eveningcrane

Just recently returned from a couple of weeks in Quito at language school and spent one weekend at Bellavista, in the cloud forest near Mindo. I have stayed here twice before, always on the 2nd floor of the dome in a room with a private bath. This time I was in a room on the third floor with a shared bath. The third floor is set up mostly dormitory style but there are two very small, slant roofed rooms on that floor also. I was in one of them, sharing the bath with the other closet style room and the dormitory type beds (fortunately but no one was staying in the dormitory section) There was however another person in the tiny private room.

When I got there I inquired about Gabriel - a truly excellent bird guide and was informed that he was on vacation - they have a 21 day on 11 day off schedule. So I inquired about the best bird guide currnetly on site and it was Iris However Richard, the owner, had just booked her to go the following morning with this english couple to the Bosque de Paz (about an hour away) to see the cock of the rock. I asked if this was the only thing of interest there or was it a good site in general. Richard assured me it was a good site for many types of birds and since it was 600 meters lower they had a different clientel of bird. He was sure the couple would be happy if I joined them since the were a little chuffed at the price and it would be cheaper with three, so I signed onvfor the excursion the next morning.

That afternoon I went out on a walk with a group led by George but it was raining so we didnīt see much in the afternoon, but since it is the rainy season, Bellavista is much greener and there were numerous flowers icluding some orchids in bloom. (For the first time I used boots at Bellavista and I really needed them)

The next morning we had to get up at 4 am to leave by 4:15 am to arrive by 5:30 at the Bosque del Paz. We were met by Angel Paz, the owner and guide at this reserve.

We started walking the paths in the dark and reached the first blind at dawn. There were five male cocks of the rock that were very active discussing who was top cock of the rock. The blind afforded excellent views of the birds. What a racket! While watching them a golden headed quetzal (male) landed next to the blind - what a spectacularly beautiful bird.

Then we headed to the next blind where we watched a pair of emerald toucanets feed on fruit. Again the blind offered excellent viewing opportunities.

Now the man who owns this land has developed a friendship with some antpittas - antpittas are very shy ground dwelling birds frequently heard but very rarely seen - very timid and they spend their lives in the underbrush. Well Angel Paz had cultivated their trust and with a little food (appeared to be some fresh chopped worms) and some excellent bird calls he could coax the giant antpitta out into the open on the trail, very close to us. Simply amazing. Her name was Mary.

Then we went ot see Winny (winifred) who is a yellow breasted antpitta and then we went to visit Suzy who is a moustached antpitta. Oh we also saw a female trogan and a female golden headed quetzal during our stroll as well as many tangers and flycatchers.

Angel also had some hummingbird feeders that had a marvelous assortment of hummingbirds, including the empress brilliant. His feeders had a number of types of hummingbirds we hadn't seen up at Bellavista.

Around 11 we arrived back at the start and Angels wife a had cooked us breakfast - cheese empanadas and a type of chicken filled platano hush puppy excellent. There were two types of swallows buzzing around and we saw a pair of swallow tailed kites - one perched and one flying - magnificent.

The hikes through this bosque probablly would be enjoyed by non birders simply for the flowers and ferns and the bubbling brooks. We got back to bellavista just in time for lunch. (1:00pm) and at 3:00pm I had to leave to go back to quito. .

Bill_H

Don't wish to hijack your thread but rather to complement it with some photos ... my friend Janet was recently at Bellavista photographing birds (in the rain, rain, rain) and posted some superb images here:

http://www.jczinn.com/Central%20and%...a/saindex.html

She's also a Fodorite but kinda shy so I thought I'd post this link for her

Bill

jczinn

hey, thank you Bill for posting a link to my photos This post just happened to catch my eye, and Bill, wow I was surprised to see your post! I can certainly concur with everything eveningcrane posted, Bellavista and the Angel Paz reserve are very special places, well worth a visit for birders, photographers, and anyone who wants a really wonderful experience in the forests of Ecuador. I think Eveningcrane saw even more than we did at Bosque de Paz...we didn't see the Emerald Toucanets or the Golden-headed Quetzal (not there, although we did see it elsewhere on our trip.)

Percy

Thanks for the report eveningcrane
and
Bill, Thank you for those lovely pictures...

I was in Bellavista so I can appreciate the bird pictures,they are terrific .

Bill_H ,I also enjoyed all your African pictures and have followed your Safari's via your pictures.

Percy

eveningcrane

Hi

Thanks for posting the pictures. Amazing hummingbird pictures and love the ones of the antpittas. Next year I will probably return to Ecuador and most likely will head back to Bellavista. Such beautiful countryside and yet so uncrowded.

Pamela

glover

oooooh! Excited to see your message and the other pictures - because we're planning to go to a lodge in that area in July - can you say a bit, evening crane, about why you chose this one rather than some of the others in the cloudforest area?

Thanks!

eveningcrane

Hi Glover

The first time I went to Bellavista it was as part of my two weeks at language school. The school offers the option of one week of classes at Bellavista and since I wasn't sure that I wanted two weeks in the city, I opted for the week in the cloud forest.

That week, every morning before breakfast, I went out birding (usually with Gabriel), then had breakfast, followed by four hours of spanish classes, then lunch and then at 3:30 went out birding/hiking again. One day I went for a morning horseback ride and did my classes in the afternoon, missing the afternoon hike.

I really enjoyed staying in the dome (but I think next time I'll stay in the trailhead house or the bamboo house - I'm over the dome) and I really liked the food. The birding was excellent and Gabriel was a fantastic guide.

So to answer your question, there was no real thought process in choosing Bellavista - I just stumbled into it due to my choice of schools. I liked it enough to return with my DH the next year (again staying in the dome). Gabriel was on break but we went out birding with Iris and she was very good also.

This time, I was back at language school once again and just wanted a one night weekend getaway. Bellavista has reasonably priced transportation available from Quito to their lodge, so it was an easy choice (again staying in the dome)

I did investigate Tandayapa Bird Lodge and would love to go there - but - you need to reserve guiding service in advance and it is pricey - especially for a solo traveler. At Bellavista, I was able to arrive, ascertain that a couple had booked an excursion to Bosque de Paz and join them - at a reasonable cost for all. I wouldn't have had that flexibility at Tandayapa Bird Lodge and I truly could not afford the solo traveler cost.

The next weekend I thought of going to Mindo for the weekend but an incipient cold kept me from making plans. All the people I know who have been to Mindo really have had good things to say about it. Perhaps I'll spend a weekend there next time.

Where are you staying? Where else are you going in Ecuador? Galapagos?

Pamela