Your Venice Favorites
Apr 23rd, 2004, 09:11 AM
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Your Venice Favorites
What are your favorites in Venice?
Restaurants, places, activities, etc. We're more interested in the "experience" vs high price and high quality. IE: a hole in the wall restaurant with good food and great atmosphere. Or a little shop that you loved. Or a walk or neighborhood that epitomizes Venice. FYI - we're staying at the Pensione Accademia. Thanks.
Restaurants, places, activities, etc. We're more interested in the "experience" vs high price and high quality. IE: a hole in the wall restaurant with good food and great atmosphere. Or a little shop that you loved. Or a walk or neighborhood that epitomizes Venice. FYI - we're staying at the Pensione Accademia. Thanks.
Apr 23rd, 2004, 09:50 AM
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PB, "our" favorite local cafe for a coffee, sandwich etc. was around the corner from the hotel on Calle Toletto I think. Walk out the front gate of the hotel & take your first right turn. It's just a few doors down as I recall on the right. Sandwiches are sold by the "half" so you can taste 2 different things. Tuna & radicchio was my favorite followed closely by shrimp salad. They also had hot things. You can also get these to take away.
Further down the same sreet is a small shop called Antichita. They sell mostly jewelry (new & antique) & beads new & old. This place is listed in many guide books.
Bevilacqua is a famous Italian fabric manufacturer. They have a shop in one of the campos between the hotel & San Marco-sorry I can't remember which one. The shop is a feast for the eyes. I bought a beautiful closet sachet made from their fabric with some dried roses. It actually looks like an evening bag.
Ofcourse you must visit the Guggenheim, if only for the views. Make sure to have a look at the sculpture that sits at the front of the villa facing the canal. On leaving the museum, if you make a left & continue to a dead end, there are some lovely (if expensive) shops tucked away. The paper shop I thought was overpriced but the jewelry shop had some unusual things. (I bought some gifts made of hand made paper at Alberto Valsee-Ebru in Campo San Stefano).
Our least favorite meal was at Ai Gondolieri (not far from the hotel). It was very overpriced. San Trovaso, which many on this board like as an affordable meal is right across from the hotel. Walk out the gate, make a left over the small bridge & San Trovaso sits on the right of the bridge. We never tried it so can't give a personal opinion.
I think I'll stop (for now
Further down the same sreet is a small shop called Antichita. They sell mostly jewelry (new & antique) & beads new & old. This place is listed in many guide books.
Bevilacqua is a famous Italian fabric manufacturer. They have a shop in one of the campos between the hotel & San Marco-sorry I can't remember which one. The shop is a feast for the eyes. I bought a beautiful closet sachet made from their fabric with some dried roses. It actually looks like an evening bag.
Ofcourse you must visit the Guggenheim, if only for the views. Make sure to have a look at the sculpture that sits at the front of the villa facing the canal. On leaving the museum, if you make a left & continue to a dead end, there are some lovely (if expensive) shops tucked away. The paper shop I thought was overpriced but the jewelry shop had some unusual things. (I bought some gifts made of hand made paper at Alberto Valsee-Ebru in Campo San Stefano).
Our least favorite meal was at Ai Gondolieri (not far from the hotel). It was very overpriced. San Trovaso, which many on this board like as an affordable meal is right across from the hotel. Walk out the gate, make a left over the small bridge & San Trovaso sits on the right of the bridge. We never tried it so can't give a personal opinion.
I think I'll stop (for now
Apr 23rd, 2004, 09:53 AM
#3
I stayed nearby at La Calcina. It's a great neighborhood. There's a local grocery store near the post office along the Guidecca, very handy. I bought some great gifts in a hardware store nearby (painted enameled metal mixing bowls). In wine shop on a sidestreet they were very helpful (me speaking no Italian, they kindly assisted me and I left with a cold and opened bottle of a delicious inexpensive white in my first hours in town). I don't have any names but these were all in the neighborhood found just wandering a tiny bit off the main path. For food I loved the standup bars along the sidewalk for an espresso or small glass of wine and a pastry or ready-made sandwich.
Apr 26th, 2004, 09:28 AM
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Look up the family-run osteria called Osteria Sta Elena (nicknamed Dal Pampo) in the Fodor's restaurant list. It is a long walk or easy vaporetto ride (last stop on main part of Venice before you head for the Lido) in a residential neighborhood near the soccer stadium. This is a real local place, much lower prices, delicious.
Apr 26th, 2004, 09:40 AM
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Stop for an early evening pizza at Campo de Santa Margherita in San Polo. This is about 10-15 minute walk from Academmia. The hole in the wall take-out place is called Al Volo. Always a line-up of enthusiastic locals waiting for their slices. Get a couple of freshly-baked slices, a couple of cans of soft-drinks and sit/share a bench in the piazza.
