1st Timer's Trip Report : 11/16 - 11/24

Old Nov 26th, 2004, 08:10 PM
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1st Timer's Trip Report : 11/16 - 11/24

My wife (still getting used to saying that!) & I have just returned from our Costa Rican honeymoon, and it was better than I could have even imagined. I will be posting a day by day rundown of our trip in this thread, as promised before I left. It was the first trip to Costa Rica for both of us, so for all of y'all that are planning your first trip to Costa Rica, it may help you out to have the perspective of another "rookie". Be back soon w/ the start of my trip report.

And yes, we were in the Quepos / Manuel Antonio area for the big earthquake!
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Old Nov 26th, 2004, 08:57 PM
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11/16 - After months of planning & pestering fodors forum members for advice, the day had FINALLY arrived! My wife & I landed at the airport in San Jose each carrying a 21" carry-on suitcase, & a small school-type backpack. This turned out to be MORE than enough for an eight day trip. We brought the backpacks mostly empty to bring back souvenirs.

Since our flight landed at about 1:30 pm (too late for a puddle-jumper flight), we had hired a private driver to drive us to Tulemar Bungalows near Quepos. We walked out of the airport & looked for our driver. 1st timers, let me tell you, when you walk out of the airport you will be SWARMED by Taxi drivers, shuttle drivers, Ticos wanting to make a cell phone call for you to get a tip, etc. However, outside the airport is the only place we ran into things like that, so when you see it, don't rush to judgement about how the trip is going to be. Quite the opposite, most Ticos we met on the trip were very laid back, friendly, & eager to help, without swarming us or constantly trying to sell you something.

Our original driver was not at the airport due to car trouble, but our travel agent - Pat Hewitt from Costa Rica Travel Exchange (www.lovecostarica.com) made arragements promptly for Luis from the Orquideas Inn to drive us. We could not have been happier. The 3 hour drive from the airport to Tulemar flew by as Luis filled us in on info & stories about every town we passed through, and Costa Rican culture in general. When we crossed over the Tarcoles river, he stopped so we could view all the crocodiles that gather near the bridge.

(Continued in next post)
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Old Nov 26th, 2004, 08:57 PM
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About 1 1/2 hours outside of Quepos it started to rain. HEAVILY. The rest of the drive was spent in the downpour which slowed us down some, but eventually we made it to Tulemar around 6 pm. This was well after sundown so we did not get a view of the property until the next day (more on that it the day two review!). Diego from Tulemar gretted us at the reception desk and told us "from this point on, you are in our hands." That kinda creeped me out a bit, haha. He sent Luis on his way and began apologizing profusely for the rain, telling us it hadn't rained in 5 days. Since this is the tail eand of rainy season, that got me worried. I figured it would rain for the next 5 days then! Luckily I was wrong.

We were driven too our bungalow, and since it was rainy we decided to order room service. The food was good, but like most room service a bit over-priced. The room was gorgeous. We stayed in the upper level of one of the "Villas", as opposed to the regular Bungalows. The regular bungalows are nice, but in my opinion it is well worth it to spend the extra $20 a night or so for the Villa. If anyone is interested in pictures of the room I will be glad to email some to you.

Since we had been up since 2:00 am that morning to catch our red-eye flight, we went to bed early. Plus it was our honeymoon...no more details on that part. Haha!

Sorry if this is getting long winded. Day two is coming up soon!
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 04:41 AM
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It may be long-winded, but your report has been fun to read and to see it through your eyes, arriving for the first time and on your honeymoon as well--looking forward to the rest! And congratulations!!!
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 04:42 AM
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Well, that was tacky of me to say "it may be long winded". I only meant "keep it coming--long winded is GOOD!"
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 06:21 AM
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Isn't Luis the greatest driver and guide? We had him from the Las Orquideas for a day to see the Orosi Valley and surrounding area. Such a nice young man and so knowledgable about his country.
It was our first trip to Costa Rica in Sept. also so I am really enjoying your report. Keep going!
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 07:05 AM
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Looking forward to the rest of your report, sounds like you're off to a great start! When I do go back to MA, I have been thinking about getting 1/2 of a villa so would love to see your pics, please send them to [email protected] whenever you have a chance. Thanks!
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 08:02 AM
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Tully - I'll send them out soon. I recommend getting the top 1/2 of the Villa like we did. The bottom half is just a bed & bathroom. The top half has a full living room, kitchen, larger deck, & even a little electric grill if you wish to cook.

The day two report is coming as soon as I get a chance to type up the next long-winded novella! Haha.
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 05:30 PM
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11/17 – Woke up about 8:00 am, which ended up being the latest we slept in the entire trip. A note - normally I am not a morning person – much more of a night owl, staying up until 2:00 am on a nightly basis. But, once in Costa Rica you will undoubtedly find yourself up early in the morning for the duration of your trip as sundown is around 5:00-5:30 pm nightly, so it’s the only way to get all the daytime activities in. Anyway, I flung open the drapes like a kid running downstairs on Christmas morning to see what’s under the tree. All I can say is “WOW!” . The view of the Pacific Ocean creeping up behind the forest was just plain spectacular. Being from the Chicago area, that first view alone was worth the price of our stay.

After all the stress of a loooooooong wedding week, we decided we were just going to hang out on Tulemar’s private beach the first day and just relax. But first we hiked up the trail for our first breakfast in the open-air restaurant. Tulemar features a full breakfast buffet included in the price, which seems to be typical to a lot of the hotels. Bacon, pastries, cereal, meats & cheeses, omelets made to order, plantains, and of course the ever-present beans & rice were all featured, as well as freshly squeezed juices.

After stuffing ourselves, we headed to the beach. Tulemar offers a free shuttle service to the private beach, since the property is so steep, but we decided to hike down the dirt trail through the forest instead. Good choice.

