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Your favorite things about Paris
My apologies to traveller212, who started a similar thread on Venice. I hope you don't mind my "borrowing" the topic--those replies were wonderful.
I've been studying feverishly since learning of our trip to Paris, but have only 5 weeks to prepare, 10 days of which we'll be on another trip. Have read volumes here, bought Fodors <u>Paris</u> (a help but tooo much info to cull in this brief period), Frommers <u>Memorable Walks in Paris</u>, Streetwise Paris map to help coordinate (thank you Scarlett!) all the wannados and mustsees. I've read the negatives about pickpockets, poop, p*ssy streets and attitudes, pouring Dec rain, and hopefully have everything in proper perspective so as not to let them dampen the trip. They won't as long as I'm ready for them, and I believe I am. 3 museums are planned--probably will only have time for the Louvre (select portions), Musee d'Orsay, and Rodin, as well as definite plans for the 2 obvious monuments. Hope to take in Christmas Eve Mass at Notre Dame and tour it as well later. Now what I'd really love to hear are <i>your</i> favorite things about Paris...what you feel are the most picturesque neighborhoods and walks, your favorite buildings, and the cafes and restaurants you loved (the little guys and not so little). Between all these resources I really think we can pull this off in 5 weeks and have a fabulous Christmas trip. |
Any short list of picturesque neighborhood walks would include Montmartre and St. Germain. They are about as "classic Paris" as it gets.
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Have you seen "The 100 best things to do in Paris" on this site - we were in Paris in August and I found this thread to be very useful.
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Pickpockets: If you follow recommended advice for securing your valuables, you'll have no pickpocket concerns.
Puppy Poop: Having read and heard all about this, we "watched" where we walked for the first few days, whereupon we realized we hadn't seen any dog poop anywhere whatseover, or any of the splendid scenery (except for the pavements) all about. Attitude: Many American visitors believe they possess good manners, when, in fact, they do not. Example: A gent (not really) marched up to the front desk of our hotel, pushing aside those already there, leaned over, and declared "I NEED A TAXI TO THE AIRPORT". He was completely ignored by the three ladies on duty, despite several repetitions, whereupon he stormed off shouting, "Well, I guess the French are as rude as everyone says." Another hilarious observation: Buses (many routes utilize the same stops) do not stop unless someone happens to be getting off there, or you wave to the driver. As we approached a bus stop one day, an American gent (not really) was screaming, "What we're not GOOD ENOUGH for them to pick us up!". (Well, shorts, huge brand new white sneakers, fanny pack... anyway...) Apparently, one bus after another had gone by without stopping. When I explained, his response was "Well, I just don't see why I need to flag one down." (Well, only if you want to get on.) Then, there are all those who presume "everyone speaks English" everywhere you go. Actually, they do, but are not all that confident about it. If you do your best to start off in your very best attempt at French, they'll do their very best in English. Here's another recommendation for a search within this Forum. You know, those of us with valuable tips, recommendations, and suggestions, acquired from experience, and not found in all the tour guides, would presume that those wishing to benefit from same, would expend a bit of effort. |
Those are hilarious observations!
Oh, hold on...they're not funny, and money says they're not true. Do you really expect us to believe that every American tourist that makes an impression is wearing brand new white tennies? But please, tell more funny stories! |
OliveOyl how exciting! Have you never been ? Well, it's been some time for me but Place des Vosges was an amazing sight the first time I saw it (by accident). I really love the Picasso museum. Ironically I'm not a huge Picasso fan but this museum gave me a new perspective on him since it has a lot of his early work that we don't tend to see. It's like the Rodin in that it's in a beautiful building. The area around the museum always has great shopping.
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Wait a minute there, Dr. Travel. She's entirely correct on all counts:
-there is no dog poop anywhere in Paris whatsoever - all American tourists come off as pushy and blithering idiots/clowns - the French are perfect in every respect and virtually all of them bend over backwards to make tourists feel welcome - Actually, everyone does indeed speak English - Americans are the worst of all foreign visitors in any given country, France included note: I could be wrong on one or two of these observations |
One of my favorite memories is being in the courtyard at the Louvre at night, there was a full moon, the buildings were lit, the fountains were on, and there was no one there but us. That was during our first visit. We were there a few weeks ago and noticed that the "fountains" were dry, I don't know if that was because it is getting colder or if they were doing some type of maintenance, however; if you can take a walk over there at night, it is beautiful, with or without the water!
