SunBreeze. Don’t miss the Sunday afternoon barbecue here. On Tuesday evenings, they do burgers on the beach. Other
times, it’s popular with the drinking crowd. Moderate.

** Hacal Kiik. 2 Chicken St., in the Airstrip area. This is another good place for local breads such as banana bread, johnnycakes, powder buns and meat bread. Hacal Kiik, which means “my sister’s place” in Mayan, also has pizza and sells a variety of Belizean village wines including cashew, crabooand
mamey. Inexpensive to Moderate.

*+ Rubie’s (or Ruby’s), Barrier Reef Drive, tel. 501-226-2063. If you can’t sleep or are heading out for a day of fishing, get up early and grab a casual breakfast at Ruby’s. For a few dollars,
you can enjoy coffee, burritos and the best coconut tarts on the island. Later in the day, there are sandwiches and daily specials. It starts serving around 6 a.m., and usually stays open until just
after lunch. Inexpensive.

*+ Los Cocos. At the north end of town near San Pedro Supermarket and Ritchie’s. Cheap Belizean-Mexican items like stew chicken and pork chops. The atmosphere is pretty low rent but the food more than makes up for it. Lots of locals eat here.
Inexpensive/Moderate.

*+ Casa Pan Dulce Bakery. Boca del Rio area north, with a second location at the corner of Pescador Drive and Buccaneer; tel. 501-226-3242. Formerly La Popular, Pan Dulce has the best baked stuff on the island. It has a huge selection of more than
70 kinds of breads and pastries, all baked fresh locally. Inexpensive.

* Street vendors offer food that is cheap, good and safe to eat. Most have now been moved away from the stalls at Central Park (progress, we guess), but some have set up on Pescador Drive and elsewhere. You can get a whole plate full of delicious
food for a few bucks. Don’t worry – it won’t upset your tummy. Also don’t miss the Lions Club barbecue on Friday and Saturday nights. The barbecue is great and the flan is out of
this world. The money also goes to a good cause – improved health care on the island. Inexpensive.
For ice cream, two great places, both in town, are *+ Mannelly’s and *+ DanDe’s, which has frozen custard. For coffee, besides Caye Coffee’s shop south of town (see below), an espresso bar called *+ Island Perks opened in palapas on
Barrier Reef Drive across from Fido’s. They also serve drinks.

SOUTH OF TOWN
**** Casa Picasso. San Pablo area, on the lagoon side; tel. 501- 226-4507. This restaurant is a little hard to find, but it’s worth it, if you like frosty martinis and mojitos, interesting Spanish-style tapas and innovative pasta dishes. Hip atmosphere,
but friendly. Expensive.

***+ Victoria House Restaurant. Coconut Drive at Victoria House resort, tel. 501-226-2067. The main restaurant at Victoria House, Palmilla, once dependent on unexciting buffets, has had a marked change for the better under a succession of
innovative chefs. For dinner, dine by romantic candlelight. In late 2006, a new Japanese chef took over. Expensive to Very Expensive.

*** El Divino. Coconut Drive at Banana Beach; tel. 501-226- 3890. Tim Jeffer’s air-conditioned restaurant (there’s also seating outside) has delicious, Yucatan-style ceviche and some of the best steaks around. Also try the wood-fired pizza. The bar serves big, ice-cold martinis. Expensive.

*** Rico’s Bar & Grill. Coconut Drive, at Villas at Banyan Bay. No other restaurant on the island has a better seaside setting than Rico’s, and now the food has improved, making this a good choce for atmosphere and victuals. It’s right on the beach. This is a fine place for breakfast or lunch on the water. After your lunch, you can feed your leftovers to the “pet” moray eels that hang out at waterside. Dinners are on the pricey side, but, again, the seaside setting is wonderful. Moderate/Expensive.

** Caye Coffee. San Pablo residential area near the Sausage Factory. The freshest and best coffee on the island, if not in all of Belize. It’s roasted fresh here. Inexpensive.

** George’s Kitchen. Coconut Drive, across from Woody’s Wharf. This casual spot has good breakfasts, and for value and simple good eating, you’ll like it for other meals, too. Moderate.

*+ Ali Baba. Coconut Drive, on the east side near the airstrip. Excellent, high-value takeout roast chicken (whole chicken, BZ$15) and Middle Eastern dishes like humus. Inexpensive/Moderate.

*+ Antojitos San Telmo. Coconut Drive near Villas at Banyan Bay, tel. 501-226-2921. It’s just a joint, but a good joint, with snacks like tacos and burritos for almost nothing. Inexpensive.

*+ Tropical Cooking. Coconut Drive across from the Tropic Air terminal. Good local lunches at modest prices -- like four delicious chicken tacos for US$2.50.

NORTH AMBERGRIS
****++ Rojo Lounge. At Azul Resort; tel. 501-226-4012. Yes, Darlin’, this is the hippest restaurant in Belize. It enjoys a romantic beachside setting, where you can watch the Caribbean
change colors by day or the stars flicker at night. Conch pizza is US$19 and grouper stuffed with cashew-crusted lobster is US$31. The guava-glazed ribs are a specialty. Killer mojitos are
US$8. You’ll want to take a water taxi here. Closed Monday. Expensive to Very Expensive.

****+ Rendezvous. Next door to Journey’s End, tel. 501- 226-3426. We’ll meet you here! This may be the first Thai- French fusion restaurant in Central America and surely it’s the best. Run by expats who formerly lived in Southeast Asia and
elsewhere, with expert help from local cooks, Rendezvous has become one of the top restaurants on the island. With just 24 seats, the setting is intimate, on the second floor of a colonial-style house by the water. The menu changes frequently, but you can expect dishes such as pad thai or chicken in a red curry coconut sauce. The restaurant even makes its own wines (from
imported grape juice). Reservations suggested. Reached by water taxi. Expensive to Very Expensive.

*** Mambo. Mata Chica Beach Resort; tel. 501-220-5010. If you’d visited the island a few years ago, you’d never have thought Ambergris Caye would get this kind of place. The
restaurant space is open, appealing and upscale. Everything is designed to the hilt – even the menus show hours of design time. On those menus is a selection of Italian dishes and seafood, along with daily specials. But you need to bring plenty of money or plastic. Prices are stratospheric, at
least by Belizean standards. Note that with new ownership at Mata Chica, the menu here is changing. Open for lunch and dinner. Reached by water taxi. Very Expensive.

*** Capricorn. About 3 miles north of San Pedro, tel. 501- 226-2809. Once without a doubt the best restaurant on the island, Capricorn, under different management, slipped. It’s still a romantic setting, and some dishes are first rate, but, sorry to say, it’s not what it was. With new owners in late
2006, the hope is that it will return to its former glory. Stay tuned. Very Expensive.

--Lan Sluder
www.belizefirst.com

Thanks very much, Lan. After AC we will spend a few days at Chaa Chreek and get the jungle experience in Belize.

cdnfolks: on Caye Caulker try Habaneros - didn't eat there this last trip but have several times in the last year and was great. Darin (sp?) the owner/chef is a hoot and very creative and inventive with his food and selections.

Don't know that I agree with Lan's 'additions', no offense. (Neighbors ate at Capricorn and RAVED about it, ate there last trip and was great. Went to Elvi's and the 'pan-flute' entertainment drove us out, food just so-so). Plus, while I'm sure very well thought out and prepared Lan's input just seem like canned remarks ready for publication - and seriously, kudos to you for achieving that. I have no doubt you know what you're talking about but my remarks (and this post) were intended to relay honest opinions based on recent and unbiased taste-tests.