Best restaurants in Buenos Aires?
 

We're looking for upscale casual places, preferably with modern decor.

What are your favorites?

topping for AV Rooster

Thank you,cmcfong, but this subject has been covered many times, both here and on tripadvisor.com and only a little research would unearth many answers, so.....

Try Cluny in Palermo Soho. Fabulous food and very sexy decor.

Mmm... upscale casual and modern decor...

parrilla - Miranda in Palermo viejo
italian - Filo in Retiro

are both favorites for me (you can check their reviews on my site at www.saltshaker.net)

Our best experience in 10 nights of eating in Buenos Aires and Rio was in BA's "Cabana Las Lilas." If you accept that it is not going to be as good as a $75 American steakhouse, but much better than a $25 American steakhouse, you will find it to be an enjoyable experience. I think the steak dishes were about $15 a piece, and a decent Malbec was about $15 (our favorite value is Trumpeter, but you can try any wine from Family Rutini and Catena). As with all upscale restaurants in BA, just be sure not to start eating the first dish they place in front of you -- the breads and other appetizers are not all free; don't be ashamed to ask; though, you may find them to be worth the cost. It is definitely more expensive than some of the other BA restaurants, but it provided us with the best dining experience in South America (again, we were there for only 10 days, so I do not profess this to be the best place).

Also, Milion or Millon -- I don't remember the exact name -- is an upscale restaurant situated in a mansion with a very attractive crowd that lingers for late-night drinks. This isn't in the tourist guidebooks, which may explain why it had the best "scene" of any restaurant or club we went to.

Well, I just got back a week ago from 11 days on my own in BA. Still considering writing a mini report, but in the meantime here are some thoughts on restaurants I went to...

Cabana Las Lilas - I truly enjoyed the meal I had here. Extremely tender 'ojo de bife' ( I think ), a bottle of Dona Paula Malbec for $15, good service despite the stares as I sat alone at a table for 4 eating just about everything that was placed in front of me. I'm not a steak person per se, but I've eaten at a few of the top-end meat oriented joints in NYC and I would definitely say that the steak I had at CdL was comparable, if not better than most (ok, maybe not Peter Luger.) Also, this was the most tender, flavorful cut of meat I had during my stay in BA.

Parilla 1880 - I would highly recommend this spot in San Telmo for tasty food at good prices. After my newfound companion and I each ordered a steak, the waiter shook his head saying that it would be too much food along with the salad and gnocci we intended to share; thank goodness for his honesty. One ojo de bife at this place is cut into 2 and is quite enough. The "ensalada completa" was indeed just that, the gnocci was ok, and the Stella Artois was a tallboy served in a champagne bucket. Homey decor, high celings.

Oviedo - very good Spanish food; fish and seafood are the specialties here. I had oysters from Patagonia which I have to admit were not my favorite, but at $1.00 USD each, who could complain? The deliciously creamy Panna cotta with dried cherries for dessert was truly a highlight. Fairly uninteresting decor though.

Sucre - really enjoyed the meal I had here. Excellent ceviche - and yes, I'm particular about ceviches because here in NYC most places put far too much vinegar in the marinade. This one had coconut milk, papaya, mango as well as fish and was truly delish. Grilled pork with roasted potatoes and tomato confit followed, and did not disappoint. I told the waitress I wanted to take the leftovers for my "dog", and she said she understood because she had a dog too :). Service was a tad slow, but it was a Friday. Modern space.

Those are the highlights of the places I went to. Some disappointments were:
El Obrero, Olsen (although I'd go there again to try different dishes), La Brigada.

Had lunch at Bar Uriarte. Great sunny, airy, trendy space. Pizzas were ok, but were even better when heated up a few days later.

Volta on Santa Fe for ice cream, coffee and pastries. Sleek, modern look.

Persicco (4 locations) for far too many choices of ice cream.

Cluny - great space. I only had coffee and scones there (served between 4 and 7 if I remember correctly). Would definitely go back.

Milion is indeed in guidebooks (TimeOut BA and Lonely Planet at least). I only had drinks here, but would recommend it. Lots of different tongues being spoken, nice atmosphere.

Hope this helps.

Personally, I find the steak in ARgentina superior to any American steakhouse regardless of cost. But this is a matter of taste. Argy steaks are cut from grass fed range (Pampas) beef, in contrast to the feed lot grain fed, hormone hyped US beef. The difference is the difference between a hothouse tomato and one ripened in the sun and grown with natural manure fertilizer....Argy beef might be slightly more chewy, but it is more flavorful imo....

