enzian

This is the reverse of the "Where should I stay near the Zürich airport prior to a morning departure" question. We will be arriving in Zürich in late afternoon, after a long flight from Seattle. The following day, we will take the train to Stuttgart for a meeting. There are easy train connections between the two cities, taking about 2 h 45 m, so there is no real need to go partway. But I'm wondering if it would be pleasant and restful to spend our arrival night in one of the small towns along the route, specifically Bülach (which seems to have lots of advocates here) or Schaffhausen, rather than in Zürich itself. Last time we did stay in Zürich and we enjoyed wandering around the oldtown area, as well as a nice dinner at La Mere Catherine. But we might like something different next time (which will be next June---I know I'm early, but I have fun planning way ahead).

So what I am looking for is advice and recommendations. We like a place where we can stroll and stretch our legs after the long flight and before bedtime, preferably on a riverside or lakeside promenade, or a pedestrian zone. We'd also like a nice dinner. As for the hotel, we prefer warmth, friendliness and charm to glitz and 5 stars.
Also, we'd like to keep it below 300 CHF if possible; that would be for a triple room because our daughter will be along. Not all the hotels I have seen mentioned here as favorites offer triples. The Adler in Zürich is one I am considering because they do mention 3-bed rooms on the website. The Zum Goldenen Kopf in Bülach offers them as well, and their dinner menu looks very nice. I haven't seen any mention of Schaffhausen here at all, so I'm curious about that too. I have seen praise for Stein am Rhein, but that would be a train change and another 25 minutes past Schaffhausen, which we'd like to avoid.

Thank you for you help.

Budman

I was on a website today that showed the Adler as a 2**, so if you are looking for 5***** or so?

Bulach is only a couple of miles north from the airport. I'm not sure of train connections.

We stayed at the Intercontinental in Zurich which we got on Priceline for less than $100. 2-3 miles from the main train station in Zurich.

waggis

I have been intrigued by jmw's trip report and her overnight stay in Bülach before her return flight. It seems to me this location and hotel (Goldenen Kopf) would fit the bill for your requirements perfectly. Since you're only planning to spend a very short time, save Schaffhausen for another occasion when you have time to visit the Rhine Falls, the Munot and Stein am Rhein among other things.

enzian

Hi Budman---no, we are definitely not looking for a 5-star (especially not for 300 CHF!). Two or three stars are about right for us in Switzerland. And unfortunately, Priceline doesn't work very well for a room for three---at least, I haven't figured out how to make it work.

Our main interest is in a place that would offer pleasant strolling after we arrive, to counteract the jetlag. So city center, whether in Zürich or a small town like Bülach, would be best.

enzian

waggis---since Schaffhausen is right on the direct train line we will be using, it would make a nice stop even if we have a short time. Is the Munot interesting? We would have half the day to spend there the following day; we don't have to be in Stuttgart before early evening. I have actually seen the Rhein Falls, but it was a long, long time ago, and my family hasn't seen it. Could we walk there from Schaffhausen?

waggis

Yes, you could walk to the falls or go by bus, depending on your hotel's location.
www.map.search.ch/Schaffhausen.en.html will give you a good view of the general area.

The Munot was built as a fortress at the highest point above the city. The view is of more interest, I think, than the actual structure. You can walk up through the surrounding vineyards, which belong to the city of Schaffhausen. They're very proud of their "Munoetli" (wine). There's no entry fee. What time of year will you be there?

enzian

This will be next June, at the end of the month. (I like to think ahead about these things!) And a one or two-hour walk to the Munot and then back down through vineyards sounds perfect. I've printed out the "Gastgebenerverzeichnis" from the Schaffhausen Tourismus website, so I can look into hotels.

But I'm still torn between this and Bülach or Zürich itself. I wonder if Schuler or Swandav might be around to respond?

altamiro

The problem with Bülach is that it is too small. Schaffhausen has a lot to offer for a day, it has a very nice old town area (bigger than Bülach), Rhine falls, Munot, wineyards etc. While Bülach has only the small, though nice, old town.
One thing to consider - the rail line between Bülach and Schaffhausen is closed for repairs right now. I am not sure when they reopen, have a look at the SBB website. The trains from Zürich to Stuttgart, which normally go through and mostly stop at Bülach, are redirected via Winterthur.

isabel

How about Lucern? I know it's in the opposite direction of where you are going next but it meets all your criteria. It has a fabulous old town, on the river and lake- great for walking. The train station is in the city center, and the train from Zurich airport is direct (no need to change in Zurich itself) and less than an hour. It would be a perfect place to spend an arrival afternoon and evening, although it would add time to your train trip the next day. I'd consider it if it were me though.

The Goldener Stern Hotel is a 5 minute walk from the train station. Most of their rooms are ensuite doubles, but on the top floor are 3 smallish double rooms that share a bath room and toilet room. If you took two of them it would be pretty private. When we were there no one was in the other rooms. I think it was about 100 swiss francs per room.

enzian

Thanks for your responses.

Isabel---we will be returning to Switzerland for 2 weeks after the Stuttgart meeting, so can visit Lucerne then. I'll look into the hotel you sugested.