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The Marais area is lovely "old" Paris that includes the Place de Voges (sp)--a lovely park. Also in that area is the Carnivale (blanking--might not be exactly the name), which is the museum of Paris. Not too many tourists stop there so you have an opportunity to walk leisurely through rooms that are examples of Paris through the ages. Really beautiful.
We stayed in St. Germain and I would highly recommend a stroll through that area, including a stop at Ladurees for macaroons to eat as you stroll the Luxemburg Gardens. The view of Paris from the top of the Samaritaine Department store is free and incredible. Have a magical trip to this wonderful city! P.S. Ask for cafe creme when dining--IMO the best way of fixing coffee in the world! |
If it's your first trip to Paris, I understand wanting to do the "biggie" museums..Louvre, D'Orsay. But the real joy of Paris is the smaller , often unvisited by many, museums. The Nissan de camondo, Jacquemart-Andre, Musee de Montmarte,Maillol,Marmatton,Guimet,the Maritime in the Palais de Chaillot are all worth more than a short glance. The Carnavelet is an especial favorite of mine. We especially wanted to see the Gauguin exhibit at the Grand Palais..but the line were 4 blocks long last trip..plan ahead if you are interested!
The Louvre overwhelms me, even if I am only going for a special exhibit. It can take an hour just to find your way to what you want to see! Try to plan your day by neighborhoods or arrondisements...it saves walking and using transport. We did that this year on our 9th or 10th visit of 12 days and had the best time ever!And visit out of the way places. Passy , with Balzac museum, nice marche, great pedestrian area was most interesting. You get the feel of the city itself instead of the "tourist area". We spent an entire morning and early afternoon in Montemarte..doing a walk thru Sacre Coeur,Espace Dali, Musee de Montemarte, vineyards,Pigalle,Musee arts naive(naif), place de Tertre,and the shops and arkets..wonderful time. |
Perhaps Americans are worst of all travellers to any country because...look out now, here comes a theory:
There are more of us that travel! Why? Because we have free market economies for the most part and are capitalists...not socialists. Can't hear that over the din of the tractors and semis blocking off your streets in protest of the price controls? Sorry. |
I can't believe everyone has forgotten the hairy armpits on French women...those rock!
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Sorry, Dr.Travel.but I only wish I could travel as much as my European friends!
And it must be a long time since you've seen a French woman..they are quite well groomed ! |
In Europe, traveling from country to country is very similar to us traveling from state to state. Having said that, I'd much rather travel from one country to another in Europe than from one state to another in the US.
Kidding about the hairy Parisans. |
Hi Olive,
My favorite things at Christmas were walking down the Champse(etc. I can't spell it) just as the twinkle lights went on. So pretty. And so busy! And having lunch at Jules Verne (so much more affordable than dinner) |
DH and I returned a week ago from Paris;
not our first time. We did not do a lot of planning but I had taken some info from here, Degas's walking tours were helpful. Here are our favorite restaurants of our week; all in the 6th arrondissement except for la Truffiere Restaurants: Le Christine 1 rue Christine tel. 01 40 51 71 64 Average prices, nice atmosphere La Rotisserie d'en Face 2 rue Christine tel. 01 43 26 40 98 Casual, excellent food, varied menu- midrange www.jacques-cagna.com L'Espadon Bleu 25 rue des GrandsAugustins 6ème arr. tel 01 46 33 00 85 upscale fish and seafood;warm atmosphere La Truffière 4 rue Blainville (Place de la Contrescarpe) 01 46 33 29 82 www.latruffiere.com (closed mondays) upscale restaurant, all dishes made with truffle- historical old location Dress was relatively casual in all these restaurants, casual smart. internet café: Access Academy 60 St. André des Arts www.accessacademy.com |
mitchdesj..you have named 2 of our favorites, L'espadon Bleu...if the have it next time you are there , try the gazpacho with mussels and shrimp, our new find on our last trip, and Rotisserie d'en face, especially the vacherin. We didn't try Le christine, but just a few doors up, we did go to Chez Fernand. It was so good we went back the second time. No English menu, but you should be able to figure out what is on offer if you are the least bit familiar with French menu. I had the best cochon du lait( suckling pig) and the veal kidneys were to die for! we've added it to our list of favorites..the waiters were also delightful!
