5 nights from Liberia to see sloths, birds, other critters and natural beauty--stay at Cano Negro?
 

Thanks for helping us with our first trip to CR last year when we took a short mental health break to Selva Verde and La Selva. Now we are going back to CR and taking my nephew and his girlfriend with us.

Dates/schedules aren't finalized for March, but it looks like airfares into LIR are much better than SJO for us. We'd expect to arrive around noon and fly out around 1pm with probably 5 nights in country.

Top priorities this time are flora and fauna (sloths are number 1), natural beauty, and small towns. Not doing any adventure stuff such as ziplines, canyoneering, white water rafting, or horseback riding. Don't care for hot springs or lying on the beach. Other complication is my husband would rather not come within 100 miles of a volcano, but my nephew thinks that would be "neat."

We prefer to use shuttle/van than drive. Worked well last time.

I've got some ideas, but need help from the experts!

Looks like private van from LIR to Monteverde possible on day of arrival (3 hrs $120). Perhaps in time for night hike else frog pond. Spend at least 2 nights in MV with early morning guided walk in one of the reserves, check out local crafts, maybe coffee?, other hikes/views?

Now the difficult part--the volcano, uncertainty of weather and husband's aversion. There are hotels across the lake at El Castillo. Do these offer view (when clear), but distance from the volcano? I was thinking we could ask the taxi/boat/taxi folks about taking the drive to these, staying overnight, then boat on across the next morning. Sounds inconvenient without a car.

My goal is Cano Negro and the rave reviews it gets here for wildlife and birds. In fact, that is my other big question. Has anyone stayed at Cano Negro Lodge rather than just done the day trip from Arenal? It looks like the place might be interesting for an overnight--take a longer boat ride or the canoes, walk/bike, etc. Has anyone done this? From what I've read here most people take the 1.5-hr van ride for a 2-hr Rio Frio boat ride and lunch, then 1.5-hrs back to Arenal (estimated $260 for us)though I see longer/more expensive wildlife refuge and kayak trips. A van only to get us from Arenal to Cano Negro is $120.

I know it would put us further from LIR for our return.

I tried a transport site and did say it offered transport $200 5 hs LIR-Cano Negro. I think my husband will cringe at a 5-hr ride either to or from the airport combined with the flights.

Suggestions?

Forgot to add--we would consider another location closer to LIR for the two nights rather than Cano Negro if the area offered birds and wildlife, etc. I'm finding little information on the Palo Verde National Park and the like. If someone can suggest a day or two in a coastal area, we would consider that as an option.

We did the Cano Negro tour and loved it but did not stay there; you will definitely see amazing wildlife. We saw howlers, capuchins, both kinds of sloths, caimans, and a wide variety of birds. It may be off your radar, but if you're interested in animals, I'd go to the Osa Peninsula. We stayed at Bosque del Cabo and saw all 4 kinds of monkeys, a sloth, etc. just right outside our cabin. Also toucans and wild scarlet macaws - it's a great spot.

Your post caught my eye. We share the same interests and would avoid the same things.

I'll be very interested in your planning and then your report.

White water rafting is a blast in Costa Rica but in March, water levels may be an issue for you. Do your research before you leave because they won't want to tell you that you'll be getting out of the raft to walk it over rocks. Some of the rivers maintain a more consistent water level. I've heard those are the deep trench type rivers where they use the two-man kayaks rather than rafts. We went down the Colorado (from Liberia) in kayaks in November and it was a really fun. Pretty tame except for one waterfall and the next set of rapids, but well worth the money.

You should have good weather in Arenal. It is starting to dry out there now. Observatory side is the best for viewing the action. Horseback riding in that area is great. Only place we saw a sloth.

Cano Negro is a trip you do not want to miss. Bring a camera with a zoom lense if at all possible. Those monkeys and birds will tend to blend in with the trees otherwise.

I think you might be interested in the Rio Celeste area. If you do a search there s a place called La Carolina that looks intriguing. (I've never been, but would like to)

El Castillo is on the volcano side of the lake. You might want to look into Neuevo Arenal or Tileran (?) for places further from the eruption area.

