Costa Rica mugging: cautionary tale with tips
 

I'm not sure what's happening, but this link keeps freezing my computer. I tried entering the Mercury News website on my own and searching for something Costa Rica-related and can't find it. Could you supply a few details? Thanks.

Same for me, Jeff. I'm sure it's not hawaiifanatic's fault, but something is weird about this link.

I would like to caution other posters not to click the link above.

hawaiifanatic, I'm still interested in this story, could you please copy and paste it? Thanks.

Tourist learns a few safety tips the hard way
EVEN FIT MALES CAN BE MUGGED
By Karl Kahler Mercury News
Article Launched: 09/06/2008 09:02:44 PM PDT


By Karl Kahler

PLAYA DEL COCO, Costa Rica — I felt safe enough strolling the beach alone past midnight in this resort town — I was right in front of my hotel, there was a police station two blocks to the right and there were several people hanging out on the beach.

Of course, those were the people who were about to mug me.

I turned to the left, where a little, gray footbridge crossed a marshy area between two roads. That was my first mistake: Don't go where the police can't drive.

Four shirtless, barefoot men came up behind me silent as wraiths, grabbed my body and slammed me face down onto the hard, splintery boards of the bridge.

I'm a fit 45-year-old, a former boxer and wrestler, and (when four men are not on top of me) a decent runner. I've traveled alone in places a lot more dangerous than Costa Rica, including post-genocide Rwanda and rebel-held Congo. I've sometimes thought, "I pity the fool who tries to mug me." But on this one night, when I let my guard down, I was the fool.

I tried to fight, but I couldn't — I was pinned, my arms and legs crushed under the weight of four tough guys. All I could do was scream.

"HELP! SOCORRO! AYUDAME! HELLLLP!"

Nobody heard me, though my hotel was only 50 paces away, with a guard in the front office and the five guys traveling with me fast asleep. (My excuse? Insomnia.)

My clearest memory of the attack was looking up and seeing a rangy


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man raising his heel and then stomping it into my nose. As I learned in my boxing days, a blow to the face doesn't hurt all that much in the heat of battle, but it does rattle your brain a bit.

"HELLLLLP!" The stomping didn't silence me, but now I felt a hand clamp over my mouth, a disturbingly intimate touch. And as it also covered most of my nose, I felt the panic of asphyxiation. I went silent, thrashing as I struggled to breathe.

I heard a muted voice: "Es todo." That's all.

And then a strange thing happened: They let me go and quietly slipped away. This was oddly surprising, as if I expected them to go on stomping and smothering me all night.

I rolled under the rails of the bridge and staggered back to the hotel. I noticed that the left pocket of my REI shorts had been ripped open for half a pack of cigarettes and an orange Bic lighter, while the zippered right pocket had been emptied of two Costa Rican bills worth $12.

Es todo. I had stashed my wallet and passport in my hotel room.

"You were lucky. They could have killed you for lack of money," said Peter Tarlow, a Texas A&M professor who has a doctorate in tourism security and lectures globally on the subject.

"People should never go out in the street without 25 bucks in their pocket. It could save your life," he said, citing cases in which robberies turned into homicides because the victims weren't carrying enough money to satisfy their attackers.

Another expert on travel safety, Ira Somerson, said: "You had a good instinct to leave your wallet and passport safely in your room. Why? Because you unconsciously understood the risk you were taking by going out for a walk alone!"

Somerson, who is president of Loss Management Consultants of Pennsylvania and has 30 years' experience as an expert witness and professional consultant on security issues, said: "First advice: Trust your instincts — it should be the first thing you listen to besides the advice you may get before traveling. You may choose to ignore the advice of others, but never ignore your instincts."

Crime against tourists is "very common," Tarlow said, even in countries you would think of as safe. Unfortunately, he says, those who contact him for travel safety information are often people who have already been victimized — people like me. The time to think about the issue is before it's too late.

