5 Weeks in Chocolate Paradise
 

Oaxaca is a most interesting city & area.
I arrived 3 days before my apartment was available due to a change of plans. I had planned on taking the bus down the coast to Puerto Escondido via Acapulco but demonstrations shut down Highway 200 between Zihuatanejo & Acapulco, so I flew Aeromexico via MEX for $198 US.
Arrived mid afternoon on the 6th of February at the surprisingly small but adequate airport that looked to be very new. Caught the "collectivo" for 60 pesos a true bargain. It turned out to be a regular cab which I shared with 3 others.
About 20 minutes to the Hotel Oaxaca Magico in El Centro. It was a very nice small hotel. Room was small (would hate to share it with my wife's luggage) bur well equipped & meticulously clean.
Excellent cable, WiFi & the tiny bathroom had all the amenities of far more expensive then my $56 US rate here. The staff was the best especially the young lady who seemed to run the front desk day & night.
After getting settled I returned to the front desk where I was given a much better map than I had downloaded off the internet. She gave me correct instructions to get to the Zocalo, but 3 blocks away. I of course with my unerring sense of direction & excellent Spanish skills took a wrong turn at the first corner & headed in the wrong direction. After I walked about 5 blocls hitting a major highway I suspected I was headed in the wrong direction.
So turning around I found the Zocalo on my second try.
Lovely Square with a string of cafes on 2 sides, hotel & cathedral on a third & abandoned government buildings on the 4th. This is the result of the protest/demonstrations back in the mid 2000's that just about wiped out the tourist business for a few years. While the demonstrators are still there it is a much lower key & no violence that I saw.
Had my first Mole dish at one of the street level cafe finding it Delicious! With my first cup of Chocolate Caliente after I knew I was in for agreat 5 weeks.
More later

Now we've got two reports on Oaxaca going! Looking forward to hearing about your extended stay.

Looking forward to more.

me too!!!

Day two. Up early ready to explore the city. At just over 5,000' coming from sea level it is a bit of adjustment but nothing difficult. Found a wonderful breakfast spot "La Rana" on the edge of the Benito Juarez Mercado.
Found Mina street with it's string of Chocolate Shops & the bus station for the transportation to Monte Alba'n but deciding to wait until after I moved to my apartment.
Had my first Malteada a malted chocolate drink which came cold in a large glass for 15 pesos. A real bargain!
That night, Friday I met with some local Expats that were friends of a friend. We had dinner on the Zocalo.
The invited me to their home for the next night the start of a wonderful friendship.
Saturday I wandered the more touristy areas with fancy plate glass stores with matching high prices. Had my first Siesta enjoying it immensely.
That night off to Bill & Sandra's lovely home filled with wood carvings, local paintings & great hand woven rugs. It was a pot luck but the main dish some great homemade chili.Some times new amigos are as good as old ones!
Next Moving.

Oh, I have been waiting for this report!

Stewbear has an unerring sense of direction, who knew, lol!

You had me at the malteada on Mina St. Oh the sheer unadulterated joy...

So happy you met up w/expat friends of friends. Sounds great so far. Really looking forward to hearing about your apartment, as I followed you search for accommodations for this trip.

Oh, and I seriously want your retirement.

EMD3
First you work from 13 to 61. Then you have triple by pass surgery followed by prostrate cancer then you get to retire! Smile
PS I'm very healthy now at 71.

The Apartment
Some may know that I fell into an incredible deal last year in Guanajuato renting a 4 bedroom, 3 bath house with a roof top patio in the best area in town but a half a block from the Governor's Mansion for $300 US a month plus utilities.It was between long term rental so the owner gave me a terrific deal to say the least.
I had seen a video of my apartment & the area so had an idea of what to expect. Knew it was basically one room for $300 US.
I had arranged to meet the manger at the location at 2:00 PM on Sunday taking a 35 peso can ride.
The area was fine middle class one just a block from the Children's Museo & 2 blocks from Mina street. A couple of cafes & a very nice coffee house a block away.
Anyways I arrived with the manger waiting. We entered through a high walled gate into a small courtyard used for parking & surround by a dozen of efficiency units.
Upon entering it look more than adequate actually larger than I thought it would be with a decent bath, a comfortable bed. The Kitchenette area with micro wave, decent fridge & 2 burner electric hot plate & coffee pot.
I was told the cable was out but it should be on by the AM. It never was in 30 days. Not a biggie as the WiFi was decent & I could usually stream Netflix my "TV" of choice.
After the manager left I began checking things out. There was plate, silverware, glass & cup for ONE! No bowls, one fry pan & one pan with a lid that was too small for the pan. All of a sudden I realized the was NO kitchen sink. In fact the only sink was the small bathroom one. Most of the units had a large utility sink outside but alas this unit had none. No pitchers, no dish pan, no nothing else!
After I calmed down internally I realized there was little I could do about this as I had prepaid.
So off to the nearest large box store about 5 blocks away where along with groceries I purchased a large dishpan, dish towels, bowls, disposable plates, glasses, silverware, a pitcher for sun tea, etc spending about $30 of my own money for apartment basics plus my groceries. Also bug spray for I have had experience with ground floor cockroaches, a good investment.
Walked to the Zocalo that evening having dinner at another patio cafe watching the very busy activities with 1000's of strollers, musicians, clowns, mimes & the hoards of street peddlers.
Next Monte Alban.``

