Riffic

The thread title is the slogan of the Pfalz Region?arguably Germany?s best wine-growing region. We made a rather quick, 2-day trip last weekend, and I thought I?d share my experiences in greater detail this time around.

The purpose of the trip was two-fold: visit the annual Deidesheim Wine Fest and restock our ever-dwindling wine supply. If anyone has been to German wine country for wine fests, then you know how much fun they are. For those who haven?t, check out information here:

http://www.pfaelzer-weinfest.de/


We chose Deidesheim because it is one of the biggest and most popular of the wine fests. Two years ago, we visited a very small village fest and we wanted some variety.

We had made reservations at the hotel Steigenberger in Deidesheim
http://www.steigenberger.de/servlet/PB/menu/1004965_l1/ , but were unfortunately surprised a few days before the trip with news that the incessant rain fall had caused the hotel?s garage to partially collapse, cutting electricity and making lots of water damage. Alas, the hotel had to close for repairs.

We scrambled to find another room at such late notice and had to settle for the next town, Bad Dürkheim, at the Kurpark Hotel http://www.kurpark-hotel.de . This hotel is situated in the town-center adjacent to the beautiful Kurpark gardens.

Bad Duerkheim is one of the largest villages in the Pfalz, but definitely has a lot of character and is worth the visit, if you're in the area.

Travel time was roughly 3.5 hours from Munich via Karlsruhe on the A-8, and then northward. Traffic was moderate and thankfully there were no traffic jams on heavily traveled the A-8. The A-8 is by far my least favorite road in Germany because of the 120 kph speed limit between München & Stuttgart.

The Kurpark Hotel is a large and antiquated 4*, seemingly catering to the Pensioners (avg. age approx 72). Our rate for double/breakfast was 101 Euro. The best asset of the hotel is the Kurpark Gardens immediately adjacent to the back of the hotel. With the flowers in full bloom and playing of dueling church bells in the background, it is a very relaxing place to sit and relax.

Before attending the Winefest in Deidesheim, we visited various vineyards, tasting and buying. Here?s a great website for Pfalz Vineyards

http://www.gaultmillau.de/weinguide-...3?gebiet=Pfalz

Here is a list of our preferred vineyards:

Wachenheim:
(our all-time favorite!) WEINGUT DR. BÜRKLIN-WOLF
67157 Wachenheim
Weinstraße 65
Tel. (06322) 95330
Fax 953330

Deidesheim:
Bassermann-Jordan
Weingut Geheimer Rat
Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan
Kirchgasse 10 ? 67142 Deidesheim
Tel.: 0 63 26 / 60 06 ? Fax: 0 63 26 / 60 08

Reichsrat von Buhl

Weinstrasse 16 ? D-67146 Deidesheim ? Tel.: 0 63 26 / 96 50 0 ? Fax: 0 63 26 / 96 50 24

Josef Biffar
Weingut Josef Biffar
Niederkirchener Straße 13 - 15
D-67146 Deidesheim
Tel.: +49 (0)63 26 - 96 76 - 29
Fax: +49 (0) 63 26 - 96 76 - 11
Siebeldingen
Ökonomierat Rebholz
Inhaber: Hansjörg Rebholz
76833 Siebeldingen
Weinstraße 54
Tel. (06345) 3439
Fax 7954

Forst:

Forster Winzerverein
Weinstr. 57, 67147
Tel. 06326 306, Fax 06326 1391

A newly discovered out-of-the-way restaurant we enjoyed is Zur Wehr in Forst. Rather Cheap food in some of the biggest portions your eyes have ever seen!

The Deidesheim Wine Fest is focused mainly on 1 street in the city center, lined with countless kiosks serving up all kinds of food from Wurst, to steaks, to Crepes, to candy necklaces (yes, that quintessential American candy!) and, of course, sekte and white wine. Wine is served in HALF LITER glasses or, for the weaker ones out there, ? liter glasses. At an avg of 5 Euro per half liter glass, you don?t need many Euro to get in the festive spirit!

After waking up and feeling very slow this Sunday morning, we had a very good breakfast (quite a large spread?even by German standards). Unfortunately, it was too cold to eat on the terrace overlooking the Kurpark gardens. This would be a real treat when staying at this hotel when the weather is good.

Having consumed enough wine the previous days, we decided to show our friends a bit of Heidelberg, about 40 minutes NE of the Pfalz. Actually, I just needed a Starbucks fix, and, to date, Heidelberg Starbucks is the closest one to Munich. Turning our friends loose to explore the Castle high atop the Altstadt, down Hauptstraße I scampered to that Beacon of Light serving up my favorite java. Of course, it?s packed as usual, just like in Barcelona, Vienna and Berlin?yes, even Europeans like this stuff , and I start with the usual?tall black coffee of the day (I?m a simple man).

