Costa Rica Trip Report

Old Aug 22nd, 2009, 03:46 PM
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Costa Rica Trip Report

I used Fodor’s site extensively in planning our first trip to Costa Rica; therefore, I thought it would be fitting to share our travel experience.

We were in Costa Rica from Aug 7, 2009 through Aug 13, 2009. Since my husband and I (in our late 30’s to early 40’s) only had 6 nights & 7 days, we chose to spend most of our time in the Arenal area. We spent 4 nights at the Lost Iguana Resort and 2 nights at Xandari Resort & Spa in Alajuela. I’ll break out our trip down into categories: driver/guide, Lost Iguana Resort, activities in Arenal, and Xandari Resort.

<b>Driver/guide:</b>
We selected our driver, Leo Rodriguez, based on recommendations on the Fodor site. He was prompt in replying to our emails and offered suggestions of various activities throughout our trip. He was prompt in picking us up at the airport and drove us to Lost Iguana Resort. Along the way, he gave us an introduction to Costa Rica, the history, culture, people, food, etc. He was a very good driver and we felt safe in his van. It was a 2008 Nissan air-conditioned van and it was clean and comfortable. I almost always get car sick, but didn’t have any problems in his van. He even stopped at a market in La Fortuna on our way to Lost Iguana so we could stock up on some water, beer, and snacks.

Based on our conversation with Leo en route, we found out that he and some friends had started their own company offering transportation and nature tour services. We hired him as a guide for one day in Arenal. Leo took us to the La Fortuna waterfall, hiked in the Arenal Volcano National Park, and ate casados at a soda. He was constantly on the look-out for animals/birds and would point out things of interest to us on our hikes. We did see some Howler monkeys, a Coati, some birds (can’t remember the names) that day with Leo.

Leo also transported us from Lost Iguana Resort to Xandari Resort in Alajuela. Originally, we were only going to make a stop at Sarchi for some shopping. But Leo made some extra stops along the way and was very accommodating to our needs. He even took us to Zarcero to see this awesome park where the bushes were trimmed and shaped into animals, faces and different designs. We also stopped to eat casados at a roadside soda. Leo made another stop in Grecia to show us the beautiful church constructed of metal, before heading to Sarchi for some shopping. We took forever shopping for souvenirs for family and friends and he waited patiently outside for us. He never rushed us even though it was getting late. We finally made our last stop at a market to buy some Cacique and Lizano sauce to bring home before arriving at Xandari. It was a pretty long day from 10 am to almost 5 pm.

Overall, we were very happy that we selected Leo. Leo was personable and knowledgeable about his country. So thanks to the people on this site who recommended his services. We would second that and also recommend him as a guide as well. We know we will be back to Costa Rica again and will not hesitate to hire Leo as a driver and guide. In case anyone is interested, Leo can be contacted via email at [email protected] or tel no. (506) 8378-0001.

<b>Lost Iguana Resort:</b>
Thanks to volcanogirl for recommending Lost Iguana Resort. We really enjoyed staying at Lost Iguana even though it is far from La Fortuna town. We had rain everyday so everything was so lush and beautiful. The resort does not offer a shuttle to town. From talking to another guest, they were told that they can catch the employee van to town and maybe get a ride back if the timing works. We didn’t bother going into town other than when we were with our driver/guide. We had other activities lined up so we used the tour company’s transportation services.

We stayed in luxury suite (room 6) and had a great view of the volcano. However, there was always cloud cover so never got to see the entire volcano. We did see lava on our second night for a brief 5 minutes, but it was awesome. The room had a TV but we never used it. There was weather-stripping on the french doors leading out to the balcony so bugs weren’t supposed to get in from underneath the doors. Somehow we still got bugs in the room, but it was to be expected considering the environment. Not a big deal. I just had to remember to shake out my shoes before putting them on and also shake out the luggage before packing. I don’t know if it was because of the rain we had everyday, our room felt damp (i.e. clammy sheets). So we blasted the A/C to dry out the room and it seemed to help. We tried to use the jacuzzi one night but it emitted a sulfur-like smell when the jets were turned on. Not sure why or what the cause was, but I didn’t want to use it.

The only disturbance during our stay was people below us who spoke loudly and had their TV on so loud that we could hear it word for word while enjoying our balcony at night. They also kept slamming the french doors every time they came in and out. They obviously did not heed the sign on the balcony that said to speak softly so as not to disturb your neighbors’ enjoyment of the view and outdoors. For that reason, I think TVs do not belong in an environment like Lost Iguana.

During our stay, I used their very small gym. It’s located below the spa. It only has one elliptical machine, a weight machine, an exercise ball, and a yoga mat. It is not air-conditioned so I was drenched in sweat after being on the elliptical for 30 minutes. One door was left open but it still felt like a sauna after a few minutes of working out.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to try the spa or use the pool. The pools look good. They have a lower pool that is cool and an upper pool that is warm. Most people we saw used the upper pool as it also has a swim up bar.