Up early having breakfast in then off to Autobuses Turisticos at Mina #501 purchasing a 50 peso for a round trip to Monte Alba'n Zona Arqueologia. Bus held about 50 & seemed in good condition. Turistco is a bit of a misnomer as on this 8:30 AM bus many locals got on as we made our way across the highway & up the mountain so many that with only about 10 visitors the bus was standing room only by the time we arrived. It's probably over a 100 yards to the entrance from the parking lot & mostly straight up.
As you enter the Museo, gift shop & snack cafe are 2 your right. I went first to the Museo with No signage in English. I wish I had gone first gone to the gift shop as they sell a tour guide in a number of languages including English.
After purchasing the 59 peso ticket (seems that's the normal cost for most exhibits, museos etc)you enter a turnstile politely declining several offers for a guide. Then another 100 yards uphill to the first ruins. Lots & Lots of steps but there is a lift past the first set of steps then a handicap walkway by the Ball Court & down to the city floor.
Having visited both Teotihuacan a couple of times & Machu Picchu this past November I was anxious to see this site that Mexico is so proud of they picture on their 20 peso note.
The view from the overlook by the ball court is impressive. Stretchering at least a quarter of a mile from end to end but in reality it is even larger.
I wandered the grounds, temples, stairways touching were allowed the carvings, walls & monuments feeling what seemed to be an vibe of times long passed. To be in this 2,600 plus old city was in a phrase I seldom use Awe Inspiring!
After about 3 hours I retired first to The Cafe for a cool drink with a lovely view then the gift shop where I purchased the guide for our return visit after my wife arrives.
Taking the noon return bus which had but 10 people or so on it.
A most special day!
Next the Instituto Nacional De Antropologia E Historia.

Very nice day at Monte Alban! I hope I am as active at 71. Bummer about no kitchen sink though, that would be a big deal for me, I don't want to wash my dishes while showering, lol. And having to buy basics does suck for a monthly rental. But it had a good location, I assume you could smell the chocolate out your door?

Where did you find the apartment, VRBO?

Calling Stewbear, where are you Stewbear? Need an update on your report...Been waiting patiently...time to get back on it dude...I am not the only one who wants to know what else happened...I need a Oaxaca fix and I am waiting to hear about your wife's experiences too!

Eileen

Thought I'd hold off with more until "See" finished her wonderful report. I'll begin again in a couple of days.

ok but hopefully don't dally too long, she is pretty much done...

The day after I walked/explored Monte Alban I spent several hours at Instituto Nacional de Antropologia E Historla (www.inah.gob.mx).
I was told it is best to visit this treasure after your visit to Alban, a most wise decision as many of the exhibits tie directly into the ruins. It is essential IMO that you rent for 40 pesos (admission is the standard 59 pesos) the English language CD guide recording to really appreciate the many exhibits.
The Pre-Spanish displays are especially interesting including the Gold Medallion, Jewelry, pottery, obelisks along with many more displays.
One of the things I found that the huge garden that surrounds much of the Museo can be better seen from the many windows, patios & courtyards in the Museo without paying the rip off (IMO) 100 peso admission for English speaking tourists. More on that later.
All in all a great 3 hours.
Next Tule

Oh so happy to see you have started this up again!!!! Have not been to Tule. Looking forward to that.
I have not been to the INAH , it is now on my list for Oaxaca next time.

Tule. This is my last out of town adventure until my wife arrives on Friday when we start exploring seriously.
Walked past Juarez Park (lovely) to Calz Ninos Heroes de Chapultepec right about 3 blocks passed the very nice baseball park (alas no games until after I leave) where I caught a "collectivo" (actually a cab) for Tule for 20 pesos. Only seat was in front so I jumped in for the perhaps 20 minute or so ride to Tule getting out on the main drag.
The area is lovely. Well maintained lawns & gardens surrounding this huge plant.
I have been to the Tallest tree (Rockefeller Forest Redwood), the biggest by Volume (The General Sherman, Sequoia National Park) the Oldest (Mojave National Monument) & now the largest by circumference. All are magnificent. This tree is truly special & well worth a visit. Entry fee 10 peso.
There is a Mercado in front & the small church is attractive.
Went across the street to the recommended cafe having The Carnitias. Not awful but my poorest meal of the trip.
Walk around town a bit catching another collectivo that was virtually empty for the ride back. We soon filled up & at the Government offices on the edge of Oaxaca the driver stopped again to pick up a 6th passenger indicating I should move over to sit on the consul/transmission. As a 71 YO grouch I refused to do so instead getting out to let the newcomer sit on it.
So packed like sardines I was happy to get out at the ballpark.
A lesson learned. Sit in the back by a window.
Next: 2 days Just hanging around town. Then picking up Linda