With just 5 nights I do think you are smart to look at areas between Monteverde and the airport for your second stop.

I see my mistake about El Castillo on the volcano side of the lake.

I have to get my husband to help me decide tonight. Yesterday I put some sale airplane tickets on hold until midnight tonight into LIR and out SJO with arrival 12:30pm and departure 3:00pm, but only 4 nights. Price has since jumped by $100 pp so either buy or switch to FF tickets. They just opened up with in LIR or SJO and out SJO with similar in/out times, but 5 days.

So maybe we can spend a day leaving MV, crossing lake, going to Cano Negro, overnight, tour the next day, then on to near SJO for departure. Makes the driving segments shorter than back to LIR and no volcano nearby at night.

Hotels appear to be available in MV, so working on emailing others.

I would recommend the Arenal Lodge as the best place to stay near Volcan Arenal. We just booked our fourth trip, for a week at the end of August. We use the Lodge as our 'base camp' for our trips to Cano Negro. (We haven't tried the Cano Negro Lodge.)

If your husband is concerned about being TOO close to the volcano, I agree -- some of the newer hotels are perilously close, and have been affected by pyroclastic flows. The Lodge is located at a safe distance, but with a great view.

Our son loved hiking around the volcano -- he was 8 during our last trip. He also joined us for kayaking on the Rio Frio, hiking in the jungle, the Hanging Bridges, etc.

Here are some tips for transportation, things to do in the area, the best adventure tours, best hiking trails, best time to visit, volcano viewing, etc

> Location:
Arenal Lodge is roughly 10 minutes outside of La Fortuna, the main town in the area -- well off the main road. This is a BIG plus. You are far from the bustle of the town, which has grown significantly due to the increase in tourism. The Lodge also sits on a 2,000 acre preserve, on the top of a hill, in the middle of the jungle. You will be awakened by howler monkeys in the morning -- instead of traffic noise. The view of the volcano is awesome.

> Getting There From the Airport:
The Lodge can arrange for a private shuttle from and to the international airports in San Jose or Liberia -- a great idea. If you have driven the mountain roads in Costa Rica, you'll agree! (We drove from San Jose on our first trip.) The front desk at the Lodge can arrange everything; ask for Rolando's transfer service.

> Local Transportation:
To hike the trails around Arenal Volcano, visit the Hanging Bridges, etc., you should rent car -- particularly if you plan to stay for 2+ days. With a car, you can explore on your own. The Lodge can arrange for a rental car / SUV to be waiting for you when you arrive, and you can leave it at the Lodge when you go. We always ask them to reserve a small SUV, e.g. a Toyota RAV. Local driving is safe and easy, but watch out for the potholes! (We also use Sunset Tours for kayaking and river rafting, where a guide and equipment are needed.)

> A Good "Home Base" for Adventure:
On our first trip in 1994, we started with the typical Costa Rica itinerary: a couple of days at Arenal, then on to Monteverde, then the beach. After we arrived at the Lodge, we cancelled everything else. We discovered that this the perfect "base camp" for hiking, kayaking, fishing, river rafting, trips to Monteverde, the Cano Negro preserve, etc. At the end of the day, we return to drinks on the balcony overlooking the volcano, and great food. No need to pack, drive and unpack. Now we typically spend a week or more at the Lodge.

> A Family-Friendly Place to Stay:
Everyone is very nice and helpful, from the front desk to the owner. They arrange everything when we stay -- fishing on Lake Arenal, river rafting, lunch for hikes around the volcano, the SUV rental, etc. The Lodge is also an ideal place for kids; private, small and personal. You don't have to worry. The new pool is a nice addition; my wife and I can relax after the day's adventure -- while our son swims and plays. In the evening, the rock lined hot tub is a romantic place for a couple.

> Excellent Restaurant:
If you're going to stay somewhere for a few days, it sure helps to have a great restaurant -- not the typical 'hotel restaurant'. Be sure to try the steaks and fish. The dining room has a wall of windows that overlook the volcano, and a deck that's nice for drinks in the evening.

> Best Rooms:
I strongly recommend the Junior Suites, Matrimonial Suite and the Master Suite -- which all have decks and great views of Volcan Arenal. The 'chalets' are good for larger families; they also have clear views of the volcano.

