birding/lodging advice needed
 

We are looking at 2+ weeks for 2nd trip to Costa Rica. Bosque de Paz (3 or 4 nights?), Rancho Naturalista (3 or 4 nights?), Trogon Lodge 3 nights, and returning to Monteverde 3 nights. Last time we stayed at El Establo. Liked it fine but are looking at Hotel El Sapo Dorado. I have read these are good birding spots. Just mostly wondering about length of time at each and about the accommodations themselves. Are there others that are better? We will need one night on each end for travel arrangements too. Thinking of Hotel Bougainvillea. We would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

I can only speak to El Sapo Dorado. I loved it there. Nice, clean accomodations. Nice little porch to sit on and enjoy the view. We could see the Gulf of Nicoya right from our room. To get into town you have a 15 minute walk. On the way back to the hotel you have to go up a steep hill through town which is a pain, and then another hill back up to the hotel. Bring a flashlight at night. It gets PITCH black.

Also, it was out of the dusty main street in Monteverde so it wasn't noisy. Thumbs up for The Golden Toad.

I love Trogon and birding is good there. We booked Bosque de Paz for January -- haven't been yet but it should be great. Birding at Nicuesa Lodge in Golfito was fabulous -- scarlet macaws, owls, trogons, bell birds, etc.

Sandy

Those are great spots. Rancho has some new lodgings since our last visit. Food is good and 'porch birding' is wonderful.
We have not been to Bosque de Paz but hear it is also good, with interesting mammals as well.

Savegre Lodge - just down the road from Trogon Lodge- is a favourite of ours. Great birds but somewhat limited diversity at that altitude.

I would say 3 or 4 nights at Rancho, no more than 3 at Bosque de Paz and 2 or maximum 3 at Trogon would suffice.

Curious about where you visited on your previous trip. You have a lot of mid to upper Caribbean slope locations but nothing in the Caribbean lowlands or Pacific lowlands.

cheers

Jerry

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far. Also are looking at Savegre Mountain Lodge vs. Trogan. We hear the guides there are very good. Is that the property you are referring to Jerry? There seems to be 3 with very similar names, with hotel and rio in the name.

We visited Osa last time and loved it. But considering that it is a bit more difficult to get there, we picked these other areas. We don't care for the beach at all and also like cooler temperatures, as these areas seem to have. Someday we do want to do the turtle thing - but that will be another trip I think. Also, went to Arenal and San Jose. We have been only one day in Carrera too on another occasion (from a cruise).

Monteverde was really our favorite. I know some like it some don't. We have gotten so hooked on birding, that is the primary reason for selecting these areas. If you know somewhere else, please advise. We just might make a longer or different locale trip out of this. We are in the early stages and are pretty flexible. We quite liked going in May last time and so are thinking of then again. We were very lucky on bird sightings - Quetzals, bell birds, many unusual and special birds.

We thought we needed more time at Bosque because we want to go to Paos from there. It looked like they had some other diversions. We have rafted alot and would do it if there was nothing else, but it is not a priorty. Would rather ride horses. We could add another location I suppose, but don't like moving around too terribly much, when I could be birding!

Looking more at their websites - Rancho has horseback riding, but Bosque has several preserves near by.

When we stayed at Rancho the birding was pretty intensive. We saw a lot of great birds. The hummingbirds were amazing but then....they always are. The snowcaps were unbelievable. We stayed in a lovely room. It was not where you go to look at the birds in the morning but it was upstairs and had its own balcony and bath. 3-4 nights is probably enough if you think you might want a day to get out and do something other than bird.

Hubby and I think Trogon was the prettier of the two places in San Gerardo de dota but we also really enjoyed the Savegre Lodge for the people as well as the birds. The Chacon family is very nice. We found the birds somewhat limited as well. It does seem to be the best place in CR to see the Quetzals. We were there in Feb and went to a private finca where they have planted avocado trees for them and they were flying overhead when we got out of the car. We sat for several hours just watching them after a very short walk from the parking lot. 2 maybe 3 nights is enough.

One of our favorite places to bird is on the caribbean slope. We love the Sarapiqui area. La Selva is in that area and we have spent a lot of time there. We like La Quinta de Sarapiqui because the people are friendly and the food very good. The birding on the property is not so great. We usually end up at La Selva or on one of the many little back roads in the area. We use a driver who very much enjoys the birds as well and he has friends in that area where we can go. We leave our scope with him to use when we aren't down there. Much easier than hauling it down all the time. Another place that we have stayed is Selva Verde. They have a bonus of having their own rainforest to wander around in.

