Costa Rica Trip Report
 

I traveled to Costa Rica from January 9-15, visiting Alajuela, Arenal, Monteverde and points in between. Much of the trip was based on comments in this forum. Thanks to all who helped!

My hotels were Villa Bonita (1st & last nights), Linda Vista del Norte (3 nights) and Arco Isis (1 night). The only rain during the trip was late in the day at Arenal on Thursday and Friday.

My debt card never would work at ATMs during the trip, but I used credit cards for almost everything and had no trouble using dollars for the rest. With the exception of the supers (markets) and gas stations, practically every price I saw quoted during my visit was quoted in US dollars.



My arrival wasn't until late on Wednesday night. But following the instructions from Villa Bonita's website, I took a taxi to the hotel and was in my room just 30 minutes after my plan arrived a the gate.

Thursday morning, Tricolor Car Rental picked me up at the hotel, and I rented a small 4x4. I was on my way out of Alajuela by 10AM.

I drove to Arenal, with just one stop, La Paz Waterfall Gardens. I enjoyed the gardens, exhibits, and long series of waterfalls, but wouldn't do the buffet if I returned. There are a lot of steps at the falls and I was happy to wait for the shuttle back to the entrance. Besides, it was fun watching the man feeding bananas to coati & raccoons next to the benches.

As I approached La Fortuna, I was surprised by the size of the volcano. It dominated the horizon and looms over La Fortuna. I drove through town, around the base of the mountain past many resorts and tuned off on the rough unpaved road to my hotel.

Since it was clear, I stopped at the river to photograph the mountain and some of the pyroclastic flow of ash, gas & rock.

It stated raining shortly after I arrived at the hotel and no lava could be seen that night.

Friday morning was clear. I took a few photos and drove into Fortuna for the Sunset Tour to Cano Negro. It was a great choice. We saw iguanas on the way there and a toucan on the return. On and near the river we saw many species of birds, howler monkeys, white-faced capuchin, bats, basilisk, and a three toed sloth.

Supper that night was at the Gingerbread Restaurant in Nuevo Arenal, and it was the best meal of the trip.

Saturday I had the típico desayunos (typical breakfast) that was included with the room at Linda Vista: eggs, toast, gallo pinto (red beans & rice), fried plantain and bland white cheese. I rarely eat breakfast, but this was pretty good, much better than the dinner there two nights before. Continental and American breakfasts were also offered. But it is no use if you have an early tour, the restaurant doesn't open until 7 AM.

In the morning I mountain biked with Bike Arenal. In the afternoon I horseback rode (my horse's name was Tortuga) and ziplines with Arenal Canopy Tour. I don't see the attraction of ziplines, they are OK as transportation, but I thought the horseback riding (which I had never done before) was a lot more fun.

That evening I finally saw the lava at night. The top of the mountain was still shrouded in clouds, but some lava was getting low enough to be seen. It was faint like the glow from spent fireworks, and very fleeting, glowing for only a few seconds. Even with my tripod, I was unable to get photos. Guess I should have stayed at the Arenal Observatory Lodge, a few kilometers closer.

Sunday was the drive to Monteverde. The last 10 kilometers were like driving up a steep, dry river bed with rocks sticking out of the ground and large holes. On this stretch I never got out of first gear. But it was kind of fun, I discovered that I was grinning as I fought the way up the path. I've never named a car before, but I decided to name the Ignis I was driving, "Tortuga" after the horse I rode the day before. I shifted into first gear, called "On, Tortuga" and continued on.

I did the night tour at Reserva Biologica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde. Their guided night tour was the bargain of the trip at only $17 including transportation. We didn't see as many animals as I might of liked but did see a two-toed sloth.

The next morning I did the Hanging bridges at Selvatura Park, but wish I had booked another guided hike instead.

The second best meal of the trip was at the Tree House Restaurant in Santa Elena. I had Mariscos, a Latin American version of fruits de mer - an open faced sandwich with white squid, clams, mussels and roasted tuna, garnished with green salad, capers, tomato, hard boiled egg, olives and pickles. $8.95 including French fries, a local tartar sauce and mustard sauce. More than I could eat. I recommend it.

I returned to Alajuela that afternoon.

Tuesday morning there was time to visit Poas Volcano National Park, before returning the rental and flying out. The view of the crater was clear. The sulfuric acid lake below had a fair amount of steam rising, but any active geysers were blocked from our view by the lip on our side. There were only about 20 visitors this early in the day. Although I could hear a few birds, I didn't see any. But did get a few photos of plants along the walk.

For a longer version of this trip report and about 130 photographs, visit http://www.mightymac.org/costarica/

Keith

Keith, thank you for the link to your photos and travel journal! Your attention to the details was terrific! The proper names for the animals(insects, butterflies, etc.) and information throughout was very enjoyable! So many of the photos made me smile in recognition of similar experiences. The entire report was just terrific. Thank you for sharing!