> Rain and Weather:
Arenal is located in the mountains, surrounded by rain forest. The temperature ranges between 70F and 80F, and varies by only 4 or 5 degrees yearound. The average annual rainfall in Nuevo Arenal is 4.2m (168"). It rains nearly every day from mid-May through February. During the short "dry season", rain still comes frequently however; a two-day break is rare. Typically this means a tropical downpour for a short time each day, followed by sun -- or a longer rain in the afternoon/night. (Think Maui.) Storms can blow in from the ocean, however, with steady rain for a couple of days. A light Goretex-style rain jacket is a very good idea for hikes, along with water/mud compatible shoes or boots.

> Best Time to Go:
We have tried different times of year, and prefer the 'green / low' season (summer). Tourist crowds are down, no lines at the entrance to Monteverde, rooms are less expensive -- and the frogs are out. (An amazing symphony at night!) We didn't notice much difference in the rain or the temperature.

> Best adventures:
Hikes, kayaking, river rafting, fishing, horseback riding -- or simply put your feet up on the deck, with an excellent margarita or Chilean wine! Here are some suggestions:

(1) Volcan Arenal in Action:

Volcan Arenal is one of the most active and consistent volcanoes in the world -- a natural wonder to see and hear, and ever changing. During our first visit, it sounded like 1,000 747 jets taking off, a howling roar. The last time, it was fairly quiet, with a periodic BOOM!, and a constant stream of hot lava rocks that cascaded down the side of the volcano. (Visible during the day, and glowing red at night.)

A few important notes: Don't expect fountains of lava, like the photos shown on many websites. Big eruptions like these occur only every few years. Don't expect a 'command performance' during a short stay; Arenal may be resting, or clouds may cover the summit. If you stay for a few days, however, or get lucky -- prepare to be impressed! Definitely try the hikes around the base of the volcano in the National Park; this is the best way to see Arenal up close. Bring binoculars and a good camera or video cam. Drive up to the Observatory or the hill behind the Laguna resort on a clear night, to watch the red hot lava rolling down. DO NOT hike beyond the "Peligroso!" signs. Fiery pyroclastic flows periodically race down the side of the volcano, and will kill everything in their path. You can't outrun them.

(2) Easy Hikes:

> There is a nice 'hike through the jungle' on a cobble-paved path at the back of the Lodge preserve. It takes about 30 minutes. The 'butterfly garden' is located at the entrance, with Blue Morpho and other Costa Rican butterflies. Depending on the time of day, you will hear (and sometimes see) howler monkeys moving through the tops of the trees.

> The National Park at the foot of the volcano has a number of good trails -- maps are available at the entrance. (You'll need to drive; the Park is 10 minutes from the Lodge or La Fortuna.) Try the "New Lava Beds" trail, which will take you to a recent lava flow. You can climb through the strange lava formations, with great views of the volcano. (This flow was still hot and steaming when we were there in 1994.)

> The "waterfall" hike that starts at Arenal Observatory is also easy and very nice. (The Observatory is roughly 20 minutes from the Lodge or La Fortuna. There is a small entrance fee for each vehicle.)

(3) Adventurous Hikes:

There are lots of options! One of our favorites is the Old Lava Beds trail, which starts on the back side of the Arenal Observatory, crosses a small river -- and heads up a ridge on the side of the volcano. The trail winds through the triple-canopy jungle. Good hiking shoes or boots are mandatory. As with any hike through the jungle, keep a sharp eye out for wildlife -- beautiful birds and very poisonous snakes! (Particularly when you climb / step over a log.) It isn't too tough; our son hiked with us when he was 8 years old. If you're lucky, Volcan Arenal will treat you to a thunderous BOOM! en route. Note: DO NOT go beyond the "Peligroso!" sign at the end of the trail. If you have seen the photos of the pyroclastic flows that periodically roar down the side of the volcano, you know why!

(4) The Hanging Bridges:

A must-see, for a small fee. The trail winds through virgin rain forest, with narrow suspension bridges across steep gorges. You walk through the tree canopy at different levels, with breathtaking views. A tip for the more adventurous: Also take the guided night tour. The jungle comes alive when the sun goes down. Our guide was an expert in everything that creeps, flies and crawls. (We brought our LED headlamps on the second trip, just for this adventure.)