Sorry Dr Travel if I misunderstood you.. You sounded too serious to be ironic or sarcastic! My Bad! |
Olive Oyl, how could I have missed this thread?? Nothing I love more than talking about things to do and see in Paris! And it is always special when you can say, Wow, Scarlett was right, this place is amazing! :)
Of course, after this you will be saying that jody and grasshopper and mitchdesij and mclaurie,etc are right too!! My favorite things(sounds like a musical)--sorry if I repeat others ~ The Place de Vosges, we always go there, have a bite at the cafe, sit in the park and watch the children play. As I have said here before, there is an Opera singer who lives in one of the buildings and on a Sunday you can usually hear her practicing. Wandering the streets of the Marais, I always feel like I discovered something that no one else has! Great place to find small boutiques with lovely handmade sweaters , funky jewelry. I agree with mclaurie, the Picasso is a fine home full of art..even if you are not crazy about him, there is his collection of art done by other artists. We stay on the Left Bank, the Luxembourg Gardens are always a part of our stay-we like to have a light meal at the small cafe in the park (all windows, small, cozy, very charming especially on a cold day) or if the sun is warm enough, sit by the water and just people watch. The Rodin and D'Orsay are my favorites. Do have lunch in the upstairs restaurant of the D'Orsay and buy some souvenirs or gifts in the gift shop. Every trip we buy a calender so I can remember Paris all during the year. I like stopping often in cafes, (Deux Magots for example) and taking a break and enjoying the people watching while having a wine/coffee/hot chocolate. I don't think I have ever had as much or better hot chocolate than when in Paris in winter! French dogs are very cool and I can't wait for Pup to get to go meet them! They are well behaved, I have been one of the lucky ones to have missed the great amounts of poop spoken of here and amazingly, they understand French!! I know you are looking for waterproof boots, but you still must shop at Galleries Lafayette and buy some shoes there, what an excellent shoe dept they have! My favorite small neighborhood bistro is the Petit St Benoit. They will welcome you, seat you next to someone who will end up speaking perfect English or try to practice their limited English on you..always with good cheer. The food is basic delicious homecooking, the wine is always good. Buy something for the house (kitchen) from one of the lovely Provencal shops, I have a small collection of green and yellow bowls.(rue Jacob is my fav) I could go on and on, but I will spare everyone. I must say this though, part of the fun of traveling for me and obviously for a lot of people is the talking about it. You get excited and learn when you talk about it before and you keep the glow of pleasure from it when you talk about it when you return. So don't let anyone be a spoilsport and tell you to expend some effort and do your research..that is exactly what this is and it is fresh and new! That is why it is called Travel TALK, so we can all keep Talking about it. ((F)) |
Don't miss the stained glass windows at Sainte Chapelle. They cover most of the walls, are a wonderful color, and are especially beautiful with the sun shining through them. This church is located in the middle of the complex which also houses the Paris courthouse. I overheard a tour guide telling people that the windows in a certain area are reproductions because at some point (between the time of the revolution and today) the court house was running out of storage space and there were files stored up against the walls and windows of Ste. Chapelle, damaging some of the lower windows. I have spent enough time in courthouses to have no trouble believing this story.
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Some other thoughts, because, like Scarlett, I'm so excited for you...as I've said before here, I love Ile St Louis. It's a quiet oasis with lovely shops & restaurants (& gorgeous homes).
I haven't been, but I was quite taken by the views & the look of the rest. at the top of the Pompidou Center shown in the movie Le Divorce. Speaking of movies, you might want to try to rent Camille Claudel before you go. She was Rodin's lover (& a great artist in her own right). I believe the house they live in in the movie is actually the Rodin museum (which was his house). A bientot. |
I love wandering round Paris on foot, because no matter where you're going, you can always find a fascinating route to take.
Favourite circuits of mine: - down the rue de Montorgueil, past the Eglise st Eustache, behind Les Halles and onto rue Rambuteau, and then on into the Marais for wandering, shopping (especially Muji and the funky design stores), and takeaway falafel. - up rue Mouffetard, onto place Monge, then to the Moorish tea shop at the Mosque, Jardin des plantes and then a stroll along the banks of the Seine through the sculpture garden and past the street artists, ending up opposite Notre Dame - Montmartre, taking a wide loop from place des Abbesses up to the Sacré Coeur, through the secret garden behind, past the Montmartre vineyard and back to rue des Abbesses for a glass of wine. Other favourite things about Paris? - Bastille market on a Sunday morning. - A trip to the Opera Bastille (yes, I prefer it to the Opera Garnier) - Jazz at the Caveau des Oubliettes on rue Galande in the 5th - Sunday lunch at Bofinger - Omelette-frites at one of the cafés on rue des Abbesses :) |
mclaurie! That was such a good movie and in the museum(house) there is a wonderful sculpture by Camille Claudel that is called The Wave and it has these tiny perfect women cast in bronze and there is this huge wave made of a stone that looks like water!! rising up above them, it is one of my favorite sculptures!
