Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Mexico & Central America
Reload this Page >

Another itinerary question for CR experts---Osa peninsula and Savegre Lodge

Another itinerary question for CR experts---Osa peninsula and Savegre Lodge

Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 03:02 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Another itinerary question for CR experts---Osa peninsula and Savegre Lodge

Hello everyone,

Hubby and I went to CR last year and are already attempting to get back next year, April 2007. We enjoy bird-watching and want to begin our trip in the San Gerardo de Dota area.

We stayed at Bosque del Cabo last trip and definitely want to return to the Osa this year, but can't decide between going back to Bosque or trying out Lapa Rios. I have read all the threads on this subject and am more confused than ever!! It seems like at Lapa Rios, they really encourage taking tours vs. walking trails yourself, and we liked how at Bosque we could pick a trail and often have it to ourselves. I know that some people have noted how there are a lot of stairs to climb if we don't get a lower numbered bungalow, which can be tiring after long hikes. On the other hand, the website makes the bungalows look beautiful (of course, at double the price of BDC, they should). We are willing to spend the extra money if we decide that it would be worth it over BDC.

The tentative itinerary is as follows:

Early flight from Boston to San Jose---one night at Finca Rosa Blanca then morning transfer arranged to get to Savegre Lodge in San Gerardo.

Stay 2 nights then another transfer to Puerto Jimenez---Savegre Lodge can arrange this according to their website (anyone know how long of a trip this is??)

Stay 4 nights at Lapa Rios or BDC--fly Natureair back to San Jose.

All recommendations and advice appreciated--even though the trip is over a year away, we are so happy to be planning our second trip!! Thanks.

Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Jan 24th, 2006, 06:04 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Melissa, I am feeling so envious! This sounds like a perfect trip! Actually very similiar to a future plan of ours.

We were at BdC in Feb 05, while there we spoke with people who had visited Lapa and we made friends with 2 couples that were splitting their time between BdC and Lapa. While they were at Lapa we arranged to visit and arranged a fishing trip together. So I can only say that these couples much preferred BdC. What we gathered was that everyone preferred the ease of getting around at BdC. Plus several felt that Lapa had a much more formal feeling, which is the complete opposite of BdC's family style gathering. The grounds and trails seemed to have been preferred at BdC.

Possibly you too could split your time while in the area?

Sounds like a great trip and as you know it is never too early to book BdC.
dfarmer is offline  
Old Jan 24th, 2006, 06:21 AM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you, Dfarmer!!

I have read many of your posts when planning both our first trip last year and now this one, and appreciate the advice.

I think we are leaning toward BDC, because the more formal atmosphere (I have read posts from other Fodorites that also note this) is not us, and of course BDC was wonderful the first time around.

I have found out that the drive to Savegre is about 3 hours, but I am still trying to figure out how long the transfer to BDC will be, because I want to figure out how much time we need to put aside for travelling. We might skip Finca for the first night and go directly to Savegre so we have an extra night there (we should be arriving at 1PM). We will have a total of 7 nights in CR.

The planning is definitely half of the fun!!

Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Jan 24th, 2006, 03:51 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi danandmelissa. . .regarding your transfer to Puerto Jimenez, we did the same thing a couple of years ago, but went by bus from San Isidro (after Hotel Savegre took us there). And we went by way of San Vito, where we stayed a couple of nights. We have taken the other route in pieces, so here is an estimate:

Savegre to San Isidro, about 1.5 hour.
San Isidro to Dominical, abt 1 hour.
Dominical to Palmar Norte, abt 1 hour.
Palmar Norte to PJ, about 2-3 hours
PJ to BdC, 45 min.

All together, you can expect the drive to take between 5 and 6 hours, just to Puerto Jimenez, then your taxi to BdC (45 min). It will be a long drive, but interesting! Enjoy!
shillmac is offline  
Old Jan 25th, 2006, 04:18 AM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Shillmac!!