(5) Kayaking:

Highly recommended! The Lodge can arrange kayaking on Lake Arenal and local rivers. You can glide up to jungle at the edge of the lake, and see wildlife that would never be visible when you're hiking. The Rio Frio is another great adventure -- roughly two hours away in the Cano Negro preserve near the border with Nicaragua. We saw caymans, rare Capuchin and Spider monkeys and sloths, and more exotic birds than we could count. (This is an easy flat-water paddle.) The Lodge will arrange everything with a local tour group, which isn't expensive. The guides are very knowledgeable. Note: for anyone who has never kayaked before -- try it here. All of the kayaks are "sit on tops". Absolutely no training or skill is required.

(6) River Rafting:

There are a number of excellent options. The 'Safari float' on the nearby Peñas Blancas river is great for families; an easy float, no rough water and lots of wildlife. (Our son held a poison dart frog -- and still talks about it.) The 'white water' runs on the Sarapiquí are more adventurous, but still a good choice for most families. Again, the guides were excellent and very knowledgeable. The Lodge can make the arrangements.

(7) Fishing on Lake Arenal:

For the more adventurous: You have to get up when the sun does, but this is an experience to remember -- even if you don't catch a thing. You will see the sun rising over the volcano, from a small boat in the middle of the beautiful lake. Our son hooked a nice rainbow bass on our last trip. We brought it back to the Lodge, and they served it for his dinner that night. The fishing guide is amazing; our son didn't speak much Spanish, and he didn't speak much English -- but they caught a fish together. Something he will always remember.

(8) Horseback Riding:

My wife tried this on our second trip and loved it. Trails wind through the Lodge preserve, to a view point at the crest of a hill. She said the guide is a true "horse whisperer" -- highly recommended.

(9) Just Relax!

This is also a great place to put your feet up, relax on your deck or by the pool, read a book, enjoy a glass of wine in the evening, etc. My wife and I both have serious careers, and this is a perfect place to unwind.

Enjoy!

Wow, your time is short. Personally I can't imagine doing Monteverde and Arenal with 5 nights, let alone 4. When we did Cano Negro (excellent as everyone says) we returned to La Fortuna about 3:00 in the afternoon. You could head straight for the airport area and make it before dark, more than likely--IF you return to LF that early. There are several hotels near the airport that are easy to find. I'll be anxious to hear what you decide.

We've done a 4 night trip to CR--twice. Focused on one area, though.
Good luck!

We decided to go the FF ticket route - holding tickets for in LIR, out SJO arrive 1pm and depart 4pm with 5 nights in between. So a little better than the first tickets we found.

Prefer just 2 locations--such as 2-3 nights in MV, then rest at CN, but not sure enough to really stay at CN that long. We are skipping Arenal area unless to taxi-boat-taxi around enroute to CN.

Nephew wants a cloud forest and it sounds like MV and SE are the place to go rather than the Los Angeles or more isolated Bosque de Paz with folks who want to also have a small town nearby. Would consider other options and see if can get tickets RT SJO, making a circuit up to Sarapiqui 2 nights, CN 1 night, and ? 2 nights.

We've found choices to stay in MV for 2-3 nights at Las Orquideas, Rustic, Los Jardines, Nidia or Los Pinos Cabinas, so quite a variety of types and locations to choose from, but filling up fast.

Rooms also available at Cano Negro. I see that Elderhostel uses them, which gives me some reassurance. Just still unsure if we want to overnight there or just take daytrip as most do. I saw a discussion about how most of the daytours go to the river, not the actual Cano Negro wetlands. I suppose to most tourists this doesn't matter so long as they see wildlife, but some locals are mad about the misrepresentation. Have to have a permit to enter the reserve, but not other parts of the river.

New entrant for second hotel location to access Cano Negro, but not be near the volcano--Tilajari Resort near Muelle. That could be our other 2-3 nights before on to SJO on the morning of our flight out.