(continued in next post)
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 05:40 PM
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11/17 (continued) - On our way to the trail we saw 10-15 white faced monkeys hanging out. As I soon found out, the white-faced monkeys don’t like people all that much, so it became a favorite activity of mine all week to see how angry I could make them at me! This usually resulted in them shaking the tree branches, screeching, and throwing whatever kind of nut, fruit, or bean they could find at me. My wife would just roll her eyes. The trail to the beach was nice and not nearly as steep as made out to be. It even ran past a couple nice little waterfalls.

The beach itself is in a nice little protected cove , so it is free of riptides & gives you a secluded feel. There is a little bar on the beach where the bartender Claudio will mix you up any number of fruitly tropical drinks made w/ fresh fruit. My wife loved them all, most of all the “Chi-Chi”, which was a variation on a pina colada. It was at this bar that I first tasted the sweet nectar that would sustain me for the rest of the week…Imperial Beer. I can only describe it as the Costa Rican version of Pabst Blue Ribbon, but I mean that in a good way. Of course, I have a lot of Missouri blood running through my veins from my father’s side, so maybe it’s just the hillbilly in me that liked it so much.

The beach had snorkeling equipment , sea kayaks , and boogie boards all free for our use, and use them we did. I never knew relaxing could tire me out so much! After a hard day of relaxing, we decided to take a cab into Quepos about 3:00 pm.

(continued in next post)
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Old Nov 27th, 2004, 05:54 PM
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We grabbed lunch at a little Mexican restaurant called Dos Locos. I had the chimichangas, my wife had a taco platter. The food was pretty good, but VERY overpriced, even the Imperial! I’m sure you can find better food downtown for a lot less. We strolled around downtown for a few hours, looking at all the little shops & just people watching. My wife bought a little handmade handbag, & me in all my classiness bought a t-shirt with the phrase “Tomese su Birrita” on it & featured a picture of a cow being milked for what else…Imperial Beer! Best $3 shirt I ever bought, haha.

After wandering around all day, and getting a LOT of sun for my poor winter-ready Chicago skin, we decided to just grab a pizza from one of the little Soda’s on the street corner and bring it back to our room to try the Tico take on pizza. It was greasy goodness, a perfect compliment to the Imperial I picked up at the supermercado. Day two was our only trip to downtown Quepos, as there eneded up being plenty of restaurants, etc. within walking distance of Tulemar.

That just about does it for day two. Day three is coming soon!
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 04:48 AM
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Great report , makes me wish I was There !! I just wanted to add one thing which could potentially scare some people , I did not find we were swarmed as we exited the airport at all . A few people approached us , but once we would tell them we had arrangements they said great etc. Thats All ! Keep reporting ! Faith
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 06:20 AM
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airwayvz - got your pics, thanks so much. Tulemar does indeed look great - that deck!! - and though I lived Costa Verde hotel I just may have to make a switch on my next visit. I'm glad to know also I am not the only one who takes pics of my hotel rooms!

When coming out of the SJO airport, I've found the best thing is to do a left-handed 180 turn right into the little cafe area they have set up & grab an Imperial. Although the taxi rank is chaotic, it is pretty well controlled too by the guards who keep them on the other side of the small fence - great place to people-watch.
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 06:21 AM
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meant I loved Costa Verde, not lived, but I guess I did that too!
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 07:04 AM
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We'll be staying at Tulemar in a bungalo in March and would love to see your pictures too! Could you e-mail them to [email protected]?
Also, would you recommend spending the whole day at their beach? We'll be with our three kids; 14, 18, and 22. How was the snorkling and kayaking? (I've never kayaked, but would love to try, and my daughter would like to try and snorkle.) Is the beach crowded? Is the open-air restaurant nice? Does it have a view?
Great trip report -- I'm really enjoying it.
Congratulations,
Laurie
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 08:08 AM
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Congratulations on your marriage! May you have a wonderful and long, happy life together!!!

What a terrific report (and so nice to find as I settle down to the computer after all the holiday celebrations.)

Could you send the pictures to [email protected]?

Thank you...
Sharon
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 08:43 AM
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Hey, would love to see the photos, if you don't mind. [email protected]
And thanks for taking the time to write up your trip report--its great!We're thinking of celebrating our 15 year anniversity by taking our daughters (13 & 11) to CR.
Hopefully in 15 years you'll be doing the same thing!!
pete
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 09:41 AM
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Laurie - you could definitely spend the whole day at the beach if you wanted- just depends on how much you like relaxing in the sun. I recomeend catching at least one sunset there! It's small, but never croweded because it's a private beach for Tulemar guests only. I believe there are only about 19 bungalows, so there's no way for it to get "crowded".

The kayaking is great for a first-timers, because it's in a protected bay, so the waters are fairly calm. The snorkling was a little murky when we were there, but I hear it comes & goes.

The view from the restaurant is SPECTACULAR. You'll eat breakfast there every morning, but for a family I'd recommend eating most of your other meals elsewhere based on the prices. Food is good though. There is actually a GREAT inexpensive restaurant right next door to Tulemar called Cantina Salsipuedes. I'll get more into that place in my day three report, coming soon- haha!

As far as the pictures, I think I'm going to find a free website where I can post them - it'll be faster for all involved. anybody know of a good one?
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 12:34 PM
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Great report! I laughed at your description of the white-faced monkeys. They look so cute and friendly - NOT!
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Old Nov 28th, 2004, 01:47 PM
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Hi-great report! You can try Shutterfly.com. for posting your pictures. Easy to use and free. I have seen some on Yahoo, but don't know much about that. I can't wait to see your pictures. We are going in Feb. Thanks!
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