The bar had happy hours from 3-5 pm where selected drinks were 2 for 1. The drinks were good. I especially like the Iguana Guts (not on the happy hour menu) and the Cacique Sour. I did ask if they can make a mango or passion fruit margarita, but they said they didn’t have the fruit. Seems like they don’t really stray from the drinks on the menu. Also seems odd they didn’t have fresh mangos.

The buffet breakfast (included in the room rate) was good and had a nice limited selection. Compared to our other travels, it’s not the best buffet breakfast but it’s certainly adequate. We ate 3 dinners at Lost Iguana. The dinner menu did not change and I found it to be limiting. My husband was able to find enough entrees to try for 3 nights, but I had a harder time and started to combine appetizer with a salad or soup for 2 of the nights. I think they should offer some daily chef specials for variety. We tried the ceviche appetizer and it was pretty good (better than I imagined).

On our last day at Lost Iguana, my husband and I got up early to hike the trails around Lost Iguana at 6 am. The trails were pretty nice (but not as well marked as Xandari) but it’s hard to get lost. I was glad we at least got to see the resort a little more.

Overall, the Lost Iguana grounds are very nice and you do feel like you are in the rainforest. The accommodations were adequate, but my husband and I both agreed that the best part is the balcony with the rocking chairs and the view of the volcano.

<b>Activities:</b>
<i>Canyoning</i>
Leo set us up with Pure Trek for canyoning. Pure Trek picked us up at 6:45 am from Lost Iguana. They did not charge extra for the transportation. I believe another company will charge extra since LI is located far from town. There were about 20 people in the morning group so 6 guides came along. There were 5 rappels with the first one being the highest. Pure Trek provided a waterproof pullover jacket and dry bag if you needed them. Since it was overcast when we went, we both wore the waterproof pullover. It wasn’t exactly water-tight since water can still get in from the neck opening and wrist area when you are rappelling in the middle of a waterfall. But it did keep us warm while we waited for others to complete their rappel or waited for our turn. We were completely soaked in the end. There was a photographer who came along and took everyone’s photos and we decided to purchase it for $20. The CD included other photos that they took in the area (i.e. animals, Arenal volcano, plants, etc.). I thought the photos of the rappelling was just okay since some of them looked kind of grainy and I would have tried taking some photos from a different angle. There were about 22 photos that had either my hubby or I or both in them. Hubby did bring a camera with waterproof housing so he took some photos as well. Since we lined up one after another, he wasn’t able to get photos of me rappelling. The hike back up the hill was really not difficult at all and not that far. We had a lot of fun rappelling and would do it again.

<i>River Rafting</i>
Leo also arranged for us to go river rafting with Rios Tropicales. We did the class III in Sarapiqui. The location was about an hour and half away from La Fortuna. We were picked up at 7:45 am from Lost Iguana and it took about another 45 min to pick up everyone else before the hour and half drive to the river. Along the way, we stopped for the guides to pick up fresh fruits for us. Use the bathroom at this stop even if you feel like you don’t need to go because there is no bathroom at the river until you get to the lunch area. We found out the hard way and had to find some bushes away from others to relieve ourselves.

After some instructions, we were divided up to 4 rafts (there were about 20-24 people). Only one person on our raft had some experience rafting. We also got the crazy guide who made us spin our raft down the rapids at one point. I think he even attempted to flip our raft but without success since the heaviest people were sitting in the back. We did get stuck on a big rock twice and everyone except me managed to fall into the river at one point or another. It was somewhat of an adrenaline rush at some points since we’d never done this before and didn’t really know what to expect.

About mid-way, we stopped and the guides cut up the fresh fruits for everyone. Afterwards, we were driven to a place for lunch and changed out of our wet clothes. It was a fun experience and we’re glad we took up Leo’s advice and tried river rafting.

<i>Hanging Bridges</i>
We walked over to the Hanging Bridges from Lost Iguana in the afternoon after our canyoning trip. It wasn’t far from Lost Iguana but it was a steep uphill to get there. Since hubby and I are both fairly fit, the uphill walk wasn’t a problem. Lost Iguana does offer a shuttle to drop you off at Hanging Bridges. The entrance fee was $22 per person. Leo had advised us to start the opposite direction of where everyone goes since part of the walk takes you uphill and we’d be walking downhill instead of up if we went the opposite way. Since it had just rained earlier and the park was not crowded, the person who took our tickets allowed us to walk the opposite way. We were very conscious of others walking towards us and would stop and step aside to give them space to walk by (since we are technically walking the wrong way). On a crowded day, I probably wouldn’t advise going the opposite way. But Leo was right that we walked mostly down hill. It was very pretty but misty due to the rain. We didn’t see any animals. It was more of a stroll in the park. We’re glad we went since it was close by but wouldn’t go again. Walking the trails on the Lost Iguana Resort provides a similar effect (without all the bridges).

