Estancia experience worthwhile?
 

We will be in Argentina in August and are wondering how best to plan our time. One idea is to base ourselves in BA for six nights and explore the city/take day trips from there. Another is to spend four nights in BA and two on an estancia. We've looked at the websites, but there are so many that it is hard to tell which ones are most lovely. We would enjoy the experience of horseback riding if we were to go to an estancia, but we're not very experienced riders and are thus wondering if it would even be an option. Can anyone share thoughts on whether or not this would be worth doing for a couple of nights, and if so which estancias would be the most charming and intimate? Thanks!

Hi, we stayed in 2 estancias, one in Patagonia and one in San Rosario de Areco. We loved both. In San Rosario which is near BA the family raised polo ponies which are really easy to ride. We did lots of riding there and my kids had only been on a horse once or twice before and had no problems. The other estancia was much wilder and in the middle of nowhere. it was a huge sheep farm. We rode there too. In both cases the accommodation and food were of a very high standard. Both families were very hospitable and interesting, though very different. it is definitely an experience I would repeat. Go for it!

Hi WinterTravel, I agree with Carrom, go for it...in this time and the age of cosumption and everything in a box ( I am thinking of food in boxes, like when you go to the super market and everything is half cooked, half prepared and in a box) a estancia is so different from our everyday life, their way of life so far from ours that I though it was fascinating.
There is a daily comunion with nature and a hard life at the same time peace and quiet.
This does not mean that the families that run the estancia are not sofisticated and have a vast culture , usually they do.
For me traveling is opening a window to peek into different ways of life. Although I feel highly of the golden opportunity of living in the States I also regret some values that have been lost.

In March, we stayed for two days at the estancia El Ombu de Areco, outside of BA. It was a high point of our trip. Neither of us are great riders, but we enjoyed the horseback rides at the estancia. The food was excellent, with a typical barbecue one night. There was also entertainment and competitions between the guachos.

There was lots to do with two swimming pools and a game room. We went into town one afternoon to see the Guacho Museum, which was very interesting. Let me know if you would like more information about El Ombu.

Thanks for the replies thus far. It sounds like we should certainly try to have an estancia experience. Given our limited time in Argentina, we would need to choose an estancia relatively near to BA. We'd like to find one that has very lovely rooms and the opportunity for horseback. Carrom - it sounds like the estancia near San Rosario de Areco where you stayed might be a good one to consider. Do you recommend it - could you share the name? Also, you mentioned the polo ponies -- was there an opportunity to give polo a try at all while you were there?

Hi, our estancia was called San Rosario de Areco in a small town called San Antonio. I think it was about one hours' interesting drive from BA through the pampas. The estancia itself was quite an elegant country home with well kept lawns and swimming pool. The rooms were simple but charming in the old restored stables building and they had kept some of the old fittings. No great views or anything but very tasteful. meals were excellent, I would define it home "gourmet" cooking. The owner and his French origin wife were extremely charming and cultivated people with at least 8 lovely kids of all ages. It was pleasant to chat with the family after dinner in the living room but you could also go away and sit in a private sitting room in the "stables" area. It was the 16-18 yr old boys who took us riding. One was a professional polo player. We didn't actually see any polo being played. They took us on a visit to San Antonio town which was also very interesting.I would reccommend this estancia as it was very mellow and we enjoyed our time there. However it was a while ago 2002/2002, and very very expensive at the time. We were the only people there as it was right in the middle of all the political and economic upheavals. Things may be a little different now and prices should be lower.
Good luck!

As Carrom said San Antonio de Areco is the place to go if you want to visit real estancias. But, it is not the only place. More and more estancias have been opened to people recently, some of them nearer BsAs. Yet, San Antonio de Areco has still the most traditional ones in my opinion. and what is really good is to visit the town which hasnt changed with tourism.
Generally these estancias dont offer these shows or what we call the "fiestas gauchas", they just offer days in the countryside. carriages, good horses pool and fishing. The town San Antonio is for a half day stay, you will be able to see how people live with a different pace much nicer than the one we have in the city, the museum or the famous old places where the gauchos had a "drink" are fascinating. And if you are lucky, you will even see some of the festivals that are carried out in the area. Anyway for the people who stay only 6 nights in Buenos Aires only l night in a estancia will suffice.

This is all such helpful information - thank you to all who have replied thus far. One other question for you -- we will not have a car in BA, but assume that renting one for a couple of days is the best way to get out to an estancia and see the countryside on the way. Is this an easy thing to do? Is self-drive a good idea?

I am not sure but I found out thar remises have great rates. You might as well compare renting a car and "negociating" a good deal with a reliable remise company.

Sorry for the ignorance, but I'm afraid that we don't know what a "remise" is -- can you fill us in?

a remise is a private car and driver that you can use use to take you to different places.

Self driving might not be a good idea , traffic in B.A. is crazy and people get violent while driving.
As for an Estancias there are many , one of the top ones is Villa Maria ( 50 minutes by car from downtown, in Marcos Paz. Take care on your riding !!