Between coffee runs, we hiked up Philosophweg, the trail leading up the riverbank opposite the castle, for spectacular views of the city. On my third any final trip to Starbucks, I also grabbed the last pack of Tazo Chai Tea in the store and one of the Heidelberg CityMug Collections. By then, I?ve made friends with the staff, and when I tell them I?ve driven from Munich special for their coffee, they tell me

STARBUCKS WILL OPEN IN MUNICH THIS DECEMBER. I just hope this is not a sick joke!

Next week, the sister-in-law comes, as we?ve taken advantage of the recent USAirways Diamond-in-the-Rough sale, and if the weather cooperates, we?ll make a run to Bamberg (Rufus-T-Firefly if you read this, I?d love for you to send me your report on the city?but I search and search for it in vain) and I?ll let you know if we find anything good.

Shanna

Hi Riffic - the Pfalz is an area I recommend heartily to anyone going to Germany. Unlike other areas, it is so non-American tourist and the wine - the wine!! I was there 3 years in October, wonderful warm weather, and stayed in Freinsheim, the town my paternal ancesters emigrated from in 1728. They had a small festival with a variety of wines and good food. So many wonderful small towns along the Weinstrasse. I loved Deidesheim (the town just smells good) and I look for Deidesheimer wine all the time but can seldom find it in the States. They keep the good stuff at home. And enjoyed the beer - (Bellheimer particularly) - but I was alone and driving so I could not indulge too much. I brought back as much wine as I could carry but it wasn't enough. I picked up some delicious liqueurs in Bad Durkheim - they didn't last long! Thanks for posting your report - it brought back great memories.

mikemo

Riffic und Shanna,
Love die Pfalz, but ...
Alsace, FR is way better!
M

Riffic

mikemo,

I also love Alsace. In the past 2-3 years, we've visited both Alsace and Pfalz at least 4 times. I think that for the average (or even more seasoned) US traveler, Alsace is more comfortable because the place caters much more to English speakers (while certainly maintaing. During mid to high season, I think the high number of people who visit alsace actually make the villages more inviting. In march 04, we took visiting relatives to our normal haunts (Obernai, Ribeauville, Kaysersberg, Riquewihr) and due to the poor weather, the places were like ghost towns and much less charming.

Food: Alsace wins by a lot. Flammkuchen, tarte L'onion and escargot!

Wine: To us, many Alsatian wines have a 'soapy' aftertaste to it, so we rarely bring a lot home with us. The dryest German Pfalz whites are our favorites whites to drink.


Shanna - when the time comes to move back to the US, I will certainly feel your pain! My plan is to acquire many many bottles now and include them in the move back the US. I certainly hope customs goes easily on us. Maybe if I mark the boxes 'Miscellaneous'? ;-)

RufusTFirefly

Hi Riffic--I'm in a hotel room in Atlanta trying to use their TV based web browser with a lousy keyboard. I can't find my report either! But here's some info from memory.

Do try to stay in the Altstadt on the river. We liked Hotel Brudermuehle--it is right on the Regnitz a stone's throw from the old Rathaus. We were in a corner room--I think it was room one. One window looked up the river with a perfect view of the Rathaus on its bridge, the other across the river, including a view of the kayakers practicing in the rapids created by the little dam (weir? wier?) right below the window. 2 cautions--bathrooms are small, though modern. Room 1 gets the water noise if you leave the windows open--not a problem for us, but might bother some. Breakfast was very good--variety and plentiful. A very nice restaurant as well.

Another one on the river that looked good is the St. Nepomuk (not sure about the spelling). We originally tried to get rooms in a less expensive Gasthaus, but all sold out, including the brewery ones.

The Altstadt is beautifuly--note that Bamberg is hilly, so take it slow if not in good shape. The cathedral is famous--Bamberg Rider stature is well known, Emperor Heinrich (think that's his name) and his consort buried there. A Pope whose name I forget buried in Bamberg as well.

It was an imperial city, so the old palace, government buildings, etc. are all interesting Many little museums scattered about-including an interesting one in the old RAthaus. Note the murals on the outside walls of the Rathaus--some have what at first seems to be a great 3-D effect, because the artists actually incorporated sculptures that stick out of the wall.

We enjoyed dining at the Brudermuehle, but another pleasant small place is just on the other side of the Rathaus bridge. Just at the other end of the bridge on your left as you cross was a little bar and cafe that had the word "Schaenke" in it. I know I have written it up in other posts here when people asked about restaurants.

The Altstadt is great for just wandering around, too. There is a small area called little Venice, and there are boat tours available.

I'll post more as I think of it.

Riffic

Thanks for the info, RufusTF!

We plan to visit Bamberg from Munich (a long day trip) on Saturday, but wouldn't you know it that, according to the extended forecast, the only day with rain scheduled is Saturday

If it rains on Sat., we'll wait until the following weekend. Hopefully, one of those days will work out for us.