Lol, cranky man....I would have done the same thing. I have done the walk to the baseball stadium to get a cab to Tlacalula for Sunday Market. In the cab on the way back, there were 7 of us in a small Toyota. My husband and I could not afford to get out when th last 2 people got in, as we were on the hwy and it was getting late, last thing we needed was not to get a ride back to the city.

That large park you go by on the way to the baseball park is really nice. On the Sunday we were there we watched a Zumba class in that park, and there were vendors renting little batter operated cars for kids to ride around in. Very nice place.

Looking forward to hearing how Linda liked Oaxaca.

Yeah the little kiddie cars & the inflatable slide is fun to watch. More later about the Friday market.

Yeah the little kiddie cars & the inflatable slide is fun to watch. More later about the Friday market.

Yeah the little kiddie cars & the inflatable slide is fun to watch. More later about the Friday market.

Now how I do I get rid of the triple post? Have no idea how it happened.

Don't worry about it, just carry on...but now I am 3 times as anxious to hear about the Friday market

Just kidding

Spent the next several days hanging with my new amigos, exploring El Central, checking out the huge market across the highway, even though I was told not to go due to pickpockets etc. Had no problems, visited the second class bus station, even by accident I walked down one of the "hooker" streets with Ladies of the Evening (this mid morning) spaced every 10' or so displaying there "wares".
Attended The Juarez Park Friday market a interesting mix of arts, crafts & food items. I am always fascinated by the wonderful mix of colors.
Had lunch across the street at 100% Fresh one of the few chain restaurants I eat at.
Found the Lending Library a bit of the US in the heart of Oaxaca.Lots of books to rent for a small fee but as I had several of my own to read did not get any. I did however see a poster announcing The Saint Petersburg, Russia Ballet's performance of Swan Lake in early March. Went immediately to The Juarez Theatre getting third row seats.
Next Linda's arrival

Any coincidence you did hooker street before the arrival of la esposa? BTW, in Spanish "esposas" means handcuffs, just so you know.
Hierve el Agua is worthwhile if you can get there; picnic with the locals. The ex-convento in Cuilapan where Guerrero was executed is worth a visit, too. CASA (Centro de las Artes de San Agustin) is nice as well, it's a textile mill converted into an art center in San Agustin Etla. Try a coctel Donaji before you leave, just to say you did. But it has to have sal de gusano instead of the regular salt.

Hardly, At 71 trying to keep one gal happy is a full time job.
BE patient Hierve el Agua is coming up. Many (most) of the valley stuff I waited on until Linda arrived.
PS Saw a second "Hooker" block just down from the Artisa Market with my dear wife in tow. Kind of amazed me as while I over the years have observed an occasional "lady of the Night" I have never been anywhere in Mexico so open & blatant.
Kind of reminded of North Michigan in Chicago where the prettiest Professional gals walk And no I only observed there also never partaking

Linda's plane was scheduled to arrive at 10:00 PM. Left apartment an hour before picking up a cab but a block from my door arranging the trip for 120 pesos for the 20 minute drive to the small but excellent airport.
Spent my wait time have a coffee in the pleasant cafe. Efficient Aeromexico was on time & my bride was soon through the arrival gate & in my arms. Been almost 5 weeks so a most Joyce reunion!
Caught the collectivo back for 60 pesos per. It was backed so my DW "rode" the hump in the front seat with me snuggled by the door for the short ride home. Letting her sleep a couple of hours after her over night flight I went for a walk returning to hear her in the shower.
After she dressed it's off to The Zocalo, Juarez Market & other sights. Home after a light lunch.

WARNING GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION DO NOT READ IF FAINT OF HEART!


We took a nap before dinner but I soon was suffering an extreme bout of Montezuma's Revenge. I was soon hanging in the bathroom reliving myself from both ends. Food (Paella) that I had 2 days before was coming out completely undigested! This is but the third bout of something similar in 27 years of Mexican travel but the only time I did not do something to cause it by poor judgement.
Once my stomach had emptied I was able to take a prescription drug that Linda had brought down. It quickly cleared up the "Revenge".
So no Dinner for me that night.
Next Linda's first full day

Oh Stewbear , I feel for you, both ends just sucks. What prescription med did Linda bring down that helped you?