You say you were down on the Osa. Did you get to Bosque del Rio Tigre? Abraham grew up in that area and knows his birds.

For those going to Bosque de Paz, could you tell me how you're planning to travel there? I'm planning to travel there in March and got prices for private transfers for them: $80 from SJ to Bosque, and then $125 from Bosque to Peace Lodge (this one seemed a bit steep as they are somewhat close by to one another)

Anyone have ideas on cheaper transportation options which don't involve renting a car?

Yes, Savegre Lodge [Chacon's] is the place we have stayed at San Gerardo de Dota. When you are staying in the area try to arrange someone to take you [or go yourselves...] up to the Paramo. There is a road up to a communications tower that gets you into some real high-altitude birds like Timberline Wren and Volcano Junco.

Suzie2 mentioned the La Selva area. The last half mile of road into the refuge office area and the lawns /edges around the office can be amazing very early in the day. Our last visit we had Tiny Hawk, Nicaraguan Seed-finch and Yellow-tailed Oriole just on the entrance road......

Selve Verde Lodge also has excellent birding on the grounds, including Fasciated Tiger Heron and Sunbittern.

The Carara area has a great mix of dry forest and moist forest birds as well as good estuary birding for waders and shorebirds.

If you would like any specifics I will be happy to try and help.

Jerry

Jerry,

I have been trying to talk my husband into visiting this place; http://www.bosquedeltolomuco.com/location.html

Have you heard anything on it?

We are looking at property just south of San Isidro near Santa Elena along the edge of a proposed biological corridor. Birds are great and it is up the road a couple of miles from the Skutch place. If all goes well you may have a new place to bird! We will be building a guest cabin if all goes well and everything is as it seems. It is a small residential area so we can't have a business but you will be welcome any time even if we aren't there.

Well thanks to the posters here, we are leaning a bit more toward Chacon's place. We have also received an email back from Costa Rica Gateway saying how good the guides are there. Has anyone used them for your trips, done it independently or used another tour company.? Yes Jerry, would much appreciate specifics. Also wondering about adding Selva Verde?? Carrara sounds interesting too. I am sure this will not be our last trip to CR. Just trying to make the best choices for this one.

We stayed at La Paloma in Osa. At that time we just "liked" birds. That was just before total addiction set it. Really, I blame this wonderful guide we had in Monteverde - I really appreciate a good bird guide and that is why maybe we should go to Savegre Lodge. This discussion has been wonderful - please keep it going.

We used Costa Rica Gateway for our whole trip one year. They did a fine job arranging everything. We designed our own trip which included Rancho and they made all of the arrangements for us including transportation. These days we use a private driver/guide who is also a tour agent who can arrange flights, hotels, and anything else you need. He loves to get out and look for birds and more than once has stopped dead in the middle of the street to point a good one out. He has spent hours and hours with us birdwatching and has a good eye for them. He is a wiz at getting a spotting scope on them and taking pictures through it.

La Selva is a beautiful place. My father in law was on the board of directors for many years so we are a little partial. He has been retired for several years now but my husband and I are still members of the OTS. Saw my first Puff bird and snowy cotinga there. First peccary too! Tirimbina is in that general area as well and we saw some great birds just walking around the lodge at the Center for Neotropical Studies where you park. We didn't have time to go into Tirimbina itself so just walked around the center. There are burial grounds that you can visit as well nearby.

If you do decide to stay at Selva Verde do ask for a room away from the road. It can be noisy at night.

If you should decide to go to Carara, we stayed at Villas Lapas and saw some great birds there. Pale Billed Woodpeckers, a pygmy owl was in a hole in a tree right in front of our room, a Fasciated Tiger Heron was wading around in the stream by the restaurant and we did see macaws by the reserve and lots of orange collared manakins in the reserve.

It is always fun to hear about people who have been bitten by the birding bug. Costa Rica is certainly a wonderful place to see and learn about them. My husband spent a lot of time with his father in South America collecting bird specimens for the Smithsonian and now prefers to just sit back and watch them. I knew about 3 birds when I met him. He opened up a whole new world for me.

If you should ever consider Tikal for birding you will be amazed. We saw 83 species in one day. Ran into another birder who saw over 100. We have the name of a guide if you do. He grew up in the park and speaks very good english.