And The Kiss is corny on a postcard but very moving when you are standing right there in front of it, as well as the Thinker, sitting there in the garden, surrounded by roses..although in winter he will be a little cold :) And Yes! the Pompidou has a great restaurant called Georges and the views are amazing, but you can get the same views just being on that floor of the museum, without spending quite a bit of money for lunch/dinner. I wish I were going to France instead of stuck home packing~ |
Aaah, this is wonderful!! <i>These</i> responses are what make the board what it is and I thank you all for taking the time to reflect on your own trips and what has made them special. I'm cutting and pasting the thread to Word as it grows...well, sometimes just cutting :), and it'll come with us to Paris where we <i>will</i> do your walks and see your sights for certain--(and maybe my husband won't grumble so much about my computer time in the future even--nah asking too much).
Contrary to an opinion expressed earlier in this thread, I've spent probably 15-20 hours here since booking this trip last week, (<i>that</i> was what I meant when I said "I've read volumes here" in the original post) pouring over threads, and it was here, with previously posted info from you all, that I learned the metro system (as well as copied off a 26 page reference guide from a link here), decided on mode of transport to and from the airport as well as around the city, decided which museum pass and which metro pass would be most beneficial, alerted myself to some of the problems and took precautions where I could (money belt ordered this weekend, and narrowing in on the waterproof shoes). I had an idea of the basic monuments/museums we had to see on this trip, and want to add to that what you all have found to be fantastic. Some replies confirm areas I'd already leaned toward (Ste Chapelle, Picasso--the progression of his work is fascinating I recall from an Art History class, as is Dali's, but I can do him to my heart's content here),and added more. Confusion seems to reign about yeah or nay for Montmartre and I'm afraid I'm still confused but feel I must see it anyway and decide for myself. What a resource this is! Lily I've been unable to find the thread 100 Best things to do in Paris. Tried variations on that with no luck. Yes we are very very excited about going. It's something we've meant to do for ages, but out of college you are poor and starting a job, then next thing you know a family is on the way, then the kids are growing up and limited vacation time is spent visiting grandparents in opposite extremes of the US from where we lived, then the kids are in college and you are poor again, then there were weddings to be paid for, and low and behold...next thing you know, you are 60 and just now planning your first trip to Paris! Even this was so spur of the moment mclaurie...sitting around contemplating our first Christmas in 32 years with no "children" at home, we just decided this was the time, and far better to celebrate Christmas in Paris than the two of us sitting in front of our Christmas tree in unChristmasy Floriduh...it didn't sound like much fun!! We'll be with both our kids and their spouses for 10 days in the Grand Canyon and Sedona for Thanksgiving, so the other in-laws get them for Christmas. I <i>hate</i> sharing!! ;) We are thrilled to be going and know that no matter what the weather, it'll be magical spending Christmas there. I am <i>excited</i>! So thanks for the input so far and if there are others who would like to share your trip highlights, I am all ears. Thank you everyone for being so helpful! |
OO I got teary eyed reading your last post. :'(
Did a search & found 2 threads (out of tons)you might like. I think the 2nd one is what Lily was talking about. Must see vs skippable http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34375535 100 great things to do in paris http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...mp;tid=1277898 Don't forget about all the fab posts Degas has been making :) |
Well, I love it when she slinks around that Vegas hotel room wearing nothing but a......oh, I'm sorry. I thought you meant Paris Hilton.
My actual favorite places in Paris are: Rodin Museum Ste-Chapelle Walking in different neighborhoods and just experiencing the joy of being in Paris. It could be the Rue Cler in the early morning or the Marais later in the day. Paris never seems big to me, because each neighborhood is different than another. Walking into a boulangerie on one of those walks and picking up a fresh ham and cheese sandwich. I love a little restaurant in the 7th - Clos-des Gourmets - great food with nice owners at a reasonable price. I have been to Paris often, and it never disappoints me. There is always something new to discover. Have a wonderful time. ((H)) |
Oh Maitai..........shame on you!
Also, something charming at Christmas is the ice rink at Hotel deVille. Very festive. |
Sitting on a bench near the fountain after visiting St.Sulpice church, eating a lemon tart from Gerard Mulot just around the corner. Next time we will try to include the free organ concert on Sundays, I think.