Altamiro--thank you for the information on the line between Bülach and Schaffhausen. I put in a random date in September on the SBB website to check the routes and schedules, but it didn't show this track closure. We'll be going next June, so it shouldn't be a problem. But it's looking more and more like Schaffhausen might be the place for us. I just haven't seen anyone here mention it before as a place to overnight.

WallyKringen

Trains from Bülach to Schaffhausen seem to run just fine. But do you really want to get off the plane and make two train trips to get to either Bülach or Schaffhausen? You can't do it in one hit from the airport, you have to go either via Zürich HB or via Winterthur, or - in the case of Bülach - via Oerlikon.

Why not just go to Zürich that has more to offer of anything you want, from leg-stretch in the old town to boat-ride to you-name-it. Get a hotel near the central station Hauptbahnhof and be done with it?

Then you can build a Schaffhausen stopover into your train schedule for Stuttgart - there's nothing to stop you from spending a few hours in the Schaffhausen region (and the lovely Stein am Rhein!) before picking a later train for Stuttgart.

enzian

WallyKrinen---thanks! I consulted the SBB website again, and realized I could get to Stein am Rhein thru Winterthur with only one stop. . . and then I came to the same conclusion as you---our best course it to spend the night in Zürich, and then stop in Stein am Rhein and/or Schaffhausen along the way the following day.

So now I'll look back through the threads for hotel suggestions in Zürich. Last time we stayed in a family room at Hotel Bristol (quite near the Hauptbahnhof), but now we'd like to be closer to (or in) the Altstadt.

altamiro

>You can't do it in one hit from the airport, you have to go either via Zürich HB or via Winterthur, or - in the case of Bülach - via Oerlikon.

You can get to Bülach from the airport without changes - there is a regular bus connection.

waggis

June should be a great time to see the Rhine Falls, enzian. That's the time the water level would normally be the highest. You notice, I said "normally", who can tell anymore

If you overnight in Zürich, your train ride will take less than an hour. You could take the train directly to "Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall" but you would need to find out about luggage storage at that station; or to the Schaffhausen main railway station, where you would depart from on your way to Stuttgart and which would afford you more opportunities to visit the town, even though it's farther from the falls.

enzian

Thanks, waggis. I think that's what we'll do---stay in Zürich, then get off the train in Schaffhausen for lunch and a walk to the falls the next day. I'm sure they'll have luggage lockers there. We'll have 3 or 4 hours to spend before we have to continue on the Stuttgart.

jmw44

Hi. I'm sorry I missed out on this exchange. Bulach is my place of choice for the last night because there's a 15-minute bus direct to the flughafen (Plenty of connections in reverse as well)and a fine dose of picturesque peace and quiet in the evening. But you know, I would have agreed that Schaffhausen is a very nice city. I loved the old town architecture. The falls were impressive, but I didn't know about the possibility of vineyard walks. I suppose I'll just have to go back someday. J.

cparris

We just stayed at the Adler in Zurich and had a three bed room...the one with the cow on the balcony. I liked the Adler. The people at the front were extremely nice and helpful. The room was nice and clean. They had a decent breakfast included and free internet. The location is great. We also stayed in Stein am Rhine at the Hotel Reinfels which was also nice. Stein am Rhine is small and you can easily see it in an hour or two. We also walked around Schaffhausen which looked like a nice city. It was raining so we didn't walk up to the castle but did go to the falls. It also has a number of painted houses.

enzian

jmw44---I think it was your description of Bülach that got me thinking about this. I guess we'll save it for another time, when we are flying out of Zürich instead of arriving there.

cparris---thanks for the information on the Adler. Perhaps I should request the room with the cow on the balcony for our family of three? Do you recall how long the walk was from the Bahnhof?

waggis

I was hoping you'd see this thread, jmw, re the Bülach info.
If you're planning another visit to Schaffhausen, try for the summer months when they have concerts, open air movies and balls up on the ramparts of the "Munot". You can dance under the stars overlooking the city..... There's no food service during the week, only on special occasions, such as these. Check the program on www.munot.ch "Jahresprogramm"
For instance, on the "Open House" day (June 10, 2006) they gave l 1/2 hr. guided tours, which sound very interesting but probably only in German. There's an almost continuous list of Munot guards dating back to 1377. Every night at 9 pm the Munot guard rings the little Munot bell for 5 min. by hand. The bell dates back to 1589. On this website you can also listen to the melancholic folk song about the bell and a young man's "treacherous" love interest... By the way, the vineyards feature "Blue Burgundy, Tokay or Pinot Gris" grapes, which net 5,000 to 7,000 Liter "Munot Wine" depending on the year.

enzian - I just spoke with a relative and I'm told the walk from the railway station to the falls takes about 3/4 of an hour, but you can also go by bus. The main Schaffhausen railway station definitely has secured luggage storage. I hope I'll be able to give you some info from a "native" on a nice place to eat later this coming week. What kind of restaurant are you looking for? Something with ambiance but not too expensive? ;-)

enzian

waggis---something with ambiance and not too expensive sounds just right. Maybe with outdoor seating? I appreciate your help---thank you!