We would like to go to Tikal sometime. We did think about a different country, but opted for CR again this time. We have been to South America several times too. We kept seeing just a quick look at the behind of a peccary running away until last year in Peru. We happened to be on a mammal clay lek platform when over 100 of them showed up. Amazing! It was actually a bit scary - but way fun. And it was my birthday. A big one ending in 0 too.

Yes, if you wouldn't mind sharing your Tikal and CR guide. That would be great. It sounds like you prefer him over Costa Rica Gateway. That is the way our Monteverde guide was. We even managed a movie thru the spotting scope of the bellbird.

I am thinking more and more about adding another location or possibly changing one. Thanks again!

My wife and I recently returned from a 30 day birding/wildlife trip to Costa Rica. It was our 2nd trip(we did a 2 week stint last June. Naturalista is a bit pricy but really caters to the birder. Great birds and excellent guides included with fantastic food. We really enjoyed Monteverde. Hired a guide (Adrian)who was fantastic. Saw great birds. We have stayed at Savagre and Trogon Lodge. We prefer the lodging at Trogon and arrange birding at Savagre. Marino Chacon was great. Also saw great birds on the Osa with Abraham Gallo at Bosque del Rio Tigre. Great people and the greatest variety of birds on our trip.
Enjoy!!

Adamfam, How did you like Bosque del Rio Tigre? We love staying there in the little cabin. We had a kinkajoo climbing around the tree right in front of the cabin one night. Abraham is a great bird guide and a great cook! I love his ginger tea.

connette,
Gateway would do a good job on your trip. We were very happy with what they did for us. There are very good guides at all of the places you are thinking about so you really just need transportation.

That said....we are partial to Orlando. Over the years we have become very good friends. We even stay with him and his family on some of our trips. He does love to go out birding so I am sure he would be happy to hire on as a driver/guide for you and as I mentioned he is a licensed tour agent and can make any reservations you need. He worked for a couple of top tour companies before going out on his own so he knows how to take care of his customers very well. Going the route of having a private guide/driver isn't for everyone so you choose whichever way is best for you. His contact in case is [email protected]

Here is an update. Thanks again to everyone for helping out with our plans. Hotel Bougainvillea (1 nt),
Bosque de Paz (3 nights), Rancho Naturalista (4 nights - possibly go to Irazu volcano), Savegre Lodge 3 nights, and Hotel El Sapo Dorado 3 nights.

Then, still looking for help. 2 more nights at Peace Lodge or Hotel Vista del Valle. Want to visit Paos, La Paz, butterflies and hummingbirds, etc.

So, what do you think about this? More advice appreciated. Thanks.

Great itinerary. For hummingbirds -if your can afford it definitely Peace Lodge. LOADS of great birds there and at a spot our two nearby.

Actually Rancho, Savegre and La Paz all have excellent hummingbirds with plenty of chances to study and photograph them at close range.

I will elaborate later,

cheers

Jerry

You can almost have your cake and eat it too! Vista del Valle is a great place to stay and visit Doka coffee, Poas and La Paz waterfall gardens from. It is also a very pretty place.

The biggest advantage to staying at Peace Lodge is being able to get out and walk around during non tourist hours. It is really beautiful early morning and late afternoon there.

Vista del Valle also has beautiful trails and nice activities right there at the lodge.

It is a win win situation. Both are very nice places. The big question might be...do you want a private jacuzzi or do you mind sharing? Tough decision but someones got to do it ;-). Either one would be a wonderful finish to your vacation. Vista del Valle is closer to the airport if that makes a difference.

As long as you are going to try to get out for a day the 4 nights at Rancho will probably be okay. You could combine the Irazu tour with Lankester gardens or just head over to the beautiful Orosi Valley.

Lankester Gardens, as Suzie2 mentioned, is not terribly far from Rancho and not only has beautiful gardens but good birding. My memory is a bit fadsd [to say the least.....]but there is one little Ground Sparrow that's fairly easy there and tough elsewhere. They don't open a early as birders would prefer, it is a good spot -including some wetlands in a fairly 'natural' state that can be good.
Another good spot is CATIE , the agricultural university that can have good waterbirds. Rancho folks could advise you if access is a problem there now.
Down in the Tuis valley along the river almost directly below Rancho there are several good birds that are tough at Rancho Naturalista itself.

Another possibility a bit further afield is Tapanti National Park. It can be excellent for tanagers especially.

Just trying to think of a few lower altitute spots for some different species.......

cheers

Jerry [envious in Toronto......]