Tarlow says the most common victims of tourism crime, counterintuitively, are single men ages 18 to 30. Why?

"Because they don't take precautions, they walk alone in dark places, they don't get medical care."

Guilty on all three counts.

My hotel guard, alarmed to see a crazed, bloody tourist staggering into his lobby, refused at first to call the police, telling me I could walk two blocks to the police station myself.

My brother and our sons, 18 and 21, doubly alarmed to see me with cuts all over my face and liberal splashes of blood on my shirt, watched as I showed the guard how they stomped my face — and he wanted me to go back out there so they could do it again?!

A young cop finally showed up on a motorbike, listened to my story, jotted a few notes and said it wasn't a good idea to walk in dangerous places at night. Then he rode back to his police station. Big help he was.

Tarlow says most victimized tourists never contact the police — and in fact, depending on where you are, it may be unwise to do so. In some places, the underpaid cops are as bad as the robbers. If you are robbed in London, by all means call the police. But if you're in Angola, think twice.

My second mistake was not immediately cleaning all my wounds and scouring them for splinters, gray paint, mud or anything else that didn't belong inside my body.

I had close to 30 cuts on my face, hands, elbows and knees. Nothing was broken, though my nose was red and swollen and bled for two hours. The inside of my lips were purple, and there was a big, weird spot of blood in my left eye.

The next day we drove to Monteverde, the cloud forest that is Costa Rica's biggest tourist attraction. I felt sore in lots of places, but I figured it would pass.

The day after that, I woke up feverish and in pain. Three wounds were infected. I could barely walk because of shooting pains in the knee, I couldn't use my right hand and I was practically delirious with fever.

So did I go to a doctor? No, and that was my third mistake.

Why not? I was hurting so bad, and I was so feverish, that I would have had a hard time getting out of bed if someone told me the hotel was on fire. Also, I had no idea how to find medical care, I feared it would cost me hundreds of dollars and I doubted it would be much help. I decided to wait until my return home.

Bad call. Getting medical care is like trying to find a bathroom when you need one — waiting doesn't help. Tarlow advises contacting the local U.S. consulate beforehand for the names of trustworthy doctors.

I stayed in bed all day, eating nothing but aspirin and over-the-counter antibiotics that my son brought me. I finally dressed my wounds properly with antibiotic ointment.

We spent the next two days getting home, arriving in the Bay Area late on a Friday. Not until Monday, six days after the attack, did I see my doctor, who gave me a tetanus shot and daily doses of antibiotic injections and oral antiobiotics for 10 days.

My doctor said the same thing Tarlow said: "You were lucky."

With luck like this, who needs misfortune?

While I nurse my wounds (and my wounded pride), I leave you with some sage advice from Somerson:

"Be prepared, learn about the environment you are visiting, understand that any traveler will be obvious in a different culture and therefore vulnerable. Never be alone at night in a turf you do not know, but most importantly listen to your instincts and avoid the potential dangers you perceive."

Scary article but that guy is indeed lucky to be alive. Thanks sean and hawaiifanatic for this warning.

It's good to read these things from time to time, although I hate it that they happen. All of us probably get a little complacent occasionally, and we need the reminder. Just out of curiosity, I'd like to know the percentage of crimes against tourists that happen on the beach late at night or early a.m. Probably fairly high. . .

Thanks Sean, for c & p for us.

Scary article! Thank you for copying the text.

As great as Costa Rica is as a vacation destination, no one should ever assume that it will be "just like home" in regards to the potential for crime and what happens in the aftermath of a crime. Add to that that the typical tourist who becomes victim of a crime can't stick around to see the case prosecuted.

I do believe that Costa Ricans are some of the most helpful people on the face of the earth, but I've encountered enough people like the hotel guard in the story who don't want to get involved. Some of that small handful are in the tourism industry and fear the negative publicity that crime brings about. Not most, certainly, but I see enough of this in the tourism industry that it disturbs me.