About steakhouses in Buenos Aires....I find Cabana las Lilas overpriced and undervalued....There are better choices imo...check out guiaoleo.com.ar for a ranking of Parrillas by locals....

Oviedo and Sucre and 1880 Parrilla are all on my list of favorites! Excellent choices.....

A couple of other options....La Parrollacia for Italian (several branches), Piola for Pizza (0n Libertad between Marcelo T de Alvear and Santa Fe).

All-in-all, it is very difficult to find a bad meal in Argentina.....

About wines: Trumpeter is indeed a good value, but for my money, I vote for Luigi Bosca DOC Malbec among low-midpriced offerings and Achavel Ferrar (not sure of spelling) for pricier offerings.....

A correction...www.guiaoleo.com.ar

Another note: Do the link to Saltshaker's site. He knows his way around a good meal, and has identified many off the toursit trail restaurants that are well worth exploring!

aww shucks.

even if I don't like Oviedo?

SaltShaker, great site. I enjoyed the read. I will be checking back before my trip to Argentina in November. Thanks for all the helpful information.

Matisse, cant wait to read your trip report about BA, loved the one you did on Turkey!!!!

Again you travelled alone?? Impressive!

I was glad to hear someone else say that there steak experience wasn't as high end as I have heard.

The meat is good, but the beef in the states is just as good.

We ate at La Brigada - my steak was good, but my husband's was not.

We loved Olsen - go for brunch! It was fantastic and a gorgeous spot.

Milion also gets high marks from us - what a beautiful place.

Maybe it's the Malbec I drink with my steak in Argentina, but I find no comparison between the steak in Atlanta and the steak in Buenos Aires.....Like the difference between a hot house tomato and one sun ripened in the garden....

You have no idea how much better that makes me feel, drdawggy. I thought maybe it was just me and was feeling pretty down that I wasn't having the end all be all experience of Argentinian beef.

But the wine! Oh the wine!

Just another restaurant suggestion. We adored Juana M. It was cozy, candlelit and the steaks were really really good.

The meat in the US is all pumped full of hormones, while making it bigger, sucks out the taste. My wife, an argentinian, has been living in the states for 10 years. It is only in the last 4-5 years that she can get herself to eat US steak. She says they either taste bland or rotten and filled with fat. The Argentinian steaks, while being a bit chewier, have a distinct organic taste that is remarkable. Also if the hormones are making the US cows fatter, imagine what they are doing to the consumers. Enough said.

I'm amazed to hear anyone from the US state that the beef in the US is as good as that in Argentina! We certainly didn't find that to be the case. We marveled at the difference and the superiority in Buenos Aires. Better flavor, little or no fat or gristle and wonderful texture. Even a hamberguesa we had in Puerto Iguazu was better than any cheeseburger we've had in the states.

Incidentally, AT2, I think you misinterpreted avrooster's post when he stated he found no comparison between the beef here and there, I'm sure he meant that US beef couldn't compare to that in Argentina. I for one heartily agree, Malbec or no Malbec (but with Malbec is obviously superior)!

Thank you Giovanna, but I don´t remember having said such a thing (with which I agree absolutely) on this thread.

Perhaps you meant top top expert drdawggy?

No boos or hisses, please, but I am a vegetarian. Any recommendations for me, please?

Very good salad bars in many restaurants, including the one where we have dinner after my "The REAL Buenos Aires" tour.

But boooooooooo, anyway! LOL!!!

OH NO. Even a boo from you doesn't discourage me. I remain a fan.

My apologies avrooster, it was indeed dr.dawggy's comments I referred to. I guess sometimes my eyes cross when reading through these threads. Sorry for the mistake!

There are some very good vegetarian options in BA, even if they're not the most common of restaurants. Plus, if you don't mind being surrounded by omnivores and carnivores, most restaurants offer some kind of vegetarian options - like pastas, salads, and even sojas milanesas (breaded tofu "cutlets"). I've started reviewing a few of the vegetarian options on my site, saltshaker.net, and more will be added as I get to them and try them out!

I have you bookmarked, Dan. Great site.

Giovana,

AV does not drink wine, so he has no idea what he is missing....as for me, I find both the steak and the Malbec special in Argentina!