We've never been to Naples, but these were the best pizza we've had in Italy.
We've never been to Naples, but these were the best pizza we've had in Italy.
Apr 26th, 2004, 09:44 AM
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On my third trip to Venice, last fall, I saw a few things I hadn't seen before and can recommend them:
Ca' Rezzonico (same name for the vaporetto stop). Here's the blurb from my trip report:
Ca' Rezzonico (admission 6.50&euro
was magnificent - light and airy. Built in the late 17th to early 18th century, and once the home of Robert Browning, it is now a museum devoted to 18th century art. Each room had plastic cards explaining the room and what was in it. The most notable aspect of this museum are the Tiepolo frescoes on the ceilings with lots of Baroque. His Baroque allegory oil painting of "Fortitude and Wisdom" is far removed from Giotto's frescos of virtues and vices in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua.
The Triumph of Zephyr and Flora; an allegory of spring, is complete with putti, spring winds, new green growth, and the god of love. There were also several rooms of his frescoes moved from his villa to Ca' Rezzonico. This was a Venetian highlight; one I'd repeat next trip.
Also the Santa Maria Miracoli church. Another section cut from my trip report:
As I approach yet another campo I turn around and see Miracoli just behind me. She's beautiful with ochre marble run through with varying shades of gray veins. The second tier of the front façade has five arches topped by an arched pediment containing one large round window half encircled by five smaller round windows. The admission is 2€ or you can buy a pass for 15 churches in Venice for 8€. I pay the 2€ and receive a plastic card with information on the church. For a while I'm inside all by myself. The marble is exquisite. The lower row of marble is light and dark gray striated rectangles surrounded by terra cotta. The vaulted, wooden ceiling contains paintings of the saints and prophets. On the altar is the image of Mary and Jesus that is thought to be miraculous and originally was located on a house near by.
The third thing I did (for the first time) and thought it was amazing is the church of Santa Maria Assunta on Torcello. An audio is included in the admission fee and explains the mosaic of Mary, the frescoes of the apostles and the mosaic of the Last Judgment on the back wall. Don't forget to notice the fabulous floor in the church.
Ca' Rezzonico (same name for the vaporetto stop). Here's the blurb from my trip report:
Ca' Rezzonico (admission 6.50&euro
was magnificent - light and airy. Built in the late 17th to early 18th century, and once the home of Robert Browning, it is now a museum devoted to 18th century art. Each room had plastic cards explaining the room and what was in it. The most notable aspect of this museum are the Tiepolo frescoes on the ceilings with lots of Baroque. His Baroque allegory oil painting of "Fortitude and Wisdom" is far removed from Giotto's frescos of virtues and vices in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua. The Triumph of Zephyr and Flora; an allegory of spring, is complete with putti, spring winds, new green growth, and the god of love. There were also several rooms of his frescoes moved from his villa to Ca' Rezzonico. This was a Venetian highlight; one I'd repeat next trip.
Also the Santa Maria Miracoli church. Another section cut from my trip report:
As I approach yet another campo I turn around and see Miracoli just behind me. She's beautiful with ochre marble run through with varying shades of gray veins. The second tier of the front façade has five arches topped by an arched pediment containing one large round window half encircled by five smaller round windows. The admission is 2€ or you can buy a pass for 15 churches in Venice for 8€. I pay the 2€ and receive a plastic card with information on the church. For a while I'm inside all by myself. The marble is exquisite. The lower row of marble is light and dark gray striated rectangles surrounded by terra cotta. The vaulted, wooden ceiling contains paintings of the saints and prophets. On the altar is the image of Mary and Jesus that is thought to be miraculous and originally was located on a house near by.
The third thing I did (for the first time) and thought it was amazing is the church of Santa Maria Assunta on Torcello. An audio is included in the admission fee and explains the mosaic of Mary, the frescoes of the apostles and the mosaic of the Last Judgment on the back wall. Don't forget to notice the fabulous floor in the church.
Apr 26th, 2004, 09:45 AM
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In tiny Corte dei Risi o del Bovolo, San Marco 4299, between Campo Manin and Calle dei Fuseri, is the Scala Contarini del Bovolo, an outdoor Gothic spiral staircase 6 stories high. "Bovolo" means "snail." As my guidebook put it, this is what Venetian architects were accomplishing around the time America was being "discovered". It was built in 1499. To find this little-known and beautiful structure, follow the signs from Calle Della Vida.Open daily 10-6. I believe it is closed from November through March.