Thanks for taking the time to chronicle your trip - it was a great report. We are traveling in Mar & although are travelling a different route (Osa peninsula, Areal , Quepos (Manuel Antonio) found your account very helpful.

Great trip report! I read the details on your web page and they were really good! And your pictures are just awesome! I felt like I was back at Arenal and La Paz. And I can't believe anybody actually gets to see Poas that clearly! It sounded like you had a really nice trip....thanks for sharing!

What a great trip report! It brought back many memories. Thank you.

Thanks, sounds like you had a great time - especially driving to Monteverde! I know about that grin you get when you're doing something crazy and yet having a blast.

How long did you spend at La Paz? Since I stayed at Peace Lodge last year for 2 nights I very lazily wandered about the trails & exhibits; this coming May I was considering doing a quickie day trip there (approx 3 hours at the park) so my dad can see it but have no comparison if the park can reasonably be "seen" in that short of a time. Thoughts?

Off to look at your pics!

Keith, wonderful and detail-filled trip report. It brought back a lot of wonderful memories for us. I'm surprised Sunset Tours doesn't stop on the side of the river for lunch anymore. When we did our tour, they were leasing land on the side of the river from a family, and they had built a nice palapa with seating, nice restroom, etc. Loved all your pictures - we haven't been to Monteverde yet, but your pictures gave us good insight into what we could expect. Loved the charming Tree House restaurant as well. And what a great view you had of Poas! Sounds like a great trip.

Keith,
Great trip report, and thanks for the link to your travel journal – the pictures are fantastic! Loved the details and the restaurant reviews, looks like you had a wonderful trip.

How long was the horse ride? We are going to CR next year for the first time, and I’m planning a horse riding tour, but that would me my first time on a horse, so I’m not sure what to expect. I know you said you enjoyed it, but yours was part of a longer trip – would you think a half day on the horse would be too long for a first time? Thanks.

Thank you for the friendly comments. Although I ultimately prepared the journal for myself in the future, it is that encouragement that keeps me doing them. Wish I had done them 25 years ago.

tully, I spent 2 hours La Paz. Another hour would have been plenty, and allowed me to spend more time at the reptile, orchid and frog exhibits.

volcanogirl, I'm guessing that the change in meal location came about because of the new docking location on the grounds of El Caiman Restaurante. Our guide apologized for the bad road to the river, and said the location they used to use was now too developed and used by all the other tour companies.

We spent about 30 minutes on horseback each way. Although I didn't feel it at the time, that was enough that I could feel where my body had met the saddle, for a coupe of days. Three times as much time in the saddle may have been than this novice would have enjoyed.

Keith

Keith,

Thanks so much for the great trip report and pictures! I emailed you for a copy of that map.

I really like that you took pictures of the roads and towns and the rooms in your hotels. It gives us an idea of what it is like there before we arrive!

Keith, I thoroughly enjoyed your report. Thanks for taking the time to post! Rather than comment on what you said, I was struck more by HOW you said it! Obviously, you captured the Pura Vida spirit fairly quickly--travel in Costa Rica requires that attitude--the kind that brings a smile just at the very THOUGHT of whatever outrageous thing it is you find yourself doing! Brings back some great memories! :)

Keith - I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed your report. I will be taking my first trip to Costa Rica in February and your photos and commentary really brought it alive for me!

Amazing photos Keith. Thanks for sharing.

Dear Keith:

I enjoyed your report & photos very much!! A very different trip to Arenal than ours: you had much more sun. We had none.

Thanks again,

MY

Hi Keith! Thanks for sharing your trip report. I'm gonna go check out your photos now, that everyone's raving about. ;) Your trip was very well laid out, and it sounds like you were able to fit quite a bit in and still fully enjoy yourself. That's what a great vacation is all about!

Thanks for your response keith - still trying to decide if I want to hit there as a day trip or not. Just curious - on your atm's, did you try Scotia Bank? I've always had 100% success with them.

I didn't think there was a Scotia Bank in Fortuna. http://www.arenal.net/maps/La-Fortuna.gif doesn't show one. I tired the Money Exchange next to the Sunset Tours Office, both of the machines at Banco National, and one at Banco de Costa Rica.

Thanks for the kind words about the photos. I was a bit disapointed in them.

Keith

Having a Mastercard (Cirrus) means that we always have to find a Bank of San Jose. There are several scattered all over the country, and we have a printout that someone posted here regarding all the locations. They always work for us, but Bank of Costa Rica and Banco Nacional and the others only work with Visa Plus.

My card is Plus and Interbank.

Keith

Keith,
Enjoyed your trip report and photos so much - we leave in five weeks for our first trip, will only overlap yours at Monteverde, but great info for planning Trip #2 in '09.
You brought up a good point on Hanging Bridges and zipline noise scaring off animals - think we will skip that and go on more guided hikes at other reserves as you suggested.
Thanks for the great info!