Some good answers here. We were down in BA in November 04 and love it. The food and wine were great. We're planning on going again in less than two week and we are including Mendoza this time.


Now for our report. We had read about Cabana Las Lilas and it was the first place we went. It was good and we really enjoyed the atmosphere, but there are so many good restaurants in Argentina. It's relatively expensive for BA. We spent about $80USD while most places were about $30 USD for the same thing.

We also went to 1880 on Sunday during the antiques fair. Very good food, fun atmosphere, and great wine on their wine list.

La Brigada (San Telmo). This was an outstanding parilla (steak house). It is a small family run steak house that was very reasonably priced. The lomo here with salad was 16 pesos. We had Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet 2001 for 48 pesos and it was terrific. We knew we were in for a treat when the waiter brought our steaks and cut them with a spoon to make sure they were done correctly. Argentine beef is very tasty. Jackie is very fussy about beef and will cut away any (no matter how small) standing fat. She cut nothing away at any of the restaurants. I would highly recommend this restaurant.

La Caballeriza. Located next to Cabanas Los Lilas, this was a place with great food and a nice atmosphere. We order Salentein 2002 Cabernet (one I had found as a recommended wine and one we brought back with us). La Caballeriza is a very nice restaurant with a lovely atmosphere for lunch or dinner. Again I highly recommend it.

We made the shift from eating our big meal at lunch rather than dinner on our second day. We were over by Teatro Colon and were hungry. We ate at Tribunales Plaza (Talcahuano 610). We had a; a quarter chicken, a tenderloin steak (very good) and a demi bottle of Norten Cabernet all for 28 pesos. Pretty good food and you get free internet access too. Tribunales is a very bright and nice place to eat.

One day we were seeking a restroom and found a nice restaurant Capriattis at Corrientes 1302. The bathroom was very clean and to make us feel okay about using it we had a cappuccino and a piece of cake. The pastries were very good and again very cheap. It was about 9 pesos for both the cappuccino and the pastry.

Hope this helps.

dr.dawggy:

We enjoyed the Malbec on our recent visit and I have been looking for it now that we are home. I found a bottle of La Boca Malbec last weekend while shopping. It has a stylized label with Los Caminitos on it. We can only hope it tastes as good as it looks. LOL Chilean wines are plentiful here, but I will continue to search for the Argentine wine. We hope to visit Mendoza and some wineries on our next trip to Argentina.

Giovanna,

I cannot find good Malbec in my area, but there are several on-line sources.

www.winezap.com is a search engine for on-line purchases....I have bought several times from www.capitalwine.com. They have a good selection of Malbecs available for reasonable prices ( Nieto Senentier, Alamos, Acheval Ferrer, etc). The cost for shipping is partially offset by not paying local taxes....
Hope this helps.

ttt for US board poster

Bar 6 for breakfast

Kayoko for sushi and authentic Japanese food (owner and chef had 2 restaurants in Japan for 25 years).

Cala or Romario for empanadas and beer.

Meridian for almond-crusted codfish (to die for).

Bereber for Morroccan food and Green Bamboo for Thai food.

Armenian Society and Syrian Society for lots of good quality middle-eastern cuisine. I'm sure I'll think of more later.

Kaycee, Nice list!

Where is Meridian? In case I get a craving for codfish

Drdawggy, are you in Argentina now?

Doc Holliday is coming to our wild town in May, I believe.

Thank you, AVROOSTER.

topping for tina

We were in Buenos Aires for a week at the end of February - beginning of March. Our absolute favorite restaurant was Casa Cruz on Uriarte (Palermo Soho) -- it was one of the top meals we've had anywhere in the world and very interesting to watch the Portenos glitterati. We also loved Sirop (Vincente Lopez in Recoleta), La Parrollacia (Puerto Madero) and ate at Bar Uriarte (Uriarate in Palermo Soho) for lunch twice and really enjoyed it. We tried to go to La Brigada for lunch one day during the week while we were browsing the antique shops, but got tired of waiting after 30 minutes and decided it was way too much food for us at lunch. We found a delightful place (unfortuantely, I can't remember the name) very close to Plaza Dorrego that had terrific grilled provoleta and good salads, and, of course, a nice Argentinian red wine.

Agentinian beef is the BEST!!!!!!
Try the restaurants in the "Puerto Madero" area. They are a little expensive but oh.... my God!!!!!