Would a remise be practical if we are planning to go out for 1-2 nights (we are assuming that it would get expensive, since the driver would have to stay somewhere and perhaps be paid for his waiting time). Any other suggestions for transportation to an estancia? Anyone else have experience with self-drive?

We picked up a car at the airport and drove to La Bamba which is a lovely place to stay outside of San Antonio. It was a very easy drive, we got a rental car at the airport and then picked the highway up right outside the airport. Had no difficulty with traffic in BA. The drive to the estancia took a little over an hour and it was a straight, flat, well maintained road with very little traffic. La Bamba had offered to have a driver pick us up and return us to BA for a reasonable amount of $ (sorry, can't recall how much it was). We drove from La Bamba into town for one afternoon. On the next day we drove to another estancia, Santa Rita which was a little over an hour from LaBamba. From Santa Rita we drove back to BA the next day which took about 90 minutes. Again no problem with traffic. We returned to BA on a Sunday early afternoon so that may have helped with the traffic situation.
On your question re experience with horseback riding -- we have minimal experience and had no problem. Our guide at laBamba was great and very considerate of our lack of experience.

Hi, I am glad that Dona had a good driving experience in Buenos Aires. Coming into town on an early Sunday afternoon I am sure was a lucky brake. Usually it can be difficult to drive in Buenos Aires, think of Rome and then picture it twice as difficult.
But of course if you can take the car at the airport and the estancia is in that general direction it also will be a lucky brake. What I am saying is of course it could be done but also it could be a nightmare of a drive. Good luck

i wouldnt say it is a good idea to go from the Ezeiza airport to San Antonio de Areco on your own. It is a long way longer than l hour`s drive. There are other ranches nearer Ezeiza (Villa Maria) and easier to access.
Besides signals are not very clear they are sometimes difficult for locals, so it would be a waste of time for tourists. Time for tourists is more important than money. Why complicate?

Some estancias have a service some others not.

From Ezeiza to San Antonio de Areco the transfer is u$s 50 in a van From San Antonio to Buenos Aires the same van is u$s 40. That is the person who directly works with estancias in San Antonio de Areco.You can hire him the day you arrive and come to Bs.As 2 days later.

But you can also organize that directly with the estancia or through an agency.Some agencies work regularly with estancias and the transfer in and out is much cheaper. These outings are generally organized for a day stay. So, you can go one day with one group and come back the following day with another.
Good luck.

Just to clarify our driving experience to La Bamba -- we left from the domestic airport, Newberry, not Eze. We received very good directions from the owner of LaBamba and did not have difficulty following them. It may have taken us a little over an hour, but definitely under 2 hours to get to LaBamba. Once outside of BA, it is an easy drive with very little traffic. While not fans of driving in cities we do enjoy the freedom that having a car allows us on trips outside cities. Renting a car is certainly doable if one enjoys driving. When we were looking at which estancia to stay at, all of them offered car service to and from BA so if you chose to have a driver it should be easy. Whatever you decide, enjoy - Argentina is a wonderful country to explore.

Hi,
We went to an estancia in November 2004...we had a great time...my friend was not at all sure about the horse riding bit and really proud of her accomplishments.

We stayed overnight and it was brilliant...relaxing and beautiful rooms, food etc...we stayed at El Ombu ...referred to in earlier messages...but we flew there in our own private little plane...it was really inexpensive and I would really reccommend it...it was very affordable...I can't imagine being able to afford it in any other country...$65 each... there were two of us...you can find out about it on the El Ombu website

Hope this helps
M

Hi, following my own advise, I finally spent a day in a estancia on May30,2005.
The estancia I chose was Estancia Los dos Hermanos, www.estancialosdoshermanos.com.
After some consideration I chose this one because I was looking to visit a real estancia, to be able to chat with owners, and to ride on horse. I was not interested in a tourist show.I hoped -and got it- to be able to go around the Pampas, to gallop, to feel the wind in my face like a real gaucho.
I was able to do this :-), I am no good rider but I did it. Of course they called me the day before to know how was my riding and to match me with the right horse. And so they did. They also told me that they have old carriages and that If I didn't care to ride that day they would take me around in an old carriage. The matter in fact a couple of ladies did that and they told me they had a good time.
But I am happy I chose to ride.
I did not stay over night, although they have very nice guest's cottages.
For $45 dollars everything was included the food and the rides, we enjoyed a continental breakfast, a delicious lunch of filet mignon, salads and other bar b q meats Argentinean stylye ,= Asado. Previouly we tried those delicious empanadas, that is meat pies with excellent Argentinean wine and after the afternoon ride we had teatime, this particular tea offered a choice of tea, coffee or mate. This crazy tea they dring with a Bombilla, some kind of a metal straw.
There were two horse rides, one in the morning which lasted about and hour and a half and one after lunch which last 3 and a half hours. Always
accompanied by two instructors which spoke English, at least one did very well. They took as to beautiful spots, peaceful, green,...we saw many birds lovely brooks, they call them cañadas, I believe.
Above all it was the galloping that I loved, at the begining I was a little afraid to try it, but soon with simple instructions there I was doing it. I really enjoy it.
The best part was the warmth of the owners, they made me feel like visiting old friends.
There is a pool, but in May it was not warm enough.