Where exactly was this - hotel?, etc

Hi: Sorry about the frozen link. It worked when I tested it under Fodor's preview mode. Thanks sean420 for finding and pasting in the article!

BTW, I made a trip to Costa Rica in late May and loved it. But before I left, I read the safety advice posted on this forum and incorporated it into my travel there. It never hurts to be "street wise."

I'd be leery hanging out alone on the beach here in my home city at midnight. Guess it serves as a reminder to not leave common sense off the packing list.

When we were lost on the Monkey Trail in April we happen upon Playa del Coco. We didn't stop and check it out because we wanted to find our hotel in Potrero, but my husband really liked the little town as we drove through it.

He wants to go back next June and stay there. I don't imagine we will be walking the beaches at midnight, and even though I have walked quite a few places alone in CR, I wouldn't do it that late.

Can anyone recommend a good place to stay in the area?

Thanks

I don't know much about it, cgenster, but a few years ago read an article about Flor de Itabo (or very similar name if that one isn't right on). I think there is quite a bit of fishing out of Coco, particularly this hotel. Nearby, of course, you have Playa Ocotal, Hermosa, etc. Plenty of places to stay in Hermosa. And you are right, it doesn't matter where you are, night and alone are never a good combination.

Check out nationmaster.com. It ranks nations in all categories, including crime. Costa Rica is ranked # 7 in murders involving firearms! Costa Rica beat out the U.S which was #8. Costa Rica also was ranked as #19 for murders per capita. The U.S was #24. Suprising stats as most would have you believe that C.R only has petty crime and is much safer than the U.S! That being said, C.R is one of my favorite places on earth, but the goverment needs to get a handle on the violent crime. AM Costa Rica is reporting two murders in the last week of American tourists!

I have to say I was so irritated by this article. For goodness sake, it could not be easier to find a doctor in Costa Rica. Why didn't the guy just ask his hotel? He left readers with the notion that it's more difficult to get medical help in Costa Rica than in the US and that's just not true.

Not only is medical care easy to find in most areas, but high quality as well. I haven't checked in several years, but health care in Costa Rica at one time was ranked near the top by the World Health Organization.

In Playa Samara, we were surprised to find not only two doctors, but even the owners of our villa had left a note with their recommendation of a doctor who made HOUSE CALLS and spoke ENGLISH, having been to medical school in the US.

Presenting this as though there was no or inferior medical care is simply a poor representation.

HOWEVER, it did seem that the victim did not seek out medical care in a timely manner and neglected his wounds. Please, please seek medical care where ever you are, better to be safer than sorry.

This article also makes Costa Rica sound like a scary place but anyone on a beach alone after midnight could run into trouble...ANYWHERE! I think this traveler didn't have much common sense including seeking medical attention after the mugging.

<This article also makes Costa Rica sound like a scary place but anyone on a beach alone after midnight could run into trouble...ANYWHERE! I think this traveler didn't have much common sense including seeking medical attention after the mugging.> Not trying to be provocative, and I've never been to Costa Rica, but the alacrity with which a number of people on this board have, literally, blamed the victim here is amazing. The author of the article ADMITS that he should have sought medical attention earlier ("So did I go to a doctor? No, and that was my third mistake."), so jumping down his throat for not doing so seems a bit like piling on. And the statement that this could happen on a beach "ANYWHERE!" (see previous poster above) while true in the sense that it COULD happen anywhere, is not really the issue. The question is whether it's LIKELY to happen. I've walked on beaches in Maui at night without a care in the world. Some beaches are more dangerous than others. It's not that Maui beaches are risk free, as in 0% chance of a mugging. Very few things are risk free. The question is whether some beaches are RELATIVELY MORE DANGEROUS. That's what a number of posters on this thread are ignoring. The basic thesis of this article is that Costa Rican beaches are RELATIVELY more dangerous than beaches in certain other places. I don't see why that's such a remarkable proposition. Yes, it is possible to mitigate the risk, but the amount of effort one spends mitigating a safety risk should be proportional to the threat. Which is why I will continue to walk alone on beaches in Maui, and why I would be leery of doing the same in Costa Rica. Makes sense?