Before heading back to Lost Iguana, we ate at the restaurant there and had the best casados (chicken for me and beef for hubby) IMHO of our entire stay. It was $16 including tax and tip for the two of us. It was a bargain compared to eating dinner at Lost Iguana restaurant. The restaurant at the Hanging Bridges closes about 4:15 p.m. and it would have a nice view of Arenal volcano if there were no clouds. Back at Lost Iguana, the casado was about $15 each excluding tax/10% svc chrg/tip. In all fairness, the Lost Iguana restaurant prices are typical of the prices you see at most hotel restaurants. You pay for the convenience of eating on site and not having to drive or pay for a taxi to town.

<i>Hike at La Fortuna Waterfall & Arenal Volcano National Park</i>
On our second day in Costa Rica, Leo took us on a full day of hiking at La Fortuna Waterfall and Arenal Volcano National Park. Leo picked us up at 8:30 am and we headed first to La Fortuna Waterfall before it got crowded.

The entrance fee at La Fortuna Waterfall was $9 per person. Leo told us to wear our swim suit under our clothes so we could go swimming once we reached the waterfall. It was a very easy walk down, probably about 15 minutes, and there were a couple of look-out areas that we stopped to take pictures. The trail down wasn’t like a typical hiking trail. It is lined with cement blocks and had roped hand railing for support. Once we had arrived at the waterfall, we left our shoes, clothes, towels, and backpack on a big rock and Leo covered it with his poncho in case of rain and to protect our things. We felt safe enough to leave our things but did keep an eye on them occasionally while swimming in the water. The water was cold when we initially stepped in. But it was fine once we dunked our heads in and got used to it. We could see fish swimming in the water. It was very refreshing. There were many other people there but not crowded at that time in the morning.

After spending some time swimming and chatting with Leo, we headed back up and changed out of our swim suits. We stopped at a market in town to pick up more beer and snacks. Then Leo took us to a soda to have lunch. That was where we were introduced to casados. The food was good and cheap, about $8 including tip for two of us. The owner of the soda didn’t charge for Leo’s lunch.

After lunch, we headed to Arenal Volcano National Park. The entrance fee was $10 per person. Leo took us on a hike and we came across a coati on the trail. He also pointed out other interesting plants along the way. We arrived at the lookout where we could see Arenal volcano in full view. We sat on the rocks there and enjoyed the view. We could hear the volcano rumbling and see rocks coming down the sides. Hubby is really into volcanoes so we stayed for quite some time waiting for more action from Arenal volcano.

<b>Xandari Resort & Spa (in Alajuela):</b>
We stayed 2 nights in Xandari before flying home. We really only had one full day there since we arrived close to dinner time on the first night and checked out at 10 a.m. on the final day. This was our one day of full relaxation.

We stayed in Ultra villa # 4. It had a huge terrace with an awesome view of the city of Alajuela. The terrace was much bigger than I anticipated. It came with 2 lounge chairs, a table with 2 cushioned chairs, and a thatch umbrella with 2 chairs. It was very private; we couldn’t see our neighbors. It had a small kitchenette with a sink, coffee maker, coffee, mini frig and some dishware and utensils. The mini frig came stocked with complementary water, soda, and cookies (beer and wine cost extra). The coffee came from Xandari’s own coffee plantation. There was no A/C but we did not feel hot at all. Actually, we were cold at night and had to use an extra blanket stored in the closet. It could have been due to the thunderstorm we had earlier in the day that brought on the cooler temperature.

There was a living room area adjoining the kitchenette and dining area. The bedroom was open to the living area as well, so we could see the view of the city from the bed. There was a garden patio area adjacent to the bedroom which you can enter through sliding doors. The sizable shower also had a limited view of the garden patio. They provided soap and shampoo made by Xandari and they smelled very nice. The only downside was no hair conditioner so I’d get some tangles in my long hair without use of conditioner. They also provided lotion in a pump dispenser and that was nice.

I did hear rooster crowing in the very early morning hours and dogs barking. I did mention to the resort that I’m a light sleeper and to place us somewhere where it is quieter (since I knew about the rooster and dogs barking from reading the trip advisor reviews). I think our villa was in a good location since the crowing and barking wasn’t terrible even though it did wake me up. There was a CD player in the room so we played the CD at night which helped drown out the noise.

The room was very open with a lot of light, which I like, but the big sliding doors do come with vertical blinds for those who want to sleep in. There are smaller windows above the sliding doors that open so you can get breeze coming in, but those don’t come with any window coverings. Personally, I’m an early morning person so I don’t mind the light.

On our first night, we got to see the sunset which was gorgeous and even a rainbow since it had rained pretty hard in the afternoon.