I have a long file on Venice; if you'd like to see it, email me at
[email protected]
I have a long file on Venice; if you'd like to see it, email me at
[email protected]
Apr 26th, 2004, 09:58 AM
#10
I really enjoyed the Trattoria Ca d'Oro, also known as Alla Vedova. From the Ca d'Oro vaporetto stop, walk one block, cross Strada Nova, and the restaurant is at the end of a short block. A small and atmospheric place with great food.
You could combine this, as we did, with a visit to the Ca d'Oro, a lovely uncrowded museum in an old palazzo on the Grand Canal.
You could combine this, as we did, with a visit to the Ca d'Oro, a lovely uncrowded museum in an old palazzo on the Grand Canal.
Apr 26th, 2004, 12:31 PM
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I wrote these on getting back a couple of years ago:
* St Mark's square, early morning and after dinner are wonderful but I also like it in the middle of the day when it's packed with pigeon feeders. I just sit down on the ground right in the middle of it all, surrounded by people and pigeons and enjoy the madness of it all. I love the sight of the Basilica at different times, in the sun, at dusk, at night. Watching the team of cleaners systematically sweeping the square at night is a contrast to the crazy crowds of midday.
* Taking a circular vaporetti route (such as the 82) all the way around the circuit on a warm day... through the Grand Canal, views onto the Riva degli Schiavoni, through Giudecca channel, and up around the outside where it's more industrial...
* Burano ? strolling around the island, meandering right to the edges, through the smallest streets, into the quietest corners, before finishing up in the main throughfare? Colourful and peaceful (there weren?t that many visitors when we went) and clearly a true residential community.
* Walking. I love just walking around in each different area, looking at the buildings, enjoying the little squares and alleyways, looking in at shop window displays - getting lost and finding ourselves again.
* The Rialto fruit, veg and fish markets - I adore food markets everywhere (another favourite is the one in Funchal, Madeira) and this one is no exception.
* The view (and the ringing bells) from the top of the Campanile. If you have any ear pain already, best not to be up there when the bells toll!
* Peggy Guggenheim museum, most especially the outdoor sculpture gardens and terrace onto the Grand Canal.
* Walking through the gardens right down at the tip of Castello area and through the quiet residential areas there.
* Eating out! Always a pleasure anywhere in Italy.
* Listening to such musically talented buskers in the various squares of Venice. We were also lucky enough to catch a free choir concert in a church we passed - they were in Europe on a competition tour.
* Admiring the paintings of talented street artists.
* St Mark's square, early morning and after dinner are wonderful but I also like it in the middle of the day when it's packed with pigeon feeders. I just sit down on the ground right in the middle of it all, surrounded by people and pigeons and enjoy the madness of it all. I love the sight of the Basilica at different times, in the sun, at dusk, at night. Watching the team of cleaners systematically sweeping the square at night is a contrast to the crazy crowds of midday.
* Taking a circular vaporetti route (such as the 82) all the way around the circuit on a warm day... through the Grand Canal, views onto the Riva degli Schiavoni, through Giudecca channel, and up around the outside where it's more industrial...
* Burano ? strolling around the island, meandering right to the edges, through the smallest streets, into the quietest corners, before finishing up in the main throughfare? Colourful and peaceful (there weren?t that many visitors when we went) and clearly a true residential community.
* Walking. I love just walking around in each different area, looking at the buildings, enjoying the little squares and alleyways, looking in at shop window displays - getting lost and finding ourselves again.
* The Rialto fruit, veg and fish markets - I adore food markets everywhere (another favourite is the one in Funchal, Madeira) and this one is no exception.
* The view (and the ringing bells) from the top of the Campanile. If you have any ear pain already, best not to be up there when the bells toll!
* Peggy Guggenheim museum, most especially the outdoor sculpture gardens and terrace onto the Grand Canal.
* Walking through the gardens right down at the tip of Castello area and through the quiet residential areas there.
* Eating out! Always a pleasure anywhere in Italy.
* Listening to such musically talented buskers in the various squares of Venice. We were also lucky enough to catch a free choir concert in a church we passed - they were in Europe on a competition tour.
* Admiring the paintings of talented street artists.
Apr 26th, 2004, 12:35 PM
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For food we ate at La Rivista - my review is on this site - you can find it in a search - but I'm sure there are more recent reviews of it since then.
Wonderful innovative food in a city where most restaurants veer towards the traditional. Not expensive either.
Wonderful innovative food in a city where most restaurants veer towards the traditional. Not expensive either.
Apr 26th, 2004, 12:51 PM
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I highly second the recommendation of a visit to Campo Santa Margherita -- far more of a local place than Piazza San Marco -- either in the evening, or in the morning when there's a fruit & vegetable market. (A few blocks away to the south, near Campo San Barnaba, is a picturesque fruit & vegetable boat and, on your way there, to your right, is a wonderful Venetian mask shop.)