Yes, the poster did own up to the mistaken assumptions he made. I think others just wanted to use the forum to share information regarding Costa Rica's good health care--something many people would never dream could be true.

Your points are all valid and probably true (haven't seen the statistics). That said, you go ahead and walk where and when you will, my proposition is that there is a significant risk on almost any beach (or city of size) when out alone in the late night/early morning hours. Qualifying word is significant.

The article remains a good head up or reminder for all.

I agree Jgold. I think some people are missing the mark. There are risks in anything one does in day to day life. But some activities increase the percentage of something bad happening. I think based on the crime statistics, walking alone on a beach in Costa Rica increases the odds of being victimized. Yes, you could get mugged on Maui, but the odds are very low. Being from Hawaii, I know that violent crime against tourists( outside of Oahu) is very low. You have a better chance of being killed in an auto wreck. On a surf trip I did to CR a few years ago, I almost got jacked in Tamarindo. I stopped to ask for directions and that almost turned out to be a bad mistake. Several drugged out young adults approached my car. I picked up on the body language and drove off. That being said, I would love to go back to CR again for a vacation and would recommend the country to others. Just use COMMON SENSE PEOPLE!

Since this has become a passionate debate here, check out todays front page story in AM COSTA RICA. They have results of a survey on how Costa Rican residents feel about security. Crime and personal security is the #1 issue in CR. The murder statistics were unbelievable! 2005 saw over 800 murders! I did a comparison online. The city of Los Angeles, with a population about the same size as the Country of Costa Rica, had a little over 400 murders in 2005. I hope the goverment of CR can get a handle on this problem or the countries reputation will be damaged.

I've never bought the argument that "this can happen anywhere." It can, but it's all relative. I think a vacationer is more vulnerable in Costa Rica than in Hawaii. Costa Rica's level of poverty makes crime a bigger problem. The police might have good intentions, but they are of a lot less help when you've been a victim of a crime than would be the case in Hawaii too. There are places that are so much worse, granted, but no one should assume that Costa Rica will be "just like home."

That's the point I think the writer of the article is trying to make. He admits that he put himself in some situations that seemed harmless at the time, but weren't.

Travelers can afford to be fickle. If a destination gets too much negative publicity, people will flock elsewhere. I think security is one of the top requirements vacationers expect. If they don't get it, or if they merely perceive they aren't going to get it, they're gone, and they tell people they know about the problems, who in turn tell others. That type of publicity spreads far more quickly than the good kind. So it is a problem Costa Rica needs to address for its own sake, and on another level, for the well-being of its own population.

I'll still always sing Costa Rica's praises. I think it's a fantastic travel destination, but no one should ever expect that it will be like Hawaii.

I wasn't "blaming the victim" simply stating he didn't use common sense. I wouldn't walk alone on a beach after midnight anywhere but maybe that's because I'm a female solo traveler so I have to use extra caution everywhere I travel. I do agree the risks are higher in some places and you need to take extra caution. I don't think London is a dangerous place but there is a higher risk of pickpockets so I wear a money belt. In my trip to Costa Rica next Feb. I will use extra caution because the risks are higher for crimes of opportunity. I just don't care for articles like this that make a place seem dangerous because a traveler didn't use good judgement. It scares potential travelers from visiting a place that can be safe if you know the risks, take extra caution and use good judgement. If I was a less experienced traveler this article might scare me into chosing another destination over Costa Rica and trade the amazing beauty, wildlife and culture for some boring beach vacation in a "safer" area. Research the areas you're traveling to, know the risks, use caution and good judgement and you'll be safe.

solotraveler, I agree, same here. I make decisions when traveling based on where I am and common sense. I have to make certain choices when traveling alone - I wouldn't mind maybe going down to a bar and having a few drinks but I know on my own it's also putting a target on my back.