I'm still thinking of the taxi-boat-taxi from MV to Fontana, then a pick up from there to transfer on. I see the route from MV to Fontana as part of our sightseeing trip, not just getting from one place to another.

I'm going to make the decision about the hotels today and then ask them to help with arranging the transfers. Else, I'd like to work with one company to arrange all the transfers. Anywherecostarica.com will arrange all these along with other stuff, but will consider other companies you recommend.

We enjoyed our stay at Tilajari a few years ago. It was a pretty setting on the San Carlos River. Most people these days like the view of the volcano from Arenal or La Fortuna. I tend to agree--it's something to see!

Our trip seems to be coming together.
We're on the nonstop flight to LIR and waitlisted for nonstop back from SJO.

Booked at Nidia Lodge in MV to take morning cloud forest hike, night walk. As mentioned before, we aren't doing canopy, zip lines, horseback riding etc.

Planning van-boat-van around the volcano. Now we need a spot to stop for lunch in Fontana area, take a break, then arranged pick up to go on to Tilajari. Will search posts here for ideas.

We are going to take the day trip to Cano Negro from Tilajari.

Last full day in CR we are hiring a driver to take us down through Zarcero, Sarchi, etc. (suggestions welcome) down to final night closer to SJO. Any stops you suggest along the way? How many hours has anyone spent doing this drive and sotpping?

Last night (Monday) could stay at El Cafetal to remain out in the country (husband keeps worrying I am choosing remote locations where he won't find dinner; something he never used to think about so food must become more important with age). Or, could stay somewhere more in town. Saw a recommendation for Out of Bounds, a hotel in Escazu. Looks like the two locations would be total opposites, but both within 30 minutes or so of SJO.



I'm going to make the decision about the hotels today and then ask them to help with arranging the transfers. Else, I'd like to work with one company to arrange all the transfers. Anywherecostarica.com will arrange all these along with other stuff, but will consider other companies you recommend.

Ah, we loved El Cafetal. It seldom gets mention on Fodors!

We walked up the road a short distance to a little soda for some comida tipica (typical Costa Rican food). Great views from there!

I would skip Sarchi and visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens -- great for kids of all ages. There is much to see/do. Then have your driver take you to Buena Vista Hotel in Alajuela. They will transfer you to the hotel the next day....inc in their reasonable rates.. and they serve a good steak. Our driver waited for us while we were at the waterfall gardens; they will give the driver a free lunch if you lunch also!

I apologize for my constant typing of Fontana rather than Fortuna--must be the years I lived in Tennessee and visited the Smokies and Lake Fontana.

I think we have agreement amongst our group and their desires to see native flora, fauna, and towns of CR as well as interest/aversion to volcano.

We're staying in MV for a couple of nights with plans to walk in cloud forest. The taxi-boat-taxi to La FORTUNA with an hour or two to lunch and wander around before van on to Tilajari--more comfort and more centally located than staying at Cano Negro. Day trip to Cano Negro already scheduled.

Take a day with driver down through towns to El Cafetal. (Still uncertain where to choose to stop in smaller towns, eat lunch, etc. I know the routes in the mountains are slower than might be expected by looking at the maps. I think I'll tell my nephew he has to choose which ones. This trip is a present for him, so he is getting to do alot of the choosing.)

Next afternoon on to SJO. Still hoping to get moved to nonstop flight home!

All the hotel and transportation service folks in CR have been very responsive and offer helpful suggestions.

We've made it to CR and back. I'll share some thoughts and experiences. Please excuse the spelling. Our group was my husband and I plus 20-year-old nephew and his travelling companion.

FF seats came through nonstop to LIR and back from SJO. I didn't realize how small LIR is--so much easier than larger airport. I didn't expect the strong wind.

We made some of our reservations directly, some via travel agent, some via hotel, etc. Only a few glitches. I now understand how most hotels there expect to do all your tour and transportation booking through their preferred companies.

Booked a private driver with SUV - Natural Travel Service - through Rolf Hanson at monteverdecostarica.info. Driver was waiting, vehicle fine, restaurant he chose along highway fine. After some phone calls about work, he needed to stop in Juntas, so we wandered a bit there, then we stopped briefly at his mother-in-law's to pick up a bag to take along home. Drive up to Monteverde was rough with lots of trucks, buses, and cows. Quite interesting.

