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-   -   Argentina Trip Report - appetizer! (https://www.fodors.com/community/mexico-and-central-america/argentina-trip-report-appetizer-328324/)

jcasale Mar 22nd, 2008 01:29 PM

Argentina Trip Report - appetizer!
 
Having anticipated our trip to Buenos Aires and Iguazu for months now, we are finally here. The hotel we are staying in (Amerian Park) has free internet, so I thought I would post a quickie. So far the trip has been great!

We arrived from Chicago (non-stop) Friday morning right on time. Immigration and customs didnīt take as long as I had feared looking at the length of the lines and we were met at the airport by a driver who wisked us off to our hotel. We were checked in by 11:30 and ready to explore. I donīt sleep on planes, but that never matter once I get there. So we showered, changed clothes and headed out.

We decided to start by wandering down Calle Florida. Went first to the San Martin end and then wandered back as far as Il Cafe Grande where we stopped for lunch. DH and I decided to try the empanadas and pizza. The pizza was very much like the stuff we had in Roma (brought back memories). The empanadas were quite tasty. Donīt know if they wereĻ"good" or not having no comparison. Aftern lunch we walked down Calle Florida to Plaza da Mayo and then back to our hotel. A busy afternoon of walking, but wonderful.

After a quick nap we headed out in the pouring rain to see if we could get tickets on Buquebus to go to Colonia on Monday. They were all sold out and since we had other things planned the other days, we decided to skip Colonia and we'll go to Tigre Delta instead. After that we walked over to El Mirasol which had been recommended here and also by the parents of one of my students (they are from BA). We had a FABULOUS dinner. The steak was huge and tender. Thanks to whoever mentioned here that you should order it rare if you want it medium rare. I did that and it was perfect. Compliment that with a wonderful glass of Malbec and finish off with a crepe con dulce de leche and I don`t know when I have had a better meal. Total bill came out to about $100 US for 4 people. Not a bad deal at all!

This morning we were picked up for a half day city tour. it gave us a great overview of the city and included som etime to wander in Recoleta, Plaza de Mayo, and La Boca. I was glad to have the opportunity to get to La Boca. I wanted to see it, but didnīt necessarily need to spend a lot of time there. It was very cool and I found some great gauzy pants that I had to buy :-P! We were dropped off at Puerto Madero and wandered a bit along the waterfront and then went to lunch at Spell Cafe. It was nice - nothing special, but decent food and the waitress was fun. Took a cab back to the hotel and our friends took a nap and DH and I headed back out.

We took a cab to Recoleta to see the flower sculpture that opens and closes. Very cool! Then we wandered around the craft fair. Very remeniscent of theĻ"hippie fair" in Rio. We ended up buying several items - I especially like the Rhodochrite earrings and necklace I got there. Much nicer (IMO) than what I saw at jewelry stores and much cheaper. Had my first alfajore (not bad - the crepes were better) and then headed back to the hotel to rest. Tonight we go to dinner and a tango show at El Querandi.

All in all we are having a great time. The weather has been OK. Very warm yesterday. Today cooler. And of course the rain last night. If I have a chance to post the rest later, I will. Otherwise, look for the trest of the report when we get home. Thanks to all who helped me plan!

jcasale Mar 22nd, 2008 03:10 PM

Oops - mistyped the name of the lunch spot yesterday. It,s Il Gran Cafe. Went there again today for mate.

AndrewDavid Mar 22nd, 2008 06:20 PM

we really enjoyed our trip out from tigre in january on one of the waterbuses. had a great lunch and swim at a modest little resort on rio sarmiento

have fun
cheers
AndrewDavid

jcasale Mar 23rd, 2008 02:42 PM

Do you recall the name? I gather we will be able to pick up on eof the waterbuses pretty easily where the train drops off? Hopefully the weather will be as good as today.

jcasale Mar 23rd, 2008 02:50 PM

So, the tango show was quite nice. We were very surprised that the food was pretty good (my experience is that sometimes the food at these kinds of things is mediocre at best, but we had some good meals). We were also shocked to find out that our bottle of wine was included, or must have been since no one ever asked us for any money. The show was good - a nice history of the tango. And the musicians were very good. All in all it was a wonderful evening. We did discover, though, that when we are told we will be picked up at a certain time, we should add about a 1/2 hour.

Today we slept in a little bit and then after breakfast we took a cab to San Telmo and hit the fair. OMG - what a huge and festive atmosphere. We bought many items (even though we had bought a lot yesterday). Stopped at one point for something to drink and I tried mate done the real way. It was quite an experience. Very bitter at first and then it got better. After a bit, though, I decided a little goes a long way and I regret to say I didnīt finish it. No one else liked it at all.

After we had seen quite a bit of San Telmo (including some tango dancing and musicians), we headed over to Recoleta and had lunch at La Biela. We sat outside and had a wonderful lunch. Better pizza than Il Gran Cafe and a very nice glass of wine. Then over to the cemetary where we found Evita's grave. After that, some more wandering through the stalls we missed yesterday and then we had to go to Freddo's for ice cream. I had choclate suizo and Dulce de leche granizado - YUMMMMM. We then took our friends to see the flower and then headed back to the hotel to collapse.

Except for me. I got a Coke light and took my book to the Plaza San Martin and watched the sky darken and the lights come on over the clock tower. It was so peacful and relaxing. Tonight we may try to go to Cafe Tortoni (the last thing on my "must do's" for BA) and then tomorrow off to Tigre Delta.

drdawggy Mar 23rd, 2008 04:30 PM

DH? Designated Husband?

tully Mar 23rd, 2008 05:12 PM

Looking forward to hearing about your trip to Tigre, planning to do that myself on my trip. Are there set times the flower sculpture opens/closes?

Scarlett Mar 23rd, 2008 05:48 PM

I am enjoying this so much! :)
I am glad you are seeing so much and enjoying everything!
We were around Biela today too :)
It was sure a beautiful day...looking forward to hearing more and about Tigre too ! :)

AndrewDavid Mar 23rd, 2008 09:55 PM

Hi I believe it was Dos or Los Ciervos. Have fun
AndrewDavid

ps the river is quite brown w/ alluvial flow coming down stream, but we were told the water is swimmable and we both swam w/o ill effects

jcasale Mar 30th, 2008 08:09 AM

So, we are finally back in the land of internet and trying to get over a lack of sleep last night on the plane (I never sleep, so I just expect to be a bit groggy and go with the flow). I will post more later, but suffice it to say right now that I LOVED Argentina. Buenos Aires was wonderful - so friendly and warm (both in weather and the people) and Iguazu was an amazing experience. I will give reason later, but we all decided that in order to truly see the falls you HAVE to do both sides. I know this is an ongoing debate. We had Brazilian visas already from a previous trip, but our friends didn't and they agreed that it was worth the hassle and cost. They would not have wanted to miss it because of concern about the $130 it cost them. More later with details.

Scarlett - sorry we didn't know we were in the same place - would have been fun to meet.

drdawwgy - sure - DH = designated husband works for me :-P! Could also be "darling" or "damn" depending on the day ;-)!


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