We hiked all the trails on the Xandari property and they were very well marked. Definitely spray yourself with bug spray since there were a lot of bugs especially near the waterfalls and stream. We also checked out the orchid house (get the key from the front desk) which was worth a visit especially if you like orchids. We used the pool and the pool was great for lap swimming (~25 meters long). We pretty much had the pool to ourselves for most of the afternoon until another couple arrived, and the guy’s cell phone rang a few times and he was talking loudly on the phone and disturbing the tranquility of lounging by the pool. We left and lounged on our terrace instead.

The food was okay at Xandari – more than adequate but not great. The breakfast was included in the room rate so we only paid for the dinners.

During our walk around Xandari, we noticed that they are in the construction stage of adding a couple more villas near the spa area. We didn’t use the spa. I thought the prices were quite high (similar to US prices) and wished I did the spa service at Lost Iguana since they were running a green season special.

Xandari had a TV room and a computer with internet service. You have to get the key each time you want to use the computer. I’m not sure why they keep it locked at all times.

Xandari was close enough to the airport but has the feeling of being far way. They offer complimentary transportation to the airport which was very convenient for us. Hubby and I both feel that the best part of Xandari was relaxing on our terrace with the wonderful view, a good book and a beer.

<b>Final Thoughts:</b>
We used US dollars to pay for everything (even at the sodas). We did get change back in Colones from the market. Just about everyone speaks English but we try to speak as much of our limited Spanish as we can. Hubby and I have traveled to many places in the last 12 years together, and we rank this Costa Rica trip in our top 5. There are so many places to see and things to do in Costa Rica and the people are friendly. We have never gone back to a country twice, since the world is huge and there are so many places to visit. But Costa Rica may be the exception since I am already thinking about a trip back to visit the Osa Peninsula and Manuel Antonio areas.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2009, 07:07 PM
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Enjoyed your report, thanks for sharing.

Karen
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Old Aug 22nd, 2009, 07:55 PM
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Sounds like a great trip, running. Glad you liked Lost Iguana and Xandari. That rooster woke me up too! We must have had the same guide for the Sarapiqui; ours did the "washing machine" too! Funny you mentioned the meal at the Hanging Bridges; we really enjoyed eating there as well - I thought it would be snack bar food but their casados and batidos were wonderful. We did use the employee shuttle at LI and it was pretty convenient. We just went into town for dinner with the employee van and got taxis back. I have a feeling you guys will be going back to CR someday.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2009, 08:34 AM
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Sounds like a great trip! Very nice details and the canyoning sounds fun. I will have to try that sometime! You definitely made the most of your time in Costa Rica and enjoyed so many wonderful things. I agree with the no T.V.'s. It seems like most of the lodges I stay do not have T.V.'s, which really really let's you enjoy Costa Rica without the added distraction.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2009, 02:38 PM
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great review - question, you said you rank costa rica in your top 5 of places you ahve been, what are your other 4? we adore costa rica and are trying to plan for our next travel adventure and would love ideas
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Old Aug 23rd, 2009, 03:53 PM
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<b>Volcanogirl</b> - We were kind of worried about going out to town to have dinner. It rained everyday while we were staying at LI. There was an accident one night where some guy’s car got off the road (between LI and La Fortuna town) and went into a deep ditch. Heard from someone that he was driving drunk. Thank goodness nobody else was hurt. Also, one of the guys from Rio Tropicales mentioned that CR has a high traffic accident fatality rate but the gov’t is just starting to crack down on drunk driving and such. Being that the road has no light at night and slick from rain, we weren’t too crazy about venturing out to town for dinner. In hindsight, perhaps we could have taken the employee van and went for an early dinner and came back before it got dark. Leo mentioned a couple of good restaurants to try in town so maybe next time that’s what we’ll do.

You’re right we will be back to CR someday. Already have my eye on staying at Bosque del Cabo when we visit the Osa Peninsula.

<b>ParkerSunshine</b> – It’s a tough question because each place we visited was special in its own way and it depended on the purpose for that vacation (sometimes we wanted lots of activities, sometimes we just wanted to relax and do nothing, and sometimes a combination of both). But our other top 4 vacations in no particular order are: (1) Kaimbu (Fiji) – this place no longer exist unfortunately; (2) Lizard Island & Sydney (Australia); (3) San Ignacio, Ambergris Caye (Belize) & Tikal (Guatemala); and (4) Jade Mountain Resort (St. Lucia).

A couple of other places that we want to visit in the future are: (1) Cusco, Peru – do the 4 day hike on the Inca trail to Machu Picchu; and (2) Thailand (probably Golden Triangle area, Bangkok, and Koh Samui). Happy travels wherever you decide to go.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2009, 05:44 PM
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You will love BdC! I'm glad to hear you liked Belize - we're mulling over a vacation there.
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