We arrived in Monteverde just after dark and the Nidia Lodge. A budget place that was clean and basic. The pillows were uncomfortable and that night we heard occasional awful crashes on the roof in the extremely strong wind. We knew there were trees right by the building, but this was awful. Next day we saw that their name sign on the roof had come loose from its moorings and was swinging in the wind. They climbed up on the roof and removed the sign when we told them what what happening.
Found a small store for snacks, ate at the hotel.

Next day 7:30am tour at Monteverde Reserve. Booked online directly but could have had hotel do it. $7 taxi. We joined the early birdwatchers and gazed at half a dozen quetzals near the parking lot before the tour. Nice walk through the woods. Highlights a hummingbird on the nest, some monkeys, spiders, puma tracks. Then we walked on our own to the waterfall. Three of us agreed we could just wander the trails, find a spot to read etc. for hours in such a place. Back to entrance where we saw a coati, the hummingbirds, and an older man being carried out on stretcher by the guides. They said he just got tired; happens rather often with the older tour groups. Asked our guide to help us call a taxi at the gift shop. When it arrived, a group asked to share since it was a van and we headed into Santa Elena.

Wow! is that place hilly. And with the small roads without sidewalks outside of the center of town, we wouldn't risk walking even though our hotel wasn't far back uphill ($2 taxi). It is so small, yet becoming so touristy. One member of the party was not feeling well, not having a good time, etc. so got to chose restaurant for late lunch (a marginal hole in the wall place) and checked out the grocery and shops.

We walked next door to the Hidden Valley night walk. That was a highlight of trip. We saw a huge sloth that moved and scratched for us, porcupine, coatis, fox, agoudi. Made us wonder if they feed some of the wildlife to ensure such success.

Tried the ice cream shop I saw recommended here and it was great.

Next day our transfer did not show up. We had arranged through Rolf Hanson for Eagle Tours to take us on the jeep-boat-jeep, wander La Fortuna, then drive us to Muelle. We should have reconfirmed once in CR, but just forgot. When no one showed, we asked the staff at the hotel to phone and Eagle said they had no reservation. Phone for Hanson answered by a machine. Too late by now to catch the other company's departure, so our choice was to take an afternoon boat else book a driver. Three to one vote to hire a driver rather than risk problems in late afternoon. Hotel called and arranged one in 30 minutes.

We stopped at the driver's friend's house to pick up a kid to serve as return travel companion and at the driver's home to make last minute arrangements for him to leave town for the day. Then we were off on another bumpy road with different views. Stopped for lunch at fine place in Tilaran, photos, etc. Spotted a few birds along the way. We did not like this driver's habits once on the paved road--fast down the middle until forced back to his own side by oncoming traffic in the rain. We were also introduced to the drivers' navigation system on this trip--ask anyone walking down the road for directions.

Once we were in La Fortuna we were glad we weren't staying there. It was just too crowded with tourists and tourist attractions for our trip. So it was on to Muelle.

Tilajari Resort was a nice choice for our purpose. Although dominated by 3 groups--a SAGA tour group, a smaller group of Germans, and a soccer team--there were also many individual travelers like us. The hotel rooms were tiled, air conditioned, with comfortable beds, TV, telephone, and balconies/patios. The restaurant was good. The grounds were nicely landscaped and fruit put out, so there were many birds and huge iguanas. It offers a pool, horseback riding, tennis courts, pool table, etc. It is isolated and self contained. No walking to restaurants or stores.

We had booked the Cano Negro tour the next day, so Sunset Tours stopped by to pick us up with the folks they brought from La Fortuna. We stopped to see the other variety of sloth (great when they look at you). On the boat we saw two types of monkeys (though not as up close personal as at Selva Verde last year), many variety if not quantity of birds, also bats, caimens, etc. We were probably out about 3 hours. As I had read somewhere, these tours are using the river, not the reserve, so we rode up to the sign for people to take photos saying welcome to Cano Negro, but then we did not proceed. Simple lunch, then back in the van for the bumpy road out. Good visibility of Arenal that afternoon on the drive.