If you like pop/rock/blues music, stop into the Margaret Duchamp pub on the southeast corner of Campo Santa Margerita, where the owner, Luciano, plays a great selection of recorded music, from Dusty Springfield to Ray Charles.
To really get away from the tourists, take a vaporetto down to the Sant Elena neighborhood (near the "tail" of Venice's "fish" and, on your own, discover some local osteria. We ducked into the tiny Osteria Al Ponte to get out of a cloudburst and ended up having a great time with the locals.
Take a traghetto, very inexpensive gondolas that traverse the Grand Canal at about six different points. They're fun because it's traditional to stand up in them while crossing.
If you're a photographer, take a day trip to wildly colorful Burano.
Take an early morning walk along the Zattere, near where you're staying.
If you like pop/rock/blues music, stop into the Margaret Duchamp pub on the southeast corner of Campo Santa Margerita, where the owner, Luciano, plays a great selection of recorded music, from Dusty Springfield to Ray Charles.
To really get away from the tourists, take a vaporetto down to the Sant Elena neighborhood (near the "tail" of Venice's "fish"
and, on your own, discover some local osteria. We ducked into the tiny Osteria Al Ponte to get out of a cloudburst and ended up having a great time with the locals. Take a traghetto, very inexpensive gondolas that traverse the Grand Canal at about six different points. They're fun because it's traditional to stand up in them while crossing.
If you're a photographer, take a day trip to wildly colorful Burano.
Take an early morning walk along the Zattere, near where you're staying.
Apr 26th, 2004, 11:11 PM
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The Guggenheim Museum,a full moon rise over the Grand Canal,espresso in the afternoon at Maraget DuChamps,The Santa Margherita Neighborhood,the Ghetto and the Jewish Museum,Campari and soda(it only tasted good in Venice), a drink at the bar above all of Venice(the Danieli), Coffee and toasts at The Florian(inside..just once but it's a must do),Burano, sludging through the flood waters, a great lunch at Al la Madonna(ah the sole, the clam spaghetti), the brie,speck and arugala pizza at Ae Oche, walking everywhere without a worry or care.It's amazing. We were there for a week and only scratched the surface.
Apr 26th, 2004, 11:13 PM
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PS: rent "Summertime" with Katherine Hepburn. The hotel in that movie is, I think, the Pensione Accademia. You are staying in a great hotel in a wonderful neighborhood. Wait until you cross the bridge, round the corner and end up at Piazza San Marco!
Apr 27th, 2004, 07:02 AM
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Good morning, PB Here is my list of ristorantes in Venezia.
DA FAFFAELE, Ponte delle Ostreghe, about two blocks west of Pza S. Marco $$$. resvn suggested...
LA CARAVELLA, calle Larga 22 Marzo, 2348 in Hotel Saturnia about 1 -1/2 blocks west of the Pza S. Marco $$$$
resvn a must...
POSTE VECIE, Rialto Pescheria, excellant fish ristorante within the
Venice fishmarket about a block westof the Rialto Bridge $$$$ resvn a must.
AL GONDOLIERI, Dorsoduro- San Vio excelant typical venetian ristorante, $$$ resvn suggested.
DA TONI, Chat Qui It. S. Marco Frezzeria, 1131, self service cafeteria with pizza located about two blocks north of Pza S. Marco. $$$ no rsvn req...
There are also a few ristorantes located about a blockeast of the Accademia but can't remember their names, little, small but good.
Richard of LaGrange Park, Il..
DA FAFFAELE, Ponte delle Ostreghe, about two blocks west of Pza S. Marco $$$. resvn suggested...
LA CARAVELLA, calle Larga 22 Marzo, 2348 in Hotel Saturnia about 1 -1/2 blocks west of the Pza S. Marco $$$$
resvn a must...
POSTE VECIE, Rialto Pescheria, excellant fish ristorante within the
Venice fishmarket about a block westof the Rialto Bridge $$$$ resvn a must.
AL GONDOLIERI, Dorsoduro- San Vio excelant typical venetian ristorante, $$$ resvn suggested.
DA TONI, Chat Qui It. S. Marco Frezzeria, 1131, self service cafeteria with pizza located about two blocks north of Pza S. Marco. $$$ no rsvn req...
There are also a few ristorantes located about a blockeast of the Accademia but can't remember their names, little, small but good.
Richard of LaGrange Park, Il..
Apr 27th, 2004, 07:31 AM
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And, oh yes, Scala Contarini del Bovolo, as Elaine mentioned, is quite a quirky little sight. Doesn't need more than 10 minutes and is not far from other sights in the vicinity. Some of my favourite Venice photos are taken just nearby it.