Thank you very much for posting your estimated times--this is actually a lot longer than I thought it would take--my husband makes fun of how I always think things look closer to each other on maps than they are in reality--despite how many times I have made this mistake!!

However, it seems that even if we get a transfer back to San Jose and then fly to Puerto Jimenez (plus the drive to BDC, we remember that road well!), it works out to almost the same amount of time.

So I think we would still plan on taking the transfer. Would you recommend having Bosque set up the taxi to get to their place from Puerto Jimenez? I figure that Kevin in his Land Rover would be our best bet to get us to BDC rather than the taxi/transfer vehicle from Savegre.

Thanks again!!

Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Jan 25th, 2006, 04:29 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You are very welcome Melissa.

Although it would be hard to cut Finca Rosa, I do agree that getting onto Savegre that first night is a good plan.

Sounds delightful
dfarmer is offline  
Old Jan 26th, 2006, 06:57 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You are welcome, Melissa. I agree that it would be a good idea for Kevin to pick you up. As to the times, I tend to estimate them long rather than short. Especially knowing that you'll want to work in a bathroom break or two and maybe a meal! The first 3 legs I mentioned just might be a few minutes less, but no more than than. Also, from Palmar Norte to PJ, I can't remember exactly. We were on a bus, so in a car it could very well be closer to 2 hours. Anyway you cut it, it is a long transfer.

I would love to get down to Savegre during the dry season sometime. Marino Chacon is such a great guide for bird watching. I'm assuming you know about him. . if you don't, by all means, get acquainted. He's the best! Be sure to let him know you are coming. He was very busy in July when we were there (delivering apples) and was kind enough to rearrange his schedule for me (I hadn't thought to schedule the guided birding ahead of time).

I'm new at birding, but have been with 4 different guides in Costa Rica. All have been good, very competent with the field guide, and recognizing bird songs and difficult to see birds. However, I've not seen anyone birdwatch with a passion equal to Marino's!
shillmac is offline  
Old Jan 27th, 2006, 04:17 AM
  #8  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you, Shillmac, I have read about Marino and plan on setting up a time to have him guide us. We of course have the quetzal as top of our list and I am eyeing a new camera to help us get some good pics if possible!!

I think we might revisit the idea of getting a transfer back to San Jose then taking a NatureAir flight to Puerto Jimenez. Long drives don't always agree with me and it does seem like flying there (even with the 3 hours back to the airport) would save a little time. Cost wise, the flight and tranfer back to the airport is almost the same as a long transfer directly to PJ. We used Sansa last time and there were a lot of delays so we want to try NatureAir, having heard more positive comments about it.

Isn't it funny how addictive going to CR is---when we planned our first trip, we didn't know anyone who had gone and now we can't figure out why it took us so long to plan a trip there in the first place!! We have been birdwatching for several years now and it is by far the best place we have ever been to see such a diverse amount of them. Can't wait to return!!

Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Jan 27th, 2006, 05:46 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
San Gerardo de Dota is a beautiful area -- you will love it. I stayed at Trogon Lodge -- the roads are really something, so if you have a late flight, I'd stick to your original plan of SJ the first night. I definitely recommend flying Nature Air to Puerto Jimenez -- you'll save a lot of time and Nature Air is very reliable.

Have a great trip!
Sandy
sandyc is offline  
Old Jan 28th, 2006, 02:42 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One more vote for birdwatching with Marino!. The are no words to describe his passion for birds and he knows where to find them. Hire him for more than one half-day trip
Pat2003 is offline  
Old Jan 28th, 2006, 04:11 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Melissa, you folks are in for a treat at Savegre Lodge. Of course bird diversity is not nearly as high at that altitude as in the lowlands but the quality is exceptional.

Don't be terribly surprised if you see a quetzal before your guided outing. Quetzals are not an uncommon 'yard bird' at Savegre.

And when you walk out of your cabin in the [chilly] morning you will be greeted by such wonderful birds as long tailed silky flycatcher, torrent tyrannulet, slatey flower-piercer, spangle-cheeked tanager, fiery throated hummingbird and one of my favorites -the little 'amigo de hombre' collared redstart which might well accompany you on your walk.