Not sure but it is something she proscribed for our trip to Peru last November. Fortunately it was not need on the trip or since my incidence.
First time I caught this when I was not at fault. First time 12 years ago I stupidly ate a slice of unpeeled cucumber in Manzanillo & 3 years ago I failed to properly soak a head of lettuce in Zihuatanejo. So 3 times in 28 years is not so bad.

Not sure but it is something she proscribed for our trip to Peru last November. Fortunately it was not need on the trip or since my incidence.
First time I caught this when I was not at fault. First time 12 years ago I stupidly ate a slice of unpeeled cucumber in Manzanillo & 3 years ago I failed to properly soak a head of lettuce in Zihuatanejo. So 3 times in 28 years is not so bad.

First full day was out for breakfast then a full day of Mercado & shops with a bit of sight seeing in between.
Linda was overjoyed at the huge selection of hand made clothing items, art work, pottery & all else.
One of our stops was at the Artisa Market. While I waited down the street at one of the Chocolate Shops enjoying my new favorite drink. She showed up after about an hour asking me to return with her to meet a wonderful gentleman she had met.
Thus I was introduced to Manuel a most accomplished third generation rug weaver. Manuel offered not only to take us out to his village home but to guide us elsewhere providing us with a driver at a very reasonable cost. I had checked some rates for private drivers & his drivers rate was a good 20% cheaper.
So Began a wonderful friendship.
We arranged to take our first trip 2 days later as I had promised Linda a trip to Monte Alban for the next day. She enjoyed this as much as I.
Next Hierve el Aqua, Mitla, Santa Ana del Valle & more.

I think you'll find Santa Ana somewhat of a letdown, at least as compared to Teotitlan. Maybe you've already planned on Teotitlan; the casa of Manual?). Casa Santiago (in town on the right as you enter) has as nice a selection of rugs as any other taller, plus they forgo the dog and pony show of the dyeing, etc. which is OK, but seems (to me) more oriented towards tour groups rather than showing you a large selection of rugs.

Up early the next AM with breakfast at home. Manuel & his driver were on time so off first to Hierve el Aqua. The direct route was either closed by construction or protesters we heard both, but our driver knew a back way. A bit bumpy so a long trip, a stop at the gate to "Pay" the 10 peso road fee demanded by locals for Linda & I, but our two Mexican friends no charge we arrived.
Mixed review. While lovely scenery & the pools, calcified falls are indeed fascinating the whole area had a rather forlorn deserted appearance.
The large man made pool surrounded by empty cabanas had no water in it. Not sure if it was never finished or still being worked on. The Restrooms were immaculate so it was obvious they are maintained, but not a soul to be seen.
We had not brought any swimming suits so did not test the waters.
Then back down the rough road to Mitla.
The ruins there are indeed fascinating with intricate scroll design that the local weavers copy in their rugs. Far different then Monte Alban you enter a section requiring a bit of stooping to enter but well worth it.
Next you walk through a Artisa Market were we made a few small purchases before paying an entrance fee for the rest of the ruins. This includes two tombs that require some stooping almost crawling in the semi darkness, but again well worth the effort.
As we had worked up a large appetite we wanted something more than Taco Stand food so Manuel took us to Hotel Don Cenobio with lovely grounds, courtyard restaurant setting where we dined on Their Set Menu. Total cost for 4 including tip under 600 Pesos for a delicious meal.
After we checked out some rooms which while modest are lovely, neat & clean. Hopefully one day we can stay a couple of nights allowing us to explore more of this interesting city.
Then off to Manuel's home complex of a half a dozen homes around a enclosed huge courtyard. He demonstrated his process including dying of yarn, spinning & actual weaving which his children & Linda participated.
Linda picked out a couple of rugs having already chosen several others at his stall at the Market we returned to there picking up Linda's choices (6 gorgeous rugs for 2,500 pesos) then home after a long 10 hour day. We paid our driver 1,000 peso a excellent bargain considering the miles traveled & the time.
We arranged for our next trip to the Sunday market & more before parting company.
Next Museos Y Mas

How very nice that Linda struck up a conversation with Manuel at his market stall, and that because of that you made a friend and got a driver and guide and got to experience rug weaving processes at his home compound. I like her style. My guess is that you will always remember Manual when you and others are admiring your hand woven Oaxacan rugs. Those are the kind of surprises that make travel so great.

I recall about your friend John who loved Oaxaca from your previous posts while you were planning this trip. I imagine he was smiling the day you described above.

Don Cenobio sounds good! I have made a note of it as I have not been to Hierve del Agua. Still not sure we will venture there on our upcoming trip. Thanks for coming back to keep your report going.

Stewbear, what happened to you and your report....waiting to hear more. We leave for Oaxaca next Monday.