Lunch at Laduree near Place Madeleine...elegant lady nearby delicately wielding knife and fork to cut sandwich. |
...when one has survived the seemingly endless flight; found your luggage; found a suitable mode of transport into the City; found your hotel...they let you leave off your bags until you can check in - and outside you go! And you find a cafe. And you sit and order...and then - et voila... you're actually, safe and sound and the realty settles in... I'M IN PARIS! Its a wee-tiny moment - but its real to me!
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Mclaurie, you said you love L'ile St-Louis and also mentioned Camille Claudel. That reminds me : I stayed the night of 1st AUG this year at a hotel on the "main street" of St-Louis. Sunday morning, I walked on the deserted streets of the ile. That was a sunny and cool morning. I found on the wall of a (private apartment) building a plate whicg said, Camille Claudel lived here, had her atlier here or both. I don't rememeber the exact words. I stood there for a minute or so and suddenly the door opened and a dark skinned man, possibly the concierge of the building came out. He saw me. He must have thought I was a tourist with a camera on my hand. I looked at him a bit hoping he would tell me to come inside take a look if I was interested. No such luck. But I did catch a glimpse, beyond the door, of a rather big sculpture in the middle of the small courtyard. I wonder if it was one of her works. The building was facing the "rive droite" side.
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er .. um... reality not realty...
hmmm...tho, buying some realty in Paris isn't too bad a daydream !!! <GRIN> that was a freudian slip of some sort |
Hands down:
Crepes and Coissants!!! OH my GOSH.. I want some right now! (oh Musee D'Orsay is pretty decent also...;). |
What I love about Paris is that you see so many people kissing, hugging, embracing, oblivious to the world around them, not caring about what others may think or say. And of course, the french pastries... Also I'm amazed at some of the women, dressed and groomed to perfection. I turn and look as they walk away. Paris is a feast for the senses.
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Picking up a banana, strawberry and whipped cream crepe at the little crepe stand at then Rue du Faubourg Montmartre and Boulevard Haussman, then eating it slowly as a I walk up the street past the Opera Garnier then up toward Galleries Lafayette.
Sublime. |
Favorite things, let's see . . .
Twinkling lights on the Tour Eiffel. Shoe shopping on the Rue de Rennes and Rue du Dragon. Walking down the Rue St. Antoine (toward the Bastille) at twilight. The energy on that street at that time is amazing. People picking up roasting chickens and other things for dinner; people meeting after work for a drink, then kisses all around as they part; Maman calling out to her son who has run too far ahead; delightful! Strolling from the Place de Breteuil towards Invalides after dark when the Dome is lit. Daybreak on the Ile St. Louis, shopping for croissants as the man from the fish store gets his delivery and the woman from the flower shop washes down the sidewalk. The extreme excitement that still overcomes me everytime I arrive in Paris. After 15+ visits it hasn't diminished a bit. Well, now I'm totally homesick. Can you be homesick for a place that isn't home? Or maybe that's the point, to my heart, it is home. 7 weeks and counting! |
Olive, posts like yours are heart warming;
I'm sure you'll love Paris and I wish you the best of trips, do check back with us when you return. L'Espadon Bleu had the best sole I ever had; ;they called it Sole de Normandie but here in Montreal we call it Dover Sole.... I never made it to chez Fernand but passed by there all the time, we stayed at Relais Christine, we'll be back for sure. The Italian place at that corner was decent. |
Walk to the top of Notre Dame, the crowd will walk straight from one tower to the other. But stop and go into the Bellfry closest to the left bank (it is the only one you can access). As you walk along the slightly narrower walkway that leads to the closed door you'll see gargolyes up close that have been worn smooth by the wind that whistles between the two towers. As you enter the bellfry there is (I think her name is) Lucille- one of the grand bells of Notre Dame.
Oh yes and there is the first time you see a REAL French Bakery, the pastries all look like wax imitiations! HEADING BACK IN APRIL WHEEEEE!! |
Indeed everyone does speak English in Paris "just a leetle bit"
Favorite things - just about anything anywhere - I LOVE PARIS travel there at least 5x a year I have a friend there I visit often and honestly my favorite thing is sitting and people watching or just WALKING WALKING AND MORE WALKING then the clubs check out Latina Cafe everything from Salsa, to R&B, reggae, pop - its a cool crowd HAVE FUN!!!! |
OliveOyl, you mentioned "Dali" above, so maybe you'd be interested in the Dali exhibit that is just off Place du Tertre in Montmartre.
Espace Montmartre Salvador Dali http://www.dali-espacemontmartre.com/hten/Page1.html 11, rue Poulbot, Espace Montmartre , 75018 Paris Metro: Abbesses Open Daily 10am - 6:30pm 7 € |
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