Sadly the problem is increasing across Central America and the Caribbean.

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/new...cle4449372.ece


Last time I was in CR ('06) we discussed crime in general with some Costa Rican friends, they are not happy with the rise in crime either, attributing most to the drift of Nicaraguan and Panamanian criminal elements across a porous border.

The main attraction is the easy pickings from the rich gringos, and a certain laissez faire attitude, sympathy, and occasional corruption amongst the police.

It pays to be vigilant no matter where you are, and Costa Rica is no exception.

Costa Ricans will always tell you that the crime is due to Nicaraguans, Panamanians and Colombians. In reality, most of the crime is home-grown. While the foreign community and tourists make tempting targets, most of the victims of crime are Costa Ricans.

If this story is true, I have some doubts, I feel sorry for the guy. However, walking on the beach at midnight is not safe.....even in the US. I did not feel any less safe in CR than Hawaii (where I used to live) or California (also lived). Like the poster I have been to Africa. However, unlike the poster, I did not feel particularly safe in several areas (Nairobi being one).

The key to any travel, regardless of country, is to travel in numbers & pay attention to your surroundings.

The area the victim was walking is a known area for prostitutes and crack heads. Every town has their "areas to avoid after dark". A simple question to the front desk staff or owner of the hotel where he was staying would have resulted in a warning. Walking in a group would of improved the odds but walking alone……..never. I know this is the first question I ask when staying in Panamanian , Nicaraguan or Costa Rican towns I am unfamiliar with. Where are the areas to avoid?

Something else to consider. The most common reason for murder in Costa Rica is domestic violence. This is very sad, and something that needs to be addressed as a culture. But not something that is going to affect foreign tourists.

Also in the overwhelming majority of all homicides (anywhere), the victim and the perpetrator know each other. Local on local. So take these out of the mix as well.

I am not disparaging the original contributor to this thread. It may not have been wise to be walking alone on the beach late at night. But he was not in a particularly dangerous area.

More often than not, a tourist murder occurs when the victim was in a bad area (drugs, prostitution) and knowingly put themselves in danger. Hang out in any city in the US looking for similar activities, and it would be at least as dangerous. Probably more. If I was in LA, I wouldn't go to Watts looking for crack at 2:00 AM and expect to receive warm and fuzzy treatment. Not that I ever look for crack, but you get my drift.

I don't want to minimize the dangers. But Costa Rica is a much safer destination than most Latin American countries. San Jose is a safer city than most US cities of a similar size. If you use basic common sense, you should be just fine.

Also, just for the record. I have been to Costa Rica at least 100 times, and I have sent at least 10,000 clients there since 1992. I am not bragging or exaggerating, it is just a fact. We talk about personal security with every first time traveler. While there have been a couple of dozen thefts over the last 16 years, not a single client has ever been subject to personal violence. Not a single one.

Hope this helps! Let me know if I can offer any more advice.

Warm Regards,
Pat Hewitt
Travel Professional

I thought people weren't allowed to sell their services on this forum?

Was there an attempt to sell something? I missed it!

Pat Hewitt is very helpful on the forum with his advice and recommendations. He is knowledgeable on all areas of the country and with his frequent visits, knows the latest in terms of just about everything. He has never asked anyone to use his services.

Just a note about the medical care - my daughter had an ear infection which was being treated before we left. When the doctor gave me the prescription it cots $110. to fill.

When we got to Arenal my daughter had a relapse so we went to the farmacia and they gave her the same prescription after asking questions and examining her and guess how much it cost in Costa Rica - $28.

It really makes you wonder - it was THE EXACT same medicine by the exact same company!!!!!

Tells us all something, I think. We've run into the same thing, as I'm sure many others have as well.

We ALWAYS buy a couple of Z-packs when in Mexico or Costa Rica. The 3 tablet kind.