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Consider Nicaragua as an Alternative to CR - A Trip Report

Consider Nicaragua as an Alternative to CR - A Trip Report

Old Apr 20th, 2005, 01:31 PM
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Consider Nicaragua as an Alternative to CR - A Trip Report

I will make this short for now, but anyone who is considering Costa Rica might also want to look at Nicaragua. We haven't been to Costa Rica, but we were supposed to go in January this year. We had planned a week at Lapa Rios on Osa Pennisula. Husband's work got in the way and we had to reschedule our vacation to March. Well in December Lapa Rios had no 6 consecutive days available in the entire month of March, but suggested we look into a new resort managed by the same company, but in Nicaragua: Morgan's Rock. We could not have made a better choice. In the time between December when we booked and March when we went Morgan's Rock has been features in Travel & Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler and Wall Street Journal. It just opened last October. Go to the website www.morgansrock.com. The pictures and description don't do it justice. It is an eco resort you can't expect the Four Seasons, but it was a beautiful, relaxing, fun and amazing place. There are 15 bungalows, each separate, made of wood, stone, canvas and screen but with a private patio and deck, king size bed, bath with double sink and shower. The main building is lovely living and dining area. All construction and furnishings were locally made. The property is also a "finca" (a large farm) and nature reserve so they grow their own food or buy it locally (veggies, fruit, meat, eggs, etc.) It is all nicely inspired by traditional Nicaraguan design and cuisine. The staff is wonderfully friendly and accomodating, from Carla the manager to Juan the activities director to the dining and room staff, everyone. The activities including touring the farm, fishing the traditional Nicaraguan way, horseback riding, kayak, and many more. It is right on an isolated beach, although the bungalows and main building are a few flights of stairs down, you can go to sleep and wake up to the crashing of the waves. There isn't room service because it would attract animals and other pests but they do leave a thermos jug of coffee at your door early in the morning. No phones either. If you need room service and a phone, well you wouldn't be happy and you would spoil it for the rest of us anyway who like it just how it is. We spent our first night in Nicaragua in Granada, as the 2 hour drive seemed too much after arriving on our flight at 8:30 at night. We had a great day there on Palm Sunday soaking in a bit of local culture in that fabulous Colonial town, with cathedral, central square, parks, open air market and good beer. We would also recommend our small hotel their La Casona de los Estrada, 6 rooms in an old colonial home around an open courtyard. Nicaragua is no further than Costa Rica, as it is the country just north of there, and the flight from Miami was only 2 hours. I am happy to answer questions, but please consider Nicaragua and Morgan's Rock in particular if you like off the beaten path but comfort. And yes, it all seemed safe. We had travel agent arranged car service pick us up and return us, so we didn't drive, but we wandered all over Granada that Sunday, watching our pockets of course, but no untowardness was ever observed.
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Old Apr 20th, 2005, 02:55 PM
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Morgan's Rock sounds amazing. When they opened in October, they offered a fabulous 3 night package (basically half price) through Costa Rica Expeditions. It was available for a limited time. We got an e-mail notice about it from CRE, as I'm sure many others did also. Although we were to be in Costa Rica at that time, we arrived one day late to take advantage of the offer. It was for a Wednesday departure on Nature Air. I was so sorry not to have the opportunity, because I would have done it in a heartbeat. It sounded wonderful then, and your testimony just confirms that! Thanks for sharing about Morgan's Rock. I'm sure it is fabulous!
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Old Apr 20th, 2005, 02:58 PM
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Thanks so much for sharing. I've been following their website before they officially opened & have been waiting for a report on it. It looks fabulous and is definitely on my go to list. Did you get to the lake or volcanoes while you were in Nicaragua? How was the drive to MR?
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Old Apr 20th, 2005, 03:18 PM
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I was so excited when I realized this post was about Morgan's Rock!

We picked up a brochure in Feb, since then I have done a little checking. Their website looks wonderful. Sounds very inticing!

Great to get first hand info! Will definately keep this one on my to do list.

Enjoyed your report.
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Old Apr 21st, 2005, 04:37 AM
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WOW !!!!!
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Old Apr 21st, 2005, 09:42 AM
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Yeah, what faithie said! I'm adding Managua to my Fare Watcher ASAP!
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Old Apr 21st, 2005, 03:24 PM
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We did not do volcanos as we only had a week and were more interested on our first time to have a "culture" day, which we did in Granada, especially when the rest of the week was for "nature". The drive to MR is fine. Don't let the first mile, which seems to be shortcut through some "underprivleged" neighborhoods behind the airport discourage you. It quickly becomes a two lane well paved highway really all the way to the turnoff to the resort. After the turnoff it is an interesting drive about 1/2 hour on a dirt road past farms and small homes. All in all about 2-1/2 hours or maybe less. It is interesting to see the small towns on the way, farms, factories, just observe the way of life. The only thing I wish I spoke Spanish. Everyone at the resort speaks very good English but not the car service so we couldn't really ask questions or get an explanation of what we saw. I would definitely like to back to Nicaragua and explore more areas. We met another couple who had been to Leon before Granada, but everyone at the resort was a) like us and came just for the resort, b) were on a combination trip where they came by car service from CR or c) were from Managua (we met a lovely extended family who had recently moved back to Nicaragua from Texas after a number of years away).

P.S. MR was in Conde Nast Traveler the new "hot list" issue in a feature "luxury for less" or something, properties under $200, although that is not exactly correct for MR because it is about $160 per night per person not per room, although it includes all three meals, snacks, and many beverages (coffee, tea, juice, soda, water, local beer and rum drinks but not wine or other liquors). And it has to because there really isn't anywhere nearby to go "out". You can go to the beach town of San Juan del Sur, but the week we were there was "spring break" week and the local amenities looked completely overwhelmed when we can through on our way to the resort so we didn't venture out until it was time to leave (and we didn't miss it).

P.P.S. I forgot to mention the monkeys. The big brown howler monkeys are regular guests, a troupe of 20 or so came through the trees right at the lodge every morning. When we had to change from Lapa Rios to MR, my husband said "all I care about is monkeys and a pool" and we got both everyday. You can also see the cute little white faced capuchin monkeys out in the forest on a hike or horseback ride. There is a third variety that is also native but I forget which and they are seldom seen I am told.
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Old Apr 21st, 2005, 03:27 PM
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P.P.P.S. if you go to Costa Rica, everyone you tell will say "I always wanted to go there!", but if you go to Nicaragua, everyone you tell will say "you went WHERE?" It's kind of fun to see their reaction.
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Old Apr 21st, 2005, 04:18 PM
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Thanks laurie ann for the extra detail! I have a hazy NW CR, Morgan's Rock, Granada scheme in my head for my next-next trip. Thanks again for posting, great to get some first-person info about MR.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2005, 04:41 AM
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" Monkey's and a pool " , I like That !!!! That would suit us just fine , O.K. , back to drooling over the web-site ..... Faith
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Old Apr 22nd, 2005, 08:21 AM
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Message: P.P.P.S. if you go to Costa Rica, everyone you tell will say "I always wanted to go there!", but if you go to Nicaragua, everyone you tell will say "you went WHERE?" It's kind of fun to see their reaction

Good point. Remember that everything is about the reputation of the country and the media. There was a wanna be comunist government in Nicaragua for 11 years, the thiefs in charge destroyed and ransaked the entire country. In the mean time the whole world but the USA was looking at it as the perfect type of government. The famous 9 guys, did nothing but to take revenge for things done by members of the previous government, Somoza's. Ortega, the leader number 1, was always talking about how the poor were better off under his regimen, and now he is one of the richest man in Nicaragua, how are the poor doing, worse, thank you much.
Governments in Costa Rica have always been corrupted like in all Latin America, Ticos are smart and they really know how to hide those news, and only bring to the public the good ones. Remember not long ago, the corrupted presidents were paraded in San Jose, does anyone knows what happened with them and the fortune that they had stolen...
Nicaragua even under the Sandinistas regime has always been a safe country, what you hear about anti imperialism, anti american attitudes is only in the news. No one in Nicaragua will dare to harras an american citizen, specially now that almost every citizen in Nicaragua has a relative or relatives living in the USA. Lifestyle in Managua is up to certain point a copycat of Miami.
There is no downtown in Managua,was never rebuilt after the earthquake in 1972, so it gives you the impression a of a devastated city, but there are shopping centers, movies, excellent restaurants, etc, etc....
DO NOT BE AFRAID TO GO...NO ONE IS GONNA HURT OR HARRASS YOU...
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Old Apr 24th, 2005, 02:37 PM
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Laurie Ann,

Were things very dry and brown when you were there? They mention on their website that a lot of the trees lose their leaves. Just wondering what it looked like.

thanks, David
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Old Apr 25th, 2005, 05:24 AM
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It was dry. But it does not look bad. You could actually see things better in the trees (monkeys, birds, etc.) as some don'thave leaves, or the leaves are dry and sparse. There is oak and similar (dry) and mangrove and palm (not dry). Imagine more like southern Spain than the Carribean. It is not unattractive. I'm sure it looks different from in the rainy season (U.S. summer), or even at the beginning of the dry season (Dec.-Jan.) than it did in March when we were there, but that does not mean "bad" different. Hope you can go!
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Old Apr 26th, 2005, 04:32 PM
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I was waiting in a doctor office today and picked up a copy of Outside Traveler magazine. There was an article about Morgans Rock, so I clicked on Fodors to see if there is info on Nicaragua. Pleasantly surprised to see this post. We have been to CR and stayed at La Paloma, Osa, which was great. Thinking about going back to CR next year but my husband wants to go somewhere we haven't been before (this year we went to Moorea & Bora Bora,WOW, but that belongs on a different board!). Will look into Nicaragua, thanks for the info.
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Old Apr 27th, 2005, 02:39 PM
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To all the experts on this thread, HELP! I've just joined and posted questions re: Nicaragua but I can't seem to get the inquiry into the Nicaragua "topic" area - only on the Latin America forum. I'd appreciate it if someone could explain to me how to do this (can't find it in the Fodor's help area).

I'd also greatly appreciate it if any of you would comment on my posting listed under "Latin America" by Cordon at shortly after 5:30p today.

Many thanks.
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Old Apr 27th, 2005, 04:43 PM
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This place looks amazing!!
Thanks so much for posting this information.. This looks like a place hubby and I would really really enjoy!
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Old Apr 28th, 2005, 05:41 AM
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I answered your other posting. I think though one shortcoming of this forum is that you can't post to a specific country. You can indicate a country when you post, which might help the next person find your post because it is indexed under a country, but the header on the topic is only the more general continent. That is why it is good to make your header specific, for example "Advice for Nicaragua with Family" or "What town in Nicaragua to Stay". This is especially true on the U.S. and Europe forums which gets hundreds of posting on some days. I have always gotten information here I would not have gotten anywhere else, so I like to post trip reports or answer others questions when I can. Enjoy Fodors!
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Old Apr 29th, 2005, 07:06 AM
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Thanks for posting your report. What airline did you use from Miami? Would this be suitable for a family (Ages 65-11) at Christmas? Thanks, Owa
 
Old Apr 30th, 2005, 07:13 AM
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I'm laughing over the post regarding the "wow" factor of going to Nicaragua. Since I planned to spend Christmas week in Nicaragua (Granada for day trips and then Morgan's Rock), the comments from friends have all amounted to "Why?" and "Wow" There is something so enjoyable getting to a place before everyone else does. Although Antaractica is becoming a more popular destination now, we were also asked when we planned a trip there why we would choose such an inhospitable place and the same goes for the outback of Australia north of Darwin. The experiences in these places are enjoyed without the worry of crowds, lines, litter, etc. My family loves cities and culture but we also cherish seeing things through our own eyes before being totally educated about an area. As long as we can establish that the destination is safe, we're game.

Your post was extremely helpful in assuring me of the safety factor and I thank you for taking the time to include it here and to answer my post for Nicaragua help.
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Old Apr 30th, 2005, 01:56 PM
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owa, Nicaragua and MR in particular would be great for an extended family. The living and dining areas of the main building would let you hang out together. The pool is right by the dining room and bar so kids can play and adults too. The activities are suitable really for kids over 8 or so and the staff is very accomodating for everyone. The week we were there was Easter week. There were plenty of kids. The bungalows are spacious and a family could share, Mom and Dad in king bed and two kids on a full sized futon, although all in the same room. Oh, and American Airlines from Miami to Managua. It's only 2 hours flight. You could also consider combining with Costa Rica. You could fly to Liberia, CR and arrange car service, 3 or 4 hours, ask MR as some people we met there had done that. One set of two families had made 9 days of Peace Lodge (CR), MR and then 4 Seasons (CR). I think they flew direct NY to San Jose CR or to Liberia.
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