We found the heat and riding on slow bumpy roads was fatiguing, so several afternoons we all crashed for short naps then a shower before dinner. Totally out of character.

We just relaxed for the evening--movie on TV, sitting in the bar, using flashlights to look for nightlife (armadillo), washed out a few shirts.

Then up again at 5:30am with the birds (could hear them over the sound of the a/c each day) for a walk to see them and the squirrels waking up. After another buffet breakfast, we were on the road again.

We booked this driver through Tilajari and he was a 17-year employee of the resort. Nicest SUV we rode in. The nephew had chosen Sarchi as destination. We went to Zarcero and did the photos, on through the gorgeous fields with photo stops, then a roadside stand, and on to Sarchi. I am not much of a shopper, so I found the coop store rather large. I did watch the painters for awhile while the "kids" shopped. Then we went to the oxcart maker's shop. That was another highlight seeing the waterpowered machines, the old wheels, etc., then on to see their giant creation in the park. On we drove to a great roadside restaurant for lunch. Then on toward El Cafetal--with several pull overs to ask directions from pedestrians.

El Cafetal was an interesting place. Again rather isolated, amongst its coffee, orange, and sugar cane fields, but with scattered houses and the associated dogs, chickens, motorbikes, etc. We walked up to a nearby corner soda for soda, then walked among the fields and down to the river. Nothing too interesting except a HUGE lizard and a kingfisher that tried to startle me while I was making a stream crossing on a log. Another nice pool. Another nice balcony/patio (they gave us tower rooms though I had only reserved basic rooms). No a/c but not needed at night (hot in the afternoon), no TV, no phone. OK dinner in their restaurant; good breakfast.

We asked El Cafetal to arrange a driver for the next morning's trip, then to SJO. Our constantly outvoted companion was given the choice of destinations for the morning and chose Doka so we asked them to book us for the tour. We drove off in a taxi for the 45-minute drive and joined 4 others for the tour of sample plants, the washing, sorting, drying, and roasting process. It was past harvest time so we didn't go into the fields. Exit through the coffee sampling and gift shop (of course). It was interesting. I always learn something on these tours. Unfortunately, only 2 of us drink coffee, so the sampling not so special for us.

We then headed to SJO and arrived 2 hours before scheduled time. Quickly through the departure tax line, but long checkin. I still had Medallion status, so it was shorter for us than for most. Then a long, but quickly moving passport line, then the sluggish security lines since they just aren't physically set up to process that many people quickly. On to the welcome a/c waiting area only to find our flight delayed 30 minutes, but that gave our companions time to catch up on some fast food and do last minute shopping.

So, a successful, if relatively limited activity trip (by our usual standards). We enjoyed all our destinations and achieved our goals of seeing sloths and other animals plus birds in different destinations than our first CR trip last year. We got to see Arenal from a distance without stopping anywhere near the active volcano. We interacted with lots of nice, helpful Costa Ricans. We overcame the problems we encountered without letting them spoil the trip. And everyone came home healthy.

Thanks for all the help.

kay,
Thanks for posting. I particularly enjoyed your report since we've stayed at both Tilajari and El Cafetal and we thought they were both great places--and reasonable. They don't get much mention on Fodors. Sounds like a fun trip!

Yes, we were happy with the choices. My nephew reported that we stayed at a "fancy resort" with a "nice restaurant" meaning Tilajari, which impressed him as we are definitely budget travellers, but for $100 per room per night (with a/c, tv, etc.), including the buffet breakfast, it definitely was a value. So the strategy of save in MV, splurge at Tilajari worked.

A birder who came on the Cano Negro tour from La Fortuna was really jealous and wanted to know how we found Tilajari. From a glance at the grounds he knew he would have enjoyed himself there more.

Interesting that you mention that. We stayed there before I became interested in birding. We spent quite a bit of time exploring the grounds, but as for the birds, I'm pretty sure I scarcely gave them a glance. Hard for me to believe NOW! I do remember them putting out fruit to feed them and remember seeing interesting birds, but that was as far as my interest went. We'll have to stay there again sometime--and I'll take my binoculars! :)