I strongly suggest you have a guide take you up to the paramo for some high-altitude birding. They usually go up to a communications tower area for volcano junco, large-footed finch, timberline wren and some other difficult birds.

Savergre is a gem -you will love it.

Jerry [in Toronto with not a quetzal in sight....]
gannetmusic is offline  
Old Jan 29th, 2006, 12:55 PM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you all so much for all of the great input---we are very excited about the plan for our second trip...even though we have a ways to wait!!

Dan and Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Jan 30th, 2006, 10:41 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We saw some great trogons on a horseback ride/hike down to a waterfall. Quetzals seemed to be everywhere. We went in Feb so I am not sure how they would be in April. The avocados that they eat were ripening and they were just flying overhead as we got out of the car. there were silky tailed flycathers just sitting on the electrical lines by the lodge. By the bar at Savegre there are some flowering bushes that attract hummingbirds. My husband and I spent hours watching them(hmmmm does that mean we like hummingbirds or that we drink a lot????).

Turning off the highway and heading down into that beautiful little valley was like riding into Shangri La.

We did need our light fleece. It is about 7,000ft there.

We just drove through that area in November. We found the road between San Isidro and where Palmar Norte meets the interamerican to be pretty good. Around San Isidro it was excellent. The road between San Isidro and Dominical was pretty bad and very slow going. We stopped for lunch along the way so I lost track of the time. The new coastal road was a cake walk but I was disapointed in what you could see as you drove along. When the new road between Dominical and Quepos is done this will be the main truck route.

We drove from Bosque del Cabo to Volcan which is about 1/2 hr south of San Isidro. It took us 4 hrs but we did make a brief stop for one last bird hunt in the Rincon area (great area for cotingas). We saw 9 sloth within a very short walk from the intersection in a couple of directions. A red lored parrot flew about 10 feet away from me just a little over eye level. We counted 20 something toucans on our 4hr trip also. We also saw several laughing falcons in the Rincon area.

We stayed in Volcan at a friends house and then drove to San Jose the next morning. It took us about 4 hrs with 2 very brief potty/gas breaks. It was a Sunday morning and there was very little truck traffic. Because of the mountains (you do reach an altitude of 10,000ft) the trucks can really slow things down during the week.

All of this info from everyone regarding the roads is probably premature as things can change a lot in a year. I would definitely check back.

Another place to look into birding is Rancho Naturalista.

Suzie2 is offline  
Old Feb 1st, 2006, 05:31 AM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Suzie2,

Thanks for the tip on Rancho Naturalista!! Good thing this trip isn't until next year because I have the feeling that we will be changing the itinerary a few times. It looks like the birding there is amazing...

I am still trying to figure out the location in relation to Savegre--is Rancho on the way from San Jose to Savegre? Maybe this is a possible itinerary:

Rent a car, drive to Rancho first and stay 2 nights. Then drive to Savegre and stay two nights. I think having our own car might be easier than arranging several transfers?

Back to San Jose and fly to Osa and stay three nights (we have already been here and are trying to keep it in the itinerary because we miss it so much!!).

Once again, thanks everyone for the help!!

Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Feb 1st, 2006, 06:47 AM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Minimum stay at Rancho is generally three nights but you should verify that. A very 'birdy' place that must be reserved far in advance.

Jerry
gannetmusic is offline  
Old Feb 1st, 2006, 08:51 AM
  #16  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info, Jerry.

We may end up deciding to cut out Bosque del Cabo for this trip so we can spend more time at these two places for the birding. Tough decision!!

Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Feb 2nd, 2006, 10:44 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you are planning to go to both Rancho Naturalista and Savegre you might want to contact Costa Rica Gateway (www.costaricagateway.com). On our first trip to CR they arranged our itinerary and transport (we did 2 nights Villas Lapas (to go to Carara and Tarcoles), 3 nights Rancho Naturalista, and 2 nights Savegre.) They'll also arrange it for you without the transport if you'd rather drive. They specialize in birding itineraries their drivers were great about stopping for birds, and they arranged for us to have a guide in Carara (Kevin Easly, one of the best birders in CR.)

At one time Costa Rica Gateway was actually owned by the owner of Rancho Naturalista and Tarcol lodge but I'm not sure that is still the case; however they are affiliated.

Anyway even if you don't use them, their website is a font of information on various birding areas/lodges.

Jerry is absolutely right about Savegre--its fabulous--and Quetzal is practically a junk bird (well, never! but we must have seen 10 while we were there in February.)

You can see my photos here to whet your appetite..

http://www.jczinn.com/costarica/costa.htm
jczinn is offline  
Old Feb 2nd, 2006, 10:48 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
oh and I should add that we also used Marino at Savegre and he was great--although in his enthusiasm he led us on a wild march through high grass in search of some dove we never found, and every one in our party ended up with a nasty case of chiggers! So wear long pants and use DEET and watch out for the tall grass.
jczinn is offline  
Old Feb 2nd, 2006, 03:48 PM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
jczinn,

Thank you for the website--I like how you can design your own itinerary and then we wouldn't have to drive ourselves either.

Did you feel like you had enough time in each place with your itinerary or is there anything that you would have changed? We also only will have 7 nights and would like to add a third area (it is looking like we will skip Bosque del Cabo this trip).

By the way, the pictures are beautiful, you are very talented!!

Melissa
danandmelissa is offline  
Old Feb 3rd, 2006, 10:03 AM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Melissa,
Our itinerary worked out quite well given the time limit we had (also 7 nights) and what we wanted to see (a variety of different habitats--macaws and quetazals!) Of course, if we could have, I could easily have added another night at Rancho Naturalista (because you can take different off-site tours from there, but we didn't have the time.)

One advantage we did have is that our flight (Lacsa from JFK) arrived very early the first morning (so we had practically a full day on arrival) and left late in the day on our departure day. What part of the country are you flying from??

If you're interested here is the exact itinerary I received from CR Gateway back in 2002:

February 15 2003 Villa Lapas Hotel (2 nts)
Arrive the morning of the 15th and take transport from SJO airport to Hotel Villa Lapas. Transfer time will be approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes. Stop enroute in Orotina for resident Black and White Owls. All meals, transportation, and taxes included.

February 16 2003 Carara National Park and River Tour
Early morning departure from Hotel Villa Lapas for Carara National Park. Morning tour with trained naturalist [note: this ended up being Kevin Easly] followed by gourmet lunch at Tarcol Lodge. Afternoon departure from Tarcol lodge for river boat tour. Return to Villa Lapas in the early evening hours. Lunch, park entry fees, guide, and transportation included.

February 17-20 2003 Rancho Naturalista (3 nts)
Early morning departure from Hotel Villa Lapas for Rancho Naturalista. Transfer time of approximately 4 hours and fifteen minutes. A sack lunch can be provided by Villa Lapas or arrangements can be made to stop en route. All meals, transportation, guiding, horseback riding, and taxes included.

February 20-21 2003 Savegre (2 nts)
Early morning departure from Rancho Naturalista for Savegre. Transfer time of approximately 2 hours and 45 minutes. Transportation, lodging, and taxes included.

February 22 2003 Airport
Transfer from Savegre to Airport according to flight information. Transfer time of approximately 2.75 hours. Transportation included.

This ended up being about $1100 per person (we had four people) but of course that was in 2002. Everything was included!

Thanks for the compliments on my photos. That was all pre-digital...We are returning to CR in two weeks and I'm very excited for the opportunity to do more photography now that I am using a digital camera. I'll post a link to my gallery on my return! This time we are renting a car and doing it all on our own, but since this is our third trip, we are taking it easy for a few days at the end in Manual Antonio.
jczinn is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -